[M Pete]

I have an additional question related to this. If you replace your TC with a rebuild, is the computer reset something you can do with most code readers/resets? Anyone know what specific system is needed so as to not go to the dealer?

[kdog_x]

Not sure of other options, but the transfer case adaptations can be easily reset using ISTA, under service functions. Possibly could do this with some other readers as well.

If you're referring to programming a new control module or reprogramming a used one, ISTA-P is the only option I believe, and requires an ICOM cable. I tried to use E-Sys to program one but for some reason the VTG module didn't even show up in the tree.

[Enabled]

It's called LMV in the BMW engineering programs.

ISTA-P stopped supporting F chassis about 2 years ago. So depending on which version you torrent, you would have to use ISTA-D (aka ISTA+). These are dealer programs.


Basic scanners cannot do the programming, the transfer case calibration code, nor the commands to relearn the clutch position.
Best to get in touch with a friendly independent mechanic specializing in this chassis, a friendly dealer, or do it yourself.

[kdog_x]

Hmm, I didn't know ISTA-P stopped supporting F chassis. I take it that only applies to the new versions? My copy seems to work, though it is older and I haven't really needed to use it as of yet. It always yells at me for having too low a voltage, even when plugged into a charger which scares me a little to flash modules. E-Sys seems better for this purpose, other than the transfer case since it's strangely missing.

I'd recommend anyone tinkering with these cars get a cheap laptop, ISTA-D, and a $20 E-Net cable. It takes a few hours to get it going but it Makes diagnostics much easier and allows basic service functions like resetting adaptations and priming after fuel filter changes. Basic scanners don't get you enough details to really diagnose anything

[Enabled]

It's LMV in esys

[kdog_x]

Originally Posted by Enabled

It's LMV in esys

Good to know! Hopefully I'll never need to use that info!

[opinion914]

I get jealous when I see ESYS resolved issues. I have a copy but get to the coding portion and no-go due to a missing token. Seems I missed the boat on the ESYS fun.

[M Pete]

Great info, thanks. I was figuring it fell somewhere between my code reader/reset and having to go to the dealer. I'll just line up a coder in the area prior to doing the swap out.

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by opinion914

I get jealous when I see ESYS resolved issues. I have a copy but get to the coding portion and no-go due to a missing token. Seems I missed the boat on the ESYS fun.

Lol. Like kdog_x wisely said, he hopes to not have to use it. At least for flashing and coding for solving problems.

Yes, for FDL coding (custom coding) it's very useful.
The token part is taken care of user tokenmaster's hack/loader for esys. He has released free loaders that cover the token and the trimmed data (meaning that the coding names were gone).

[delorean175]

Originally Posted by kdog_x

So, BMW Quoted me $5700 for the repair. My total cost (excluding labor obviously)

Driveline:
Front Driveshaft torx screws - 26117529387 - $1.95 ea x 4 = $7.80
Rear Driveshaft Hex Bolt - 26117527475 - $6.49 x 3 = $19.47
Rear Driveshaft Guibo bolt - 26117635643 - $5.86 x 3 = $17.58
Driveshaft Locking Nut - 26127536563 - $1.98 x 3 = $5.94

Total: $50.79

Transfer Case:
BMW Transfer Case Oil - 83222409710 - $46.66 x 1 = $46.66
Oil Plug - 33117525064 - $7.60 x 1 = $7.60
Rear Flange Assembly - 27107593440 - $230.34 x 1 = $230.34
Rear Output Shaft Oil Seal - 27107546667 - $33.38 x 1 = $33.38

Total: $317.98

Internal Bearings, for a full rebuild you would need 4 bearings, more if you replace the thrust bearings on the center gear, but I did not replace those:

Front Shaft 6008C3 x 2 = $21.99 x 2 = $43.98
Rear Shaft 6009C3 x 1 = $19.99
Input Shaft 6210X5NC3 x 1 = $29.99

Total: $93.96

Grand Total: $462.73 excluding shipping for parts, which was probably around $80 since I used multiple sources. If I was able to obtain the input shaft in the USA I would have which would have added $200 to the total. Not too bad as far as I'm concerned... still a bit cheaper than buying a used unit and having it freighted... and more reliable in my mind.


There's a great exploded view of the transfer case in this PDF on page 25, for any other parts that may be needed.

http://www.fzth.de/fileadmin/user_up...e_2018_web.pdf

I really appreciate you taking the time to make such a detailed write up! Not that many detailed write ups for the F30 yet. Back when I had an e28 I got spoiled by the abundance of write ups and information on the forums.

[Zaqjonas]

Hi. I know this is an old thread but i have just changed the output flange on my transfer case and now some thing is wrong with the actuator. How did you do? Did you have it calibrated by dealer och some diy trick?

[kdog_x]

Originally Posted by Zaqjonas

Hi. I know this is an old thread but i have just changed the output flange on my transfer case and now some thing is wrong with the actuator. How did you do? Did you have it calibrated by dealer och some diy trick?

There's a calibration for the actuator in ISTA, I believe you have to enter in a number that's stamped on the actuator if I remember correctly. However, replacing the flange shouldn't require any re-calibrating. Maybe just try clearing the codes?

[redbullfan]

Originally Posted by David3

Case reinstalled with new clutch pack and old control unit. Using ISTA, I could communicate with control module, but could not calibrate. So, now I am thinking I had a bad control module/servo unit all along. Might explain why internals of case looked ok.

Thoughts on how to test control unit. BTW, those suckers are expensive at about $600.

Just curious on what you ended up doing. I have the same symptoms as you. Was thinking to just change the fluid and call it a day hoping it would fix it lol.

[macman_lahti]

I have also problems with TC. I took fuses off today and jerking ended. Accelerates very smooth after that. So I think its not rear output flange..? Need to be some problem with clutch ?

[programmrz]

Originally Posted by redbullfan

Just curious on what you ended up doing. I have the same symptoms as you. Was thinking to just change the fluid and call it a day hoping it would fix it lol.

I had the same issue. Turns out the worm gear within the TC was broken. Trying to replace the TC right now but seeing if I can mill the piece first out of aluminum

[opinion914]

Originally Posted by programmrz

... seeing if I can mill the piece first out of aluminum

Is the worm wheel in there plastic as well?

[Enabled]

Originally Posted by opinion914

Is the worm wheel in there plastic as well?

No, it's metal

[Shepsie]

Great write up, what was your reason for wanting to change the output flange in the first place.... What were your symptoms?

I have a 2013 F31 320d msport Xdrive with 96k.
The problem I have is only apparent when the car has warmed up ...after 5 to 7 miles.
Once warm when Im accelerating say 50-70mph on a motorway or A road the car shudders, it also does it for a few seconds on throttle lift off.
Through town in city traffic it also judders between gear shifts too...almost like a miss-fire.

I found the fuse for the transfer box module and removed it and drove the car, it was a vast improvement, the shudder when accelerating 50-70 had reduced massively but is still there slightly and the judder between shifts when starting off (city driving) had disappeared.
I have read that the transfer boxes can be the cause of this and some say that it's down to the output flange and shaft wearing, surly if this was the case I'd be able to hear the teeth grinding / clonking and the issue would be there 100% of the time, not just once the car has warned up ?

[macman_lahti]

Originally Posted by Shepsie

Great write up, what was your reason for wanting to change the output flange in the first place.... What were your symptoms?

I have a 2013 F31 320d msport Xdrive with 96k.
The problem I have is only apparent when the car has warmed up ...after 5 to 7 miles.
Once warm when Im accelerating say 50-70mph on a motorway or A road the car shudders, it also does it for a few seconds on throttle lift off.
Through town in city traffic it also judders between gear shifts too...almost like a miss-fire.

I found the fuse for the transfer box module and removed it and drove the car, it was a vast improvement, the shudder when accelerating 50-70 had reduced massively but is still there slightly and the judder between shifts when starting off (city driving) had disappeared.
I have read that the transfer boxes can be the cause of this and some say that it's down to the output flange and shaft wearing, surly if this was the case I'd be able to hear the teeth grinding / clonking and the issue would be there 100% of the time, not just once the car has warned up ?

If car shudders after you have removed fuse ( you have 2WD ) its possible that flange is worn. In my case clutch drum was warn ( marks inside ) which I removed with file. No other repairs and 1500km's have been smooth.
But my car was totally fine after removing fuses for transfer case.

See small marks in drum,

[B58 parts]

I have an extra small bottle of the weicon grease if anybody ever needs it, free. I accidentally ordered 2, and the website ignored my request to change the order.

I was not able to tap out the mount bushing myself, I started to mangle the cup and had to take it to a local dealer. Surprisingly one agreed just to do take the Tcase in hand and do the bushing, pretty cool they would do that without the car and paperwork etc.

Can this be moved to the xdrive section? This is one of the best threads on the site.

I've saved it as a complete webpage, if someone is reading this years from now and the images are gone, DM me, I have them. Thanks OP, incredibly useful

[kdog_x]

Actually I just got to revisit this project recently. The output flange started going out on my vehicle again at a little under 240k. I could feel the slip beginning for about 10k miles or so. I removed the flange and inspected, the output shaft was still in good shape. I re-replaced both guibos again for good measure, picked up a new flange, cleaned everything up and slathered the shaft with Loctite 660. Probably been about 5k since the change and it's running well... we'll see how she holds up

[awd.tech]

Originally Posted by kdog_x

There's a great exploded view of the transfer case in this PDF on page 25, for any other parts that may be needed.

http://www.fzth.de/fileadmin/user_up...e_2018_web.pdf

Unfortunately, it looks like that link no longer works, so let me leave the currently working link to the ATC35L exploded view (schema).