[SCS55]

Originally Posted by Sterek

Plus i would trust zipties a lot more than the cheesey clips. they also make metal zipties if you want to make sure it will never break again

Even better.

[N55Msport]

I ended up using the ziptie method as only one side of my clip was broken.
Here is where the clip actually sits. Heatshield removal and a slight dropping of the tank is all thats needed. I'll install the clip later during a full brake job. Until then, no more rattle.

[Sterek]

Originally Posted by N55Msport

I ended up using the ziptie method as only one side of my clip was broken.
Here is where the clip actually sits. Heatshield removal and a slight dropping of the tank is all thats needed. I'll install the clip later during a full brake job. Until then, no more rattle.

at ah boy. yeah my 340i doesnt do it anymore, it was so obnoxious.

[Aldor27]

Originally Posted by Sterek

so there is a plastic retaining clip that holds the rear parking brake lines up and away from the driveshaft. The plastic clips break off the retainer. So i decided to take 2 zipties on each side and tighten up the line closer to the top of the heat shield. I was only able to get one good picture.

https://ibb.co/BNRVxTS

going to try this on monday

[Aldor27]

Sterek

Did you just get the rear of the car on ramps and have access to the lines to ziptie them?

[SCS55]

Originally Posted by Aldor27

Sterek

Did you just get the rear of the car on ramps and have access to the lines to ziptie them?

Yes. Back it up on ramps and you'll have plenty of room.

[F30lolz]

Attempted the zip tie method just now and it was successful. I should have tackled this months ago but glad I can finally hear the roar of the n20 once again

[WhiteLotus]

So I may having this static sounding grinding issue, too, and wanted a quick work around until I have time to replace the shitty clips.

The line that is rubbing for me is actually the line that goes to the passenger rear wheel. Another user posted a zip tie for the line running to driver rear wheel.

Ignore the illusion that it seems like the excess zip tie is touching the exhaust. It's not. It's pointing away after I adjusted it. My question is do you think the heat from the exhaust will be enough to melt the part of the zip tie looped around the line?

And did anyone replace the clips yet? Do you have to remove the exahust too? Not sure how to remove heat shield without removing exhaust, but this was my first time down there and I was in a bit of a rush. I can see the clips above the exhaust (pic 3 show the other one that's not rubbing and to the right just above the drive shaft is the problematic side.)

Edit, I'll look up removing the heat shield and I know this zip tie will pop off with any bump, but it's the best I can do for now. It's hanging on by literally a thread (of a bolt) lol

[WhiteLotus]

Originally Posted by N55Msport

I ended up using the ziptie method as only one side of my clip was broken.
Here is where the clip actually sits. Heatshield removal and a slight dropping of the tank is all thats needed. I'll install the clip later during a full brake job. Until then, no more rattle.

Passenger side or driver side line? If passenger, what did you tie it to?

[SCS55]

Originally Posted by WhiteLotus

Passenger side or driver side line? If passenger, what did you tie it to?

My driver side was still snug in it's clip, so I used two zip ties on the passenger side cable to the drivers side. Basically a horizontal securing. It pulled them together just enough to keep the cable from dropping down during an acceleration touching the driveshaft.
I realize that puts an extra load on that clip, but it didn't require much tightening of each zip tie at all to suspend the passenger side cable away from the driveshaft. I simply looped them around the drivers cable and from what I recall, barely tightened them and snipped the excess.
It's been hundreds of miles since I tied them together and my wife hasn't said a word about any noise since.

I'm still planning on replacing the clip since I bought it, just combing a brake job at that time.
Lastly, I asked a tech about the job on just how difficult it is, and he said all that's really needed is to drop the fuel tank about 3" to get to the bolt holding the cable clip. He didn't say anything about the exhaust being removed.
Still not sure why they wanted $700.00 to fix it?

[WhiteLotus]

Originally Posted by SCS55

My driver side was still snug in it's clip, so I used two zip ties on the passenger side cable to the drivers side. Basically a horizontal securing. It pulled them together just enough to keep the cable from dropping down during an acceleration touching the driveshaft.
I realize that puts an extra load on that clip, but it didn't require much tightening of each zip tie at all to suspend the passenger side cable away from the driveshaft. I simply looped them around the drivers cable and from what I recall, barely tightened them and snipped the excess.
It's been hundreds of miles since I tied them together and my wife hasn't said a word about any noise since.

I'm still planning on replacing the clip since I bought it, just combing a brake job at that time.
Lastly, I asked a tech about the job on just how difficult it is, and he said all that's really needed is to drop the fuel tank about 3" to get to the bolt holding the cable clip. He didn't say anything about the exhaust being removed.
Still not sure why they wanted $700.00 to fix it?

Would you happen to know the part number(s)? Can't believe both of mine are busted. Your solution would have been great.
And today my MAF clip flew into the abyss of the engine bay while removing airbox for new filter and a cleaning. Something always happens when I DIY on automobiles. It could always be worse, though.

[SCS55]

Originally Posted by WhiteLotus

Would you happen to know the part number(s)? Can't believe both of mine are busted. Your solution would have been great.
And today my MAF clip flew into the abyss of the engine bay while removing airbox for new filter and a cleaning. Something always happens when I DIY on automobiles. It could always be worse, though.

99.9 % sure this is it.

Park Brake Cable Clip - BMW (34-40-6-854-898)

Happens to me all the time.

[WhiteLotus]

Originally Posted by SCS55

99.9 % sure this is it.

Park Brake Cable Clip - BMW (34-40-6-854-898)

Happens to me all the time.

I appreciate it. If you weren't so far from Ft Lauderdale, I would offer you a hand!

[cgraner]

They need to replace that clip with a saddle block style clamp design. Here is a sketch I made up to show the concept:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/U4CQUGCkMNpaR2kF6

My local dealer told me they would replace it free under the Platinum Maintenance program the car was covered under that was purchased when the car was new. I have an appointment to let them fix it but in the meantime I have zip tied it up out of the way so it doesn't rub. It might be about as good as using the poorly designed clip. I will probably go back in and put in zip tie around the new clip and lines in case it breaks again or to help prevent it from breaking again.

Here is a link showing before and after pictures and a video of how I did it after it was done. On mine only the right side of the clip was broken and I took the metal clip that is further back by the suspension off and pulled some of the slack out of the line and reattached it about an inch or so further up the line and then zip tied it around the back side of the heat shield bolt.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ja2cGzNfFuSPT77g9

[cgraner]

Originally Posted by F30lolz

Attempted the zip tie method just now and it was successful. I should have tackled this months ago but glad I can finally hear the roar of the n20 once again

do you have pictures of how you zip tied it off?

[F30lolz]

Originally Posted by cgraner

do you have pictures of how you zip tied it off?

I didn’t take pictures, however, this was from a link in this thread. I used two zip ties for each of the two cables for added security.

[Sterek]

Originally Posted by Aldor27

Sterek

Did you just get the rear of the car on ramps and have access to the lines to ziptie them?

I had access to a lift so I was able to stand under car and do it. Haven't been active lately and im shocked on how many of us have this problem. With someone asking me a question if they have held up, they have I can't complain. Zipties for the win. If you really dont trust plastic zip ties they do make metal ones but zip ties are cheap and easy to use.

[Sterek]

Originally Posted by WhiteLotus

So I may having this static sounding grinding issue, too, and wanted a quick work around until I have time to replace the shitty clips.

The line that is rubbing for me is actually the line that goes to the passenger rear wheel. Another user posted a zip tie for the line running to driver rear wheel.

Ignore the illusion that it seems like the excess zip tie is touching the exhaust. It's not. It's pointing away after I adjusted it. My question is do you think the heat from the exhaust will be enough to melt the part of the zip tie looped around the line?

And did anyone replace the clips yet? Do you have to remove the exahust too? Not sure how to remove heat shield without removing exhaust, but this was my first time down there and I was in a bit of a rush. I can see the clips above the exhaust (pic 3 show the other one that's not rubbing and to the right just above the drive shaft is the problematic side.)

Edit, I'll look up removing the heat shield and I know this zip tie will pop off with any bump, but it's the best I can do for now. It's hanging on by literally a thread (of a bolt) lol

Try to put the ties where i did i havent had any problems since over 10k miles since this fix.

[Bimmerfan0101]

Originally Posted by cgraner

They need to replace that clip with a saddle block style clamp design. Here is a sketch I made up to show the concept:

https://photos.app.goo.gl/U4CQUGCkMNpaR2kF6

My local dealer told me they would replace it free under the Platinum Maintenance program the car was covered under that was purchased when the car was new. I have an appointment to let them fix it but in the meantime I have zip tied it up out of the way so it doesn't rub. It might be about as good as using the poorly designed clip. I will probably go back in and put in zip tie around the new clip and lines in case it breaks again or to help prevent it from breaking again.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/ja2cGzNfFuSPT77g9

I am having the same issue. Took my car to the dealer this morning, and they told me it is not covered under the Platinum Maintenance plan I bought when the car was new (even though the plan is still in effect). Wanted to confirm - did this repair end up being covered under your plan? Many thanks for your time.

[rooosh798]

I think I may have the same issue on my 2017 340. It seems to only make the noise under hard acceleration when I floor the gas and the car is under full load. Linked a short video showing what I am hearing.

Any suggestions on what the issue could be besides the e brake lines rubbing are also welcome.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eYX...ew?usp=sharing

[F30lolz]

Originally Posted by rooosh798

I think I may have the same issue on my 2017 340. It seems to only make the noise under hard acceleration when I floor the gas and the car is under full load. Linked a short video showing what I am hearing.

Any suggestions on what the issue could be besides the e brake lines rubbing are also welcome.

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1eYX...ew?usp=sharing

Yup, you have the same issue with the e-brake cable rubbing on the driveshaft. Easy zip tie fix and my mechanical skills are very limited. If I can do it, anyone can

[rooosh798]

Agree with you on the limited mechanical abilities lol. I usually end up creating a bigger mess than the original issue when trying to fix stuff.

Car still has 2 months of 4 year/50k mile warranty left so I will have dealer fix it and maybe secure it using zip ties just incase the clips break again.