[Nido_5]

Hey guys,
So my right rear wheel bearing went bad. I decided to replace it on my own. After replacing, the loud(bad bearing) sound went away. But now I can hear the ball bearings spinning(if that makes sense) when driving and my windows are down. I assumed I bought a cheap bearing that just didn't have enough grease in it, so you can hear the balls spinning. So I decided to order a new OEM bearing, and tackle it again. I just finished and now I am getting a Chassis Stabilization and ABS light. I have rechecked everything I can think of, and took it all apart twice now and put back together, but cant seem to figure out why its on. oh and also, I can hear the bearing spinning on the new OEM bearing as well
I had zero issues the first two times, other than the bearing still made noise. So i'm familiar with the process, but don't know whats causing the issue this time. Maybe a sensor went bad? the sensor on the top of the wheel hub, is that the speed sensor? i tried cleaning and re-seating it, to no luck....
Any ideas???

[IK6SPEED]

Originally Posted by Nido_5

Hey guys,
So my right rear wheel bearing went bad. I decided to replace it on my own. After replacing, the loud(bad bearing) sound went away. But now I can hear the ball bearings spinning(if that makes sense) when driving and my windows are down. I assumed I bought a cheap bearing that just didn't have enough grease in it, so you can hear the balls spinning. So I decided to order a new OEM bearing, and tackle it again. I just finished and now I am getting a Chassis Stabilization and ABS light. I have rechecked everything I can think of, and took it all apart twice now and put back together, but cant seem to figure out why its on. oh and also, I can hear the bearing spinning on the new OEM bearing as well
I had zero issues the first two times, other than the bearing still made noise. So i'm familiar with the process, but don't know whats causing the issue this time. Maybe a sensor went bad? the sensor on the top of the wheel hub, is that the speed sensor? i tried cleaning and re-seating it, to no luck....
Any ideas???

No idea to your issues, however my left and right wheel bearings BOTH went out on a 2013 with less 50k miles which I find rather strange.

What year is your car and how many miles.

Furthermore, both my bearings were seized in place. One took 15 hours to remove. The other was impossible and the entire part had to be replaced.

Take it you had no issues like that?

Also, what non-OEM Brand did you originally use?

[Nido_5]

Originally Posted by IK6SPEED

No idea to your issues, however my left and right wheel bearings BOTH went out on a 2013 with less 50k miles which I find rather strange.

What year is your car and how many miles.

Furthermore, both my bearings were seized in place. One took 15 hours to remove. The other was impossible and the entire part had to be replaced.

Take it you had no issues like that?

Also, what non-OEM Brand did you originally use?

Actually my axle was seized in the bearing the first time around, that was a huge PITA,
My car is a 2013 with 65k miles.
Honestly i forget the name of the bearing, but the OEM is acting the exact same.
I'm assuming its the speed sensor that throwing the lights. Maybe I order a new one.
But still clueless on the bearing noise. Its like you can literally hear the balls spinning

[Nido_5]

update:
checked the speed sensor and wiring for damage, everything seems ok.
After erasing the codes and test driving, the same chassis error comes on.
The car drives fine, until the error comes up, then the car sounds funny and i can feel something abnormal when pushing the gas pedal, like a weird stutter, also in the brake pedal.
Also, when going in reverse to get back to the driveway, the chassis warning light goes off. but as soon as I go forward, it comes back on. Would this indicate that the sensor is ok?
Any ideas?

[Billfitz]

You need to use an OBD diagnostic tool to test the sensors. When working correctly they'll all come up on the readout with the speed registered at each wheel, in real time. You don't have to be driving fast, I tested mine in my driveway reaching only 3MPH.

[Nido_5]

I had a local bmw shop check it out and was told that the new sensor i purchased was not OEM, and the car knows, so it still throws the codes.
I purchased an oem sensor from ecs and come to find out it didnt work wither, bc my car doesnt have the assist cruise control, making it the wrong sensor for my car. After reading the forums i found someone saying they purchased the "holstein" brand(which is all ECS has for my car) and it didn't work for them. Eventually they found one on ebay that did, not going with OEM. It was german parts saver, but they are all out. I tried a different ebay guy, to no luck.

Here's what ICarly is pulling up.

Engine / Motor
Fault Code: CD944D
Fault Explanation: FlexRay message (actual speed wheel, 46.0.1): Signal Error Fault Code: 1B0A21
Fault Explanation: Rough road detection: No receive wheel speed

Dynamische Stabilitäts Control / DSC
Fault Code: 48068C
Fault Explanation: :temporarily shut down coupling, possibly overheating - Transfer / Sensor rear electrically defective
ault Code: 480686
Fault Explanation: :Sensor: Verbauposition flawed / pump motor / Wheel speed sensor - Back Right - detecting starting faulty

Integrated Chassis Management Quer/Längsdynamik
Fault Code: D017A3
Fault Explanation: :Signal fault (actual number of encoder wheel flanks, ID: AVL QUAN EES WHL) - Invalid / Error signal (actual number of encoder wheel flanks, ID: AVL QUAN EES WHL) Channel: DSC Module - Invalid
Fault Code: D017C5
Fault Explanation: :Error signal (actual speed wheel, ID: AVL RPM WHL) Channel: DSC Module - Invalid / Signal fault (actual speed wheel ID: AVL RPM WHL) - Invalid

Automatik-Getriebesteuergeraet FPO ATCU
Fault Code: 440117
Fault Explanation: :Wheel distributor gear mothballed

Anti-Blockier-und Stability Control 5 auto. E34 / 16
Fault Code: 801A4C
Fault Explanation: :SINE: Internal supply undervoltage

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Nido_5

Hey guys,
So my right rear wheel bearing went bad. I decided to replace it on my own. After replacing, the loud(bad bearing) sound went away. But now I can hear the ball bearings spinning(if that makes sense) when driving and my windows are down. I assumed I bought a cheap bearing that just didn't have enough grease in it, so you can hear the balls spinning. So I decided to order a new OEM bearing, and tackle it again. I just finished and now I am getting a Chassis Stabilization and ABS light. I have rechecked everything I can think of, and took it all apart twice now and put back together, but cant seem to figure out why its on. oh and also, I can hear the bearing spinning on the new OEM bearing as well
I had zero issues the first two times, other than the bearing still made noise. So i'm familiar with the process, but don't know whats causing the issue this time. Maybe a sensor went bad? the sensor on the top of the wheel hub, is that the speed sensor? i tried cleaning and re-seating it, to no luck....
Any ideas???

What tools did you need for the rear wheel bearing removal and install?

[Nido_5]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

What tools did you need for the rear wheel bearing removal and install?

not gonna lie its not the easiest job.
I didn't make a list of everything, but obviously your regular ratchet/socket set to unbolt everything attached to the wheel hub. The biggest issue is getting the bearing in and out of the hub. I luckily have a hydraulic press that made that process a lot easier.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by Nido_5

not gonna lie its not the easiest job.
I didn't make a list of everything, but obviously your regular ratchet/socket set to unbolt everything attached to the wheel hub. The biggest issue is getting the bearing in and out of the hub. I luckily have a hydraulic press that made that process a lot easier.

Sounds like you removed the wheel hub (with bearing attached) and pressed it out? This method would negate the removal/dropping of the rear diff.