[obzen]

I had a BMW indy shop install a set of M4 Calipers and 370mm Front and 345mm back Zimmermann Slotten/Dimpled rotors with Akebono pads on my F36.

Still cannot get over the ticking noise that these produce with the windows down.

I know this topic has been covered before but has anyone found a solution to this??

[toxik]

the solution is to not use dimpled rotors but use drilled or just slotted, or blanks.

[obzen]

Originally Posted by toxik

the solution is to not use dimpled rotors but use drilled or just slotted, or blanks.

Well that sucks, given that BMW offers the slotted/dimpled combo with their M Performance Brakw package. I wish they would disclose when buying this upgrade.

[toxik]

Originally Posted by obzen

Well that sucks, given that BMW offers the slotted/dimpled combo with their M Performance Brakw package. I wish they would disclose when buying this upgrade.

performance brakes a lot of times mean added noise, i think they could’ve easily went drilled instead of dimples, who knows why they chose the latter.

[im_an_alien]

I have the M brakes, Akebono pads and blank Zimmerman rotors. No clicks, squeaks or squeals.

[lens]

Originally Posted by toxik

performance brakes a lot of times mean added noise, i think they could’ve easily went drilled instead of dimples, who knows why they chose the latter.

Drilled can cause cracks depending in age, corrosion etc.

Dimpled and slotted has better bite and less wear in brake pads.

Having switched between the both for years, I prefer Dimpled as I have noticeably longer brake pad life and better bite.

[toxik]

Originally Posted by lens

Drilled can cause cracks depending in age, corrosion etc.

Dimpled and slotted has better bite and less wear in brake pads.

Having switched between the both for years, I prefer Dimpled as I have noticeably longer brake pad life and better bite.

but the f80 rotors are drilled afaik, and they use the same calipers. i always thought it was cheaper to do dimpled.

all my previous cars, i ran just slotted when I upgraded rotors, I always found it to be good enough for bite.

[Runner340]

I have drilled Stoptech rotors which allows heated air to escape through the vanes in the rotor. I don't have clicking or squealing from my M-Sport BBK but that could also be from other contributing factors in my assembly/installation process. Regarding the dimpled and slotted Brembo/BMW rotors. Is it possible that the heated air trapped in the those slots and dimples tries to escape as the pads pass over them and creates a back pressure causing the pads to oscillate? When I replaced the blank rotors I considered the OEM dimpled and slotted Brembo/BMW rotors but felt they were a flawed design on a couple of fronts. 1st they weren't L/R directional and second where does the heat in those dimples and slots escape to as the pads pass over them. Perhaps some of that heat passes through the slot in the pad friction material if equipped but again seems the only real benefit of the slotted/dimpled rotors are to mitigate potential cracking which may be for manufacturing cost savings by using the standard non directional blank rotors that are not designed to be drilled through making the legal dept happy.

[obzen]

I ordered two 31108053073 friction disks for the outside of the front two rotors as I heard from a forum member that it stopped the clicking. Hope this helps! I’ll update once installed.

[charlie fairmont]

Originally Posted by obzen

I ordered two 31108053073 friction disks for the outside of the front two rotors as I heard from a forum member that it stopped the clicking. Hope this helps! I’ll update once installed.

This is from bimmerworld:
"This part is listed by BMW as BMW part number 31108053073 (31 10 8 053 073) and is described as a thin metal spacer that fits between the brake rotor and the wheel bearing hub on F22/F3X M Sport, F8X M2/M3/M4, F10 M5, F06/F13 M6, F85 X5M, and F86 X6M models. BMW may also call it a "Higher Coefficient Of Friction Disc". If you have ticking or clicking noises coming from the front wheels when cornering or braking it's likely caused by shifting movement between the rotor hat and the wheel bearing hub. This shim sits between them and fills in any tiny gaps and interfaces between the aluminum rotor hat and the iron hub."
https://www.bimmerworld.com/Brakes/B...xoCXFgQAvD_BwE

I wish you the best but I think that, unfortunately, there's no way these solve your problem. You're stuck with the ticking until you replace your rotors. It's really that simple.

[Cytoplasm0671]

If you do replace your rotors I highly suggest switching out your rotor set screws with stainless steel screws because the stock set screws are notoriously garbage. Costs $10 and could save a massive headache down the road.

[lllRazorlll]

I'm about to do front brakes on my F32 435i. I am debating using the slotted and dimpled rotors but I'm reading that there is a ticking that is frustrating. Is it possible you can post a video of the ticking?

[jyerelek]

Originally Posted by obzen

I ordered two 31108053073 friction disks for the outside of the front two rotors as I heard from a forum member that it stopped the clicking. Hope this helps! I’ll update once installed.

Did you ever install these parts? And did they help?

[obzen]

[QUOTE=jyerelek;30430336]Did you ever install these parts? And did they help?

I returned them as soon as I got it. It made no sense how that would help so no. Just been living with the ticks ever since. Summer is almost over here so prob won’t be doing window down drives in couple months.

[jyerelek]

[QUOTE=obzen;30430371]

Originally Posted by jyerelek

Did you ever install these parts? And did they help?

I returned them as soon as I got it. It made no sense how that would help so no. Just been living with the ticks ever since. Summer is almost over here so prob won’t be doing window down drives in couple months.

Shits mad annoying. The only point it’s ever quiet is after a hard drive. And the weird part is I have friends with the same setup that are no where near as loud.

[LBC_335i]

Quick question for y’all is it possible to run the 4 piston front calipers in the back?

[johnung]

Originally Posted by LBC_335i

Quick question for y’all is it possible to run the 4 piston front calipers in the back?

Nope. Gotta run a caliper in the rear with a corresponding rotor that has an emergency brake machined inside the rotor hat. Like the Brembo 2-piston over 345x24

[johnung]

Get full crossdrilled rotors. StopTech makes them with directional internal vanes for optimal cooling. They have best bite and are best in rain because water can’t trap between pad and rotor.

Dimpled and slotted are just a gimmick/scam from BMW Marketing. They sell a lot of them to F3x owners while BMW actually installs full crossdrilled on M3/M4 because they are best for street. Full crossdrilled also on Porsche, Mercedes, McLaren, etc

[obzen]

Originally Posted by johnung

Get full crossdrilled rotors. StopTech makes them with directional internal vanes for optimal cooling. They have best bite and are best in rain because water can’t trap between pad and rotor.

Dimpled and slotted are just a gimmick/scam from BMW Marketing. They sell a lot of them to F3x owners while BMW actually installs full crossdrilled on M3/M4 because they are best for street. Full crossdrilled also on Porsche, Mercedes, McLaren, etc

This was my initial choice but they were out of stock at the time so went with Zimmerman.

Never will I buy dimpled rotors again. The ticks are stupid.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by Cytoplasm0671

If you do replace your rotors I highly suggest switching out your rotor set screws with stainless steel screws because the stock set screws are notoriously garbage. Costs $10 and could save a massive headache down the road.

I’ve been considering a set of those but after applying some anti-rust paint to the stock screws, no problems with them at all … except having to buy a whole can of anti-rust paint

[johnung]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

I’ve been considering a set of those but after applying some anti-rust paint to the stock screws, no problems with them at all … except having to buy a whole can of anti-rust paint

NeverSeize on the rotor screw threads is another option used for probably 50 years. It works great on hubs too to keep hubs and wheels from sticking g together with corrosion. Just spray Formula 409 on the hub lip that contacts the wheel, wire brushing off the rust and spray it all down with brake cleaner. Then use the brush that’s built-in to the NeverSeize lid to apply a thin coat all around. See photo.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by obzen

This was my initial choice but they were out of stock at the time so went with Zimmerman.

Never will I buy dimpled rotors again. The ticks are stupid.

Zimmerman does sell full crossdrilled rotors in certain sizes that are less expensive than StopTech. Some of the reason is because they are not directionally vaned. (Mercedes does the same thing)

Not all of the Zimmermann full crossdrilled rotors are distributed in the US. I would recommend getting them from a solid retailer that I’ve used in Germany for years. He ships to the US. His email is:
andreas.schade@gmx.de