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      10-03-2021, 01:32 PM   #1
madmortar
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Battery Replacement Advice

Looking to replace my battery but have no idea where to start.
Do I look at my current battery and just buy the same thing?

Also, can either Bimmercode or Bimmerlink help me code the battery? What is the difference between the two?

2013 328i msport auto.
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      10-03-2021, 07:24 PM   #2
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BimmerLink is for diagnostics (vs. coding/customizing features) & will allow you to register the new battery. https://www.bimmerlink.app/

You don't need a battery from BMW, but the specs should be the similar/close.
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      10-03-2021, 07:25 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA View Post
BimmerLink is for diagnostics (vs. coding/customizing features) & will allow you to register the new battery. https://www.bimmerlink.app/

You don't need a battery from BMW, but the specs should be the similar/close.
Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA View Post
BimmerLink is for diagnostics (vs. coding/customizing features) & will allow you to register the new battery. https://www.bimmerlink.app/

You don't need a battery from BMW, but the specs should be the similar/close.
Can I register with bimmercode?
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      10-03-2021, 07:30 PM   #4
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It's as easy for you to look at BimmerCode features as it is for me, but, apparently you need BimmerLink. From the BimmerCode site:
Battery type
The type and capacity of the 12 V battery. Please note that this value must only be modified if the battery in the car has been replaced. After coding, the battery replacement has to be registered using “BimmerLink” additionally.
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      10-03-2021, 07:34 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by John in VA View Post
It's as easy for you to look at BimmerCode features as it is for me, but, apparently you need BimmerLink. From the BimmerCode site:
Battery type
The type and capacity of the 12 V battery. Please note that this value must only be modified if the battery in the car has been replaced. After coding, the battery replacement has to be registered using “BimmerLink” additionally.
Thank you. Bimmerlink it is.
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      10-04-2021, 01:10 AM   #6
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Not if you change the type and/or capacity of the battery, then you need to code first with Bimmercode and then register with Bimmerlink. If you go for a straight swap, then Bimmerlink alone is enough.
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      10-04-2021, 03:03 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimmert View Post
Not if you change the type and/or capacity of the battery, then you need to code first with Bimmercode and then register with Bimmerlink. If you go for a straight swap, then Bimmerlink alone is enough.
Thanks. Think I am looking to keep it as simple as possible and find direct replacement.
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      10-04-2021, 04:41 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmortar View Post
Looking to replace my battery but have no idea where to start.
https://www.google.com/search?channe...W+328i+battery
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      10-04-2021, 05:17 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by madmortar View Post
Looking to replace my battery but have no idea where to start.
https://www.google.com/search?channe...W+328i+battery
Guys, yes fully aware of Google being a search engine I can utilize.

Sorry, let me be more clear. I suppose I was looking for advice on what members on here have done and shared their experience buying a new battery. Vendors you recommend, deals you have seen, install errors to avoid. Etc.

But I think I'm set.
Find a cheap replacement via Google and use bimmerlink to register
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      10-04-2021, 06:56 PM   #10
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Recommend this battery

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...erm=battery+h8

Specifications
Amp Hour:
95.0 Ah

Cold Cranking Amperage:
900 A
Cranking Amperage:
1000 A

You need to know the amp hours to properly program, most vendors don't provide it. I've used this one in many of my own cars with great success. They usually have some promo codes you can use with it.

Anyone who does remote coding can program it for you.
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      10-04-2021, 08:52 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmortar View Post
Find a cheap replacement via Google and use bimmerlink to register
Find the least expensive AGM of the correct size that has the same or greater Ah rating as the original. Lead acid batteries are not suitable, even if they're the same size. I wouldn't take advice from anyone who went to dealer for a battery, or paid a dealer to register it.
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      10-05-2021, 06:12 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
Find the least expensive AGM of the correct size that has the same or greater Ah rating as the original. Lead acid batteries are not suitable, even if they're the same size. I wouldn't take advice from anyone who went to dealer for a battery, or paid a dealer to register it.
From a UK perspective... my original battery was over 10-years old, but have had it replaced ahead of winter. I looked at getting an aftermarket AGM and was investigating how to register it myself. (I don't code or have any software).

Got a price from my dealer for an OEM battery, have them fit and register, taking responsibility for me driving away all sorted. I was surprised at the price. I paid Ł231,30 (sterling), including tax. Wasn't worth the hassle of getting a battery, fitting myself, battery disposal and sorting out how I'd register it.
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      10-05-2021, 07:41 AM   #13
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Things are very different in the US. The installed and registered price of a battery at a dealership averages $500. The dealer charge for registration can be as much as $150, depending on how straight the road is to their location, and therefore from how far off they can see you coming.

When I exercised due diligence after becoming a BMW owner and saw that, and found out that for that same $150 I could buy a Foxwell NT510 that would register a new battery and a whole lot more, I bought one. I haven't used it to register a battery yet, but it's still saved me at least $500 by eliminating the need to go to a dealer for other diagnostic and repair issues.

The average cost for a battery at auto supply stores in the US is $200. Many of those stores will register the battery at no charge. Worst case you might need to get Bimmerlink, but $40 is a lot less than $150, not to mention being able to do your own diagnostics that stealerships also charge $150 a pop for.
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      10-05-2021, 08:48 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RemoteBimmer View Post
Recommend this battery

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...erm=battery+h8

Specifications
Amp Hour:
95.0 Ah

Cold Cranking Amperage:
900 A
Cranking Amperage:
1000 A

You need to know the amp hours to properly program, most vendors don't provide it. I've used this one in many of my own cars with great success. They usually have some promo codes you can use with it.

Anyone who does remote coding can program it for you.
Thank you!
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      10-05-2021, 08:54 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Billfitz View Post
The average cost for a battery at auto supply stores in the US is $200. Many of those stores will register the battery at no charge.
Around here the auto parts stores will also dispose of the battery too when you buy one from them. Some places I've lived will do it for free, where I live now I think there is a mandatory fee, but it's only around $20. You still come out WAY ahead of a dealership.

You don't even have to give them the old battery on the spot. I've bought a battery before, taken it home, swapped it with the old one, and then taken the old one back a day or two later. As long as you show them the receipt, they will take it off your hands.

I'm about due for a battery in my F32. First time I've had to do the registration dance in a car. The Foxwell is a good tip. Not sure if I'll go that route or Bimmercode/link.
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      10-05-2021, 01:25 PM   #16
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If your car's old enough to need a battery it's more than old enough for other things to require using a diagnostic tool.
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      10-05-2021, 02:03 PM   #17
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Honestly in this day and age, everyone should have some type of code scanner.
I bought BinmerCode and BimmerLink and have used it on three of my cars already. It’s paid for itself.

You should see some of the FB groups. Guys are posting pics of check engine lights and asking people to diagnose.
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      10-08-2021, 02:54 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chowser51 View Post
Honestly in this day and age, everyone should have some type of code scanner.
I bought BinmerCode and BimmerLink and have used it on three of my cars already. It's paid for itself.

You should see some of the FB groups. Guys are posting pics of check engine lights and asking people to diagnose.
Agree.
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      10-09-2021, 07:51 AM   #19
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Great post guys. Lots of good info here. I also agree with owning your own diagnostic tools. Saves you a lot if you have the time and patience to use them.
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      10-12-2021, 06:04 AM   #20
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So I went flashed this weekend and had it hooked to a battery charger. When I checked the voltage (engine off but electronics on), it read 12.9v.

That would mean my battery is still in good health right?
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      10-12-2021, 10:51 AM   #21
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Probably, especially since you're not where it gets cold in winter.
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      10-16-2021, 02:34 PM   #22
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So turned off cold start but left GTS roar on.
The car starts up but sounds like it's about to die for a second and then catches its breath and holds steady. Only happens on first start of the morning.

Battery issues?
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