[Samuel Lindkvist]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

Hi Samuel

This step

6. Loosen the nut on the inner control arm bolt. Just enough so there is no preload on the bolt. Do not remove completely.

Why do you take this step?

Thanks

Hi. This is because that bushing works like a torsion bar. And without loosening that bolt you can not get the outer hub to be lowered enough. At least not without applying a lot of force.

Very good that you asked because this is one of the most important step when you later reassemble the suspension.
This bolt must be torqued in one of the last step with the wheels on the ground. You want this “rubber torsion bar” to be torqued in the ride height. It is also important when you lower the car to have this torqued at the new height.

Note that this is only necessary for non M cars. M2-M4 have a uniball in that position. For M-cars you don’t need to loosen the bolt. And if you do you can torque it with the car raised.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by Samuel Lindkvist

Hi. This is because that bushing works like a torsion bar. And without loosening that bolt you can not get the outer hub to be lowered enough. At least not without applying a lot of force.

Very good that you asked because this is one of the most important step when you later reassemble the suspension.
This bolt must be torqued in one of the last step with the wheels on the ground. You want this “rubber torsion bar” to be torqued in the ride height. It is also important when you lower the car to have this torqued at the new height.

Note that this is only necessary for non M cars. M2-M4 have a uniball in that position. For M-cars you don’t need to loosen the bolt. And if you do you can torque it with the car raised.

"This bolt must be torqued in one of the last step with the wheels on the ground"

Samuel, how do you torque the control arm bolt with the car on the ground? The wheel would be in the way and there is no space to crawl under the car if it's on the ground.

[Samuel Lindkvist]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

"This bolt must be torqued in one of the last step with the wheels on the ground"

Samuel, how do you torque the control arm bolt with the car on the ground? The wheel would be in the way and there is no space to crawl under the car if it's on the ground.

”Car on the ground” may not be the best words choosen. We have the car leveled on the lift on the wheels and can stand underneath and torque the bolts like the car is on the ground. I’m sorry for my bad english.

To make this at home you can jack up the hub without wheels to an estimated position and torque the nut. Since you probably do it on one side at a time the swaybar link needs to be unconnected. This way is equally good. My point is that we need to “reset” the torsion in the bushings. This also applies to the rear axle points with rubber bushings.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by Samuel Lindkvist

”Car on the ground” may not be the best words choosen. We have the car leveled on the lift on the wheels and can stand underneath and torque the bolts like the car is on the ground. I’m sorry for my bad english.

To make this at home you can jack up the hub without wheels to an estimated position and torque the nut. Since you probably do it on one side at a time the swaybar link needs to be unconnected. This way is equally good. My point is that we need to “reset” the torsion in the bushings. This also applies to the rear axle points with rubber bushings.

Thanks for the update Samuel. I have a friend who is a BMW tech and he confirms loosening the control arm bolt is going to save a lot of effort in that one need not fight with the torsioned control arm. He also said that the arm only need be level when the bolt is re-torqued, along with confirming it can be done with a jack while the car is on jack stands. In general, with the car on jack stands, the front rides a little higher. Would you say ideally the should be level when attempting to re-level the front control arms?

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

Thanks for the update Samuel. I have a friend who is a BMW tech and he confirms loosening the control arm bolt is going to save a lot of effort in that one need not fight with the torsioned control arm. He also said that the arm only need be level when the bolt is re-torqued, along with confirming it can be done with a jack while the car is on jack stands. In general, with the car on jack stands, the front rides a little higher. Would you say ideally the should be level when attempting to re-level the front control arms?

To do this by the book take a measuring tape and record the distance between the fender and the center of the hub with the car on the ground. Replicate that distance using the floor jack under the hub. An approximation is fine.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

To do this by the book take a measuring tape and record the distance between the fender and the center of the hub with the car on the ground. Replicate that distance using the floor jack under the hub. An approximation is fine.

Do I need to remove the belly pan to get access to the control arm bolt? Or can I loosen the screws of the belly pan closest the control arm?

[Jvac]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

Do I need to remove the belly pan to get access to the control arm bolt? Or can I loosen the screws of the belly pan closest the control arm?

Just moving the fender liner should be sufficient.

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by casualDIYer

Do I need to remove the belly pan to get access to the control arm bolt? Or can I loosen the screws of the belly pan closest the control arm?

You can remove the screws around the control arms but the panels that are most in the way are the plastic trays that connect the bumper to the underlining. Removing those makes access to the TS bolts much easier.

[casualDIYer]

Originally Posted by Samuel Lindkvist

I have done this at least 50-times so here the best way I found out. Every time I’m tempted to try to get the job done quickly by not removing the strut. But trust me. It will take more time with all struggling with springs and spring compression tool in that tight space.

Below written from memory and could be faulty so please follow it with care. And be sure you have a proper spring compressor tool, it is dangerous and always a risk to compress springs.

1. Pop the hood and put masking tape around the +connector above the top mount on the right side. You will be very close to with your tools later so be carful to not make shortcircuit between + and the body.

2. Put the car on jackstands so both front wheels in in the air. If you only raise one side at a time you will have problems with removing the swaybar links.

3. Remove front wheels.

4. Loosen the height sensor that is attached to the left control arm.

If you have M2, M3 or M4 continue to point 7 below.
5. Remove enough plastic covers underneath so you can reach the inner control arm bolt.

6. Loosen the nut on the inner control arm bolt. Just enough so there is no preload on the bolt. Do not remove completely.

7. Remove the swaybar link in the strut (leave it connected to the swaybar.)

8. Put a wood piece on your jack and pump up on the front disc just until it touch.

9. Loosen the brake hose and ABS sensor cable from the sheet metal. Only one point of each hose/cable needs to be removed. Just so the canle will be longer. Take photos before this so you can remember how the cables goes around the strut.

10. Remove the strut bolt completely.

11. Put some tool in the gap where the strut is clamped so you can expand the gap.

12. Lower the jack slowly and let the strut slide out from the carrier. Continue until it fall out completely. Push the strut towards the engine and make sure the carrier will not till too much so it will stretch the brake hose.

13. Hold the strut and remove the top mount from above. 3 or 5 bolts. (Not the damper nut)

14. Put the complete strut in a vice and clamp in the swaybar link bracket.


To be continued....

Was there a part 2 coming?

[blumagic]

Uninstalled mine to sell the car and the helicoil type thread adapter pulled out. Not sure how to fix this, no way is that coil going back in. might have some expensive paperweights now.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by blumagic

Uninstalled mine to sell the car and the helicoil type thread adapter pulled out. Not sure how to fix this, no way is that coil going back in. might have some expensive paperweights now.

So BMW used to have an M10 bolt for the top hat before they switched to an M8 bolt, right?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=31_0950

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by blumagic

Uninstalled mine to sell the car and the helicoil type thread adapter pulled out. Not sure how to fix this, no way is that coil going back in. might have some expensive paperweights now.

Originally Posted by Polo08816

So BMW used to have an M10 bolt for the top hat before they switched to an M8 bolt, right?

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/sho...diagId=31_0950

https://www.millway.se/thread-lockin...-function.html

Millway sells replacements.

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

I only drive the car a handful of times a month at this point so this is what I am aiming for.

F c= -2.9 toe= 0
R c= -1.9 toe= -1/8"~

See how that goes until it has an LSD.

Here we are almost two years and about 6500 miles later and the driver side bearing is clunking away like mad. The car lives in Manhattan now so between that and riding exit curbs they held up for about as long as I anticipated.

Ordering the Street bearing replacement kit for install next month and will report back then.

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

Here we are almost two years and about 6500 miles later and the driver side bearing is clunking away like mad. The car lives in Manhattan now so between that and riding exit curbs they held up for about as long as I anticipated.

Ordering the Street bearing replacement kit for install next month and will report back then.

If it's going to be a long wait for the street retrofit (I've heard of others complaining about the lead times lately), I have some housings (the part that slides to adjust camber and holds the monoball) with brand new monoballs I can send you. We can work out something like you buy them from me, I send to you, you ship me your original housings w/worn bearings, and then I'll refund you minus the cost of new bearings/replacement. This way you can have minimal down time.

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by FaRKle!

If it's going to be a long wait for the street retrofit (I've heard of others complaining about the lead times lately), I have some housings (the part that slides to adjust camber and holds the monoball) with brand new monoballs I can send you. We can work out something like you buy them from me, I send to you, you ship me your original housings w/worn bearings, and then I'll refund you minus the cost of new bearings/replacement. This way you can have minimal down time.

That's a very generous offer, Farkle, I really appreciate that.

I shot out a message to Samuel after I placed my order asking about expected lead time and he said he hopes to have an estimate by this weekend. If that lead time is super long I will shoot you a PM and we can go from there. In any event, thank you.

I am stuck running these ones on July 3rd at Lime Rock either way so hopefully I won't have any issues.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

That's a very generous offer, Farkle, I really appreciate that.

I shot out a message to Samuel after I placed my order asking about expected lead time and he said he hopes to have an estimate by this weekend. If that lead time is super long I will shoot you a PM and we can go from there. In any event, thank you.

I am stuck running these ones on July 3rd at Lime Rock either way so hopefully I won't have any issues.

I have a street camber plate order in with Millway as well. I'm also waiting for the new Ohlins R&T kit.

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

I have a street camber plate order in with Millway as well. I'm also waiting for the new Ohlins R&T kit.

We'll have to see how much longer my V2s last with custom rates, hoping the new Ohlins kit is available at that point.

How long ago did you order your plates?

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

We'll have to see how much longer my V2s last with custom rates, hoping the new Ohlins kit is available at that point.

How long ago did you order your plates?

Maybe a week ago.

[Logicoeur]

Have anyone of you guys put in your orders for the new ohlins xdrive kit?

[nadefade]

Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB

We'll have to see how much longer my V2s last with custom rates, hoping the new Ohlins kit is available at that point.

How long ago did you order your plates?

FYI - I ordered the street plates on Tuesday and they shipped today

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by nadefade

FYI - I ordered the street plates on Tuesday and they shipped today

Yup, mine shipped today as well. Received a notification from UPS.

[MacklinUSOB]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

Yup, mine shipped today as well. Received a notification from UPS.

Just heard mine are shipping tomorrow or Thursday. As always, Samuel & Millway come through.

Can't wait to get these on.

FaRKle! Thanks again for extending a hand!