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      05-21-2020, 03:14 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Newt View Post
Yeah if you're catless, I wouldn't worry about the elevated levels of ZDDP in diesel oils, and especially if it carries an API Sx certification. I have an aftermarket high-flow DP that I'd like to preserve (these things ain't cheap) so 0W-40 Castrol (LL-01) it is for me. We also have a long, cold winter (Oct - April) so I need to stick with a 0W.

If you Google around, you'll see Blackstone lab reports of BMWs running Rotella T6 5W-40 diesel oil. They're almost all good reports.
I don't really see the point though, unless you're trying to save like $8 over Castrol euro.
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      05-21-2020, 03:39 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by AspektUSA View Post
I don't really see the point though, unless you're trying to save like $8 over Castrol euro.
Don't see the point in what, running diesel oil? That's already been discussed in this thread. Higher ZDDP = more engine cleaning.
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      05-21-2020, 04:13 PM   #91
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Originally Posted by G.Newt View Post
Don't see the point in what, running diesel oil? That's already been discussed in this thread. Higher ZDDP = more engine cleaning.
That's presuming the engine is gunked in the first place, which it isn't if you've been changing your oil regularly.

Additional ZDDP and moly are things of the past.
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      05-21-2020, 04:17 PM   #92
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ZDDP and moly do more than just cleaning.
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      05-21-2020, 05:59 PM   #93
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Originally Posted by weehe126 View Post
ZDDP and moly do more than just cleaning.
Yes, in 2020 it doesn't do anything other than lighten your wallet.

If you need 1% better lubricity, use CeraTec.
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      05-22-2020, 09:26 AM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AspektUSA View Post
I don't really see the point though, unless you're trying to save like $8 over Castrol euro.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AspektUSA View Post
Yes, in 2020 it doesn't do anything other than lighten your wallet.

If you need 1% better lubricity, use CeraTec.
Well now, which one is it. More expensive or save $8 lol. Rotella T6 has shown to reduce wear on engine internals in engines as new as the N55. Will it do the same for the B58, I dont know. But to say those additives don't do anything is just a lie.
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      05-22-2020, 10:00 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by weehe126 View Post
Well now, which one is it. More expensive or save $8 lol. Rotella T6 has shown to reduce wear on engine internals in engines as new as the N55. Will it do the same for the B58, I dont know. But to say those additives don't do anything is just a lie.
Do you have a direct comparison of the same B58 engine, running the same interval, in the same conditions between German castrol and Shell Rotella?

I'd love to see the UOAs that show rotella is beneficial to B58 engines.

Otherwise you're promoting voodoo, same as anyone else.

Tell you what, if my B58 which runs on 0w-20 OE oil and your B58 run on Rotella have a difference in wear of > 0.01% after 300,000mi - I'll personally buy you any Ferrari of your choosing.
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      05-22-2020, 11:29 AM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AspektUSA View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by weehe126 View Post
Well now, which one is it. More expensive or save $8 lol. Rotella T6 has shown to reduce wear on engine internals in engines as new as the N55. Will it do the same for the B58, I dont know. But to say those additives don't do anything is just a lie.
Do you have a direct comparison of the same B58 engine, running the same interval, in the same conditions between German castrol and Shell Rotella?

I'd love to see the UOAs that show rotella is beneficial to B58 engines.

Otherwise you're promoting voodoo, same as anyone else.

Tell you what, if my B58 which runs on 0w-20 OE oil and your B58 run on Rotella have a difference in wear of > 0.01% after 300,000mi - I'll personally buy you any Ferrari of your choosing.
I will say this: in modern times, it matters more to do frequent and consistent oil changes rather than which oil you're using. Synthetics are pretty good now-a-days. Oil filters probably go bad before the oil does.
I don't think there's anything wrong with being faithful to a certain type or brand, especially if you've had good results with it in the past on other cars. If you like Rotella T6, keep using it. I'll probably stick with 0W-40 Castrol because it's cheap as fuck and has high levels of ZDDP for a gasoline oil.
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      05-29-2020, 02:33 AM   #97
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No one spoke about AMS oil surprisingly. Best oil out there imo
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      05-29-2020, 08:28 AM   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Newt View Post
I will say this: in modern times, it matters more to do frequent and consistent oil changes rather than which oil you're using. Synthetics are pretty good now-a-days. Oil filters probably go bad before the oil does.
I don't think there's anything wrong with being faithful to a certain type or brand, especially if you've had good results with it in the past on other cars. If you like Rotella T6, keep using it. I'll probably stick with 0W-40 Castrol because it's cheap as fuck and has high levels of ZDDP for a gasoline oil.
One exception to this: Use an oil with appropriate additives to fight carbon buildup on the intake valves, since these are DI engines without port injection.

MANY oils have those now... but that's one of the things the BMW spec requires, so if you want to be sure, following the BMW spec is the easiest way to be sure.
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      07-13-2020, 12:01 AM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Newt View Post
Due to the high sulfuric content in US fuels, the diesel oil (LL-04) is not suitable for gasoline engines here. Overseas in Europe where they don't have that issue, LL-04 can be a substitute, yes.
This isn't accurate anymore, 10ppm gasoline sulphur content in Europe is also now the standard in North America. You can run the lower TBN LL-04 oils in Canada and the US now.
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      10-28-2020, 10:49 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kilogram View Post
As far as additive packages go though, I'd also be interested in the calcium/moly content nowadays given the prevalence of LSPI in newer engines. Maybe the B58 doesn't have issues with it, but given most OEMs tend to try to hold the taller gears at higher load/lower rpm under normal conditions, it may be worth at least talking about. Castrol used to be super low calcium, but my understanding is that it's crept upward in recent years..
Reviving this, but has there been any LSPI problems with the B58 now that is has been out for a few years? Have been reading about this lately as a concern in newer DI cars (like the C8 corvette models)
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      10-28-2020, 01:30 PM   #101
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stucks View Post
Reviving this, but has there been any LSPI problems with the B58 now that is has been out for a few years? Have been reading about this lately as a concern in newer DI cars (like the C8 corvette models)
BMW and conditions for LSPI are a thing in the F30. Nothing LSPI issues so far and from looking around, forum members log.
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      11-02-2020, 01:19 PM   #102
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Originally Posted by BMWILUVU View Post
BMW and conditions for LSPI are a thing in the F30. Nothing LSPI issues so far and from looking around, forum members log.
They are a thing? From the second part of your post, I'm assuming thats probably a no lol.
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      11-03-2020, 05:17 AM   #103
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Someone use Motul 300V 5W40?
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      11-03-2020, 08:17 AM   #104
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Someone use Motul 300V 5W40?
Still have it in the car since my last track run.
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      01-03-2021, 02:04 PM   #105
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I use RAVENOL SSL SAE 0W-40, because i read in german forums that is the best. I don’t know, but car works very well with it .
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      02-09-2021, 09:03 PM   #106
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Attached is my oil analysis. The Castrol 0W-40 is a thin 40 as has been mentioned and it's performing great and it's super cheap.

Looks like 6k is the most they want me to run the oil for now. That's about when I change it anyway (~5.5k). Very little/no bearing wear, the most important thing I was watching out for.

I see little reason to run 0W-20 when it's typically more expensive and provides less protection, at least on paper.
https://www.speediagnostix.com/new-o...ysis/bmw-ow-20
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      04-14-2021, 03:55 PM   #107
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My first report after I dumped the 0w20 crisco from the dealer and put in LiquiMoly Leichtlaufe 5w40. I went 6800mi on purpose to see what all is going on with the b58. I will be changing it before 6k. I've changed it since and didn't get it tested. I will test this current oil as I did the LM ceratec treatment. Wondering if that will increase the moly or if I need to go back to using Mos2 once or twice a year instead.

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      04-14-2021, 05:11 PM   #108
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I would refrain from additives especially Ceratec since it has residue I can see. Our modern BMW engine has many solenoids and sensors you don't want to gunk with residue. I have no proof it was but I have oil pressure solenoids replaced twice and was using ceratec and I was taking ultra care of the car using nothing else out of the ordinary. The dealership was very curious why and asked if I was using any additives and I kept my lips zipped.
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      07-08-2021, 11:23 PM   #109
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drivef30 View Post
Just for everyone not wanting to look at the manual but Xw-30 and Xw-40 are within spec.

(I run 5w-40 in the summer, 0w-40 in the winter in Michigan)
You must have a 2017 or earlier car.
I would like to understand why BMW changed the manual for 2018 and only recommend 0-20 or 0-30. As far as I know the engine in 2028 didn't change from prior MY's.

I would like to use 5w-40 which is what my tuner is recommending (Motul or Liqui Moly) but am slightly concerned that the engine is not built for such heavy oil?? Quite confused at this point.
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      07-09-2021, 12:07 AM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ramos View Post
You must have a 2017 or earlier car.
I would like to understand why BMW changed the manual for 2018 and only recommend 0-20 or 0-30. As far as I know the engine in 2028 didn't change from prior MY's.

I would like to use 5w-40 which is what my tuner is recommending (Motul or Liqui Moly) but am slightly concerned that the engine is not built for such heavy oil?? Quite confused at this point.
I have a 2016. My manual recommends 0W-20, but lists 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, and 5W-40 as "suitable replacements" in case I can't get LL-01 or LL-14 FE+. Does your manual not even list the other specs?
You're also in SoCal, I wouldn't sweat running 5W-40, but that's as thick as you can go.
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