[accs]

So I just changed my n55 oil thermostat gasket and wanted to bleed the cooling system but can’t seem to get the process started.

Steps I’ve used are: key in pocket, accessory mode, heating temp max, fan speed lowest, press down on accelerator for 10+ seconds. I’ve tried variations on the steps including low beam on/off, sport mode, air recirculation on/off, door open/closed, seatbelt on/off but it just refuses to start.

Went for a 40km drive yesterday and the car runs fine, no check engine lights or errors, coolant temperature is normal.

Does anyone have similar experiences or suggestions for what to try to get the bleed process going?

[F32Fleet]

Are you staying in the car with the driver's door closed?

[accs]

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

Are you staying in the car with the driver's door closed?

Yep, also tried seatbelt on and off.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by accs

Yep, also tried seatbelt on and off.

I wonder if will fail if the battery has insufficient charge. I don't know what to tell you.

[sspade]

Here is the process for F30, very recently used it myself for a hundred thousand mile coolant drain/ refill. I ran it twice out of paranoia and still had to add some over the next couple drive cycles. Presented with the low coolant message upon cold start, topped off and good to go.


Switch the ignition on.

Switch on low-beam headlight and the hazard-warning lights.

Make sure the driving experience switch is not in the ECO PRO switch position.

Adjust the heating to maximum temperature and adjust the blower to the lowest level.

Floor the accelerator pedal and hold for 10 s.

The automatic cooling system bleeding routine will be initiated.

The engine must not be started.

The electric coolant pump is enabled.

Approx. 12 min. after starting the cooling system bleeding routine, the electric coolant pump will automatically be switched off and the cooling system bleeding routine is completed.

Adjust the filling level in the coolant expansion tank to the maximum mark.

[accs]

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

I wonder if will fail if the battery has insufficient charge. I don't know what to tell you.

Maybe this is it... I'll give it another go after I get some juice in the battery following a longer drive.

Originally Posted by sspade

Here is the process for F30, very recently used it myself for a hundred thousand mile coolant drain/ refill. I ran it twice out of paranoia and still had to add some over the next couple drive cycles. Presented with the low coolant message upon cold start, topped off and good to go.


Switch the ignition on.

Switch on low-beam headlight and the hazard-warning lights.

Make sure the driving experience switch is not in the ECO PRO switch position.

Adjust the heating to maximum temperature and adjust the blower to the lowest level.

Floor the accelerator pedal and hold for 10 s.

The automatic cooling system bleeding routine will be initiated.

The engine must not be started.

The electric coolant pump is enabled.

Approx. 12 min. after starting the cooling system bleeding routine, the electric coolant pump will automatically be switched off and the cooling system bleeding routine is completed.

Adjust the filling level in the coolant expansion tank to the maximum mark.

Haven't tried with the hazard warning lights on yet. Will report back if that works.

[Revoltos]

You dont need to put the hazards on. Just keep your key in the centre console near the reciever. Dont touch any function of the car or open or closing the doors/bonnet/boot. Use a battery maintainer as the process wont start if your battery voltage is low.

[Shonky]

I'm trying to complete this on a B48 F31 320i. I'm expecting to see something on the dash (newtis has a video showing it done on a 2 series).

I've done it by the book including a battery charger. ie

Ctek MXS5.0 connected under hood.
Tried with and without hood open
28C on both controls
Fan on lowest bar
Ignition on
Hazards and low beam on
Pressed Park (already in Park)
Changed to Sport+ - defaults to Comfort so shouldn't need to
Pushed accelerator all the way to floor (past the click which I presume is some kind of WOT or kickdown type switch?)

I hear no noises indicating any process is occurring. I started the car once after the 10 second pedal thing and it didn't idle at 1200rpm either.

Should it display on the instrument cluster?

Did you get this working?

[Shonky]

Hmm... Well I did try the process again and started the engine. It did sit about 1200rpm (maybe slightly lower). I did the 3000rpm thing 5 times and let it idle. That seems to be somewhat an arbitrary thing to do. I found an old version of the same TIS instruction saying 3k rpm 3 times then wait until 5 minutes in and repeat.

Then right on about 11 minutes idle dropped to the normal 7-800. So I guess it did actually work but it would be good if there was some feedback on the dash. It should be able to do the 3k rpm thing itself too really.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by Shonky

I'm trying to complete this on a B48 F31 320i. I'm expecting to see something on the dash (newtis has a video showing it done on a 2 series).

I've done it by the book including a battery charger. ie

Ctek MXS5.0 connected under hood.
Tried with and without hood open
28C on both controls
Fan on lowest bar
Ignition on
Hazards and low beam on
Pressed Park (already in Park)
Changed to Sport+ - defaults to Comfort so shouldn't need to
Pushed accelerator all the way to floor (past the click which I presume is some kind of WOT or kickdown type switch?)

I hear no noises indicating any process is occurring. I started the car once after the 10 second pedal thing and it didn't idle at 1200rpm either.

Should it display on the instrument cluster?

Did you get this working?

B-series engines do not have electric water pump.

[Mr.Smartepants]

Originally Posted by F32Fleet

B-series engines do not have electric water pump.

Yes they do. At least my F34 320i B48 engine does (Auxiliary water pump, part #11518637953).

I just did this procedure myself and it worked fine.
The electric pump is very quiet and sounds a little like varying tones like what you'd hear during an ear test. Make sure your radio/music is off so you can hear the pump running.
The battery needs to be on a full charge, or connected to a wall charger because the process won't start if the battery voltage is too low.
Don't open/close windows/doors/etc.

Here's what I did.

Push the ignition switch without pressing the clutch (accessory mode).

Left the headlight switch in "auto" (no hazard lights).

Left the driving experience mode in "comfort" (switch is NOT in the ECO PRO switch position).

Turn off the auto climate control (important!), and adjust the heating to maximum temperature (28C) and adjust the fan to the lowest level.

Floor the accelerator pedal and hold for 10 s.

The automatic cooling system bleeding routine will be initiated. The electric coolant pump is enabled.

The engine will NOT start.
Process lasts for 8-12 minutes and when finished the tones will stop and the car will be VERY quiet. No notices on dash or screen before/during/after.
The engine bay can be open/closed (doesn't matter), and the coolant container caps can be open during the procedure to verify fluid circulating or to top up.

[F32Fleet]

Originally Posted by Mr.Smartepants

Yes they do. At least my F34 320i B48 engine does (Auxiliary water pump, part #11518637953).

I just did this procedure myself and it worked fine.
The electric pump is very quiet and sounds a little like varying tones like what you'd hear during an ear test. Make sure your radio/music is off so you can hear the pump running.
The battery needs to be on a full charge, or connected to a wall charger because the process won't start if the battery voltage is too low.
Don't open/close windows/doors/etc.

Here's what I did.

Push the ignition switch without pressing the clutch (accessory mode).

Left the headlight switch in "auto" (no hazard lights).

Left the driving experience mode in "comfort" (switch is NOT in the ECO PRO switch position).

Turn off the auto climate control (important!), and adjust the heating to maximum temperature (28C) and adjust the fan to the lowest level.

Floor the accelerator pedal and hold for 10 s.

The automatic cooling system bleeding routine will be initiated. The electric coolant pump is enabled.

The engine will NOT start.
Process lasts for 8-12 minutes and when finished the tones will stop and the car will be VERY quiet. No notices on dash or screen before/during/after.
The engine bay can be open/closed (doesn't matter), and the coolant container caps can be open during the procedure to verify fluid circulating or to top up.

Ah yes. I was thinking of the primary engine coolant pump.

[Shonky]

Yeah I couldn't get anything to "operate" but I had to start the engine and it did run at 1200rpm as expected. TIS specifies starting the engine too when bleeding the high temperature cooling system (ie not intercooler), it just does provide any real indication it's working.

Bleeding the high-temperature cooling system:

Remove vacuum filler device on coolant expansion tank for high temperature.
Open bleeder screw on coolant expansion tank for high temperature and shut again after approx. 10 s.
Adjust the coolant level in the coolant expansion tank for high temperature to maximum.
Shut the sealing cap on the coolant expansion tank for high temperature.
Connect battery charger.

Starting the high-temperature cooling system bleeding routine:

Switch the ignition on.
Secure vehicle against rolling away/driving off (apply parking brake and put in P in automatics).
Switch on low-beam headlights and hazard warning lights.
Check that driving experience switch is not set to ECO-PRO.
Set heating to maximum temperature and turn blower to lowest speed.
Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor.
Cooling system bleeding routine starts
Then start engine.
Increased idle speed of 1200 rpm is set.
After 1 minute, increased idle position (1200 rpm)

- Press on accelerator up to about 3000 rpm for 10 seconds.

- Idle for 10 s.

- Press on accelerator up to about 3000 rpm for 10 seconds.

- Idle for 10 s.

- Press on accelerator up to about 3000 rpm for 10 seconds.

- Idle for 10 s.

- Press on accelerator up to about 3000 rpm for 10 seconds.

- Idle position for 10 seconds.

- Press on accelerator up to about 3000 rpm for 10 seconds.

The high-temperature cooling system bleeding routine has finished approximately 11 minutes after having started the engine.
Engine speed drops to idle speed level.
Switch off engine.
Allow the engine to cool down.
Adjust the filling level in the high temperature coolant expansion tank to maximum.
Close the sealing cap of the coolant expansion tank for high temperature until it lines up with the arrows.

[Mr.Smartepants]

Wait, so the process I followed is NOT for the "hot" side but the intercooler only?
I'm so confused.

[Shonky]

Originally Posted by Mr.Smartepants

Wait, so the process I followed is NOT for the "hot" side but the intercooler only?
I'm so confused.

Seems like it:

Venting cooling system:

Remove the vacuum filler device from the coolant expansion tank for low temperature.
Adjust the coolant level in the coolant expansion tank for low temperature to the maximum level.
Close the sealing cap on the coolant expansion tank for low temperature.
Connect battery charger.
Starting the cooling system bleeding procedure:

Switch the ignition on.
Engage the parking brake.
Switch on low-beam headlights and hazard warning lights.
Check that driving experience switch is not set to ECO-PRO.
Set heating to maximum temperature and turn blower to lowest speed.
Press accelerator pedal for 10 seconds to floor.
Cooling system bleeding routine starts
The cooling system bleeding routine is terminated automatically after 11 minutes.
Adjust the filling level in the coolant expansion tank for low temperature to the maximum level.
Shut sealing cap .

The intercooler circuit would be electric only, but since the main engine coolant circuit has both mechanical and electrical pumps it needs the engine running to bleed properly.

[Mr.Smartepants]

Makes sense. I'm off to go bleed the hot side now...