04-03-2020, 03:53 AM | #67 |
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FaRKle!
Thank you - I have checked it out and found correct numbers. At least I hope so. To others, if needed, 340i part numbers are: front: 35-264552 back: 24-264563 (this is taken from bilsten website: https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/produ...08054801141563 https://www.bilstein.com/us/en/produ...08054801141563 ) Luverse I have pro-kit since last year on my 340. I can tell you from my experience that the improvement is significant over the stock springs, both in looks and ride quality. However after some time I believe my stock shockers gave in and car became quite bouncy. At least mine did (only 2 years old) so now I am upgrading to Bilstein B8 shocks to match the pro-kit springs (many people suggested me to do so). I believe the pro-kit is a good upgrade, however to really benefit from it you need to pair it with "stronger" shocks. Speaking from 1 year experience of using pro-kit with stock shocks. |
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04-03-2020, 10:38 AM | #68 | |
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Drives: 328d Wagon, M2 Comp, i4 eD35
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-328d Wagon Build Log (with helpful reference links)
-My YouTube Channel for some of the best DIYs and in depth information Please don't PM me for suspension recommendations unless interested in paid private consultations. |
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04-03-2020, 11:13 AM | #69 | |
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i'm more leaning towards bilstein b8 now |
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04-24-2020, 08:50 AM | #71 |
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Installed the B8's today. They work great with eibach pro-kit. The car sits the same as it did before, but now it feels much more agile! I took it for a ride on the same road as earlier with stock dampers (with all curves and bumps) and it feels more planted and obedient now. The ride is a bit more harsh, but not even close to annoying for my taste.
I recommend Bilsten B8 + Eibach Prokit. The car looks and drivers much better! Time to put the horses to work :-) |
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07-11-2020, 08:29 PM | #72 |
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I've had the Koni Red's for a few months now and decided to pull the trigger on the Eibach Pro Kit for my 328xdrive Msport. Super happy with it, first impressions and a few pics sine seemingly its hard to find decent ones outside of this thread.
-Takes the edge off of the ride height, but doesn't overdue it. As others have noted its how you wish it came from the factory and you know the car is lowered, but its not a "lowered car" if you know what I mean. -Stiffens the car up about 10%. Since I did it step by step with Koni's first then the spring/shock combo I'd probably say the shocks stiffen it up about 10% and the springs another 10%. I adored the factory softness on long commutes, this has definitely changed it, but the trade-off is worth it. -Handles amazing, touch of body roll on corner entry and then she settles right in. Significantly more confidence inspiring with this setup than the factory shocks/springs. FWIW I'm running 18x9 D-FORCE wheels all around with 245 Michelin Pilot Sports 4S and 5m spacers up front.
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08-03-2020, 07:57 AM | #73 |
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Hello, I recently bought a used 2013 335i F30, which if I understand correctly, has standard suspension.
I am thinking about lowering the car a little and installing Eibach pro kit, also i thought about upgrading my shock absorbers from standard to M sport, but so far as I searched, I found that the part codes match between standard and M sport shock absorbers. So far I looked at Sachs part catalog and some other online shops. Does anyone know if M-sport and standard suspension models have the same shock absorbers? |
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08-07-2020, 03:29 PM | #74 |
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I had some Eibach Pro, the 06 22's springs fitted a week ago on my 435d F36, the rears have dropped 15mm, just like quoted, so they are absolutely spot on. The fronts have only dropped 8mm n/s and 10mm o/s, which is not quite what i wanted, though the drive is much better, it still lifts if you accelerate hard, i'm sure this would improve if it dropped the further 10mm per the figures. i have now done 500 miles since fitting so don't see it settling anymore. I have been going to the same garage for over thirty years, and there work has always been consistently good.
I have read, that the pinch bolts can cause problems lowering if tightened at the wrong time, so when i mentioned this to the mechanic he said the procedure can be done without even touching these. So wondered if any of you good chaps out there had any other ideas, or am i just going to have to put up with it like this, by the way its not horrible, would just prefer to get the other 10mm of drop. Cheers |
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11-21-2020, 08:29 PM | #75 | |
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I had a similar issue with the front being about 10mm higher than expected and was immediately skeptical of the instal. I appreciate it in advance!
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11-22-2020, 12:43 AM | #76 |
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So springs... if you keep the stock shocks (in my case, the adaptive), you don't have to remove them to swap out springs.
You simply undo the top strut nut, the 3 (or 5) strut mount bolts, and undo the upper sway bar link. A spring compressor is then used to compress the stock spring. Undo the brake lines, sensors and what-not (4 of them if I remember right). The whole suspension just drops down and can swing down/outward to remove the spring. If the replacement spring is shorter, it just slips into place (no compressor needed). Bolt everything back up. Roughly an hour per side if you take your time. And no need to remove the shock. |
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11-23-2020, 06:11 AM | #77 |
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I am not sure, it was just something that i had read on here, i did put this to the guy that installed them, and he said he didn't have to touch them to install the springs, so unfortunately i am none the wiser
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