[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by fe7565

The wire colors help you identify which pin is which, but focus on connect pins(!) together not wires as the wire colors can vary.

Driver mirror:

Ground Pin 4 to pin 1 on new Switch
LIN Pin 5 to pin 2 on new Switch
Power pin 6 to pin 3 on new Switch

Passenger mirror:

Ground pin 4 to pin 7 on new Switch
LIN pin 5 to pin 8 on new Swifch
Power pin 6 to pin 9 on new Switch

New switch:

Solder bridge between :

Pins 1-7. (ground)
Pins 2-8. (LIN)
Pins 3-9 and pins 9-10. (Power)
Pin 5,6,12 not used

Info:

Pin 11 is switch ground
Pin 4 is LIN from FEM pin 42
Pin 10 is power in to switch

Is the bridge between 9 and 10 needed.
Is that really AND?

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by mrpingu

Is the bridge between 9 and 10 needed.
Is that really AND?

It depends on what wires you use or re-use. If you go from a 6-pin mirror to a 5-pin mirror, you save time and effort by reusing all the original wires and not having to run new wires to both new 5-pin mirrors and the new 5-pin mirror driver switch.

Power comes in to Pin 10 of driver switch on both the 6-pin and 5-pin mirror systems. This only applies if you are going from a 6-pin to a 5-pin system. If you are going from a 6-pin no-LIN-setup to a 5-pin LIN-setup with a new driver switch (made for 5-pin) AND if you re-use the original 6-pin-setup wire going from pin 9 of the old driver switch to the passenger side pin 6 as a power wire, then you will need to connect/bridge the driver switch Pin 10 to Pin 9. Pin 9 of the new 5-pin driver switch will supply power to Pin 6 of the passenger mirror module.

Pin 3 and Pin 1 of the old 6-pin driver switch supplied originally power to the 6-pin-setup driver mirror, but using the 5-pin-setup driver switch, only Pin 3 of the new driver switch will supply power to the 5-pin mirror by connecting to Pin 6 of the 5-pin driver mirror module. So you will need to provide power from Pin 10 to Pin 3 of the new driver switch.

While Pin 1 wire of the new driver switch will not be used as power anymore, but is re-used as the ground wire between the 5-pin mirror module and the 5-pin driver switch. It will run between Pin 1 of the new 5-pin driver switch and Pin 4 of the 5-pin mirror module.

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by fe7565

It depends on what wires you use or re-use. If you go from a 6-pin mirror to a 5-pin mirror, you save time and effort by reusing all the original wires and not having to run new wires to both new 5-pin mirrors and the new 5-pin mirror driver switch.

Power comes in to Pin 10 of driver switch on both the 6-pin and 5-pin mirror systems. This only applies if you are going from a 6-pin to a 5-pin system. If you are going from a 6-pin no-LIN-setup to a 5-pin LIN-setup with a new driver switch (made for 5-pin) AND if you re-use the original 6-pin-setup wire going from pin 9 of the old driver switch to the passenger side pin 6 as a power wire, then you will need to connect/bridge the driver switch Pin 10 to Pin 9. Pin 9 of the new 5-pin driver switch will supply power to Pin 6 of the passenger mirror module.

Pin 3 and Pin 1 of the old 6-pin driver switch supplied originally power to the 6-pin-setup driver mirror, but using the 5-pin-setup driver switch, only Pin 3 of the new driver switch will supply power to the 5-pin mirror by connecting to Pin 6 of the 5-pin driver mirror module. So you will need to provide power from Pin 10 to Pin 3 of the new driver switch.

While Pin 1 wire of the new driver switch will not be used as power anymore, but is re-used as the ground wire between the 5-pin mirror module and the 5-pin driver switch. It will run between Pin 1 of the new 5-pin driver switch and Pin 4 of the 5-pin mirror module.

Thanks for you reply, hugely appreciated.
I am coming from a Non-LIN setup as I do this on a F48.

If I understand you and it correctly, incoming power is on pin 10, so this power has to be distributed to pin 3 (driver mirror power) and Pin 9 (Passenger mirror power) so both get power. Clear to me.

Why does the picture from Wibbles only show a bridge between 3 and 9 not 10 connected aswell?



But isn't PIN 10 already connected to 3 internally, I mean power out to Driver Mirror is on PIN 3, so only connecting PIN 3 to 9 Should provide power to passenger mirror (using power out driver mirror bridged to power out passenger mirror). so technically the bridge between 10 and is not needed or do I get this wrong?

[Wibbles]

You don't need to rewire the car at all, just add the pins to the switch pack and bridge the pins, fit and code - that is all.

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by Wibbles

You don't need to rewire the car at all, just add the pins to the switch pack and bridge the pins, fit and code - that is all.

I know but question is whether to bridge pin 10 to pin 9 or not

Atleast
Pin 1- 7 for ground
Pin2 - 8 for LIN
Pin 3-9 for Power


Non-Lin switch
1 Driver mirror wire 1
2 Driver mirror wire 2
3 Driver mirror wire 3
4 BDC LIN
5 Rear-Lid button in driver door wire SIG
6 Rear-Lid button in driver door wire GND
7 Passenger mirror wire 1
8 Passenger mirror wire 2
9 Passenger mirror wire3
10 Power IN
11 GND
12 Not used

Lin switch
1 GND Driver mirror wire 1
2 LIN driver mirror wire 2
3 POWER Driver mirror wire 3
4 BDC LIN
5 Rear-Lid button in driver door wire SIG
6 Rear-Lid button in driver door wire GND
7 GND Passenger mirror wire
8 LIN Passenger mirror wire
9 POWER Passenger mirror wire
10 Power IN
11 GND
12 Not used

Edit, can I use shorter pins, I have 11.5mm pins lying around, will those reach long enough?

[Wibbles]

I would just modify as I described, use the right length pins and you will have an easy life

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by Wibbles

I would just modify as I described, use the right length pins and you will have an easy life

Yeah thought so, then I have to wait for the pins to arrive, damn it. Takes ages from alieXpress but haven't found something local (disadvantage living in Norway, away from everything haha)


But So no bridge needed between 9 and 10?
Only 3 bridges?

1-7
2-8
3-9

[Wibbles]

Originally Posted by Wibbles

Hope this helps:

As per this pic

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by Wibbles

As per this pic

Did it like that, thanks!

Just so you know you can push out the pins from the old switch and reuse them. They are kind of spring fixed. I did this as I couldnt wait on my pins to come

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by mrpingu

Thanks for you reply, hugely appreciated.
I am coming from a Non-LIN setup as I do this on a F48.

If I understand you and it correctly, incoming power is on pin 10, so this power has to be distributed to pin 3 (driver mirror power) and Pin 9 (Passenger mirror power) so both get power. Clear to me.

Why does the picture from Wibbles only show a bridge between 3 and 9 not 10 connected aswell?



But isn't PIN 10 already connected to 3 internally, I mean power out to Driver Mirror is on PIN 3, so only connecting PIN 3 to 9 Should provide power to passenger mirror (using power out driver mirror bridged to power out passenger mirror). so technically the bridge between 10 and is not needed or do I get this wrong?

You can also take the power for the the passenger mirror off from Pin 3 of the driver switch. But using pin 9 for power (and bridging it to pin 10 or pin 6) saves you from having to move that wire between the switch and the passenger mirror Pin 6.


Pin 10 of the 5-pin swtich is internally connected already to Pin 3.

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by fe7565

You can also take the power for the the passenger mirror off from Pin 3 of the driver switch. But using pin 9 for power (and bridging it to pin 10 or pin 6) saves you from having to move that wire between the switch and the passenger mirror Pin 6.


Pin 10 of the 5-pin swtich is internally connected already to Pin 3.

So you don’t have to bridge between 9-10 because you are getting 12V through pin 3
Pin 9 gets power from pin 3 via bridge and 3 is internally bridged/connected to 10. Only reason to bridge 9 to 10 is the bypass the internal connection, but as I understand it now it is not needed.

Pin 6 is for trunk lid button, so unsure what you mean with that.
I am going to install it like this (bridge like wibbled suggested) and see if it works, if not I’ll know I have to bridge 10 to 9 aswell.


Edit: Checked resistance / continiuty with multimeter and pin 10 / 3 are already shorted so I expect zero problems with current setup.

[mrpingu]

Can confirm that this method also works for X1 (f48). Thanks for all the help Wibbles & fe7565

Wrote a little 'updated' guide for X1 on the x1 forum

[fe7565]

Started this retrofit just today as part of the Blind Spot Warning (Lane Change Warning) project After realizing that I was trying to reinvent the wheel with adapting the old 6-pin to the 5-pin, now (with the hardware in hand) I have come to the conclusion that Wibbles solution is the best and simplest. Will bridge Pins 7-1, 8-2, 9-3 internally.

However, I do not want to destroy the new folding driver switch by opening it incorrectly with brute force. I took the 4 screws out and tried to press on the very top side tabs, but no luck. Any tips/suggestions?

[Wibbles]

Originally Posted by fe7565

Started this retrofit ad part of the Blind Spot Warning (Lane Change Warning) project After realizing that I was trying to reinvent the wheel with adapting the old 6-pin to the 5-pin, now with the hardware in hand I have come to the conclusion that Wibbles solution is the best and simplest. Will bridge Pins 7-1, 8-2, 9-3 internally.

However, I do not want to destroy the new folding driver switch by opening it incorrectly with brute force. I took the 4 screws out and tried to press on the very top side tabs, but no luck. Any tips/suggestions?

You need to use a couple of small flat tipped screwdrivers to release the tabs - it’s a fiddle but is not too difficult. Take your time and don’t use brute force

[fe7565]

Thank you. These on the top? Not the middle section.

EDIT: got it open by wedging in screw drivers n one side and then one in the middle and pried it up.

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by fe7565

Thank you. These on the top? Not the middle section.

EDIT: got it open by wedging in screw drivers n one side and then one in the middle and pried it up.

Yeah, this is the hardest part of the job

Need two flat screwdrivers,
Tip, use the end of a tie-wrap/cable tie to stick into the tabs after you pushed the tab open with screwdriver. It can hold the tab in 'open' position and so you can work your way round.

[fe7565]

Managed to replace both 6-pin mirrors today with 5-pin with Lane Change Warning. Didn't need to remove any door panels. Added the new driver switch too. Tomorrow: battery re-connect and FDL code. I have a retrofitted rearview mirror with garage opener, etc., so do not want to "430" VO-code the FEM and loose those FDL codes. I do not care for folding mirrors, only did it for the Lane Change Warning.

Then next step is to resume the Lane Change Warning (LCW) project.

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by fe7565

Managed to replace both 6-pin mirrors today with 5-pin with Lane Change Warning. Didn't need to remove any door panels. Added the new driver switch too. Tomorrow: battery re-connect and FDL code. I have a retrofitted rearview mirror with garage opener, etc., so do not want to "430" VO-code the FEM and loose those FDL codes. I do not care for folding mirrors, only did it for the Lane Change Warning.

Then next step is to resume the Lane Change Warning (LCW) project.

Nice

What you can do is write correct VO-codse to VCM to match your equipment but don't code the ECUs. his way you won't lose any (custom) FDL codings but if you have to reset the car it calculates automatically all correct values according to installed equipment.


I manually calculated all FDL values which code 430 affects then FDL coded them to the ECU (BDC, in my case not FEM). This because so I don't lose any other custom coding. I however did write 430 to the VCM so in case dealer codes the car (still on official BMW service agreement) they atleast code it correctly.

I also coded 420 "Sun protection glazing" to VO as I have retrofitted film on the windows and this affects the mirror auto dip sensitivity.
In case the dealer codes, atleast that FDL values is set correct right away.

I would recommend to VO-code atleast to the VCM as long as you didn't change time critereria. If you have changed that, you shouldn't write to VCM.

[fe7565]

Thank you, I appreciate and understand your suggestion. Unfortunately, my NBT HU has an emulator with VIN and time criteria coding. Also my iDrive controller has time criteria.

I do have a list of 430 codings that were posted, but your suggestion is better and I will manually check what ECUs and FDL codings 430 will affect. My understanding is that it’s only the FEM, but will see.

[mrpingu]

Originally Posted by fe7565

Thank you, I appreciate and understand your suggestion. Unfortunately, my NBT HU has an emulator with VIN and time criteria coding. Also my iDrive controller has time criteria.

I do have a list of 430 codings that were posted, but your suggestion is better and I will manually check what ECUs and FDL codings 430 will affect. My understanding is that it’s only the FEM, but will see.

I posted the FDL codes over at the x1 forum, should be the same as BDC is FEM + REM.
Only thing tricky might be the PF_SZT_LIN_VAR as that one depends on other equipment on the LINbus as well.

[fe7565]

Originally Posted by mrpingu

I posted the FDL codes over at the x1 forum, should be the same as BDC is FEM + REM.
Only thing tricky might be the PF_SZT_LIN_VAR as that one depends on other equipment on the LINbus as well.

Thank you. I will check it out. I remember a while back it took me some work to get the interior rearview mirror LIN settings correctly .

[fe7565]

Ran into some obstacles this morning when connected the battery back. The passenger mirror would not move. I heard the motors moving and several clicks. Checked closer, and the mirror mount was all the way up in an abnormal angle. Had to remove the screw in the middle, pry off the two holding tabs, and then had to go around with a screw driver to pull several tabs back below the ball that moves around. They prevented it physically from coming back to a normal operating range.

This helped me fix it: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1524591



Then my passenger window would not come back down (only up). Would only come down with the passenger side switch not the driver switch. So, I figured one of those white tabs on the driver switch must have got displaced for the window up. Sure enough that fixed it. Of course taking it apart was a b*tch again.

Then checked the NCD Tool "what if" feature which ECU needs to be coded and with what. Only the FEM showed up with codes. Then Bimmercode-d the FEM. All works fine, checked the folding too. But one error code remained for the FEM:

D90D06 switch block on driver's door: wrong version installed

So looked at the list of other codes I gathered from various posts and also what mrpingu noted about it in his post above. I figured that has to do with the basic or "low" mirror system that I had vs the new LIN (high) mirror system I installed. The switch itself is from 2014 and is not an ECU so zeitkriterium should not matter (also, I think I matched the part # in REL OEM before I bought it).

What I had in BimmerCode was something like this:


SZT_LIN_VAR -> SZT_LOW_etc_etc, etc



So changed to:


(01)PF_SZT_LIN_VAR -> SZT_HIGH_4FACH_FH_SPA_HKL (0A)

But didn't work. My ECUs are all flashed to 2023 I-Level, except the NBT. Wondering, if I may be better to code in Esys 430 to REM as well? And as last resort code FEM with 430, and just redo any other maanua FDL coding.

So, will research more what the rest of this code's settings are (FH, HKL, etc) while I also let the car sit overnight maybe the codes update (unlikely).