[McLaren720s]

I’m getting my B14s installed in about 4 weeks and a shop just quoted me about 6 hours of labor and $800.

Does that sound about right?

[andino]

Sounds about right. Depending on your location anyways. I was quoted around that in SF, CA but I ended up just doing it myself. Took me about 6 hours to do myself but I was also doing my BBK at the same time.

[FaRKle!]

Does the quote include alignment?

[McLaren720s]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

Does the quote include alignment?

Yes, they said there is an alignment included for the first 1000 miles, but won’t be performed unless needed, as some coilovers do not automatically require alignment and this is to be evaluated after the suspension settles in a few days.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

Yes, they said there is an alignment included for the first 1000 miles, but won’t be performed unless needed, as some coilovers do not automatically require alignment and this is to be evaluated after the suspension settles in a few days.

With an alignment it seems believable to me (I don't know what market you're in), without an alignment the labor hours and price is too high IMO.

[theEZV]

That's ridiculous. Spring/Coilover install + alignment should run 500. This "BMW tax" is out of control. I was quoted 475 to install KW V1 + alignment from 2 shops in the area last year.

[McLaren720s]

Originally Posted by theEZV

That's ridiculous. Spring/Coilover install + alignment should run 500. This "BMW tax" is out of control. I was quoted 475 to install KW V1 + alignment from 2 shops in the area last year.

Interesting. I’ll try calling a couple other shops to see if I can get a better rate.

[McLaren720s]

Just called 2 more shops. One quoted me $850 and the other one $1100. Lol

[52172]

I got quoted 4 hrs labor plus alignment

[zinner]

The should certainly check the alignment after putting in new suspension. Coilovers need ride height to be set, but the alignment will probably not to be too out of spec if you keep the same ride height or close.


800 sounds reasonable to me. There is always someone who could get it done cheaper etc etc. Its the internet after all.

[McLaren720s]

Originally Posted by zinner

The should certainly check the alignment after putting in new suspension. Coilovers need ride height to be set, but the alignment will probably not to be too out of spec if you keep the same ride height or close.


800 sounds reasonable to me. There is always someone who could get it done cheaper etc etc. Its the internet after all.

The drop will be around 2 inches but the shop said that they want the car to settle for a few days before seeing if it need alignment

[oksymoroni]

Got quoted $600 + Alignment last year in the Chicago area.

[zinner]

TBH I am not sure what they can really adjust on the front without additional hardware, like camber/caster plates and/or ecentric bushings. The back they can adjust camber a bit, but the front really has little adjustment from what I understand about it.

[phoizgood415]

I was quoted $500 and I'm from the Bay Area which should be more on the expensive side so I think your quote is really high, albeit my quote doesnt include alignment.

[McLaren720s]

A shop quoted me $500 but they said they don’t work on BMWs nor have they done a coilover install in years so that makes me uneasy.

[quikM2]

You have xdrive. 6 hours labour is more than fair. And yes you will want an alignment whether it 'needs' it or not. Getting the most negative camber out of the fronts as possible as there isn't much there and then depending on how you like turn in feel and if you want to help the car rotate better you can actually dial the rear negative camber back closer to -1 - 1.25. closer balance will help the driving dynamics and help that back end. i did that based on a recommendation from Farkle when I put my dinan springs in and it makes a difference and feels way better than the stock oem alignment specs.

[McLaren720s]

Originally Posted by quikM2

You have xdrive. 6 hours labour is more than fair. And yes you will want an alignment whether it 'needs' it or not. Getting the most negative camber out of the fronts as possible as there isn't much there and then depending on how you like turn in feel and if you want to help the car rotate better you can actually dial the rear negative camber back closer to -1 - 1.25. closer balance will help the driving dynamics and help that back end. i did that based on a recommendation from Farkle when I put my dinan springs in and it makes a difference and feels way better than the stock oem alignment specs.

So should I ask the shop to get as much negative camber out of the front as possible and go -1 or -1.25 rear negative camber? Is this done during alignment or during coilover install?

[CrushJelly]

Front camber isn't adjustable.

All alignment adjustments are done post coilovers install.

[McLaren720s]

Originally Posted by Jahjaman

Front camber isn't adjustable.

All alignment adjustments are done post coilovers install.

But can they dial in negative camber for the rear during alignment?

[quikM2]

Originally Posted by McLaren720s

So should I ask the shop to get as much negative camber out of the front as possible and go -1 or -1.25 rear negative camber? Is this done during alignment or during coilover install?

Front camber: max negative (probably about -0.7deg each side)
Front toe: 0.03 to 0.1deg toe in each side
Rear camber: -1 to -1.25deg each side
Rear toe: 0.1 to 0.15deg toe in each side

Farkle's Explanation:

Front Camber: You want as much as possible so the front end grabs during cornering. BMW doesn't offer nearly enough, so max out what you can. M-cars come with around -1.5deg each side from the factory, so there's plenty to go.

Front Toe: BMW (and other mfgs) typically spec more toe than required so the car tracks straight when you take your hands off the wheel and for more straight light stability. When the toe is excessive however it hurts turn in response. Even at 0.03deg toe in each side the car tracks straight IME and turn in response is much quicker. Your car will fee much more nimble than before. You don't want to go too close to 0 or toe out though, because then the front end will want to "dance" around and will require more steering corrections. I made that mistake once when I tried having it aligned to 0.01deg in each side.

Rear Camber: The rear actually has a lot of adjustment available from the factory. The -1.5 to -2deg from the factory would make sense if the front camber were more negative, but is just out of balance when you're limited to -.7deg in the front. They do this so the rear has more grip and your car understeers. Going to -1deg in the rear will better balance the front to rear and allow the car to rotate better.

Rear Toe: Rear toe in will keep the car more stable on launching. I like it a bit higher than front toe, but not excessive.

[exE36M3]

FWIW, don't dwell too much on the cost - because on this forum, we are ALL over the globe. The labor rates in Northern California are from $150-$255/hour. So a 4 hour job can range from $600-$1020.

General rule of thumb is about 1 hour per wheel for most suspension work.
A LOT of shops will quote a "book" price, it's that safe number for them where maybe a master tech can do a job in 1 hour but the apprentice 3. So book comes in at 3. Most BMW indy shops tend to quote at the master rate because it's the owner and he knows his stuff.

It's already been said... but if the range is 4-6 hours for this job, just multiply the labor rate accordingly.

[kern417]

There has to be a shop or local enthusiast that'll do the work for less than $100 per hour. Here most indy shops are $75/hour. Even a regular tire shop can do it, our cars aren't that complex.