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      05-20-2020, 01:27 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjd_F30 View Post
navardi Couple things to add after doing more research. Looks like the MHI turbo uses the stock turbine size so I'll probably have to go with pure stage 2 or something similar to get a bigger compressor and turbine.

Also: I talked to Cary Jordan and he's saying that the stock sleeves will be fine at 400whp. Would be a nice way to save some cash if that's the case, as sleeves will certainly be a ton of labor, and the parts aren't chump change either. What are your thoughts on NOT doing sleeves and leaving the block as is? Other than that, he pretty much recommended all the stuff that you did, plus potentially looking at an upgraded radiator.
Hey mate I'll answer a few of your questions,
Main studs are the bolts/studs that hold the crankshaft in, headstuds hold the cylinder head down. Two separate ends of the motor.

Cut ring head gasket can be found on a few websites but vac Motorsports sells it.

Sleeving isn't necessary for your power option but since you have to hone the block for new pistons to be installed, you remove the Factory plasma arc coating this coating is cheaper to have applied than installing sleeves from a factory perspective. The main reason why a plasma arc coating or sleeves are used is because the block is aluminium and you can't run piston rings in a aluminium bore it won't seal properly, it will also wear prematurely etc. In the aftermarket scene you will find it hard to find someone to do plasma arc coating and if you can it most likely will be more expensive than installing sleeves hence why I recommend sleeves. Another reason why I recommend sleeves it's due to the fact it strengthens the cylinders up meaning they won't wobble under high cylinder pressures causing the headgasket to fail i.e running high boost. Closed decking is abit overkill for your build requirements, usually if you run sleeves you don't need the deck closed up but running both is still better than not running both.

As for turbos you did correct yourself but I think alot of people misinterpret the MHI turbo... It's a stage 1 turbo with a new exhaust housing and wastegate etc. Stage 2 turbos there aren't alot of them around currently and the ones that are... They're almost as expensive as a garret GTX turbo etc. Hence why I built my own stage 2 turbo. I have heard Mossleman is making a stage 2 turbo and so is Vargus Turbo tech but I don't know when that will happen. Mamba turbo sell a stage 1.5 ish turbo it runs a stage 1 compressor wheel but runs a stage 2 turbine wheel, it's heaps cheaper than all the other options on the market and if you wanted to you could upgrade the compressor wheel to match a stage 2 for $300 more, just buy the compressor wheel (the one I linked on the first page of this thread) and get a turbo shop to fit it and machine the compressor housing.


For your power goals yes the hpfp will be fine.

LPFP upgrade is going to be required for the larger turbo, and Cary Jordan is a great tuner he's doing my stage 3 tune and has been showing really good customer service skills and good results the tune isn't polished yet but I can see he's very competent with tuning the n20 especially built motors.

Last edited by navardi; 05-21-2020 at 12:21 AM..
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      05-20-2020, 02:26 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
Hey mate I'll answer a few of your questions,
Main studs are the bolts/studs that hold the crankshaft in, headstuds hold the cylinder head down. Two separate ends of the motor.

Cut ring head gasket can be found on a few websites but vac Motorsports sells it.

Sleeving isn't necessary for your power option but since you have to hone the block for new pistons to be installed, you remove the Factory plasma arc coating this coating is cheaper to have applied than installing sleeves from a factory perspective. The main reason why a plasma arc coating or sleeves are used is because the block is aluminium and you can't run piston rings in a aluminium bore it won't seal properly, it will also wear prematurely etc. In the aftermarket scene you will find it hard to find someone to do plasma arc coating and if you can it most likely will be more expensive than installing sleeves hence why I recommend sleeves. Another reason why I recommend sleeves it's due to the fact it strengthens the cylinders up meaning they won't wobble under high cylinder pressures causing the headgasket to fail i.e running high boost. Closed decking is abit overkill for your build requirements, usually if you run sleeves you don't need the deck closed up but running both is still better than not running both.

As for turbos you did correct yourself but I think alot of people misinterpret the MHI turbo... It's a stage 1 turbo with a new exhaust housing and wastegate etc. Stage 2 turbos they're aren't alot of them around currently and the ones that are... They're almost as expensive as a garret GTX turbo etc. Hence why I built my own stage 2 turbo. I have heard Mossleman is making a stage 2 turbo and so is Vargus Turbo tech but I don't know when that will happen. Mamba turbo sell a stage 1.5 ish turbo it runs a stage 1 compressor wheel but runs a stage 2 turbine wheel, it's heaps cheaper than all the other options on the market and if you wanted to you could upgrade the compressor wheel to match a stage 2 for $300 more, just buy the compressor wheel (the one I linked on the first page of this thread) and get a turbo shop to fit it and machine the compressor housing.


For your power goals yes the hpfp will be fine.

LPFP upgrade is going to be required for the larger turbo, and Cary Jordan is a great tuner he's doing my stage 3 tune and has been showing really good customer service skills and good results the tune isn't polished yet but I can see he's very competent with tuning the n20 especially built motors.
Awesome, thanks again for all the input. Pretty comfortable with my shopping list at this point thanks to all the info here, but will probably reach out again at some point with more questions down the road though, just a heads up
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      05-21-2020, 12:21 AM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjd_F30 View Post
Awesome, thanks again for all the input. Pretty comfortable with my shopping list at this point thanks to all the info here, but will probably reach out again at some point with more questions down the road though, just a heads up
No worries man, feel free to reach out at anytime.
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      06-14-2020, 08:45 PM   #92
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Small Update.

I now offer Custom Tuning Via the BM3 platform, specializing in the N20, but i also offer tunes for the B48 and N55, more motors to come in the future.
https://www.navardituned.com/
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      06-14-2020, 09:44 PM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
I now offer Custom Tuning Via the BM3 platform, specializing in the N20, but i also offer tunes for the B48 and N55, more motors to come in the future.
https://www.navardituned.com/
Hey bro , quick question. With an N20, what's the type of tuning in terms of power one could grab without a bigger turbo? Say like, what's the difference between a BM3 Stage 1/2 tune, and a custom one? Nice work btw.
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      06-14-2020, 11:10 PM   #94
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Originally Posted by Steakpizza View Post
Hey bro , quick question. With an N20, what's the type of tuning in terms of power one could grab without a bigger turbo? Say like, what's the difference between a BM3 Stage 1/2 tune, and a custom one? Nice work btw.
I know you're not asking me but I'm gonna answer anyway

Not much to be gained over BM3 stage 2 with a custom tune, assuming identical hardware. If BM3 could've made more power without sacrificing reliability they would've done it. Now, you could go and have a custom tune made that pushes way too much boost and make more power, but you'll also blow your engine.
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      06-16-2020, 06:05 AM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjd_F30 View Post
I know you're not asking me but I'm gonna answer anyway

Not much to be gained over BM3 stage 2 with a custom tune, assuming identical hardware. If BM3 could've made more power without sacrificing reliability they would've done it. Now, you could go and have a custom tune made that pushes way too much boost and make more power, but you'll also blow your engine.
Whilst you are correct, the one advantage of custom tunes over OTS ones is you can tune for local conditions (your altitude, fuel quality etc.).

But beyond stage 1 or 2 a custom is the way to go, you also don't get E40, E50, E60 etc or
Full E85 or race gas from off the shelf tunes.


Hopefully this clarifies Custom vs OTS
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      06-16-2020, 07:52 AM   #96
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Hi navardi - could you share the intake tube and air filter lenght and diameter ? I own 320i N20 with sport catted downpipe, external oil cooler, tuning intercooler and stage 2 hybrid turbo. Car soon will be custom tuned up to 350-400 bhp range for a start, but I was wondering if cold air intake could help to boost some more extra hp ( and beefy sound btw. ) Best Regards
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      06-16-2020, 10:39 PM   #97
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Originally Posted by Zagloba View Post
Hi navardi - could you share the intake tube and air filter lenght and diameter ? I own 320i N20 with sport catted downpipe, external oil cooler, tuning intercooler and stage 2 hybrid turbo. Car soon will be custom tuned up to 350-400 bhp range for a start, but I was wondering if cold air intake could help to boost some more extra hp ( and beefy sound btw. ) Best Regards
Doesn't really add HP, but sound and response yeah it does.

basically i took the FTP Intlet pipe rotated it 90 degrees (so the pipe was facing upwards) 3D printed a bracket so i could still secure it to the turbo housing. then ran some custom 3 inch aluminium intercooler/intake piping and ran it under the bonnet latch of the Drivers side of the car (RHD car ) then stuck the K&N RR3003 pod filter to the end of it which you can see from the kidney grille (similar to how the M3 Intake kits have pod filters in the kidney grilles) i 3D printed a custom MAF sensor bracket for the intake and extended the MAF harness to reach.
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      06-18-2020, 04:50 AM   #98
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Thank you for detailled answer. Could you also take some close-up photos of the intake?

BTW. my car is LHD, I would love to make identicall intake as yours, any suggestions ? Also any thoughts about differences between Ram Intake filter and mushroom intake filter ? Which one would you recommend ?
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      06-18-2020, 08:21 PM   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zagloba View Post
Hi navardi - could you share the intake tube and air filter lenght and diameter ? I own 320i N20 with sport catted downpipe, external oil cooler, tuning intercooler and stage 2 hybrid turbo. Car soon will be custom tuned up to 350-400 bhp range for a start, but I was wondering if cold air intake could help to boost some more extra hp ( and beefy sound btw. ) Best Regards
350-400 on a 320i? Nice!
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Sounds pizzagatey.
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      06-26-2020, 02:23 AM   #100
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zagloba View Post
Thank you for detailled answer. Could you also take some close-up photos of the intake?

BTW. my car is LHD, I would love to make identicall intake as yours, any suggestions ? Also any thoughts about differences between Ram Intake filter and mushroom intake filter ? Which one would you recommend ?
Currently no i don't have photos and the motor is out of the car currently, however there is a photo on page 2 of the pod filter in the kidney grille area (its on the wrong side in the photo) however, the idea of my intake was to make it as a direct route from the turbo as possible. I will try and organise something in the near future for photos, and i might try and look at adding it to the list of products to sell for the N20 😉
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      06-27-2020, 05:15 AM   #101
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Garage List
Hey navardi So... I'm digging around and found this little dealy on the mamba-tek site. Am I still going to have to mill out my exhaust housing for this thing to fit properly. and could you please provide a link to the thrust bearing you used? I'm just trying to get to about 350whp, I've done the supporting mods already. (internally and externally)

https://shop.mambatek.com/9-11-Extre...P-038-0263.htm
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      06-28-2020, 02:32 AM   #102
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Originally Posted by LordRuxpin View Post
Hey navardi So... I'm digging around and found this little dealy on the mamba-tek site. Am I still going to have to mill out my exhaust housing for this thing to fit properly. and could you please provide a link to the thrust bearing you used? I'm just trying to get to about 350whp, I've done the supporting mods already. (internally and externally)

https://shop.mambatek.com/9-11-Extre...P-038-0263.htm
Hi mate,
you say internal mods, you have forged internals?

As for the mamba turbo, grab this one as it already has the exhaust housing machined for the larger turbine wheel, the link you provided above would require you to machine the exhaust housing out yourself which ends up being way more expensive than just buying the turbo in the link below.
https://shop.mambatek.com/9-11-Extre...?categoryId=-1

What i would also suggest is upgrading the Compressor wheel on this Mambatek Turbo to the one i linked in page 1 of this thread, reason being is the compressor wheel is smaller than the wheels used on the PS2 stage 2, Mossleman Stage 1 turbos (However the Turbine wheel whilst it has the same dimensions as the PS2 it has less blades which allows the turbo to flow more air, it will be slightly more laggy than the PS2 but around 200-300RPM at most, but it allows you to run peak boost all the way to 7K rpm. Less Back Pressure the better hence why i recommend the 9 Blade Turbine wheel over the 11 Blade Pure Turbos offer.

The advantage this Mambatek turbo has is the price of the turbo with the machined turbine housing, its substantially cheaper than the PS2 Turbo and even after the cost of machining the compressor cover and installing a larger wheel its still cheaper than the PS2 turbo.

You may need to get in contact with Mamba regarding the Bearings of this turbo i would assume Mambatek have upgraded them to the higher performance bearing kit.

However should you need it the link to the Upgraded thrust bearing kit is below
https://shop.mambatek.com/Turbo-Repa...?categoryId=-1

Any Further questions feel free to DM
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      06-28-2020, 08:00 AM   #103
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BMW N20 Intake Manifold Update & Port Injection Bracket Update.

BMW N20 Intake Manifold Update & Port Injection Bracket Update.

Howdy everyone I have been very busy designing a custom intake manifold for the N20 with integrated PI and DME Mounting, so far design phase is complete on the Manifold, testing is next we are working on making some prototypes and sorting out the manufacturing side of it.

A custom Intercooler to Intake manifold chargepipe will be required, however we are working on a solution to that for an "OFF THE SHELF" approach, but expect a longer lead time on that.

The PI Bracket has finished design phase and testing phase, we are now waiting on manufacturing and logistics before we look at selling it to the public, PI is very much required even on a stock car for those wanting to run mixes more than E50 and full E85 mixes at 22-23psi the high compression N20s (320i, 220i, 520i etc) can get away without PI on a stock motor and stock turbo as you run less boost. however turbo upgrades regardless require Supplementary fuelling for those high comp motors. Low comp motors regardless you need PI, i know some tuners offer Full E85 on stock Low Comp N20s (228i, 328i, 428i etc) but they either run less boost or try to force the HPFP to deliver higher pressures which run beyond the manufacturers specs, so the lifespan of these pumps are greatly shortened.

If PI or the Intake Manifold is too expensive for some users,
Fuel-Its CPi Kit does work and BMS has firmware to enable the N20 JB4 and supplementary fuelling.

My N20 PI setups (PI Bracket or Manifold) will work with either JB4 PI Controller and N20 JB4 (you need to ask Terry for the firmware) or the AIC6 works too.

N55 PI Brackets do fit, however Cylinders 5 and 6 of the bracket must be cut off and the fuel rail shortened for it to fit.


Pricing TBD.

See page 4 of this thread for Pics of the PI Bracket.

Below are pics of the intake manifold.
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      06-28-2020, 08:57 AM   #104
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If you manage to integrate air to water intercooler into the intake manifold that would be interesting.
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      06-29-2020, 08:41 AM   #105
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Originally Posted by pierreye View Post
If you manage to integrate air to water intercooler into the intake manifold that would be interesting.
My focus is primarily N20, and converting the N20 to Air to Water is costly and not necessary.

If nothing happens to the B48 platform for Upgraded intercoolers then i might look into it
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      07-01-2020, 12:45 PM   #106
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
UPDATE:
...
Now whilst the engine was out, i installed a baffle to the factory sump and glued it into place using 250C oil resistant RTV, grabbed a used crankshaft off ebay that had 32000kms.
...
Photo installing the Tomei Universal oil pan baffle, please note! Only one baffle is needed since the way the pump and pickup sit in the sump, and given its location a baffle is actually only needed in the spot shown in the photo, the baffle will need to have its height reduced by half as it will contact the oil pump and you'll have issues putting everything together, also glued a magnet to the oil drain plug! Hate working with plastics... But challenge accepted!
It looks like the baffle is installed to the left of the pump pickup. AFAICT that means it will only help with right hand turns. Does this do anything for low pressure under braking or left hand turns? Or am I reading the picture incorrectly?
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      07-02-2020, 02:05 AM   #107
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ScottSmith View Post
It looks like the baffle is installed to the left of the pump pickup. AFAICT that means it will only help with right hand turns. Does this do anything for low pressure under braking or left hand turns? Or am I reading the picture incorrectly?
Hi Scott,
Thanks for picking up on that mistake! Didn't realise i had leftout some information, after i wrote that, i ended up updating my design, its extremely tight to fit baffles in there in the first place and the "right side cornering" is more of an issue than left which is why i emphasize more on having a baffle plate there, however to fix the leftside cornering (i have heard of low oil pressure issues from either high G left or Right cornering)i managed to install another tomei Universal baffle plate to the right side of the baffle and had to modify it abit to fit, i siliconed it in and used the plate to "baffle" those recessed holes as such to limit the amount of oil that flows in there under left cornering. I don't have a photo of the final design as its on the engine still, however i have a mock-up photo before i cut the plate.

To install the baffle plate on the right side i cut about 10mm off the top so it sits just below the top of the sump, then i cut the baffle plate not quite in half as the sumps molded shape for the bolts is in the way, essentially making 1 baffle plate into 2 smaller plates then proceeded to use high temp oil resistant RTV to bond them in place.


As for braking the factory sump is set up well enough to maintain oil near the pickup during braking, there is also no room to even add a baffle if you wanted to without a custom sump.

Let me know if you have anymore questions and i'll update the previous post to reflect the new information.

Thanks mate, below is a pick of the update design.
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      07-10-2020, 02:13 PM   #108
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navardi
about Fasten torque for head studs, how many ft-lbs for fasten?
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      07-11-2020, 02:33 AM   #109
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Quote:
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navardi
about Fasten torque for head studs, how many ft-lbs for fasten?
Factory or ARP headbolts/studs?

Factory refer to the TIS manual as I'm not sure i know its got a jointing torque and angle of rotation www.newtis.info is the link.

If its the same ARP headstuds i have 95LB-FT in 3 equal stages however if you have a different set of ARP headstuds please refer to their appropriate instructions.
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      07-13-2020, 04:53 PM   #110
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
Factory or ARP headbolts/studs?

Factory refer to the TIS manual as I'm not sure i know its got a jointing torque and angle of rotation www.newtis.info is the link.

If its the same ARP headstuds i have 95LB-FT in 3 equal stages however if you have a different set of ARP headstuds please refer to their appropriate instructions.
ARP headstuds
I use ARP Head studs for N55 follow your recommend.
And you add timeserted on 4 conner or all point?

Last edited by Tuiman; 07-13-2020 at 05:03 PM..
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