08-18-2018, 01:57 PM | #1 |
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DIY brake job hard on the F30?
I am not sure which axle or both but brakes need to be replaced. Is this something you guys think is much cheaper DIY or just take to an Indy? I think the Indy shop quoted me $500 per axle and dealer $600 per axle.
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08-18-2018, 02:46 PM | #3 |
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Pads are easier than disks. Disks need more tools, but neither is hard. Be sure to crack open the reservoir cap before pressing the pistons back into the caliper and wrap towels around the reservoir in case of overflow. I tend to replace the sensors at the same time, even if they haven't tripped. I tend to replace disks every other pad replacement, unless they feel rough or seem damaged.
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08-18-2018, 03:03 PM | #4 |
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It's very easy, the second or third time you do it. You're best off finding a friend, preferably who'll work for beer, who knows what he's doing to guide you through the first time. If you change the rotors, which you probably should as I doubt you have the gear to resurface them, you can figure $300 per axle for OEM grade.
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08-22-2018, 06:41 PM | #6 |
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Rockauto.com is a great source for parts. Low prices and fast service, great selection. Just pick parts for daily driver or premium.
As for doing the work, there are many videos on the internet to walk you thru the process. If its your first set of pads the rotors can probably wait until the next change. That is if they are not gouged. I agree with Rak299. Also agree on sensor wires. You only need 1 sensor wire per axle. |
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08-22-2018, 07:30 PM | #7 |
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Brake jobs are very very easy. I would buy from fcp euro for lifetime warranty.
Also good to get a set of hex and torx bits plus a adjustable head ratchet
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08-23-2018, 09:40 PM | #8 |
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i just replaced pads and rotors. Pads, sensors, stainless rotor screws, caliper bolts and brake paste from FCP Euro. Rotors from R1 Concepts.
The rear caliper bolts were the most difficult to re-torque as there isn’t much room but I managed. It took me roughly 30 minutes per once I had the car on stands and the wheels off. Make sure you release the parking brake before you take off the rear rotors I couldn’t understand why they wouldnt just pull off after a tap with a hammer like the fronts? |
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08-24-2018, 08:09 AM | #9 |
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08-24-2018, 10:30 AM | #10 | |
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Quote:
Just make sure you have the right tools. For the non-performance calipers, I believe the bolt is an odd size that my normal socket set did not have. |
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08-24-2018, 10:51 AM | #11 |
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08-29-2018, 12:57 PM | #14 |
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I've got a 2014 F34 (GT) 335 with M-Sport. I don't have the painted M calipers, so I presume my rotors are the same as the standard size brakes, correct? Also, my OEM rotors are *not* drilled/dimple/slotted.
My cost-free maintenance period just ended, so now it's on me to replace the pads/rotors. I had one wheel off for 2.5hr yesterday, and I could not get the caliper pins out. I didn't have the right tool for the job, and I was trying to use a junk screwdriver or a nail to tap it out... but it wouldn't budge at all. What tool have you all used to remove these pins, and tap them back in place? Pin pusher/punch/etc? What is the diameter of the tool? I'd like to order something and keep it with the rest of my wheel/brake tools. Thanks! Last edited by DrPhant0m; 08-31-2018 at 09:27 AM.. |
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08-29-2018, 03:50 PM | #17 |
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thats for a 328 with single piston front
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10-02-2018, 08:29 AM | #19 |
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Thanks. I did all 4 yesterday and installed upgraded rotors as well. Simple job except on the rear I forgot I had the parking brake set and couldn't figure out why I couldn't get the rotor off easier-oops. Any simple job. Thanks again.
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