[Kel918]

Navardi I had an idea about what if I added an external wastegate to the turbine housing, that would be controlled to open at like 22 psi if I ony wanted to run 20 psi on the internally wastegated turbos ? or would 22 psi be ok without having to go to such lengths because a 0.41 A/R is ridiculously small. I thought it would have at least been .63

[navardi]

Originally Posted by Kel918

Navardi I had an idea about what if I added an external wastegate to the turbine housing, that would be controlled to open at like 22 psi if I only wanted to run 20 psi on the internally wastegated turbos ? or would 22 psi be ok without having to go to such lengths because a 0.41 A/R is ridiculously small. I thought it would have at least been .63

Doing so creates a very inefficient setup on an already internally WG turbo (Adding a External WG to the Internal WG housing). This doesn't actually solve the A/R issue of the small Housing.

Really you need a bigger turbo, Whether that's a big Internally WG turbo like the Borg Warner EFR series, or an Externally WG Turbo with Custom Manifold (A turbo Example would be the Garret GTX 3071R). At this stage BM3 Hasn't released their EWG Delete for External WG Setups and No one has tried the Turbo Smart Electronic External WG controller on DME's that come factory with OE EWG setups.

TLDR, everyone needs to move away from the stock Frame turbos, to make more reliable power on these motors.

SPA, at this stage seem to be interested in working on a Custom Manifold to support Larger Internally WG setups. Before looking into External WG setups.

[blumagic]

Hi Navardi, I heard that you might know for sure which way the oil flows through the heat exchanger.

I have parts for an oil cooler but I want to add a thermostat when I install. I can't seem to find anything definitive

[navardi]

Originally Posted by blumagic

Hi Navardi, I heard that you might know for sure which way the oil flows through the heat exchanger.

I have parts for an oil cooler but I want to add a thermostat when I install. I can't seem to find anything definitive

Hey mate, I found out the hard way, I left the hoses off my oil housing adaptor plate, and with the ignition system disabled cranked the motor until oil started pouring out of the adaptor plate port.

Now for memory, since its been a long time since I did it. But the far right port (if looking at the oil filter housing head on) is the outlet port. I have checked some photos and they seem to suggest the same. (not at my car currently to check).

[Naiters]

Hi Guys,

yesterday I was diagnosed for my 320i f30 with the AT8 heat exchanger leaking coolant, because a plastic part of it cracked. Only the OEM part is available and the whole unit has to be replaced, which sucks really.

I am curious if the tune could be the reason for it? Could the coolant overheat due to the water pump being inefficient? My mechanic said that it is a very rare issue and implied that it cracked possibly due to temperature differential and right now in Poland it is around 0 degrees Celcius outside. I just would want to avoid such issues in the future.

Shall I upgrade the water pump to that of 328i, Navardi? Or was it just a bad luck random event? I am FBO with catless downpipe and upgraded FMIC. I think we chatted about my tune dyno curve some time ago.

Thanks for all the help.

Best regards
Wojtek

[navardi]

Originally Posted by Naiters

Hi Guys,

yesterday I was diagnosed for my 320i f30 with the AT8 heat exchanger leaking coolant, because a plastic part of it cracked. Only the OEM part is available and the whole unit has to be replaced, which sucks really.

I am curious if the tune could be the reason for it? Could the coolant overheat due to the water pump being inefficient? My mechanic said that it is a very rare issue and implied that it cracked possibly due to temperature differential and right now in Poland it is around 0 degrees Celcius outside. I just would want to avoid such issues in the future.

Shall I upgrade the water pump to that of 328i, Navardi? Or was it just a bad luck random event? I am FBO with catless downpipe and upgraded FMIC. I think we chatted about my tune dyno curve some time ago.

Thanks for all the help.

Best regards
Wojtek

Have you got a photo of the part that cracked?
Old Part number of the Coolant Thermostat was known to be faulty. since 2015 BMW replaced it with a new part number. Water Pump hasn't been a known issue, and I doubt it was the cause of the issue in this instance. Sounds like heat cycles on the plastic has caused fatigue or that you might just have had a defective piece from factory.

You could just move to an external AT Cooler and then move to an aluminium Upgraded Radiator, to eliminate the plastic.

[Naiters]

Originally Posted by navardi

Have you got a photo of the part that cracked?
Old Part number of the Coolant Thermostat was known to be faulty. since 2015 BMW replaced it with a new part number. Water Pump hasn't been a known issue, and I doubt it was the cause of the issue in this instance. Sounds like heat cycles on the plastic has caused fatigue or that you might just have had a defective piece from factory.

You could just move to an external AT Cooler and then move to an aluminium Upgraded Radiator, to eliminate the plastic.

Thank you Navardi for a qucik reply. I don't have a picture right now but I could ask my mechanic if needed since the car is at their service centre right now.

Do you think that a new OEM unit would be a better bet now? For the AT cooler, do you have any suggestions? It would be installed in place of the current heat exchanger?

I am prrety sure this black plastic part cracked:

View post on imgur.com

Best regards
Wojtek

[navardi]

Originally Posted by Naiters

Thank you Navardi for a qucik reply. I don't have a picture right now but I could ask my mechanic if needed since the car is at their service centre right now.

Do you think that a new OEM unit would be a better bet now? For the AT cooler, do you have any suggestions? It would be installed in place of the current heat exchanger?

I am prrety sure this black plastic part cracked:

View post on imgur.com

Best regards
Wojtek

You could go with a custom external cooler setup? but as I said very uncommon failure on these cars, so a stock replacement should be fine

[blumagic]

Originally Posted by navardi

Hey mate, I found out the hard way, I left the hoses off my oil housing adaptor plate, and with the ignition system disabled cranked the motor until oil started pouring out of the adaptor plate port.

Now for memory, since its been a long time since I did it. But the far right port (if looking at the oil filter housing head on) is the outlet port. I have checked some photos and they seem to suggest the same. (not at my car currently to check).

Thanks, just to be sure, by output you mean “to the cooler”?

Just making sure it wouldn’t be the cooler output.

[navardi]

Originally Posted by blumagic

Thanks, just to be sure, by output you mean “to the cooler”?

Just making sure it wouldn’t be the cooler output.

Sorry for the delayed response, By output yes I mean to the cooler

[Tuiman]

Originally Posted by navardi

provided they're the correct N55 ones, as the ones i bought ended up being the N54 ones.

If they're the correct N55 ones (as in theyre closer to 170mm total length) then Torque to 95 LB-FTs in 3 equal steps, and run the motor once let it heat up, then remove valve cover and re-check TQ on the studs. Due to clearance issues i couldn't install the studs with washers.

for corner holes must be timeserted and the cylinder head holes need to be enlarged abit to fit the bigger studs. you will also need to make new alignment dowels in the block to correctly align the head to the block.

I ordered N55 studs from VAC and received the N54 ones... hopefully you don't have that, otherwise all 10 holes must be timeserted. to fit the studs.

95LB-FT only? Without angle?

[navardi]

Originally Posted by Tuiman

95LB-FT only? Without angle?

the ARP studs aren't Torque to yield like factory so no Jointing TQ and Angle of rotation required. IMO ARP studs are superior to the one time use Factory studs

[navardi]

This Build guide has been moved to the following link:
https://n2xandb4xwiki.notion.site/N2...654fe3ce75c4c3

[Dinolan@StaticF30]

Originally Posted by navardi

I have compiled all the "updates" into this first post for ease of following.

Hey everyone, figured i might be the first person to log this type of build, i know a few members have stated they have bought the parts for a forged build, and i know some companies have built this engine, but i want to share my experience building this engine myself with some parts of the build carried out by shops.

Engine Comp has changed to 10.3:1 due to some headgasket install issues with the VAC Cut RING HG, i had one ring move on me whilst the head was going down (engine on a stand) and the ring distorted the top of the deck, so had to have the engine re - decked and the cylinder head re-decked. this gasket is about 1.21mm thick that is the thickest gasket you can get for this car (OEM is 0.7mm or 1.0mm).

So below are the specs for my build:
• CP Forged pistons 84.5mm comp 10.1 and Chromoly Pins, also with CP H Beam forged rods with Carr bolts -- cylinders must be notched for these rods or your crank won't rotate.
• Steel sleeved cylinder liners - sleeves must be used rebuilding this engine especially when oversizing the bore.
• Rotating Assembly Balanced
• Hybrid Closed Deck - ($386 AUD)
• Crankshaft micropolished and all bearing and part clearances checked by engine builder.
• ACL TRIMETAL ROD BEARINGS
• N55 ARP head studs set -- please note i used the 10 11mm studs, now since the block originally uses 6 11mm and 4 10mm the block will need to be timeserted (block also supports bigserts as i did have to use one because i got carried away on the drill!) Now make sure you get the N55 arp studs because VAC Motorsports stuffed up my order and sent me N54 studs which are about 40mm to short, hence why i timeserted all the holes, to suit a custom depth in the block, given my location (Australia) and other constraints i didnt have time to return them and get the correct ones. If you do timesert or bigsert you will need the 30mm inserts. -- Even if you do get the right studs you will still need to drill and time cert the 4x corner head stud holes to accommodate the 11mm studs.
• The cylinder head 4 corner headbolt holes will need to be drilled out to accommodate the larger stud's i used a 12mm drill bit, larger alignment dowels will be required as the block holes will be too big for the facrory ones.
• VAC MOTORSPORTS Cooper cut-ring Head Gasket
• For the bedplate i used 10x ARP2000 10MM STUDS (ARP M50 Head Stud should direct fit you will have some leftovers)
• The turbo had the exhaust housing machined out by an engineering shop to support the TD04HLR 9 blade Turbine Inducer OD: 52 mm
Exducer OD: 45.6 mm
• Turbo Compressor housing machined out to fit the 49.10mm inducer 65mmm exducer billet compressor wheel
• Turbo Core balanced, by my local Turbo specialist shop, but assembled and rebuilt by myself with the upgraded internal kit (supports 31psi)
• new OEM spark Plugs and injectors
• FTP Charge Pies and Inlet Pipe
• Mishimoto Performance Intercooler - https://bit.ly/2P276EF
• custom intake pod filter mounted behind kidney grille (like the F80 intakes)
• Aeroflow 25 Row oil cooler with Aeroflow 10AN fittings and braided lines
• PSP N55 oil cooler adaptor plate for the oil filter housing & Aeroflow Oil Thermostat
• Ebay Decat
• custom stainless exhaust with resonator delete
• DV+ GFB diverter valve
• Mambatek TD04LR rebuilt kit with uprated thrust bearing for 31psi
• BM3 Tune
• JB4 for future Meth Injection and additional E85 control
• Walbro 460 LPFP
• Main Bearings were all changed to "BLUE" type bearings as the block had to be line honed, when the oil pump failed just after the first rebuild.
• Block was honed and machined and semi closed deck by my local machine shop, they also checked all clearances and gapped my piston rings, rod bolts also done by the shop, the rest of assembly was done by myself.
• FUEL-IT 950cc CPI injector kit (turns out 950cc was too much, swapped for a 550cc injector) - TERRY from BMS has updated the firmware for the JB4 to support CPI and will also add Port Injection support for the BMS PI control module.
• Custom designed and 3D printed Port injection Kit with a modified N55 Phenolic Spacer - Made from Nylon with Reinforced Carbon Fibre printed at 100% infill (completely solid) - This replaces the 550cc CPI kit, the PI Kit uses the JB4 BMS PI controller and 4x 550cc Bosch Injectors - Only required for 100% E85 for boost levels of 20psi or more on this turbo - currently targeting 26psi but looking at going higher.
• Precision Racework Ignition Coils for the N20

Website NEWTIS has the complete engine manual with all torque specs and procedures-- great for a rebuild.

Estimated rebuilt cost to do it once and do it right is $12500 AUD (mine was more as i had to rebuild it twice as i didn't replace the damaged oil pump on the first rebuild engine lasted 1 WOT pull... then glorious rod knock.)

Custom Oil Pan Baffle fabbed up using the TOMEI universal oil pan baffle kit and some oil resistant high temp RTV.


Please note:
Bedplate bolts must be replaced as they are torque to yeild, same as factory head studs.
Torque converter bolts for AT are also torque to yield and require replacement





Links for build:
Head Gasket (new as of this week! High performance Gasket)
https://store.vacmotorsports.com/mob...n20-p4018.aspx
Pistons and rods
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F272874187533
ACL rod Bearings (make sure you get an engine builder to check clearances these engines have tight tolerances)
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F202494290853
ARP Headstuds. (n55 ones should not require timesert thread inserts, N54 studs will, please note going ARP headstuds needs to be a full 10 stud conversion to the 11mm stud the 4 corner stud threads will need to be timeserted as they're originally 10MM studs not 11mm, the 4 stud holes in the cylinder head will need to be drilled out to suit) (if you need to timesert the block you'll need the 30mm time sert inserts)
https://store.vacmotorsports.com/mob...-bmw-p114.aspx
ARP Mainstuds (requires 24.5mm timesert in block for this stud if you damage factory thread, follow my instructions for install)
https://store.vacmotorsports.com/mob...-bmw-p114.aspx --- Select M50 Standard Size Head Stud
PSP Oil Cooler Bracket
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F233018453965
As for oil cooler hoses and fittings source a universal kit such as mishimoto this is primarily whatever is local and works for yo

Mishimoto baffled catch can is a must!

Oil recommend is Penrite 10 tenths 5w40 with Zinc and PAO ESTER (or similar branded oil with same specs)


• Darton make sleeves but this is something your engine builder/machine shop should source
• Closed Deck is something your engine builder/machine shop can source
Turbo, honestly unless you're up for it, just buy the PS2 turbo since its an easy bolt in, but if you're up for the task to match my turbo goodluck.
Flywheel, Torque converter bolts, Torsion bolt speak to the dealership or ecs tuning for it, bmwfans.info have the part numbers

#PLEASE NOTE: IF YOU ARE NOT COMFORTABLE TIMESERTING THE BLOCK GET YOUR MACHINE SHOP TO DO IT FOR YOU, AND FOLLOW MY INSTRUCTIONS REGARDING THE INSTALL FOR THE MAINSTUDS & HEADSTUDS

Further post UPDATE on Page 2.....


Further post UPDATE on Page 3.....


This Build guide has been moved to the following WIKI link:
https://www.notion.so/N2x-Forged-Int...654fe3ce75c4c3

Hi Narvadi

Great build bud
I am currently doing a build on my f30 328i and I am going with the forged cp pistons 84.5mm
I see you say the block needs to have a steel liner so do the pistons come with rings that will work with the sleeve liner (chrome rings)or did you have to get chrome rings separately

Thanks

[navardi]

Originally Posted by Dinolan@StaticF30

Hi Narvadi

Great build bud
I am currently doing a build on my f30 328i and I am going with the forged cp pistons 84.5mm
I see you say the block needs to have a steel liner so do the pistons come with rings that will work with the sleeve liner (chrome rings)or did you have to get chrome rings separately

Thanks

Hey, detailed info on building the N20 can now be found here: https://n2xandb4xwiki.notion.site/N2x-Forged-Internals-Guide-9ebf71bb9bb84d18a3654fe3ce75c4c3

With regards to your question, you need to have the rings run against a wall thats iron/steel, using the rings on the aluminium will not only cause premature wear and poor lubrication but the bare aluminium can't stand up to the combustion process.

Either have your shop source the sleeves or have the factory plasma arc coating re-applied. We are working on some off the shelf offerings for Sleeves for the N20 however they're about 4 - 5 weeks out for getting our first batch.

Any further questions please email me at navardituned@gmail.com

[navardi]

We get alot of messages regarding this build,
I have re-updated the original post to be more current to 2022.

However lots of changes have been made

Please refer to the original post for updates and the link to the notion page for the build guide.

don't hesitate to contact us on socials for help with your N20/B48

[navardi]

Originally Posted by navardi

We get alot of messages regarding this build,
I have re-updated the original post to be more current to 2022.

However lots of changes have been made

Please refer to the original post for updates and the link to the notion page for the build guide.

don't hesitate to contact us on socials for help with your N20/B48

Update - Wiki has moved from Notion to our own wiki website!
https://bmwenginewiki.com

New video is up regarding these built motors
https://youtu.be/AMpNWHV72rc


Some glamor shots

[navardi]

Originally Posted by navardi

Update - Wiki has moved from Notion to our own wiki website!
https://bmwenginewiki.com

New video is up regarding these built motors
https://youtu.be/AMpNWHV72rc


Some glamor shots
Attachment 3034179

Attachment 3034180

Attachment 3034181

Attachment 3034182

Attachment 3034183

Attachment 3034184

Attachment 3034185

New Video Uploaded regarding the sleeve installation process

https://youtu.be/A8Watk3lDjE