[Clemy]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

I mean, your safety limit is at 31.9 but you don't get anywhere up there. Also, 224/230kw doesn't back up 30psi either.

Like I said I don't have logs of it boosting at 30psi but I have seen my boost gauge run to 29-30psi wen the app was open. It wasn't constant boost at 30 but it's peaked to 30.

[M2_MEDUSA]

Originally Posted by THbimmer

Well guys, Exactly what the post says.... am i in danger of seriously damaging my engine internals?

22psi peak boost. 100 degree average intake temps....

What do you guys think?

Cheers!!!

22psi is fine, im currently peaking at 22.65psi but the meth has me at 50-65 degree iat in 80 degree ambient im also running ethanol to keep my temps down, Definitelly wanna go no higher than 23psi on stock turbo but you guys need to understand an important thing here.

TORQUE KILLS ENGINES, our stock turbo on 20psi is more dangerous then a big turbo on 24psi (not precise numbers just making a point) With the larger turbo your going to allow the torque peak to build instead of the instant ramp up our stock turbo creates, our stock turbo kills our motor when over boosted because its so small. Running and MHI turbo or Dinan Big turbo is your best bet to run 23psi much safer. 23psi on these two turbos will be better on your internals while making more power because its a gradual torque build up.

I get special pricing on N20/6 Dinan Big turbo if anyones interested in a Group Buy, $1,100 Shipped straight from Dinan, straight Bolt on.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by IssaF32

22psi is fine, im currently peaking at 22.65psi but the meth has me at 50-65 degree iat in 80 degree ambient im also running ethanol to keep my temps down, Definitelly wanna go no higher than 23psi on stock turbo but you guys need to understand an important thing here.

TORQUE KILLS ENGINES, our stock turbo on 20psi is more dangerous then a big turbo on 24psi (not precise numbers just making a point) With the larger turbo your going to allow the torque peak to build instead of the instant ramp up our stock turbo creates, our stock turbo kills our motor when over boosted because its so small. Running and MHI turbo or Dinan Big turbo is your best bet to run 23psi much safer. 23psi on these two turbos will be better on your internals while making more power because its a gradual torque build up.

I get special pricing on N20/6 Dinan Big turbo if anyones interested in a Group Buy, $1,100 Shipped straight from Dinan, straight Bolt on.

So on the same tune, say a PTF OTS map, the bigger turbo will be safe because it builds boost more gradually? Isn't it about the tune not the turbo? I understand that the size of the stock turbo makes it really peaky, but with an OTS map that's designed for the stock turbo, won't the power band be just as peaky?

[M2_MEDUSA]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

So on the same tune, say a PTF OTS map, the bigger turbo will be safe because it builds boost more gradually? Isn't it about the tune not the turbo. I understand that the size of the stock turbo makes it really peaky, but with an OTS map that's designed for the stock turbo, won't the power band be just as peaky?

Well no, Not exactly you will see an increase across the entire powerband and you will not run out of air in higher gears. It will continue to pull. OTS only you will gain good whp across entire powerband

The boost peak hits quick on this turbo but its just a tad slower to hit peak boost than the dangerous stock turbo we have now, maybe a .5-1.5 seconds longer to hit max boost at most which is a world of difference on the internals but once it hits max boost you will continue to pull and pull. Ots map u should see a 1-1.5 extra psi over your current tune because greater airflow on this turbo.

Making 22-24psi on Dinan turbo or MHI turbo the stress it creates id assume its equivalent to making 18-20 psi on stock turbo as far as the stress on the internals. so its a much safer 22-24psi

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by IssaF32

Well no, Not exactly you will see an increase across the entire powerband and you will not run out of air in higher gears. It will continue to pull. OTS only you will gain good whp across entire powerband

The boost peak hits quick on this turbo but its just a tad slower to hit peak boost than the dangerous stock turbo we have now, maybe a .5-1.5 seconds longer to hit max boost at most which is a world of difference on the internals but once it hits max boost you will continue to pull and pull. Ots map u should see a 1-1.5 extra psi over your current tune because greater airflow on this turbo.

Making 22-24psi on Dinan turbo or MHI turbo the stress it creates id assume its equivalent to making 18-20 psi on stock turbo as far as the stress on the internals. so its a much safer 22-24psi

I totally understand your point, I'm just not sure I totally agree with you. I do totally agree however, that flattening the power band is safer and easier on the engine, I'm just not sure it can be done just through a turbo upgrade on the same tune. I could be wrong of course, that's just what I'm thinking. Interested to see what others have to say on this subject. If what you're saying is true though, that I could just put an MHI turbo on my car and run the same OTS Stage 2 map and be way safer, then I'm pretty interested...

[M2_MEDUSA]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

I totally understand your point, I'm just not sure I totally agree with you. I do totally agree however, that flattening the power band is safer and easier on the engine, I'm just not sure it can be done just through a turbo upgrade on the same tune. I could be wrong of course, that's just what I'm thinking. Interested to see what others have to say on this subject. If what you're saying is true though, that I could just put an MHI turbo on my car and run the same OTS Stage 2 map and be way safer, then I'm pretty interested...

What are you disagreeing with? The fact that you will not see higher boost just by going bigger turbo? That's normal facts. Just ask Bunker, He went bigger turbo on OTS instantly gaining 2psi. One of his logs showed 24psi. More airflow and bigger compressor allows for this. This is common knowledge. Torque kills engines, By going bigger turbo you allowing slight lag low end it keeps torque load stress down as allowing it to climb over time rather than an abrupt spike. With Ots Your still going to have low end lag because its gonna take longer to spool because more surface area within the turbo making it safer with more power.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by IssaF32

What are you disagreeing with? The fact that you will not see higher boost just by going bigger turbo? That's normal facts. Just ask Bunker, He went bigger turbo on OTS instantly gaining 2psi. One of his logs showed 24psi. More airflow and bigger compressor allows for this. This is common knowledge. Torque kills engines, By going bigger turbo you allowing slight lag low end it keeps torque load stress down as allowing it to climb over time rather than an abrupt spike. With Ots Your still going to have low end lag because its gonna take longer to spool because more surface area within the turbo making it safer with more power.

I agree with the idea that going with a bigger turbo and tuning to shift the torque and power curves over to the right (incidentally introducing a bit of lag down low), so they peak closer to redline rather than down low in the rev range like they do stock, will be safer for the engine. I also understand that the stock rods in our engines can fail if you push too much boost on the stock turbo because it gets so peaky on the low end, and all that low rpm torque can bend or snap a rod. I get all that. I understand flow rates and why the stock power band looks like it does. What I'm tentatively questioning about what you said is the premise that by just bolting on a bigger turbo (MHI, Dinan, whatever) you will shift that power band. The OTS maps are designed for the stock turbos, so I would imagine that running a bigger turbo on an OTS map won't substantially move the power band to the right, as the tune is designed with the flow rates etc. of the stock turbo in mind. Like I said, I could be wrong, but that's just what I'm thinking.

Also, I don't know that you'll make more boost pressure by running the same tune with a bigger turbo. The target boost will stay the same and the MAP will still recognize when you hit target and keep you there and ideally won't let you go over. I don't think just bolting on a bigger turbo will instantly make more psi. Boost pressure is in the tune, not the turbo, is basically what I'm thinking. That's not to say you won't hit the target more easily with the bigger turbo, as it'll be working much less hard than the stock one to hit 22psi or whatever, but I still don't think just a bigger turbo without being tuned for it will increase boots pressure.

[M2_MEDUSA]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

I agree with the idea that going with a bigger turbo and tuning to shift the torque and power curves over to the right (incidentally introducing a bit of lag down low), so they peak closer to redline rather than down low in the rev range like they do stock, will be safer for the engine. I also understand that the stock rods in our engines can fail if you push too much boost on the stock turbo because it gets so peaky on the low end, and all that low rpm torque can bend or snap a rod. I get all that. I understand flow rates and why the stock power band looks like it does. What I'm tentatively questioning about what you said is the premise that by just bolting on a bigger turbo (MHI, Dinan, whatever) you will shift that power band. The OTS maps are designed for the stock turbos, so I would imagine that running a bigger turbo on an OTS map won't substantially move the power band to the right, as the tune is designed with the flow rates etc. of the stock turbo in mind. Like I said, I could be wrong, but that's just what I'm thinking.

Also, I don't know that you'll make more boost pressure by running the same tune with a bigger turbo. The target boost will stay the same and the MAP will still recognize when you hit target and keep you there and ideally won't let you go over. I don't think just bolting on a bigger turbo will instantly make more psi. Boost pressure is in the tune, not the turbo, is basically what I'm thinking. That's not to say you won't hit the target more easily with the bigger turbo, as it'll be working much less hard than the stock one to hit 22psi or whatever, but I still don't think just a bigger turbo without being tuned for it will increase boots pressure.

That's what youd think right, I thought the same thing before, But that's not the case here, A bigger turbo like Dinan or MHI will naturally generate more psi because more flow, Yes there is a target boost but its not a ceiling you can easily go over just as much as u can go under, your target boost is set for the small turbo so you wont go above target but with a bigger turbo you will pass up the target boost by up to 2psi because of the extra surface area. ots tune is meant for stock turbo so a bigger turbo you will see a higher boost because of Air flow. Bunker will be able to chime in, Im in the same area as him and hes experienced this first hand

Also With OTS it WILL be safer and take longer to spool because the compressor weighs slightly more than stock compressor meaning more weight and a slight lag in the time it takes to fully spool, Addition to this because of the more surface area inside the turbo the time it takes for the exhaust gasses to make its full pass within the turbo is increased Sure its not much but you cant argue that its something and that in itself is safer than the stock turbo time.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by IssaF32

That's what youd think right, I thought the same thing before, But that's not the case here, A bigger turbo like Dinan or MHI will naturally generate more psi because more flow, Yes there is a target boost but its not a ceiling you can easily go over just as much as u can go under, your target boost is set for the small turbo so you wont go above target but with a bigger turbo you will pass up the target boost by up to 2psi because of the extra surface area. ots tune is meant for stock turbo so a bigger turbo you will see a higher boost because of Air flow. Bunker will be able to chime in, Im in the same area as him and hes experienced this first hand

Also With OTS it WILL be safer and take longer to spool because the compressor weighs slightly more than stock compressor meaning more weight and a slight lag in the time it takes to fully spool, Addition to this because of the more surface area inside the turbo the time it takes for the exhaust gasses to make its full pass within the turbo is increased Sure its not much but you cant argue that its something and that in itself is safer than the stock turbo time.

Gotcha. That explanation makes sense. That being said, say you do run an extra 2 pounds of boost with a bigger turbo on an OTS map, that'd put you at 24.5 psi theoretically. So even with the heavier compressor shifting the power curve slightly to the right, don't you think that extra two pounds will harm the engine more than the shifting of the curve will help it? I know I wouldn't want to run 24 psi on my N20, because we've seen ring land failures at that type of pressure, regardless of where the peak torque is.

Also interested to see what BunkerJ has to say.

[M2_MEDUSA]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Gotcha. That explanation makes sense. That being said, say you do run an extra 2 pounds of boost with a bigger turbo on an OTS map, that'd put you at 24.5 psi theoretically. So even with the heavier compressor shifting the power curve slightly to the right, don't you think that extra two pounds will harm the engine more than the shifting of the curve will help it? I know I wouldn't want to run 24 psi on my N20, because we've seen ring land failures at that type of pressure, regardless of where the peak torque is.

Also interested to see what BunkerJ has to say.

To be honest, 24psi On the larger turbo is probably just as safe as running 22psi on peaky torque turbo of the stock n20, Yes 24psi your playing with fire buttttttttttttttt with the lag pushing torque peak 300-500rpms to the right on the bigger turbo (not proven numbers but very reasonable) itll be the same reliability almost as the stock turbo ON 22, but you can always get it retuned because 22psi on bigger turbo will generate much more hp than 22psi on our stock turbo. Id personally get my tune adjusted back to 22 on the bigger turbo, Regardless its still gonna be a huge gain because flow rate

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by IssaF32

To be honest, 24psi On the larger turbo is probably just as safe as running 22psi on peaky torque turbo of the stock n20, Yes 24psi your playing with fire buttttttttttttttt with the lag pushing torque peak 300-500rpms to the right on the bigger turbo (not proven numbers but very reasonable) itll be the same reliability almost as the stock turbo ON 22, but you can always get it retuned because 22psi on bigger turbo will generate much more hp than 22psi on our stock turbo. Id personally get my tune adjusted back to 22 on the bigger turbo, Regardless its still gonna be a huge gain because flow rate

Yah, can't deny the fact that bigger turbo will flow a ton better, and sound a lot cooler I'd like to see logs of an MHI/Dinan turbo on a BM3/PTF Stage 2 map. Bunker wya!

[ilivas]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

So on the same tune, say a PTF OTS map, the bigger turbo will be safe because it builds boost more gradually? Isn't it about the tune not the turbo? I understand that the size of the stock turbo makes it really peaky, but with an OTS map that's designed for the stock turbo, won't the power band be just as peaky?

I would probably agree with you here. As long as the stock turbo isn’t out of the efficiency range, it shouldn’t make a difference.

[ilivas]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

I agree with the idea that going with a bigger turbo and tuning to shift the torque and power curves over to the right (incidentally introducing a bit of lag down low), so they peak closer to redline rather than down low in the rev range like they do stock, will be safer for the engine. I also understand that the stock rods in our engines can fail if you push too much boost on the stock turbo because it gets so peaky on the low end, and all that low rpm torque can bend or snap a rod. I get all that. I understand flow rates and why the stock power band looks like it does. What I'm tentatively questioning about what you said is the premise that by just bolting on a bigger turbo (MHI, Dinan, whatever) you will shift that power band. The OTS maps are designed for the stock turbos, so I would imagine that running a bigger turbo on an OTS map won't substantially move the power band to the right, as the tune is designed with the flow rates etc. of the stock turbo in mind. Like I said, I could be wrong, but that's just what I'm thinking.

Also, I don't know that you'll make more boost pressure by running the same tune with a bigger turbo. The target boost will stay the same and the MAP will still recognize when you hit target and keep you there and ideally won't let you go over. I don't think just bolting on a bigger turbo will instantly make more psi. Boost pressure is in the tune, not the turbo, is basically what I'm thinking. That's not to say you won't hit the target more easily with the bigger turbo, as it'll be working much less hard than the stock one to hit 22psi or whatever, but I still don't think just a bigger turbo without being tuned for it will increase boots pressure.

I haven’t tuned one of these cars but with other cars, I’ve seen two types of ways for software to control boost. It hits a target boost at XXX rpm like you said, or every rpm is assigned a numerical value kind of like a gain knob in relation to the wastegate duty cycle. Like 30% WGDC equates to XX boost at YYYY RPM.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by ilivas

I haven’t tuned one of these cars but with other cars, I’ve seen two types of ways for software to control boost. It hits a target boost at XXX rpm like you said, or every rpm is assigned a numerical value kind of like a gain knob in relation to the wastegate duty cycle. Like 30% WGDC equates to XX boost at YYYY RPM.

I believe PTF uses the former, setting a boost target at XXXX rpm. Also found this tidbit on MHI's website about making power with a bigger turbo:

We've found this turbo makes noticeable torque and horsepower gains - 20% across the board - even on a stock car without more boost! How can you make more power with the same level of boost? Easy! You use a higher flow-rate turbo, which can handle a larger air mass at the same PSI

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Exhaust/...-F22-228i.html

What I gleaned from this is that they too, would agree that the extra power (assuming same tune) comes from the larger turbo flowing larger volumes of air than the stock turbo, at significantly cooler temperatures (that little turbo spinning as fast as it can generates a lot of heat, which is eliminated by a bigger turbo). They also mentioned 20% gains without increasing boost.

So, issaf32, I very respectfully am gonna stick to my original statement that just the larger turbo won't increase boost. You might pick up a half a psi or something but I'm not counting that lol. The benefit I think is that you flow a lot more air, quantitatively, at the same pressure or boost level, thus making more power.

[BunkerJ]

When you're talking about the safety of the engine, we have two concerns: throwing a rod (as a result from a broken rod bolt) and blowing the piston ring. The former is going to happen when either car is operating at a high, consistent power delivery (Track use) and the torque destroys the hot, weakened bolts. We aren't sure how much the stock bolts could take from use just on a strip or street use, but I'd garner to say that it's within 100lbs of the track cars that pushed 350 and threw rods left and right. The other is due to too high of pressure in the cylinder. We've had what, two guys now that have overboosted (JB4) into the 25 range and rings in one or multiple cylinders were destroyed.

You have to be sure you differentiate between lb/min and psi here. Pressure is pressure. 22psi in a small turbo and 22psi in a large turbo both exert the same amount force here. Now the difference in flow rate or CFM, is the difference. At 22psi, the smaller turbo could be pushing only a measly 30lb/min of air and fall on its face in the higher RPM band due to a low air velocity and not being able to keep up with requirements of the car. To make up for this, you can spin the turbo faster to increase PSI and hope to push more air into the cylinders, but as you push it out of its efficiency range, the charged air temp rises and you lose density and overall air volume. On a bigger turbo pushing 22psi, you could be pushing 50 lb/min and thus be making more power due to a higher volume of air. The deficiencies of the smaller turbo become advantages of the big turbo, just like how the advantages of the smaller turbo become the disadvantage of the bigger turbo.

So, rjdnyy224 , your last statement is correct that a larger turbo here is delivering more consistent power in the higher RPM range. Does it shift the power curve at all? Depends on the turbo. MHI/Dinan and similar will likely not shift it. They are "bigger" turbos, but not like what you'd think. They're still Twinscroll and spin up just as quick as the stock turbo, it just operates more efficiently in the top end. Swapping in this turbo isn't going to change your boost on the same tune, as I've already logged this and there are no differences there. Hunter and I have also seen this difference on the street. Back when we were rocking the same parts and tune, I had my turbo replaced with MHI. I initially thought it was generating more lag but turned out to just be an adaptation thing. We later (safely and legally) raced each other from I think a 40 roll. He still took off ahead in the beginning, but I'm going to say that it was from AWD + some quick honking ; however, the entire way up was me creeping up on him and by 90-100, I was eclipsing him. Now, his AWD contributed to that factor as well but my creep wasn't that grand before in previous races.

So, I think the only other point I saw in here was regarding the torque curve. In the end, you're only going to want to shift it if you're putting in a turbo that spools quicker and making bigger numbers. BM3 thankfully has a reduction in boost by gear, and that would easily solve it. You could work with your tuner to shift it also but the turbo itself isn't going to shift it until you get to a bigger one (and I mean much bigger).

Also, the MHI turbo is rated for 32psi but good luck, have fun.

I think that's it. Please tell me if I missed something. It's 7:30 and I'm still drinking my first cup of Joe for the day.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Clemy

Like I said I don't have logs of it boosting at 30psi but I have seen my boost gauge run to 29-30psi wen the app was open. It wasn't constant boost at 30 but it's peaked to 30.

Well, it's imperative that you get a log supporting that because until then, you're going against all known results. I'm not going to 100% doubt you and deny the possibility but without evidence, it's hard to tell and even then, it can still remain questionable. If you simply saw it on the app, it was likely a blip in the system. JB4 and other piggyback aren't delivering exact DME results, so now you have to rely upon the voltage going through a wire AND the piggyback hardware AND firmware AND recording software vs. a flash, which is relying on the DME's results and only skewing would be based on the interpretation through the software.

[Clemy]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Well, it's imperative that you get a log supporting that because until then, you're going against all known results. I'm not going to 100% doubt you and deny the possibility but without evidence, it's hard to tell and even then, it can still remain questionable. If you simply saw it on the app, it was likely a blip in the system. JB4 and other piggyback aren't delivering exact DME results, so now you have to rely upon the voltage going through a wire AND the piggyback hardware AND firmware AND recording software vs. a flash, which is relying on the DME's results and only skewing would be based on the interpretation through the software.

Yeah unfortunately that won't be possible now as the car has been sold. Upgraded to b48 now and new struggles begin

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by Clemy

Yeah unfortunately that won't be possible now as the car has been sold. Upgraded to b48 now and new struggles begin

Ah, well congrats on the upgrade.

Unfortunately, we'll have discard that 30psi capability at this time. While I don't doubt that you saw 30 pop up on the app, it was just a glitch. I've had a similar one occur on the Dinan Sport+ where it read 29psi as a peak.

Good luck on the B48.

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

When you're talking about the safety of the engine, we have two concerns: throwing a rod (as a result from a broken rod bolt) and blowing the piston ring. The former is going to happen when either car is operating at a high, consistent power delivery (Track use) and the torque destroys the hot, weakened bolts. We aren't sure how much the stock bolts could take from use just on a strip or street use, but I'd garner to say that it's within 100lbs of the track cars that pushed 350 and threw rods left and right. The other is due to too high of pressure in the cylinder. We've had what, two guys now that have overboosted (JB4) into the 25 range and rings in one or multiple cylinders were destroyed.

You have to be sure you differentiate between lb/min and psi here. Pressure is pressure. 22psi in a small turbo and 22psi in a large turbo both exert the same amount force here. Now the difference in flow rate or CFM, is the difference. At 22psi, the smaller turbo could be pushing only a measly 30lb/min of air and fall on its face in the higher RPM band due to a low air velocity and not being able to keep up with requirements of the car. To make up for this, you can spin the turbo faster to increase PSI and hope to push more air into the cylinders, but as you push it out of its efficiency range, the charged air temp rises and you lose density and overall air volume. On a bigger turbo pushing 22psi, you could be pushing 50 lb/min and thus be making more power due to a higher volume of air. The deficiencies of the smaller turbo become advantages of the big turbo, just like how the advantages of the smaller turbo become the disadvantage of the bigger turbo.

So, rjdnyy224 , your last statement is correct that a larger turbo here is delivering more consistent power in the higher RPM range. Does it shift the power curve at all? Depends on the turbo. MHI/Dinan and similar will likely not shift it. They are "bigger" turbos, but not like what you'd think. They're still Twinscroll and spin up just as quick as the stock turbo, it just operates more efficiently in the top end. Swapping in this turbo isn't going to change your boost on the same tune, as I've already logged this and there are no differences there. Hunter and I have also seen this difference on the street. Back when we were rocking the same parts and tune, I had my turbo replaced with MHI. I initially thought it was generating more lag but turned out to just be an adaptation thing. We later (safely and legally) raced each other from I think a 40 roll. He still took off ahead in the beginning, but I'm going to say that it was from AWD + some quick honking ; however, the entire way up was me creeping up on him and by 90-100, I was eclipsing him. Now, his AWD contributed to that factor as well but my creep wasn't that grand before in previous races.

So, I think the only other point I saw in here was regarding the torque curve. In the end, you're only going to want to shift it if you're putting in a turbo that spools quicker and making bigger numbers. BM3 thankfully has a reduction in boost by gear, and that would easily solve it. You could work with your tuner to shift it also but the turbo itself isn't going to shift it until you get to a bigger one (and I mean much bigger).

Also, the MHI turbo is rated for 32psi but good luck, have fun.

I think that's it. Please tell me if I missed something. It's 7:30 and I'm still drinking my first cup of Joe for the day.

So 'bigger' turbo, MHI/Dinan, which is what we were talking about in the first place, won't make more boost on the same tune, and won't significantly shift the power curve, it will just flow better, push more air (by volume not pressure) into the cylinders... It will also remain efficient at higher rpms. All that meaning it won't practically be any safer than the stock turbo. Right?

So what kind of power increase do you think you'd see going from stock to MHI sticking with BM3 OTS Stg. 2? It sounds like it won't be all that much.

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

So 'bigger' turbo, MHI/Dinan, which is what we were talking about in the first place, won't make more boost on the same tune, and won't significantly shift the power curve, it will just flow better, push more air (by volume not pressure) into the cylinders... It will also remain efficient at higher rpms. All that meaning it won't practically be any safer than the stock turbo. Right?

So what kind of power increase do you think you'd see going from stock to MHI sticking with BM3 OTS Stg. 2? It sounds like it won't be all that much.

Yes, this doesn't affect the safety other than not stressing out a stock turbo. If we're talking about just OTS, then you're not going to see a change in peak so much as you will see a big bump in power in the top end. If my stock turbo peaks at 23psi early on and drops to 19psi early on, then you can imagine that power curve. Now, enter MHI/Dinan, and you're making 23psi AND 22-23psi in the top end, thus keeping your power up. The bigger turbos here are to keep power more than it is to gain a increase in peak power (on OTS Maps)

[rjd_F30]

Originally Posted by BunkerJ

Yes, this doesn't affect the safety other than not stressing out a stock turbo. If we're talking about just OTS, then you're not going to see a change in peak so much as you will see a big bump in power in the top end. If my stock turbo peaks at 23psi early on and drops to 19psi early on, then you can imagine that power curve. Now, enter MHI/Dinan, and you're making 23psi AND 22-23psi in the top end, thus keeping your power up. The bigger turbos here are to keep power more than it is to gain a increase in peak power (on OTS Maps)

Okay that makes sense, and you answered my next question, which was what are the benefits, and it's to fill in that drop off in power up top, or to just keep pulling to redline simply. All makes sense now

So, having experienced the transition first hand, is the MHI's ability to keep up higher in the revs something you can notice easily? I know you mentioned that you started pulling on a stock turbo car on the big end, but is it something you'll notice easily, feel wise, during pulls, or is it something you'll only see in dyno graphs?

[BunkerJ]

Originally Posted by rjdnyy224

Okay that makes sense, and you answered my next question, which was what are the benefits, and it's to fill in that drop off in power up top, or to just keep pulling to redline simply. All makes sense now

So, having experienced the transition first hand, is the MHI's ability to keep up higher in the revs something you can notice easily? I know you mentioned that you started pulling on a stock turbo car on the big end, but is it something you'll notice easily, feel wise, during pulls, or is it something you'll only see in dyno graphs?

You will see it for sure when you're in that top end but only with a point of reference, to be honest. Sure, you might be able to "feel" that it's not running out of breath at the top but having a car next to you that the only difference is turbo and AWD, it amplifies that. It would be even better if it had a tune to specifically take advantage of the bigger turbo.