[celsdogg]

sorry man, that stinks.

with the decline of the manual, experience with a it even at dealerships is low.

I had some warranty work done several years ago. when I went to pick it up they couldn't find anyone to get it for me at the time. I had to walk to the back of the lot to get it myself. which is absolutely fine with me.

[vrooooom]

Just so you know, my clutch went all the way to the floor also. Right at the shop after finishing the bleed. And again the following morning of the work. I just pumped it up several times. Myb 50+ times. By hand if it’s not going up by itself. Make sure your reservoir’s full. The day after that it’s much much better. Now I can’t even tell anymore. So yeah having it go all the way to the floor feels freaky but try that out. If you have the bump installed, remove that first to get the full range of motion , but I didn’t (got lazy)and it still worked.

Good luck. I’d hate seeing my car on a flatbed.

[Rick4345]

Well I was able to pull the pedal up and drive up to the dealership. Got there and I had to debate with my SA if they did a proper job bleeding the cylinder. The tech stepped up and said that there was a possibility there could be air in the system. Between him and the Service Manager they decided to bleed it again.

Drove home and everything felt and worked great. The next day I backed my car out and got out to close the garage door. And yes, you guessed it, the pedal was down. But only halfway. Called the dealership and I have an appointment Thursday morning. They ordered a new cylinder. It's coming from Nazareth, PA via FedEx. He's not sure if it will be there by morning. So I'll be spending all day up there because they can't spare a loaner car.

I emailed Evan at Getbmwparts.com and tried to explain the E90 cylinder won't recollapse again to go back in the box. We agreed the I'm going to send it and the original box to them and they can see for themselves. Is it going to work in my favor? I hope so but I doubt it.

I'm not at my wits end yet. I'm just amazed and disappointed at what seems to be a simple thing has turned into a goat rope. It's also frustrating because it's a 130 mile round trip. I also worked for them after I retired from my job.

I apologize and thank you for the support. Somewhere there's a therapist losing 120 dollars an hour. But I do know a dealership that's offsetting that savings.

[celsdogg]

I am wondering which slave cylinder did the dealership order?

[Rick4345]

Originally Posted by celsdogg

I am wondering which slave cylinder did the dealership order?

The one with the CDV. That's what is installed now. I don't want them to have the,"You know we're not responsible if the part isn't original to the vehicle." excuse.

[TOMF30N55]

Hey y'all, made a video with my mechanic about how to remove the CDV on an F30. Check it out!

Shoutout to Kern417 for originally doing a CDV delete on the F3x chassis, I figured I'd do one to demonstrate any and all differences you may encounter between RWD vs AWD cars

[Ausmurry]

Hey guys, just did the CDV delete on my 2017 340i. I didnt have to bleed the system at all, before I disconnected the line I crimped the clutch line using locking pliers and a microfiber to prevent damage. I then used the wood screw method to remove the metal and rubber delay valve pieces, and hooked the lines back up.

When I got in the car it initially had air in the clutch pedal I could feel, I opened the brake/clutch reservoir and pumped the clutch pedal 30ish times and their was no air in the lines at all. Been driving for a few days, clutch feels great, bites in the same spot it did before.

So just an FYI before going to all the work trying all the different bleed methods, just try pumping the clutch a few times with the reservoir cap open.

[samsamdar]

Originally Posted by celsdogg

i actually did it during a brake fluid flush and pad change so I bled it in conjunction with that work so it probably wouldn't apply to most who do this mod.

Changing the part was quick especially since the fluid line is only held in by a clip. I spilled probably 4 drops of brake fluid. getting the nuts off wasn't bad either, but i've had to fight with starter bolts and clutch disc changes in the past that put up a way bigger fight.

of note, the nuts that hold on the clutch slave to the transmission are lock nuts, the bmw kind where they are more ovular than circular. I used a small amount of medium threadlocker that can be broken easily with hand tools. I also put a dab of grease on the tip.

i bled via pressure bleeder and wife. since i was doing both systems it took longer and I also did a DSC bleed for good measure (just because of the brake work). It was bled after bolting it back to the transmission so my wife could safely press the clutch pedal during the bleed.


Comparison of old vs new. Both are FTE, the old of course being BMW branded by FTE.


This is all that was spilled. I didn't clamp the line. Instead, i just covered the line with my finger between switching the slave cylinders. Total time the line didn't have a slave cylinder on it was less than 10 seconds.


This is a screenshot of a video I took looking inside the transmission bell housing if anyone was curious. I just like to inspect stuff. The clutch fork looked a little dry, so. . [...]

So just to confirm, the new slave cylinder does NOT need to be fully extended to reinstall it? I can simply insert it in the position that it comes in out of the box? And also my understanding is DON’T do any pumping/bleeding until after it is installed? Thanks again for the pics! Gonna attempt this next week once I get the E90 slave in!

[celsdogg]

Originally Posted by samsamdar

So just to confirm, the new slave cylinder does NOT need to be fully extended to reinstall it? I can simply insert it in the position that it comes in out of the box? And also my understanding is DON’T do any pumping/bleeding until after it is installed? Thanks again for the pics! Gonna attempt this next week once I get the E90 slave in!

Yeah, just leave it as is. If you apply pressure on it you'll likely blow it out.

Good luck, it's been a good mod!

[samsamdar]

Originally Posted by celsdogg

Yeah, just leave it as is. If you apply pressure on it you'll likely blow it out.

Good luck, it's been a good mod!

Thank you! Any tips for bleeding? I was just gonna fill the reservoir up to the max and then use a motive power bleeder to make sure the level doesn’t dip below the max. Should I pump the clutch while power bleeding?

[celsdogg]

Originally Posted by samsamdar

Thank you! Any tips for bleeding? I was just gonna fill the reservoir up to the max and then use a motive power bleeder to make sure the level doesn’t dip below the max. Should I pump the clutch while power bleeding?

Np!

Yeah, in my experience I've had to push the clutch pedal in to get all the air out with a motive pressure bleeder.

A tip I picked up from the forum here is that there is a section of the brake fluid reservoir that is specifically for the clutch slave cylinder. You gotta fill over the wall that separates the brakes from the clutch to ensure it stays filled with fluid. So I filled the reservoir almost near the top, then put the pressure bleeder on.

[samsamdar]

Originally Posted by celsdogg

Np!

Yeah, in my experience I've had to push the clutch pedal in to get all the air out with a motive pressure bleeder.

A tip I picked up from the forum here is that there is a section of the brake fluid reservoir that is specifically for the clutch slave cylinder. You gotta fill over the wall that separates the brakes from the clutch to ensure it stays filled with fluid. So I filled the reservoir almost near the top, then put the pressure bleeder on.

Thanks man! I’ll report back on how it goes and maybe even make a DIY for it!

[vrooooom]

expect the pedal to hit bottom. You just need to pump that up too manually as in getting down there and move that w/ your hands several times. That's been my experience, which I also posted.

[samsamdar]

Status update: got it done with zero problems! I even got the bleed done in one attempt!

Some tips that I picked up on this thread and myself:
- definitely fill the master cylinder all the way to the top BEFORE you attach the motive power bleeder (then remove the excess fluid when you're done bleeding)
- make sure you fill up the power bleeder as well
- put a bunch of towels around the master cylinder in case of spills
- make sure you don't loose the seal between the clutch line and the slave (mine got stuck and I needed a pick tool to get it out of the old slave)
- after you're done using the power bleeder to bleed, leave the bleeder on and the bleeding valve open and pump the pedal a few times to get any final bubbles out
- you can get to the top bolt of the slave cylinder from behind the transmission by using a bunch of extensions, a wobble extension, and a 13mm long socket)
- use a long socket on the bottom slave bolt too (this made is easier for me)

Pics attached for reference:

[vrooooom]

I like how you had that iPhone behind the reservoir to see the level.

which brake fluid did you use?

[samsamdar]

Originally Posted by vrooooom

I like how you had that iPhone behind the reservoir to see the level.

which brake fluid did you use?

Haha the phone light made it a LOT easier to see the level. I used Motul RBF600!

[killerbeez]

I wanna say thank you so much for this guide. Especially the rundown of extensions, bendy things and wobble sockets. i tried for like 30 minutes a different way before i found this post and i had it off within a few minutes with the proper setup

However, I've ran into a problem. The new e90 slave doesn't seems to fit exactly right on the fluid line. The new one I can pull on it and it has a small amount of play, and fluid is leaking out of it when i try and fill the slave. I reinstalled the old one to make sure and it doesn't have the same play. i don't see any spacers or anything off the old one to move, so i'm at a loss here. anyone else ran into this?

Also this is an f80 my understanding it’s the same part numbers


pic: https://imageupload.io/en/fZDS4zbkJDr3tx2