[kdog_x]

The writeup at the other link is complete and added to my first post. Hopefully that will help anyone deciding if they should (or shouldn't) try to complete this repair. The total came to $462 (parts only). I would imagine more of the internal parts will become available in the next year or two as more local trans shops start repairing these cases.

Let me know how my writeup looks or if anything needs clarification. It's really not a bad job, especially if you have a couple specialty tools and more time than money lol

[adshady]

Hi kdog_x,

Great work, realy apreciate.

I have got a question about draining the ATC35L. Do I need to remove it ? I see that it has a fill plug but not a drain plug...but just a tight pipe. Do no know how to train use it .?

Tks

[kdog_x]

Originally Posted by adshady

Hi kdog_x,

Great work, realy apreciate.

I have got a question about draining the ATC35L. Do I need to remove it ? I see that it has a fill plug but not a drain plug...but just a tight pipe. Do no know how to train use it .?

Tks

I believe the standard procedure is to remove it and flip it upside down, although it technically has "lifetime" fluid according to bmw.

A few people have claimed they have drained it with a very small tube and one of those fluid extractors, though I have never attempted this myself.

[perryo91]

What are the symptoms of having transfer case issues? Just so I can keep an eye out.

Thanks for all the details!

[kdog_x]

It was subtle at first, felt like it was shifting a little off. I thought maybe the trans was starting to slip. Then when the output shaft completely sheared the car was FWD only, at that point it barely drives, shifts hard, and it dropped into neutral when turning.

[adshady]

Originally Posted by kdog_x

I believe the standard procedure is to remove it and flip it upside down, although it technically has "lifetime" fluid according to bmw.

A few people have claimed they have drained it with a very small tube and one of those fluid extractors, though I have never attempted this myself.

Thanks for your response.

Is it easy to remove it ? do you have a link for a video or a DIY ?

Best,

Adel

[kdog_x]

Originally Posted by adshady

Thanks for your response.

Is it easy to remove it ? do you have a link for a video or a DIY ?

Best,

Adel

I did it myself on jackstands, so it's not that bad if you're used to wrenching. If you can't change your brakes, don't start with this project. I would suggest getting the Bentley manual for full instructions / torque specs / etc. though. There's a ton of covers that need to be removed, and you have to remove the full exhaust and drive shafts. BMW likes to put the occassional tamper proof torx under there as well, so a full set of those is a necessity.

I'd count on it taking a full 2 days for removal and install. Sourcing the Weicon anti-seize that is supposed to go on the shaft should be done in advance too since its hard to cone by in the states.

[adshady]

Originally Posted by kdog_x

I did it myself on jackstands, so it's not that bad if you're used to wrenching. If you can't change your brakes, don't start with this project. I would suggest getting the Bentley manual for full instructions / torque specs / etc. though. There's a ton of covers that need to be removed, and you have to remove the full exhaust and drive shafts. BMW likes to put the occassional tamper proof torx under there as well, so a full set of those is a necessity.

I'd count on it taking a full 2 days for removal and install. Sourcing the Weicon anti-seize that is supposed to go on the shaft should be done in advance too since its hard to cone by in the states.

Thanks for the information.

I found this tutorial https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...r-box/KRNvrCLU it is the same on ISTA+. It's not suffisante I think.

I Can change my brakes and lot of things, but I think that i need to go under the car to see realize the tools I need to have the day D

If you find any detailed documentation or video, don't hesitate to post it

[n00bkiller944]

Interesting this is very similar to the collar sleeve problem I used to fix all the time in Volvo AWD systems. Great find!

[Mike Petersen]

Great write up, and great work.

I just experienced this failure and wanted to share the info in case it helps others. I have a 2015 328d xdrive. My son was driving a vehicle cross country and it failed 1500 miles from home (ouch). He was able to limp the car to the nearest BMW dealership in Schenectady New York, it was Keller BMW. They did a great job taking care of the car immediately.

This failure happened after 15 hours of driving on the normal highway conditions. Nothing abnormal… The car indicated "Engine malfunction" which is a garbage can term that could be just about anything. The car would lurch on acceleration. I initially thought it might be a bad secondary fuel pump; fortunately the front wheel drive stayed active and allowed him to limp to the dealership.

Apparently, there is a recent recall on this part from BMW. While our car was out of warranty BMW graciously offered to replace the part for free, even covering a rental car for the two days it was out of service given we were traveling.

As this spline should be a hardend part, failures should be incredibly rare to non existent. I would assume somewhere in the manufacturing process before forging and/or the heating/quenching process that is done during the manufacturing was not properly done leading to splines that are significantly softer than the engineering spec.

According to the service advisor at BMW, they did replace my transfer case with the updated part number, suggesting that BMW has rectified the problem.