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      09-13-2018, 03:34 PM   #1
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DIY VIDEO: N20 Belt and Tensioner Replacement



______________________________________________

How to change the belt and belt tensioner on a BMW with an N20/N26 engine. Might be a similar procedure for the the newer B48 engine.

For 320, 328, 228, 428 models.

Tools required:

- Torque wrench for 14 ft/lbs
- 5 to 8" ratchet extension
- Ratchet
- 16mm socket
- E10 socket
- Flathead screwdriver
- Magnetic tool (optional but very handy)
- metal pin or ~4mm allen key to hold old tensioners tension

- Part number for the F30 328i is 11287618848 for the belt and 11287594969 for the tensioner

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      09-13-2018, 04:30 PM   #2
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Great job. At what mileage did you do this at?

Were you experiencing any symptoms?
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      09-13-2018, 05:25 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Great job. At what mileage did you do this at?

Were you experiencing any symptoms?
Thanks!

Just under 65k on it. It was never done per the records so I figured it was due for change. The belt wasn't too bad. I would say 10-20k more miles on it would be good before the outer part would start getting work out to the point of being able to be torn. The tensioner I did notice too a little bit less effort to turn compared to the new one. There was a tiny bit of bearing noise/resistant when spun by hand so I'd give it 5-10k more miles. For only costing $42 tensioner/$13 belt it's cheap insurance.
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      09-13-2018, 06:03 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidjake View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Great job. At what mileage did you do this at?

Were you experiencing any symptoms?
Thanks!

Just under 65k on it. It was never done per the records so I figured it was due for change. The belt wasn't too bad. I would say 10-20k more miles on it would be good before the outer part would start getting work out to the point of being able to be torn. The tensioner I did notice too a little bit less effort to turn compared to the new one. There was a tiny bit of bearing noise/resistant when spun by hand so I'd give it 5-10k more miles. For only costing $42 tensioner/$13 belt it's cheap insurance.
Awesome. Good info.

Im at 59k and will be completing this at 70k per your instructions. Much appreciated.
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      09-13-2018, 06:07 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Awesome. Good info.

Im at 59k and will be completing this at 70k per your instructions. Much appreciated.
Just be sure to take a peep with a flashlight to see how the belt looks (shiny outside, any cracks on the ribs and any cracks/tears overall)
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      09-13-2018, 06:55 PM   #6
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Nice vid!! I bet that would have costed you $1,200 at the dealership!!
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      09-13-2018, 07:37 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arom View Post
Nice vid!! I bet that would have costed you $1,200 at the dealership!!
Haha who knows. Fortunately I've been wrenching on cars for seven years or so so a lot a lot of money saved. Thanks man!
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      03-06-2019, 12:50 AM   #8
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I've heard that early 2013 production 328i's may have belt/ belt tensioner/ tensioner pulley problems but was fixed for the late 2013 models.

Does anyone know what production month in 2013 they changed/fixed this issue?
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      12-30-2019, 07:00 AM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NicksN20F30 View Post
I've heard that early 2013 production 328i's may have belt/ belt tensioner/ tensioner pulley problems but was fixed for the late 2013 models.

Does anyone know what production month in 2013 they changed/fixed this issue?
Late reply but I checked realoem and no part number changes in any of those items.



Bump for anyone looking to replace their belt and pulley!
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