F30 Rotors change

vinzcast21 · 09-09-2019, 02:02 PM

Hello there,

My car is asking me to change brake pads at 15000 kms left, but when I'm braking downhill, my steering wheel shakes so I went to an Indy and they recommended me to change the front 2 rotors set. They said I do not need to replace the pads as it still has about 5mm left for the front.

My question is, would it be okay just changing the rotors? and since my car is without M brakes, the rear discs are normal oem and the front I opted for drilled slotted, would that also be fine?

Thank you!

Solidjake · 09-09-2019, 02:56 PM

For the 340 I assume you still have 4 piston brembo calipers. I would just replace it all up front. Zimmerman rotors and Akebono pads are a great combo

Wgosma · 09-09-2019, 02:56 PM

Better to replace both front pads and rotors....I'd question a shop/mechanic that says replace only the rotors and use the existing/old pads - that is not what the mechanic's I'm familiar with would ever recommend.

Stick with OEM/OE parts; pass on the drilled/slotted rotors - often that creates more problems.

Gen13 F36 · 09-09-2019, 03:04 PM

+1

Change rotors and brake pads at same time... your indy mechanic trying to charge you twice by making you come back to change pad down the road.

vinzcast21 · 09-09-2019, 03:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen13 F36

+1

Change rotors and brake pads at same time... your indy mechanic trying to charge you twice by making you come back to change pad down the road.

I dont need to change the sensors too right?

Wgosma · 09-09-2019, 03:21 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinzcast21

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gen13 F36

+1

Change rotors and brake pads at same time... your indy mechanic trying to charge you twice by making you come back to change pad down the road.

I dont need to change the sensors too right?

You don't have to, but sometimes the old sensor gets brittle and may crack upon removal- sensor is cheap, but a new one.

chowser51 · 09-09-2019, 07:13 PM

I just change pads, rotors and sensor at the same time. Makes it easier. I know it’s all new.

Fliplegend · 09-09-2019, 07:45 PM

The real question is, will you be DIY'ing this or paying a shop? if the latter, it would be wiser to do all of it and pay only once for the labor.

vinzcast21 · 09-09-2019, 07:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Fliplegend

The real question is, will you be DIY'ing this or paying a shop? if the latter, it would be wiser to do all of it and pay only once for the labor.

If no labour is counted, like we talked about it and he said when next pads I wont charge labour for it, what do you think?

vinzcast21 · 09-09-2019, 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by glm409

There is no rule that you need to change pads and rotors at the same time and especially no rule that says you need to turn the rotors. Personally I would never turn the rotors since it just leads to premature replacement and it takes very little time to bed the new pads in. On weekend track events I may go through one or two sets of pads. The pads are very easy to change, so you may want to ask the price to change the pads once they wear out and decide if you just want to do them at the same time to eliminate future trips into the shop.

Regarding rotor selection: Dimpled and slotted are fine (although some people complain about the noise they generate) but in my experience drilled do not last as long. They look great, but now you expose more surface area for rust and failure.

OEM is always good, but in my opinion, there are OEM equivalents of equal quality and warranty at a much lower price. The OEM pads have a great initial bite, but they generate a lot of dust. I use OEM pads when auto-crossing, but aftermarket pads at track events. I can swap out my street tires/wheels and pads with track tires/wheels and pads in about an hour.

which pads would you recommend for just daily use with going down a mountain daily and speed limit is 60kmh therefore I will be braking a lot

Wgosma · 09-09-2019, 07:54 PM

....don't cheap out: new pads/rotors/sensor, done.

Street driven daily driver: stock pads and rotors more than adequate

Fliplegend · 09-09-2019, 08:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinzcast21

If no labour is counted, like we talked about it and he said when next pads I wont charge labour for it, what do you think?

5mm isn't much and for me its not worth the chance of ruining new rotors ( by reusing the pads). I'd suggest getting a new sensor either way.

johnung · 09-09-2019, 11:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by vinzcast21

Quote:

Originally Posted by glm409

There is no rule that you need to change pads and rotors at the same time and especially no rule that says you need to turn the rotors. Personally I would never turn the rotors since it just leads to premature replacement and it takes very little time to bed the new pads in. On weekend track events I may go through one or two sets of pads. The pads are very easy to change, so you may want to ask the price to change the pads once they wear out and decide if you just want to do them at the same time to eliminate future trips into the shop.

Regarding rotor selection: Dimpled and slotted are fine (although some people complain about the noise they generate) but in my experience drilled do not last as long. They look great, but now you expose more surface area for rust and failure.

OEM is always good, but in my opinion, there are OEM equivalents of equal quality and warranty at a much lower price. The OEM pads have a great initial bite, but they generate a lot of dust. I use OEM pads when auto-crossing, but aftermarket pads at track events. I can swap out my street tires/wheels and pads with track tires/wheels and pads in about an hour.

which pads would you recommend for just daily use with going down a mountain daily and speed limit is 60kmh therefore I will be braking a lot

Replace rotors, pads, sensor and fluid.

Rotors: Zimmermann or StopTech. Plain is fine. Drilled give you better bite and shed water. Dimpled pick up rusty brake material so avoid them. Slotted are meant for track so they tear up pads and are noisy.

Pads: Hawk 5.0 have great bite, low dust and it's light and washes away. Perfect street pad. Much better than ceramic pads that take time to heat up especially in the cold

Stock sensor and stock fluid are fine just replace fluid every two years.

09-09-2019, 02:02 PM	#1
vinzcast21 Lieutenant 161 Rep 446 Posts Drives: F30 340i MY2017 Join Date: Jul 2018 Location: canada iTrader: (0)	F30 Rotors change Hello there, My car is asking me to change brake pads at 15000 kms left, but when I'm braking downhill, my steering wheel shakes so I went to an Indy and they recommended me to change the front 2 rotors set. They said I do not need to replace the pads as it still has about 5mm left for the front. My question is, would it be okay just changing the rotors? and since my car is without M brakes, the rear discs are normal oem and the front I opted for drilled slotted, would that also be fine? Thank you! __________________ ================================= Mod bug will bite you if you buy a BMW =================================
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09-09-2019, 02:56 PM	#2
Solidjake ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ 945 Rep 1,762 Posts Drives: '13 328i Msport 6MT Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: NYC/SNJ iTrader: (2)	For the 340 I assume you still have 4 piston brembo calipers. I would just replace it all up front. Zimmerman rotors and Akebono pads are a great combo __________________ Tensioner/belt DIY \| Side skirt extension DIY Apex SM-10/DWS06+ \| 400m/X-ice Xi3 \| Injen Exhaust \| Stoptech SS Lines \| 335 Front Brakes Hawk HPS 5.0 \| RBF600 \| ER Charge Pipes \| Wagner Evo Comp 2 FMIC
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09-09-2019, 02:56 PM	#3
Wgosma Lieutenant Colonel 806 Rep 1,906 Posts Drives: 2012 F25 X3 28i (N52) Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Northern Nevada iTrader: (0)	Better to replace both front pads and rotors....I'd question a shop/mechanic that says replace only the rotors and use the existing/old pads - that is not what the mechanic's I'm familiar with would ever recommend. Stick with OEM/OE parts; pass on the drilled/slotted rotors - often that creates more problems.
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09-09-2019, 03:04 PM	#4
Gen13 F36 Brigadier General 1599 Rep 3,748 Posts Drives: 428i Gran Coupe Join Date: Nov 2017 Location: Los Angeles, CA iTrader: (1)	+1 Change rotors and brake pads at same time... your indy mechanic trying to charge you twice by making you come back to change pad down the road.
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09-09-2019, 07:13 PM	#7
chowser51 Colonel 2025 Rep 2,807 Posts Drives: F33 430 and F39 M35i Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Cleveland, OH iTrader: (3) Garage List 2018 BMW 430i xDrive [0.00]	I just change pads, rotors and sensor at the same time. Makes it easier. I know it’s all new.
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09-09-2019, 07:45 PM	#8
Fliplegend Captain 1471 Rep 975 Posts Drives: 2015 435ix F33 Join Date: Nov 2018 Location: NH iTrader: (0)	The real question is, will you be DIY'ing this or paying a shop? if the latter, it would be wiser to do all of it and pay only once for the labor. __________________ 15' 435i F33 Metallic Grey/Dakota Black/Contrast Blue \| AWD \| M Sport 15' 328i F30 Mineral White/Dakota Saddle Brown \| AWD \| Luxury Line
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09-09-2019, 07:54 PM	#11
Wgosma Lieutenant Colonel 806 Rep 1,906 Posts Drives: 2012 F25 X3 28i (N52) Join Date: Sep 2018 Location: Northern Nevada iTrader: (0)	....don't cheap out: new pads/rotors/sensor, done. Street driven daily driver: stock pads and rotors more than adequate
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