[Asis]

I've small problems when starting car up with warm engine. First start of the day with cold engine is normal. Situation is also same when starting hot engine, car starts fine. Car also runs great, a little vibration can be noticed while idling but i guess it normal for this engine...

A problem begins if I let car stand 10-30min after drive and try to start it again. Then start will be very long. As you can see from this video:

Car is 2013 and driven almost 120000ml. Engine is totally checked though and everything looked good. There are also no fault codes shown by ista d. Parts which I've already changed:
-oil and filter
-airfilter
-cooling liquids
-all four injectors
-sparkplugs
-ignitioncoils
-timingchain kit
-oilpump module
-lambda (bank1)
-crankshaft sensor
-and of course many gaskets and bolts.
All parts are oem and engine is fully stock.

If someone have had similar problems or might have ideas what to
do next that would be awesome

[JoeyF30]

Have you checked starter?

[Asis]

Originally Posted by JoeyF30

Have you checked starter?

No I havent spend time with it yeat. Starter is turning engine around quite a good all the time. Of course everything is possible...

There must happen something abnormal while engine is switch off after drive because its working fine most of the time. Does anyone know how hpfp should work? Should there be a fault code if its broken?

[JoeyF30]

When was it last changed ?

[lefthander]

Originally Posted by Asis

I've small problems when starting car up with warm engine. First start of the day with cold engine is normal. Situation is also same when starting hot engine, car starts fine. Car also runs great, a little vibration can be noticed while idling but i guess it normal for this engine...

A problem begins if I let car stand 10-30min after drive and try to start it again. Then start will be very long. As you can see from this video:

Car is 2013 and driven almost 120000ml. Engine is totally checked though and everything looked good. There are also no fault codes shown by ista d. Parts which I've already changed:
-oil and filter
-airfilter
-cooling liquids
-all four injectors
-sparkplugs
-ignitioncoils
-timingchain kit
-oilpump module
-lambda (bank1)
-crankshaft sensor
-and of course many gaskets and bolts.
All parts are oem and engine is fully stock.

If someone have had similar problems or might have ideas what to
do next that would be awesome

Intake and Exhaust Camshaft gear.

[Asis]

https://photos.app.goo.gl/R2FJVBuKBjLntHjHA

You mean these parts? Already checked and ereverything fine.

[cspinnnn]

Originally Posted by Asis

I've small problems when starting car up with warm engine. First start of the day with cold engine is normal. Situation is also same when starting hot engine, car starts fine. Car also runs great, a little vibration can be noticed while idling but i guess it normal for this engine...

A problem begins if I let car stand 10-30min after drive and try to start it again. Then start will be very long. As you can see from this video:

Car is 2013 and driven almost 120000ml. Engine is totally checked though and everything looked good. There are also no fault codes shown by ista d. Parts which I've already changed:
-oil and filter
-airfilter
-cooling liquids
-all four injectors
-sparkplugs
-ignitioncoils
-timingchain kit
-oilpump module
-lambda (bank1)
-crankshaft sensor
-and of course many gaskets and bolts.
All parts are oem and engine is fully stock.

If someone have had similar problems or might have ideas what to
do next that would be awesome

Have you tried replacing your high pressure fuel pump? Could be that

[aL_bmwf30]

Originally Posted by Asis

I've small problems when starting car up with warm engine. First start of the day with cold engine is normal. Situation is also same when starting hot engine, car starts fine. Car also runs great, a little vibration can be noticed while idling but i guess it normal for this engine...

A problem begins if I let car stand 10-30min after drive and try to start it again. Then start will be very long. As you can see from this video:

Car is 2013 and driven almost 120000ml. Engine is totally checked though and everything looked good. There are also no fault codes shown by ista d. Parts which I've already changed:
-oil and filter
-airfilter
-cooling liquids
-all four injectors
-sparkplugs
-ignitioncoils
-timingchain kit
-oilpump module
-lambda (bank1)
-crankshaft sensor
-and of course many gaskets and bolts.
All parts are oem and engine is fully stock.

If someone have had similar problems or might have ideas what to
do next that would be awesome

How much did the timing chain kit cost you to replace? Parts and Labor?

[Asis]

Originally Posted by cspinnnn

Have you tried replacing your high pressure fuel pump? Could be that

Not yeat, yes it could be possible. Fuel pressure is at idle speed ~7,5MPa and when starting ~11,8-12,2MPa.

[Asis]

Originally Posted by aL_bmwf30

How much did the timing chain kit cost you to replace? Parts and Labor?

Parts and gasgets was something like 400€. I did it by myself. Next step will be testing all the houses and pipes with smoketester. I heard that some O-rings may become faulty when these cars gets old.

[cspinnnn]

Originally Posted by Asis

Not yeat, yes it could be possible. Fuel pressure is at idle speed ~7,5MPa and when starting ~11,8-12,2MPa.

Hmm, the other thing I could think of would be the external ambient temp sensor. Those tend to go on the n20 f30s. If it reads a cold temp it throws too much fuel to causing the long crank/ starting issue. It's on your charge pipe so maybe try that!

[DG330]

Have a look at your valvetronic servo motor. It has a plug center on the valve cover. The idle and cold start is controlled by this. It lifts the intake valves slightly without use of the throttle body.

It's about £200 plus you'll need to replace the injector seals and maybe VCG. Parts that is.

You could try starting it with this unplugged. I too have a warm start issue, but not as bad as that's. It just stalls then starts next time.

You can get the motor to relearn the start and stop position on ISTA+. I done this, it will take about 10 mins or so and will use the motor to control the revs between 700-1100.

Have you heard it clicking for about 30-60 seconds after a long drive when it's cooling down. It's quite common on the N55 engine. Lots of YouTube videos on it.

[Asis]

Thank you for your answers

I have once tested that relearning vanos positions already with ista. Servo motor was old and original but made it just for testing. If I cant find any vacuum leaks or anything else I'll continue with temp sensors and new servo motor. I just cant understand If those would be faulty because there are no fault codes...

[Asis]

No leaking hoses. Temperature sensors checked also once more and everyone shows realistic values. I think car need to be bring to bmw. They can Look at it with fresh eyes.

Living with honda's etc would be so much easier...

[DG330]

Watching your video again, it really looks like like the valvetronic motor.

Have you checked your intake valves?

Does it start when you give it a few revs to let more air in?

[DG330]

These have been a long issues on the petrols. However they were a lot easier to change as they sat on the engine valve cover.

Bmw decided to put it inside the bloody engine.

Essentially it controls the valve lift and the camshafts only carry out timing. If the motor is as min then the valves hardly open, if it's at max it's open fully. They work together for better performance and fuel economy. The throttle body is always open and the throttle/revs in controlled by the valvetronic - that's what I've read anyway.

So any starting, throttle issues combined with clicking noises coming from the engine is likely that motor.

This is mine:

Clicking - as the motor turns back to start (min)

Rough idle -

[Asis]

Originally Posted by DG330

Watching your video again, it really looks like like the valvetronic motor.

Have you checked your intake valves?

Does it start when you give it a few revs to let more air in?

Yeap, I've cheked hole head, everything incluiding valve sealings were ok. Pumping gas pedal pretty much does nothing when starting.

That first valvetronic video (e90) looked almost the same as mine and its not a big deal to change that motor so I ordered a new one and sealings for injectors.

[DG330]

Any chance of a write up when you do it with some pics.

I'm going to be doing mine at some point. 👍

[Asis]

Originally Posted by DG330

Any chance of a write up when you do it with some pics.

I'm going to be doing mine at some point. 👍

No problem, I should have those parts in the end of next week

[DG330]

Brilliant, thanks. Be great to see how the Teflon seals are fitted to the injectors and whether you use a tool or a DIY way.

Shame bmw put the valvetronic in the head and not on the valve cover like older engines

👍

[Asis]

At first I've removed fuel lines and wirings etc.
https://ibb.co/8DH00V3

After that I pulled out injectors.
https://ibb.co/gSXBQbD

I could almost say that hardest part is remove vacuum pump which is between engine and firewall.
https://ibb.co/KKb3gZQ

Then I was able to remove valvecover, turned eccentric shaft for vanos and locked it with minium stroke stopper.
https://ibb.co/0tfF0Jx

Injector sealings were easy job but it took plenty of time because I needed to do some special tools...
https://ibb.co/f2nBZ9G

Removing sealings was easy, in this pic you also are able to see assembling tool number one.
https://ibb.co/tbMGxF3

Pushing new sealing back its shape.
https://ibb.co/MNCxFDF

New vs. old motor
https://ibb.co/6858rJK

This write up is very short and fast but you can find better from newtis site. There are good pictures and proper writeup.

--------------------------------------------------------------

In the end this servomotor wasn't my issue. Problem in my case was hpfp. It was old number 7584461 and new one is 8604229. This was really hard to localize because fuel pressure were high in every situation. Actually it was too high when I tried to start car with warm engine. Solenoid valve which is integrated with pump just didn't work. Car have been working perfect now!

[DG330]

Originally Posted by Asis

At first I've removed fuel lines and wirings etc.
https://ibb.co/8DH00V3

After that I pulled out injectors.
https://ibb.co/gSXBQbD

I could almost say that hardest part is remove vacuum pump which is between engine and firewall.
https://ibb.co/KKb3gZQ

Then I was able to remove valvecover, turned eccentric shaft for vanos and locked it with minium stroke stopper.
https://ibb.co/0tfF0Jx

Injector sealings were easy job but it took plenty of time because I needed to do some special tools...
https://ibb.co/f2nBZ9G

Removing sealings was easy, in this pic you also are able to see assembling tool number one.
https://ibb.co/tbMGxF3

Pushing new sealing back its shape.
https://ibb.co/MNCxFDF

New vs. old motor
https://ibb.co/6858rJK

This write up is very short and fast but you can find better from newtis site. There are good pictures and proper writeup.

--------------------------------------------------------------

In the end this servomotor wasn't my issue. Problem in my case was hpfp. It was old number 7584461 and new one is 8604229. This was really hard to localize because fuel pressure were high in every situation. Actually it was too high when I tried to start car with warm engine. Solenoid valve which is integrated with pump just didn't work. Car have been working perfect now!

Thanks for this,

Glad you managed to get to the end of your problem.

Do you have any data readings of the HPFP before and after?

Thanks