08-22-2021, 08:29 PM | #1 |
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OFHG..
Haven't received a response to my OP. So will attempt again. Is this type of leak at 50k, considered to be an engineering/design defect? Therefore engaging my warranty?
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08-22-2021, 08:32 PM | #2 |
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Sooo.... why not just post this to the your original most?
Perhaps NOBODY knows what a OFHG is. Maybe if you spend a bit of time just typing WTF that means out you may get some sort of constructive answer? |
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08-22-2021, 09:43 PM | #4 |
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If it’s leaking within the warranty period I would say that is a manufacturing defect that should be covered by warranty.
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08-22-2021, 09:43 PM | #5 |
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Judging by the myriad number of posts and youtube videos about replacing the oil filter housing gasket, which somehow you've miraculously managed not to come across, it's pretty clear that it's a common issue. Gaskets don't last forever. Next up: WTF is the VCG?
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08-22-2021, 09:58 PM | #7 |
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"Only looking for substantial and articulate responses"
An entertaining stance given that titling the thread as "OFHG.." starts off with obfuscating not only with an acronym but one that nobody uses or knows. |
08-22-2021, 10:16 PM | #8 |
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OFHG is actually a pretty common term on Bimmer forums that many members understand.
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08-22-2021, 10:34 PM | #9 | |
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If your car is under warranty, it's covered. If it's not...it's not. Pretty easy to grasp.
50K miles is pretty early for an OFHG but Germans cannot design an oil seal...period. Oil leaks are a fact of life with BMWs. Quote:
BMW's oil gasket life is abysmal. 50K for an oil leak is pathetic. That said, this is par for the course for BMW and it isn't that big of a deal.
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08-22-2021, 11:51 PM | #10 |
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At 50k? Driven lightly, it's despicable. I would've lost my job for such a design flaw or service incompetency. My former Mazda had no leaks at 130k, whether a "Myriad number of posts". Had an Audi in years past, it always weeped, Mercedes next?
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08-23-2021, 07:31 AM | #12 |
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08-23-2021, 07:42 AM | #13 |
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I would have Googled it, but figured why am I having to do EXTRA work to help out the OP who is so lazy he cannot remotely try to help himself.
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08-23-2021, 09:19 AM | #14 | |
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Of course doing so means owning the E10 1/4 drive swivel socket so you can get it apart without having to pull a bunch of other stuff. Fortunately the shadetree, CTA knocked off the $48 Snap-On. Top tip for those still following, an 8mm ratcheting wrench will spin out the front E10 head torx screw once you break it loose with the proper wrench. |
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08-23-2021, 09:48 AM | #15 | |
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08-23-2021, 11:13 AM | #16 | |
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Maybe my 3-6 months servicing intervals have kept the issue at bay? My latest 6-cyl ///M (a 2006 Z4MC with 160,000 road & track miles on it) doesn't use a drop of oil between services...but I do them at least twice as often as the SI says. |
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08-23-2021, 12:01 PM | #17 | |
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08-23-2021, 01:18 PM | #18 | ||
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335i rwd auto, 2015 with m performance LSD and Dinan stage 2. Cts charge pipe, mad 5" stepped intercooler.
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08-23-2021, 05:05 PM | #19 | |||
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Only did it once myself on the 335 and it is not a 30 min job with out some trickery. The other replacements were done under warranty. Knock on wood, I have not had the issue with 45k mi on my b58 |
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08-24-2021, 12:30 AM | #20 |
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My N20 has about 203k miles which I believe had the original OFHG and on the way back from Florida last month the gasket gave up the ghost. For the final 500 miles I had to throw in two (2) quarts as I knew it was leaking but didn’t seem that bad until it started leaking a lot. Had it taken care of at an indy a few days after I returned for about $400 including an old change. OP, ‘lettuce’ know the outcome at the dealer.
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08-24-2021, 10:48 AM | #21 | ||
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I don't pull the coolant flange from the front of the head, and I don't remove the intake manifold. Edit: I also clamp the hose off the heat exchanger so I don't have to drain coolant or oil. The front bolt gets loosened with a flat E10 wrench (Stahlwille) or alternatively a short E10 1/4 socket (Stahlwille) and a 1/4 breaker bar. Once it's loose, I use an 8mm ratcheting wrench (Craftsman [Gearwrench]) to extract the bolt. If I owned a ratcheting E10, I might try that, but alas... Also note that the Snap-On E8/E10 combo wrench is both too long and too angled to fit. The middle bolt is a straight R/R using a convention E10 socket in either 1/4 or 3/8 drive. The rear bolt gets removed using the 1/4 swivel E10 (Snap-On) [now also available as CTA 2476] by going between the 1st and 2nd runners on the intake with a long 1/4 locking extension. Everything gets torqued back to spec with a Stahlwille 730/5 - 725QR Don't mind the fact that I also had the valve cover off this N52 to replace the eccentric shaft sensor for the Vanos. Last edited by X Mon™; 08-24-2021 at 11:02 AM.. |
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08-24-2021, 02:57 PM | #22 | |||
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335i rwd auto, 2015 with m performance LSD and Dinan stage 2. Cts charge pipe, mad 5" stepped intercooler.
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