[winther1]

I absolutely love the look of the GTS tail lights on my 440i (Vland), but recently I am getting the occasional error message when using the right indicator. I haven't seen it from outside, but inside the car the indicator is blinking twice the speed. Turning off the signal and going again a couple of times usually sorts it until next time.
Anyone else had this issue and what was the solution? As far as I know, coding wasn't necessary with these lights.

[anielsen71]

Originally Posted by winther1

I absolutely love the look of the GTS tail lights on my 440i (Vland), but recently I am getting the occasional error message when using the right indicator. I haven't seen it from outside, but inside the car the indicator is blinking twice the speed. Turning off the signal and going again a couple of times usually sorts it until next time.
Anyone else had this issue and what was the solution? As far as I know, coding wasn't necessary with these lights.

Hmmmmm you can't start reporting errors as I has just ordered a set of the same taillights as you😄

[winther1]

Originally Posted by anielsen71

Hmmmmm you can't start reporting errors as I has just ordered a set of the same taillights as you😄

I seem to be part of a very small minority - I still wouldn't go for any other lights

[anielsen71]

Yea I know.
Still looking forward to get them😊

[Billfitz]

Were the lamps you replaced LED? If not you probably need to code.

[zatelli]

OP, the symptoms you've described, are related to hyperflashing.
As you may already know, LED bulbs require less wattage to operate vs regular bulbs. When LEDs are swapped in, this trips the CANBUS and triggers hyperflashing, which is your indicator signal blinking rapidly, to let the driver know that the corresponding bulb has blown. In the case of LEDs, the bulb is fine, however, the CANBUS expects a given power draw in Watts from the bulb for it to be considered "healthy". This is why error free LED bulbs have load resistors embedded into them, which will increase the power load, so that it won't trigger the CANBUS.
That said, I suspect that one of the load resistors mounted on the right tail light is bad. You can test the load resistor with an ohmmeter, before considering what the next step might (either have it fixed or replaced ). I suggest you touch base with the seller first .
Please, keep us posted

[Billfitz]

The reason why LEDs can cause errors is because they have higher resistance values than incandescent. When the car sends a warm/cold test pulse to an LED the high resistance is interpreted as no bulb. Various devices can be used to emulate the low resistance of an incandescent, but the right way to address the problem is to code the lamp for LED. That's a one click operation with Bimmercode. I can't imagine BMW using load resistors on LED bulbs. It's not like they don't know how to code their cars.

[winther1]

Thanks for the explanation. So do you think coding for LED with bimmercode will sort the issue? I just haven't heard of anyone needing to code the GTS taillights

[Billfitz]

There's only one way to find out. That's why I asked if the original lights were LED. If they were there shouldn't be a need to code. Hook up your Bimmercode and look at the tail light coding. It will tell you how they're set.

[winther1]

Originally Posted by Billfitz

There's only one way to find out. That's why I asked if the original lights were LED. If they were there shouldn't be a need to code. Hook up your Bimmercode and look at the tail light coding. It will tell you how they're set.

]

Sorry, no - originals were not LED (pre-lci). I will try the coding as if they were the LCI taillights

[sonicbimmer19]

Originally Posted by winther1

]

Sorry, no - originals were not LED (pre-lci). I will try the coding as if they were the LCI taillights

do you have updates on if coding fixed your problems?
I have 2014 f32, want to get the tail lights but I'll probably run into same issues as you given I'm pre-lci

[winther1]

I haven't had the issue for a while so didn't get around to it yet. If it comes back I will give it a try. Don't let this hold you back!

[fortythirtyfive]

Coding the values to LED and removing the warm/cold checks will fix this.

My F32 is also pre-lci however as I had retrofitted the lci's prior to the foleds I was fine, I even chopped off their extra baggage of a resistor (these are supplied to try and stop hyper flashing)

[sonicbimmer19]

Originally Posted by fortythirtyfive

Coding the values to LED and removing the warm/cold checks will fix this.

My F32 is also pre-lci however as I had retrofitted the lci's prior to the foleds I was fine, I even chopped off their extra baggage of a resistor (these are supplied to try and stop hyper flashing)

Okay, cool, thanks. Just have to get an adapter and Bimmercode, right?
Based on OP, may not even be necessary. But I want my car functioning properly in every aspect so I'll definitely code correctly.

[fortythirtyfive]

Originally Posted by sonicbimmer19

Okay, cool, thanks. Just have to get an adapter and Bimmercode, right?
Based on OP, may not even be necessary. But I want my car functioning properly in every aspect so I'll definitely code correctly.

Yeah bimmercode or e-sys.

Bimmercode is probably more user friendly and only needs something like a v-gate adapter, plus off the top of my head there may even be a section to guide you on what you need to do.

[sonicbimmer19]

Originally Posted by fortythirtyfive

Yeah bimmercode or e-sys.

Bimmercode is probably more user friendly and only needs something like a v-gate adapter, plus off the top of my head there may even be a section to guide you on what you need to do.

great thanks.

Tried to send you a private message but it says your inbox is full.
I'm trying to get the darn lights from Vland and my bank keeps rejecting transaction stating it is a transaction risk.
I assume it is due to the fact they might be overseas? did you have similar problems?

But also upon further googling, I also found that Vland literally has 3 similar websites and I'm just triple checking that I'm on a legit website?

I don't want to spend $600 on websites that my bank keeps rejecting as a transaction risk and not double check with someone.
Thanks!

https://www.vlandus.com/?gclid=Cj0KC...EaAjfQEALw_wcB

https://www.vland-official.com/colle...QaArT7EALw_wcB

https://vlandvip.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA...MaAqEcEALw_wcB

[Billfitz]

Your bank should not be involved in any on line transaction. For your protection only use PayPal. If the seller doesn't take PayPal they're not legit.

[5ninety]

Originally Posted by winther1

I absolutely love the look of the GTS tail lights on my 440i (Vland), but recently I am getting the occasional error message when using the right indicator. I haven't seen it from outside, but inside the car the indicator is blinking twice the speed. Turning off the signal and going again a couple of times usually sorts it until next time.
Anyone else had this issue and what was the solution? As far as I know, coding wasn't necessary with these lights.

Hey OP - Made an account just to reply. Don't know if this thread is dead but I had a similar issue on mine (just the right tail signal). The first 1-2 months wasn't too bad like you mentioned a few times I got some error codes/hyperflashing, but eventually It got really bad. I got errors all the time and eventually it stopped working. I went back and forth with VLAND quite a bit. They sent me a new resistor and even another unit to try but I was still getting errors. Based on the conversation I had with them apparently some of the units have a resistor issue that is giving some cars a problem. The 2nd set they gave me supposedly had "fixed" the resistor issue but I was still seeing the occasional error and I gave up on them.

Also, in my case I tried to keep using them even when the errors were getting bad. I was going back and forth with them over the winter and I still had to drive (It was cold outside so I didnt want to keep swapping the OEMs). The car has an internal counter for number of Errors/Shorts that occur. If it surpasses the counter it will lock out power to the taillights entirely I guess as a safety feature. I had to get that coded to restore power which was extra effort so just be aware of that.

In the end I'm not sure why only a small handful of people are having this issue. Like I mentioned the 2nd set was supposed to have the "fixed" resistors on it but still no luck for me. I found another guy locally with the same year model as me (2017) and didnt have any issues. When I was going through all this in 2021 I couldnt find any posts related to it (Maybe 1?) so I thought I was just extra special Wondering did the issue get resolved for you?

[Billfitz]

Resistors are a half-assed method of preventing errors with LEDs. Coding is the right way.

[Squibby1996]

I found mine would do that when I unlocked the car, if I didn't start the engine before the welcome lights went out it would do this, use BimmerCode to either code led tails or extend the welcome light duration

[bmwf32]

Originally Posted by fortythirtyfive

Coding the values to LED and removing the warm/cold checks will fix this.

My F32 is also pre-lci however as I had retrofitted the lci's prior to the foleds I was fine, I even chopped off their extra baggage of a resistor (these are supplied to try and stop hyper flashing)

It seems as this warm/cold has either been removed from the bimmercode app or that it is not in the rear electronic module for the 4 series? Because I am having this exact same issue on my 2013 bmw f32 with the Vland oled taillight.

I have tried to code it and still am having the same issue. I coded it with the lci retrofit option within the app ??? Has any1 overcome this issue?

[Billfitz]

Bimmercode no longer has separate coding lines for warm check/cold check and LED/bulb, other than in expert mode. They combined all three into a one click option, LED Conversion. LCI taillights is something else entirely.