[MysteriousGas]

Was wondering if F80 pads would fit on the front of the grey 340mm calipers. I believe the caliper is quite similar if not the same so was wondering. Been slightly disappointed with the oem pad due to lack of durability when it comes to more spirited driving so am looking for a modest upgrade. Not necessarily a fan of Hawk 5.0 either as they require slightly more pedal effort.
Thanks

[Billfitz]

Find the OEM part at realoem.com. They show every year and model it was used on.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

Find the OEM part at realoem.com. They show every year and model it was used on.

Well, RealOEM may not show you that you would be able to use the F80/F82 brake pads on a 335i with the M Sport Brake Option, but you can.

I think the OP's in a similar boat. But i'm 99% sure of is that the rear brakes for the F80/F82 won't fit on his rear brakes because they are of a very different caliper design.

The OP could be introducing some odd brake balance bias if he tried to just use the front F80/F82 brake pads.

[MysteriousGas]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Well, RealOEM may not show you that you would be able to use the F80/F82 brake pads on a 335i with the M Sport Brake Option, but you can.

I think the OP's in a similar boat. But i'm 99% sure of is that the rear brakes for the F80/F82 won't fit on his rear brakes because they are of a very different caliper design.

The OP could be introducing some odd brake balance bias if he tried to just use the front F80/F82 brake pads.

Thanks

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by MysteriousGas

Was wondering if F80 pads would fit on the front of the grey 340mm calipers. I believe the caliper is quite similar if not the same so was wondering. Been slightly disappointed with the oem pad due to lack of durability when it comes to more spirited driving so am looking for a modest upgrade. Not necessarily a fan of Hawk 5.0 either as they require slightly more pedal effort.
Thanks

OEM pads are softer and designed to offer an aggressive bite. The laws of physics being what they are, softer pads produce more brake dust while extending the rotor lifespan.

By mentioning durability, do you seek a pad which lasts longer?

[MysteriousGas]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

OEM pads are softer and designed to offer an aggressive bite. The laws of physics being what they are, softer pads produce more brake dust while extending the rotor lifespan.

By mentioning durability, do you seek a pad which lasts longer?

They don’t really hold up on more aggressive driving. They’ll usually glaze themselves after a canyon drive or start developing a permanent squeal. I’ve noticed bmw pads are really prone to squealing in general even when not driven hard. I’ve seen Hawk 5.0 pads go on a track day and still don’t develop any squealing.

[N1rve]

Originally Posted by MysteriousGas

Was wondering if F80 pads would fit on the front of the grey 340mm calipers. I believe the caliper is quite similar if not the same so was wondering. Been slightly disappointed with the oem pad due to lack of durability when it comes to more spirited driving so am looking for a modest upgrade. Not necessarily a fan of Hawk 5.0 either as they require slightly more pedal effort.
Thanks

There are better brake pads than F80 OEM pads like EBC Redstuff if you drive spirited. There is just an outrageous amount of dust.

To answer your question if they will fit and the answer is yes. When I looked up the F80 pads, it’s applicable to M sport and Non-Msport Brake calipers.

[MysteriousGas]

Originally Posted by N1rve

There are better brake pads than F80 OEM pads like EBC Redstuff if you drive spirited. There is just an outrageous amount of dust.

To answer your question if they will fit and the answer is yes. When I looked up the F80 pads, it’s applicable to M sport and Non-Msport Brake calipers.

Cool, thats good to know. I'm also factoring brake squeal and dust into my concerns. Cleaning wheels and having them dusted again after driving in la traffic alone is not fun

[N1rve]

Originally Posted by MysteriousGas

Cool, thats good to know. I'm also factoring brake squeal and dust into my concerns. Cleaning wheels and having them dusted again after driving in la traffic alone is not fun

I use Akebonos for my M4. It’s very low dusting, good enough bite, and in emergency braking it still stops. Braking distance is really based off your tires.

[danb1979]

Originally Posted by MysteriousGas

Was wondering if F80 pads would fit on the front of the grey 340mm calipers. I believe the caliper is quite similar if not the same so was wondering. Been slightly disappointed with the oem pad due to lack of durability when it comes to more spirited driving so am looking for a modest upgrade. Not necessarily a fan of Hawk 5.0 either as they require slightly more pedal effort.
Thanks

Zero issues here using OEM BMW pads in my 370/345mm brakes; found them to be very good TBH - great bite, no squeal and they've had some hard driving through them (road, not track); they're paired with OEM BMW M Performance slotted/grooved discs FYI

Yes they create dust; but ceramic coated wheels and a quick wash, they're clean again

Re other pads; I've found Ferodo DS2500s to be very good in the past; really rated the ATE Ceramic pads on previous cars, which you can get for the larger brakes on the F3x cars via Autodoc in Germany etc

Personally I wouldn't touch EBC pads; wouldn't pi$$ on them if they were on fire. Had plenty of bad experiences with them (Redstuff & Yellowstuff) and avoid them like the plague now.

Know plenty of folk that have suffered similar issues (not running very well; poor bedding in, lots of squealing, lots of dust (more so the Redstuff); poor/uneven wear etc - that's using blank as well as C/J Hook & other grooved discs)

Unless you're going to go hard on track; the F80 M3 pads are good also; my pal runs them in his F30 340i which has been remapped and is used on a few tracks around the UK and he's had zero issues (he does run a separate set of wheels/tyres for his track days though); so he's not too worried about dust... Other than that, no untoward noises/squeals etc

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by MysteriousGas

They don’t really hold up on more aggressive driving. They’ll usually glaze themselves after a canyon drive or start developing a permanent squeal. I’ve noticed bmw pads are really prone to squealing in general even when not driven hard. I’ve seen Hawk 5.0 pads go on a track day and still don’t develop any squealing.

Very unusual. What rotors does your car have? Smooth? How old are the rotors?

If the brake pads develop a layer of glaze after one canyon run, the heat isn't properly dissipated. The only question is why.

As the temperatures increase, the friction material in brake pads transforms into dust and gas. As the temperatures still increase (heat not being dissipated), the brake pad materials becomes harder and smoother, resembling a mirror-like surface. Once that occurs, effective friction against the rotor cannot be maintained.

As the friction material in brake pads transforms into dust and gas, gas has to escape. Drilled and /or slotted rotors help the gas to escape + help dissipate the heat.

As the brake pad material is removed during braking, the slots act as shaving blades and help remove the first layer of the pad material which has been glazed. This allows the brakes to function consistently despite extreme temperatures. J-hook style rotors from AP Racing do this job very well.

If whatever reason the heat isn't properly dissipated during braking, evaluating better rotors will be helpful.

[MysteriousGas]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

Very unusual. What rotors does your car have? Smooth? How old are the rotors?

If the brake pads develop a layer of glaze after one canyon run, the heat isn't properly dissipated. The only question is why.

As the temperatures increase, the friction material in brake pads transforms into dust and gas. As the temperatures still increase (heat not being dissipated), the brake pad materials becomes harder and smoother, resembling a mirror-like surface. Once that occurs, effective friction against the rotor cannot be maintained.

As the friction material in brake pads transforms into dust and gas, gas has to escape. Drilled and /or slotted rotors help the gas to escape + help dissipate the heat.

As the brake pad material is removed during braking, the slots act as shaving blades and help remove the first layer of the pad material which has been glazed. This allows the brakes to function consistently despite extreme temperatures. J-hook style rotors from AP Racing do this job very well.

If whatever reason the heat isn't properly dissipated during braking, evaluating better rotors will be helpful.

I have either the M Performance or Zimmerman dimpled/slotted rotors. I'm not sure since the shop that did my brake service was scummy and claimed they used M Performance on paper but I'm pretty sure I saw a thrown away Zimmerman box when picking up the car. Either way I have heard good things about both. The brake system definitely did feel tired after one track day and that was with me braking early to preserve the brakes. Interestingly enough after I changed my tires to 4s from All seasons the brakes did start producing very interesting noises of all sorts. When coming close to a stop they sometimes start making grinding noises and otherwise they'll start making a very nasty squeal that sounds like metal on metal contact. Both of these happen typically as soon as the pads have any sort of heat in them. Not sure if it's because the pads or rotors were already tired and the stickier 4s put more stress on them but doubt that as it happens in normal driving. The pads still have life left as it's been measured at a dealer multiple times.

Due to this I have been disappointed with oem pads. I've also seen multiple m3/4 from friends who do not drive their car spiritedly at all develop squeal. I must admit the OEM pads do feel best overall though from what I have experienced.
Sorry I know that was a lot lol