[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by thatBimmerBloke

So I got xHP over Black Friday, flashed stage 3 and yesterday noticed in manual Sport mode the shifts are slow, specially from 1st to 2nd gear, big delay. In Sport+ the shifts are pretty good, barely any delay. My stock Sport mode was way aggressive and now it barely touches 5.5k before shifting. Shifts are smooth and fast in auto, but the manual shift delay and slowness in Sport mode is bugging me. Reached out to xHP and this is what they said:

"Make sure your BM3 engine tune does send the true torque values to the transmission, as "bend" torque values are often used, to get around the transmissions factory torque limits. If your tune uses bent torque values, then they should be able top provide a file without the bent values, as manual cars do not need this for example.

You can try stage 1, which does not use the new shift logic for 8HP, if you prefer it more. Otherwise, you can use traction mode to speed up your shift speed, without having to be in Sport mode for example. Jus click your DSC button once."

Anyone using BM3 OTS maps and xHP over here? Could you please confirm if you shift manually in Sport mode(Not Sport +), is there a delay going from 1st to 2nd?

I believe most of bm3 users don't experience this or maybe don't notice it? Feels like I'm missing something or doing something wrong.

Are you talking about only the 1-2 shift or generally just slower response from the paddles when you are in modes other than sport+.

It's documented in the XHP thread and i have observed it myself too, that the paddle response and shift speed in manual mode is slower than stock in all modes except sport+. So in comfort and sport too i believe, the paddle response is actually slower than a non XHP car. You need to go into sport + (and shifter to the left) for fastest response and shift speed. I don't think shifter position affects response time but it definitely affects shift speed. I know for a fact i have a huge delay between pulling a paddle and the trans actually shifting when i am in comfort, but basically instant response in sport+.

EDIT: Found it, check out this page, posts from zazoo: https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ht=xhp&page=16

[thatBimmerBloke]

Originally Posted by chaungo

There's a fairly good delay in comfort and sport, but I learned to live with it, normally if I want to pass someone or want to actually use the transmission, I just slap it on sport+ or use traction mode and be done with it. It doesn't bother me as much as it does others.

Ah, thank you, I thought something was wrong with my car. Kind of disappointed that my Sport mode shifts are now slower than before, it's just one click to get to Sport and I mostly used to drive in Sport instead of Sport+. Traction mode as in hit the DSC button by drive mode buttons just once? Will that give me faster shifts in Sport mode also?

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

Are you talking about only the 1-2 shift or generally just slower response from the paddles when you are in modes other than sport+.

It's documented in the XHP thread and i have observed it myself too, that the paddle response and shift speed in manual mode is slower than stock in all modes except sport+.
.
.
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Generally way slower response from paddles when in Sport mode, pretty good in Sport+, I don't even bother with Comfort Again, kinda bummed my Sport mode is now slower than before, it's also not very aggressive, shifts way sooner. I guess I'll have to start using Sport+ mode more, one extra click Doesn't Sport+ turn traction control off? That's why I was mostly using Sport to be on the safer side.
EDIT: Let me read through that thread, seems like the exact thing I'm experiencing.

[lens]

Originally Posted by thatBimmerBloke

Ah, thank you, I thought something was wrong with my car. Kind of disappointed that my Sport mode shifts are now slower than before, it's just one click to get to Sport and I mostly used to drive in Sport instead of Sport+. Traction mode as in hit the DSC button by drive mode buttons just once? Will that give me faster shifts in Sport mode also?

I always use manual mode, never auto mode (S on the dash)

If you want it to shift later, you can play around with the shift settings on the XHP app, it lets you modify each gear and what RPM you want the S mode to shift at.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by thatBimmerBloke

Ah, thank you, I thought something was wrong with my car. Kind of disappointed that my Sport mode shifts are now slower than before, it's just one click to get to Sport and I mostly used to drive in Sport instead of Sport+. Traction mode as in hit the DSC button by drive mode buttons just once? Will that give me faster shifts in Sport mode also?



Generally way slower response from paddles when in Sport mode, pretty good in Sport+, I don't even bother with Comfort Again, kinda bummed my Sport mode is now slower than before, it's also not very aggressive, shifts way sooner. I guess I'll have to start using Sport+ mode more, one extra click Doesn't Sport+ turn traction control off? That's why I was mostly using Sport to be on the safer side.
EDIT: Let me read through that thread, seems like the exact thing I'm experiencing.

According to XHP, hitting the DSC button once (a single click to engage DTC, not a long press to completely disable DSC) will give you the fastest shift speed and response time. My understanding is that this will give you sport+ shift mapping. If you engage this mode from comfort, I'm not exactly sure how your chasis and powertrain settings will differ from sport+, since sport+ does engage DTC. I literally never engage DTC in this way, so its possible it retains comfort suspension/chassis but engages DTC.

Sport+ does not turn DSC fully off. It engages DTC, or dynamic traction control. This basically allows you to spin a little bit in a straight line, but if the car detects too much wheel spin, or wheel spin with the wheel turned, or otherwise thinks you are going to slide, etc, it will still intervene. So traction control/stability control are definitely still on (you cant drift or do donuts), but just a little lenient. You need to hold the DSC button to fully turn DSC off (and it says so when you do). When you turn DSC off, you actually go back to comfort throttle mapping, but retain sport chassis settings. I forgot exactly how DSC off interacts with XHP in terms of shifting speed and response time.

FWIW I basically either drive in D/comfort, or in S/sport+. I really see no need to do the "intermediate" modes - i never use sport at all, and i also never do something like S transmissions but comfort, or D transmission but sport+. D/comfort is the casual daily mode, S/sport+ is maximum performance.

[thatBimmerBloke]

Originally Posted by chaungo

I always use manual mode, never auto mode (S on the dash)

If you want it to shift later, you can play around with the shift settings on the XHP app, it lets you modify each gear and what RPM you want the S mode to shift at.

Thank you. I'll have to change those settings for Sport mode. Anything I can do/change to make manual mode shifts faster in Sport mode? As you always use manual mode, that means you're always in Sport+ as manual shifts are pretty slow/delayed in Sport?

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

According to XHP, hitting the DSC button once (a single click to engage DTC, not a long press to completely disable DSC) will give you the fastest shift speed and response time. My understanding is that this will give you sport+ shift mapping. If you engage this mode from comfort, I'm not exactly sure how your chasis and powertrain settings will differ from sport+, since sport+ does engage DTC. I literally never engage DTC in this way, so its possible it retains comfort suspension/chassis but engages DTC.

Sport+ does not turn DSC fully off. It engages DTC, or dynamic traction control. This basically allows you to spin a little bit in a straight line, but if the car detects too much wheel spin, or wheel spin with the wheel turned, or otherwise thinks you are going to slide, etc, it will still intervene. So traction control/stability control are definitely still on (you cant drift or do donuts), but just a little lenient. You need to hold the DSC button to fully turn DSC off (and it says so when you do). When you turn DSC off, you actually go back to comfort throttle mapping, but retain sport chassis settings. I forgot exactly how DSC off interacts with XHP in terms of shifting speed and response time.

FWIW I basically either drive in D/comfort, or in S/sport+. I really see no need to do the "intermediate" modes - i never use sport at all, and i also never do something like S transmissions but comfort, or D transmission but sport+. D/comfort is the casual daily mode, S/sport+ is maximum performance.

Thanks Jeremy, cleared a few things for me, so I believe in Sport if I hit DSC once it'll improve the shift speed for me, basically it will be like Sport+ minus the DTC? It looks like it's better to just drive in Sport+ rather than Sport.

[lens]

Originally Posted by thatBimmerBloke

Thank you. I'll have to change those settings for Sport mode. Anything I can do/change to make manual mode shifts faster in Sport mode? As you always use manual mode, that means you're always in Sport+ as manual shifts are pretty slow/delayed in Sport?

Yup, always in sport+ if I need to use manual mode.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by thatBimmerBloke

Thanks Jeremy, cleared a few things for me, so I believe in Sport if I hit DSC once it'll improve the shift speed for me, basically it will be like Sport+ minus the DTC? It looks like it's better to just drive in Sport+ rather than Sport.

If you hit the DSC button once you will engage DTC... based on everything i have seen from XHP, you basically need to engage DTC in order to get the fastest shift speed - either by going into sport +, or by hitting the DSC button once from comfort or sport mode. If you are already in sport and then hit the DSC button once, you are basically replicating sport+ mode, but not sure if there are any other nuanced changes.

Bottom line - if you want max performance, drive in S transmission and sport+. I don't consider driving in sport+ or DTC dangerous, but this is 100% a personal decision. If you drive the car like a video game and expect to just be able to mash the gas at all times including during turns and have the car keep you out of trouble, you may not want to use DTC, although its still quite protective.

[thatBimmerBloke]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

If you hit the DSC button once you will engage DTC... based on everything i have seen from XHP, you basically need to engage DTC in order to get the fastest shift speed - either by going into sport +, or by hitting the DSC button once from comfort or sport mode. If you are already in sport and then hit the DSC button once, you are basically replicating sport+ mode, but not sure if there are any other nuanced changes.

Bottom line - if you want max performance, drive in S transmission and sport+. I don't consider driving in sport+ or DTC dangerous, but this is 100% a personal decision. If you drive the car like a video game and expect to just be able to mash the gas at all times including during turns and have the car keep you out of trouble, you may not want to use DTC, although its still quite protective.

Thanks Jeremy, I will try that today. I thought something was wrong with my car after experiencing slow shifts in Sport mode Got my answers now.

[Joeirl92]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

See attached picture below. HPFP is simple, just look at actual versus target. Ideally you want to be right at target. A few hundred PSI might not be a big deal, but once you get below 1500psi actual you can start to run into fuel delivery issues. Your STFTs arent going positive so your fueling is still under control (i.e, its not a "crash").

The overboost isnt a "problem" its the nature of the BM3 maps. It just differs from MHD and other load based tunes where that doesnt happen (and isnt 'allowed' to without the DME intervening).

If you plan to stay stock turbo, stage 1 HPFP would be more than enough. Stage 2 if you want to future proof the car for a turbo upgrade and ethanol map in the future. The good thing is that now even if you get a stage 1, you can run the 2+ map, so you arent doing it just for the take of having enough fuel for this map.

I see it now. Thanks for the clarification Jeremy. I'm seeing it now in the log with your attached description.

I was so dead set on the Pure Stage 2, but I think E30+ will be totally fine. I found out that I have the older N55 anyways (checked the wiring for old vs new HPFP), so not sure what reliability issues may arise the deeper I go, or if it's even worth a turbo upgrade. Stock turbo FBO is the end of the line for me. So I'm going to cap at the Stage 1. Plus that clutch upgrade was 2k including install.

[thatBimmerBloke]

Someone on Facebook mentioned MHD black adapter working with bootmod3? Has anyone tried it and is it reliable?
proTUNING Freaks

[cesarortiz23]

https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5ffc...0b431ee282c3a5
https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5ffc...0b431e28db9b93
https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5ffc...90c649c15f962e
https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=5ffc...90c649c15f962d



can someone help me. try to figure out wth is wrong with my car lol

Is so hard to explain what's even happening but here is what I feel I get very bad misfires/studders/hicups/backfires/vibration. when I accelerate more than 50% throttle

ive tried all maps it does it on all maps accept stock map.

any clue wth it can be here goes som logs where the car is acting really stupid lol

[paimon.soror]

not sure if just me, but those logs arent loading *shrugs*

edit: looks like you may have copied them from somewhere else on the forum (forum truncates urls with an ellipsis ... )

[cesarortiz23]

Originally Posted by paimon.soror

not sure if just me, but those logs arent loading *shrugs*

edit: looks like you may have copied them from somewhere else on the forum (forum truncates urls with an ellipsis ... )

sorry bout that they should work now so those logs are on e85 3 gallons rest 91



now these logs here are just stock map

and the car feels alot better in stock map

protunning freaks mentioned they are 99% sure my injector is going bad on cyl 6 because he said there was too much timing being pulled back on cyl 6 but on stock map it doesn't look like Is pulling time on just 6 so idk

here goes some logs on stock map

https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=6002...90c656f5acc10f
https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=6002...0b434387f959bf
https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=6002...729b13f1e035bf
https://www.bootmod3.net/log?id=6002...90c6565b6677ed

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

-Anyone know what's going on with OTS maps? They've been wonky since yesterday, showing up and disappearing, latest release date says 1-19-21 but when you click into the map release date changes to 2/20 with versions 7.1 showing up... Some are saying there is an update out for OTS maps but I don't see anything and PTF has been quiet for quite some time.

[designatedposter]

Originally Posted by XxThe_RemedyXx

-Anyone know what's going on with OTS maps? They've been wonky since yesterday, showing up and disappearing, latest release date says 1-19-21 but when you click into the map release date changes to 2/20 with versions 7.1 showing up... Some are saying there is an update out for OTS maps but I don't see anything and PTF has been quiet for quite some time.

i reached out to PTF this morning when i noticed the OTS stage 2+ race gas was missing. They added it back and i was able to see it after logging out and back in.

i followed up asking about the new updates the m2 n55 guys got for 6mt drivability as well as stage 2+ 93 octane. all i got was "working on it".

[XxThe_RemedyXx]

Originally Posted by designatedposter

i reached out to PTF this morning when i noticed the OTS stage 2+ race gas was missing. They added it back and i was able to see it after logging out and back in.

i followed up asking about the new updates the m2 n55 guys got for 6mt drivability as well as stage 2+ 93 octane. all i got was "working on it".

Cool! Thanks for the info.

[itsrichierich]

Not to steer this thread off topic but I have a question. Car is currently stage 2 91 tune with catless DP and all the other bolt on. Getting ready to sell the car and need to smog it.

I obviously have to change the the DP back to the OEM, but what tune do I need to change to? Stage 1 or back to stock?

I read that the car needs to go through a monitor readiness but how many miles of different driving does that take?

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

Not to steer this thread off topic but I have a question. Car is currently stage 2 91 tune with catless DP and all the other bolt on. Getting ready to sell the car and need to smog it.

I obviously have to change the the DP back to the OEM, but what tune do I need to change to? Stage 1 or back to stock?

I read that the car needs to go through a monitor readiness but how many miles of different driving does that take?

AFAIK you can pass with the tune on but i would just flash it back to stock to be sure.

Correct that all of the monitors need to be in the "COMPLETE" state in order to pass the OBD2 check (some states might allow 1 not ready and still pass) You should be able to read this from BM3, i know you can with MHD. Note, some might say "Not Avail." and thats fine. The ones that are available just need to be ready.

The driving cycle is not entirely prescriptive but it requires extended periods of both cold and hot idling, driving under various conditions/throttle positions, etc. You can do some googling as they are some guides that seem to work pretty good to getting it ready as quickly as possible but its not necessarily that you can just do X Y Z and its ready. I would probably do something like: cold start and idle for 5-10 minutes; city driving for 10 miles; highway driving for 10-15 miles; city driving for 10 miles; hot idle for 5-10 minutes. I think you need to throw a couple restarts in there too.

[itsrichierich]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

AFAIK you can pass with the tune on but i would just flash it back to stock to be sure.

Correct that all of the monitors need to be in the "COMPLETE" state in order to pass the OBD2 check (some states might allow 1 not ready and still pass) You should be able to read this from BM3, i know you can with MHD. Note, some might say "Not Avail." and thats fine. The ones that are available just need to be ready.

The driving cycle is not entirely prescriptive but it requires extended periods of both cold and hot idling, driving under various conditions/throttle positions, etc. You can do some googling as they are some guides that seem to work pretty good to getting it ready as quickly as possible but its not necessarily that you can just do X Y Z and its ready. I would probably do something like: cold start and idle for 5-10 minutes; city driving for 10 miles; highway driving for 10-15 miles; city driving for 10 miles; hot idle for 5-10 minutes. I think you need to throw a couple restarts in there too.

Awesome, thank you Jeremy. Will give this a try on Saturday. Got someone to buy the car. Going to miss this car, probably more than my E46 M3.

Buuuuut I'll be back with either a E90 M3, F80 M3 or F85 X5M

[designatedposter]

Originally Posted by itsrichierich

Not to steer this thread off topic but I have a question. Car is currently stage 2 91 tune with catless DP and all the other bolt on. Getting ready to sell the car and need to smog it.

I obviously have to change the the DP back to the OEM, but what tune do I need to change to? Stage 1 or back to stock?

I read that the car needs to go through a monitor readiness but how many miles of different driving does that take?

stage 2 tunes, by default, disable the CEL for catless downpipes and unless your state allows that.. you won't pass smog. safest bet is to flash back to stock.

are you planning to sell car with the tune on it? if so, the new buyer would only be able to access and change tunes with your email and password that opened the account.

if you are selling the car as stock, then flash the car back to stock and lock. then the tune is removed completely and you can resell the license to anyone you choose. note that the license can only be resold once.

[thejeremyman9]

Originally Posted by designatedposter

stage 2 tunes, by default, disable the CEL for catless downpipes and unless your state allows that.. you won't pass smog. safest bet is to flash back to stock.

are you planning to sell car with the tune on it? if so, the new buyer would only be able to access and change tunes with your email and password that opened the account.

if you are selling the car as stock, then flash the car back to stock and lock. then the tune is removed completely and you can resell the license to anyone you choose. note that the license can only be resold once.

I've never heard of the tune disabling the CEL by default. I thought that was just a check box option like it is on MHD? Also, even if the CEL is disabled, i am pretty sure the OBD2 scan for emissions monitors is totally separate from that software change. Same reason why a tuned car can pass with the tune still installed. There is a difference between disabling the CEL and altering the emissions monitors (the latter being what is highly illegal).

[LA1Z24]

Originally Posted by thejeremyman9

I've never heard of the tune disabling the CEL by default. I thought that was just a check box option like it is on MHD? Also, even if the CEL is disabled, i am pretty sure the OBD2 scan for emissions monitors is totally separate from that software change. Same reason why a tuned car can pass with the tune still installed. There is a difference between disabling the CEL and altering the emissions monitors (the latter being what is highly illegal).

Stage 2 disables quite a lot of codes.

Last week I had a coil pack drop out. It wouldn't throw ANY codes. I am an automotive diagnostician, so this was very strange to me. No codes, all monitors set, and the engine clearly has a dead hole.

I drove it around for 75 miles, it never set a code. Frustrated, I pulled over, and flashed the car back to stock. Within 15 seconds I had a cylinder 6 misfire code, I had an injector 6 shut down due to misfire code, and some other random ones. None of those codes show up with the stage 2 BM3 tune.