[AlmightyF30]

Hey guys, I have a 2014 328i, with CTS cold air intake, VRSF charge pipe, VRSF intercooler, Cattless DP.. Thinking of doing JB4 or bootmod….. give me
some advice

[sqwinny]

Bootmod is going to be the best tuning platform for the n20, best tune is going to be OTS stage 2 Navardi tuned or custom from Navardi tuned. Seriously.

You need bm3 license for starts.

BM3 offers a map pack which you can buy with their license.

The best tune is going to be : Navardi tuned (prices are in AUS)

OTS
https://navardituned.com/collections...s-maps-for-bm3

Full custom (1 year or revisions, also free upgrade if you go from stage 1 -> 2 in regards to more aftermarket parts)

https://navardituned.com/products/n20

[sqwinny]

Please don't message me which is the best tune for a daily driver. All tunes are made to be daily drivers + allow you to enjoy the full capacity of the car. stage 1 vs stage 2 only matters in terms of what parts you have on the car to fully support the changes to make more power with safe margins.

rule of thumb, stage 1 needs nothing, but I would recommend turbo inlet + intercooler at least.

stage 2 needs downpipe + charge and boost pipe + intercooler at a minimum. the rest will allow you to make more power, but those mentioned previously allow the car's computer (DME) to meet their targets without a hardware limitation.

[socalr53]

sqwinny, I killed my N26 with the dinan sport tune. (no compression on cylinder#3)
I am in search of a replacement engine. Should I look for anything specific when I get my replacement engine ? Should I buy it from a rebuilder who can put reinforced pistons or something ? wanted to be safe with my new motor. Also, I am definitely going with bm3 or something better

PS: OP, not to derail your original question, but this may help with anyone who is going for a motor replacement because of a bad tune or bad luck

[sqwinny]

The safest is going to be a rebuilt with forged components. that way you don't have to worry about bottom end at all.

There's a couple write ups around but this is what I know off the top of my brain:

S55 rods + pistons - 100% fit into the n20/n26 and you're good up to around 450-500 whp.

Aftermarket pistons (either need the bmw cylinder plasma coating reapplied or an aftermarket sleeve)

Carillo makes a set (n20/n26/n55/s55) all share the same piston.
Mahle makes a forged piston


Aftermarket forged rods (these are all h beam design and you need to notch the block to fit them)

Maxspeeding rods
Sp components
Hurricane rods
Carrillo rods
Manley (4 qty vs 6 from s55 kit)

Not a full list, but this wiki has a LOT of detail.

https://www.notion.so/n2xandb4xwiki/...1e34e776d5156f

[boyerizm]

Originally Posted by socalr53

sqwinny, I killed my N26 with the dinan sport tune. (no compression on cylinder#3)
I am in search of a replacement engine. Should I look for anything specific when I get my replacement engine ? Should I buy it from a rebuilder who can put reinforced pistons or something ? wanted to be safe with my new motor. Also, I am definitely going with bm3 or something better

PS: OP, not to derail your original question, but this may help with anyone who is going for a motor replacement because of a bad tune or bad luck

What stage is the Dinan tune equivalent to? Maybe 2?

I thought that tuning was pretty benign unless you really start to push it. Now I'm second guessing.

[boyerizm]

Okay Dinan claims 30+ hp and 50+ tq

vs BM3 stage 1 that is 24% and 38% respectively. So Dinan isn't even equivalent to a stage 1 tune?

[sqwinny]

Dinan piggyback appears to be the same results as the JB+ unit.

Tuning car you car comes with risks. If something is weak/just within limits and you tune, car will respond. Thus when trying to make more power, understand if you have slowly failing/out of spec parts, pushing it to do more can cause things to fail. Typically it's injectors or plugs + coils where people find something needs to be changed after a tune

[mike@x-ph.com]

Bootmod3, you will get a check engine light if you run a piggyback with your downpipe

[chowser51]

piggybacks won't feel as good as an ecu tune.

I did the jb+ for a few months then went to bm3 stage 1 and it totally changed the way the car drives.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by chowser51

piggybacks won't feel as good as an ecu tune.

I did the jb+ for a few months then went to bm3 stage 1 and it totally changed the way the car drives.

While I do agree with you about the first statement, it's not fair to compare the simplest boost adder to a flash tune and make an assumption regarding all piggybacks.

[captainfast]

I'd recommend BM3 stage 1 tune. Works with stock internals. Any other stage will require hardware changes.

I'm also using the 91 octane tune as gas prices differ by a very large margin where I'm at.

[mike@x-ph.com]

Originally Posted by captainfast

I'd recommend BM3 stage 1 tune. Works with stock internals. Any other stage will require hardware changes.

I'm also using the 91 octane tune as gas prices differ by a very large margin where I'm at.

[madjetey]

Originally Posted by sqwinny

Not a full list, but this wiki has a LOT of detail.

https://www.notion.so/n2xandb4xwiki/...1e34e776d5156f

Has anyone made a copy of this wiki?

[sqwinny]

Originally Posted by madjetey

Has anyone made a copy of this wiki?

Updated link.

https://bmwenginewiki.com/en/home

[Neidthebeamer]

Originally Posted by sqwinny

Please don't message me which is the best tune for a daily driver. All tunes are made to be daily drivers + allow you to enjoy the full capacity of the car. stage 1 vs stage 2 only matters in terms of what parts you have on the car to fully support the changes to make more power with safe margins.

rule of thumb, stage 1 needs nothing, but I would recommend turbo inlet + intercooler at least.

stage 2 needs downpipe + charge and boost pipe + intercooler at a minimum. the rest will allow you to make more power, but those mentioned previously allow the car's computer (DME) to meet their targets without a hardware limitation.

If I went stage 2 on my 328i I’d need to get a charge and boost pipe? I’ve already got a intercooler, intake, catless downpipe, new sparks and coils. Would I also need to get charge and boost to run decent with stage 2 93 octane?