[Allworth]

Hi,
I have fixed steering rack knocking noises that used to appear during hot weather, especially on a long run.
It was steering rack indeed, aware there are 2 types, mine is 'no repair kit' one, and it is sorted by tightening the nut.
Some people reported tightening it by about 20degrees, mine had more than, didn't pay attention but not far from a full turn. Tightened it all the way that steering is just about impacted (feels slightly heavier, although returns to neutral position), in fact it doesn't wobble as much as it used to on the bumps via force transfer from body and hands, perhaps closer to how it used to be when new? No idea- haven't owned from new.
For those DIY, if you open window while car is on axle stands it is possible to feel the steering wheel to see how resistance is changing, although there will be no change for some of the first degrees, which possible will already make a change on knocking.
A bit more about the problem on the link below
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1919184

[MY340i]

Thanks great post and useful for reference in the future.

Just to confirm you have the ZF steering rack?

[Allworth]

ZF = no kit (thats my rack, where you just tighten nut)
Thyssenkrypp (repair kit available)
Difference is obvious by looking at rack, if its a standard 17 hex nut = ZF, if its a 3 pin slot drum = Thyssenkrypp

Images of ZF rack with 17mm nut

[roundy]

tried to look out for that on a 335D but couldn't see it - does anyone have any pics for a 335D xdrive? or do i need the replacement kit?

[TurboWeasel]

It is exactly where he has pictured above, in the left picture. You'll need a torch or LED work light to see it but it's clearly visible when you get your viewing angle right.

If you can't see it, call up your dealer and ask them if part number 32106891974 is compatible with your car.

[TurboWeasel]

When winding the tensioning block in, you may find the steering weight varies depending on ambient temperature. Heavier when cold, lighter when hot. There's a very fine adjustment point between too little and too much tension. The steering controller doesn't seem to complain about too little or too much motor current in either case, so it's purely a subjective feel thing.

It can be adjusted in situ without jacking it up, so quick and easy to experiment with.

[roundy]

Originally Posted by TurboWeasel

It is exactly where he has pictured above, in the left picture. You'll need a torch or LED work light to see it but it's clearly visible when you get your viewing angle right.

If you can't see it, call up your dealer and ask them if part number 32106891974 is compatible with your car.

Good call, will do thanks.

[roundy]

Originally Posted by TurboWeasel

It is exactly where he has pictured above, in the left picture. You'll need a torch or LED work light to see it but it's clearly visible when you get your viewing angle right.

If you can't see it, call up your dealer and ask them if part number 32106891974 is compatible with your car.

My local sytner just replied and that part number is compatible with mine but out of stock through them.

[TurboWeasel]

OK, sweet, it's £50 plus a couple of hours labour well spent. Probably out of stock as so many of these cars need the repair kit!

Or you can do it yourself, it's not hard. You may not be able to get the tension exactly as BMW prescribe with their 10 page instructions and half a dozen special tools, but I had it done by them and ended up backing it out anyway as it didn't feel right. It's very subjective.

[roundy]

My local indie doesn't carry out the repair unfortunately, they remove & send for repair + geometry adjustment & labour is £1233.00!

Has anyone else had it done in the west midlands?

[Allworth]

Originally Posted by roundy

My local indie doesn't carry out the repair unfortunately, they remove & send for repair + geometry adjustment & labour is £1233.00!

Has anyone else had it done in the west midlands?

Sorry to hear this,
I've done mine on a driveway, 1-2 hour job

[AWebster]

Originally Posted by Allworth

Hi,
I have fixed steering rack knocking noises that used to appear during hot weather, especially on a long run.
It was steering rack indeed, aware there are 2 types, mine is 'no repair kit' one, and it is sorted by tightening the nut.
Some people reported tightening it by about 20degrees, mine had more than, didn't pay attention but not far from a full turn. Tightened it all the way that steering is just about impacted (feels slightly heavier, although returns to neutral position), in fact it doesn't wobble as much as it used to on the bumps via force transfer from body and hands, perhaps closer to how it used to be when new? No idea- haven't owned from new.
For those DIY, if you open window while car is on axle stands it is possible to feel the steering wheel to see how resistance is changing, although there will be no change for some of the first degrees, which possible will already make a change on knocking.
A bit more about the problem on the link below
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1919184

Sorry to hi-jack, I have an annoying knock that I can feel through my steering wheel but it is very intermittent.

Am I right in saying that if it was my steering rack, I would be able to re-produce by moving the wheel lock to lock stationary?

My knock (right side of vehicle I believe through the steering wheel) is most noticeable when:

Low speeds over small bumps or notches in the road, but I mean crawling, above this it doesn't seem to do it.

Coming to a stop, or setting off, any change of motion really, again the slower I do this the more noticeable.

Seems more apparent in the heat.
Took to local garage but they couldn't find or reproduce..

[roundy]

Sounds like you have the symptoms of the knock, yes.

[Allworth]

Originally Posted by AWebster

Am I right in saying that if it was my steering rack, I would be able to re-produce by moving the wheel lock to lock stationary?

No, however other symptoms suggesting you need a kit / tightening depending on the rack you've got.

[Kikocadillo]

Originally Posted by Allworth

Hi,
I have fixed steering rack knocking noises that used to appear during hot weather, especially on a long run.
It was steering rack indeed, aware there are 2 types, mine is 'no repair kit' one, and it is sorted by tightening the nut.
Some people reported tightening it by about 20degrees, mine had more than, didn't pay attention but not far from a full turn. Tightened it all the way that steering is just about impacted (feels slightly heavier, although returns to neutral position), in fact it doesn't wobble as much as it used to on the bumps via force transfer from body and hands, perhaps closer to how it used to be when new? No idea- haven't owned from new.
For those DIY, if you open window while car is on axle stands it is possible to feel the steering wheel to see how resistance is changing, although there will be no change for some of the first degrees, which possible will already make a change on knocking.
A bit more about the problem on the link below
https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1919184

So I have the ZF and bought the kit for the thyssenkrupp steering rack. What I did, is use chassis oil to grease all of the inside where you remove that bolt and whatever other cap there is, and use the white rubber that the thyssenkrup kit brought. A plus is use the coil spring as well but it is very hard to. This will eliminate the noise.

See you, hope this helps

[Allworth]

Originally Posted by Kikocadillo

So I have the ZF and bought the kit for the thyssenkrupp steering rack. What I did, is use chassis oil to grease all of the inside where you remove that bolt and whatever other cap there is, and use the white rubber that the thyssenkrup kit brought. A plus is use the coil spring as well but it is very hard to. This will eliminate the noise.

See you, hope this helps

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing

[Jackofallgrades]

Have suffered the same symptoms as TurboWeasel, but when looking for the tensioning nut on my ‘18 340i F31 couldn’t see anything? It is much more crowded in that area thanks to the intake for the turbo, but am I missing something? Should I look from underneath rather than on top?

[Allworth]

Originally Posted by Jackofallgrades

Have suffered the same symptoms as TurboWeasel, but when looking for the tensioning nut on my ‘18 340i F31 couldn’t see anything? It is much more crowded in that area thanks to the intake for the turbo, but am I missing something? Should I look from underneath rather than on top?

If you can physically sight that area(its hard to remember different under bonnet compositions) you should see one or the other (see pic) and note, both will be black due to dirt deposits.

[MY340i]

Originally Posted by Kikocadillo

So I have the ZF and bought the kit for the thyssenkrupp steering rack. What I did, is use chassis oil to grease all of the inside where you remove that bolt and whatever other cap there is, and use the white rubber that the thyssenkrup kit brought. A plus is use the coil spring as well but it is very hard to. This will eliminate the noise.

See you, hope this helps

welldone

[TurboWeasel]

Originally Posted by Jackofallgrades

Have suffered the same symptoms as TurboWeasel, but when looking for the tensioning nut on my ‘18 340i F31 couldn’t see anything? It is much more crowded in that area thanks to the intake for the turbo, but am I missing something? Should I look from underneath rather than on top?

It should be visible from the top on all Fxx cars, but as you say, the intake arrangements probably differ between diesel and petrol. It's pretty easy to spot on my 330d when looking down from the driver's side wing. If you can't see it all on yours, you might need to remove the turbo intake pipe.

It might be easier to jack it up and look from the bottom if that's the case as the bayonet clip on the turbo inlet can be an absolute arse to remove from above.

[brosot07]

Originally Posted by Kikocadillo

So I have the ZF and bought the kit for the thyssenkrupp steering rack. What I did, is use chassis oil to grease all of the inside where you remove that bolt and whatever other cap there is, and use the white rubber that the thyssenkrup kit brought. A plus is use the coil spring as well but it is very hard to. This will eliminate the noise.

See you, hope this helps

Where do you put the rubber in the ZF rack? on the springs?

[james280592]

Hi does anyone know where I can get a replacement zf 17mm nut cover from mine has been rounded off