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      11-21-2020, 04:21 PM   #133
Kel918
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Navardi I had an idea about what if I added an external wastegate to the turbine housing, that would be controlled to open at like 22 psi if I ony wanted to run 20 psi on the internally wastegated turbos ? or would 22 psi be ok without having to go to such lengths because a 0.41 A/R is ridiculously small. I thought it would have at least been .63
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      11-23-2020, 03:59 AM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kel918 View Post
Navardi I had an idea about what if I added an external wastegate to the turbine housing, that would be controlled to open at like 22 psi if I only wanted to run 20 psi on the internally wastegated turbos ? or would 22 psi be ok without having to go to such lengths because a 0.41 A/R is ridiculously small. I thought it would have at least been .63
Doing so creates a very inefficient setup on an already internally WG turbo (Adding a External WG to the Internal WG housing). This doesn't actually solve the A/R issue of the small Housing.

Really you need a bigger turbo, Whether that's a big Internally WG turbo like the Borg Warner EFR series, or an Externally WG Turbo with Custom Manifold (A turbo Example would be the Garret GTX 3071R). At this stage BM3 Hasn't released their EWG Delete for External WG Setups and No one has tried the Turbo Smart Electronic External WG controller on DME's that come factory with OE EWG setups.

TLDR, everyone needs to move away from the stock Frame turbos, to make more reliable power on these motors.

SPA, at this stage seem to be interested in working on a Custom Manifold to support Larger Internally WG setups. Before looking into External WG setups.
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      12-15-2020, 09:49 AM   #135
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Hi Navardi, I heard that you might know for sure which way the oil flows through the heat exchanger.

I have parts for an oil cooler but I want to add a thermostat when I install. I can't seem to find anything definitive
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      12-16-2020, 08:07 PM   #136
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Originally Posted by blumagic View Post
Hi Navardi, I heard that you might know for sure which way the oil flows through the heat exchanger.

I have parts for an oil cooler but I want to add a thermostat when I install. I can't seem to find anything definitive
Hey mate, I found out the hard way, I left the hoses off my oil housing adaptor plate, and with the ignition system disabled cranked the motor until oil started pouring out of the adaptor plate port.

Now for memory, since its been a long time since I did it. But the far right port (if looking at the oil filter housing head on) is the outlet port. I have checked some photos and they seem to suggest the same. (not at my car currently to check).
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      12-18-2020, 04:52 AM   #137
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Hi Guys,

yesterday I was diagnosed for my 320i f30 with the AT8 heat exchanger leaking coolant, because a plastic part of it cracked. Only the OEM part is available and the whole unit has to be replaced, which sucks really.

I am curious if the tune could be the reason for it? Could the coolant overheat due to the water pump being inefficient? My mechanic said that it is a very rare issue and implied that it cracked possibly due to temperature differential and right now in Poland it is around 0 degrees Celcius outside. I just would want to avoid such issues in the future.

Shall I upgrade the water pump to that of 328i, Navardi? Or was it just a bad luck random event? I am FBO with catless downpipe and upgraded FMIC. I think we chatted about my tune dyno curve some time ago.

Thanks for all the help.

Best regards
Wojtek
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      12-18-2020, 05:00 AM   #138
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Originally Posted by Naiters View Post
Hi Guys,

yesterday I was diagnosed for my 320i f30 with the AT8 heat exchanger leaking coolant, because a plastic part of it cracked. Only the OEM part is available and the whole unit has to be replaced, which sucks really.

I am curious if the tune could be the reason for it? Could the coolant overheat due to the water pump being inefficient? My mechanic said that it is a very rare issue and implied that it cracked possibly due to temperature differential and right now in Poland it is around 0 degrees Celcius outside. I just would want to avoid such issues in the future.

Shall I upgrade the water pump to that of 328i, Navardi? Or was it just a bad luck random event? I am FBO with catless downpipe and upgraded FMIC. I think we chatted about my tune dyno curve some time ago.

Thanks for all the help.

Best regards
Wojtek
Have you got a photo of the part that cracked?
Old Part number of the Coolant Thermostat was known to be faulty. since 2015 BMW replaced it with a new part number. Water Pump hasn't been a known issue, and I doubt it was the cause of the issue in this instance. Sounds like heat cycles on the plastic has caused fatigue or that you might just have had a defective piece from factory.

You could just move to an external AT Cooler and then move to an aluminium Upgraded Radiator, to eliminate the plastic.
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      12-18-2020, 05:07 AM   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
Have you got a photo of the part that cracked?
Old Part number of the Coolant Thermostat was known to be faulty. since 2015 BMW replaced it with a new part number. Water Pump hasn't been a known issue, and I doubt it was the cause of the issue in this instance. Sounds like heat cycles on the plastic has caused fatigue or that you might just have had a defective piece from factory.

You could just move to an external AT Cooler and then move to an aluminium Upgraded Radiator, to eliminate the plastic.
Thank you Navardi for a qucik reply. I don't have a picture right now but I could ask my mechanic if needed since the car is at their service centre right now.

Do you think that a new OEM unit would be a better bet now? For the AT cooler, do you have any suggestions? It would be installed in place of the current heat exchanger?

I am prrety sure this black plastic part cracked:

View post on imgur.com


Best regards
Wojtek
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      12-27-2020, 07:21 AM   #140
navardi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Naiters View Post
Thank you Navardi for a qucik reply. I don't have a picture right now but I could ask my mechanic if needed since the car is at their service centre right now.

Do you think that a new OEM unit would be a better bet now? For the AT cooler, do you have any suggestions? It would be installed in place of the current heat exchanger?

I am prrety sure this black plastic part cracked:

View post on imgur.com


Best regards
Wojtek

You could go with a custom external cooler setup? but as I said very uncommon failure on these cars, so a stock replacement should be fine
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      12-27-2020, 11:21 AM   #141
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
Hey mate, I found out the hard way, I left the hoses off my oil housing adaptor plate, and with the ignition system disabled cranked the motor until oil started pouring out of the adaptor plate port.

Now for memory, since its been a long time since I did it. But the far right port (if looking at the oil filter housing head on) is the outlet port. I have checked some photos and they seem to suggest the same. (not at my car currently to check).
Thanks, just to be sure, by output you mean “to the cooler”?

Just making sure it wouldn’t be the cooler output.
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      01-05-2021, 06:09 AM   #142
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blumagic View Post
Thanks, just to be sure, by output you mean “to the cooler”?

Just making sure it wouldn’t be the cooler output.
Sorry for the delayed response, By output yes I mean to the cooler
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      01-16-2021, 12:06 PM   #143
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Quote:
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provided they're the correct N55 ones, as the ones i bought ended up being the N54 ones.

If they're the correct N55 ones (as in theyre closer to 170mm total length) then Torque to 95 LB-FTs in 3 equal steps, and run the motor once let it heat up, then remove valve cover and re-check TQ on the studs. Due to clearance issues i couldn't install the studs with washers.

for corner holes must be timeserted and the cylinder head holes need to be enlarged abit to fit the bigger studs. you will also need to make new alignment dowels in the block to correctly align the head to the block.

I ordered N55 studs from VAC and received the N54 ones... hopefully you don't have that, otherwise all 10 holes must be timeserted. to fit the studs.
95LB-FT only? Without angle?
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      01-16-2021, 08:54 PM   #144
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Originally Posted by Tuiman View Post
95LB-FT only? Without angle?
the ARP studs aren't Torque to yield like factory so no Jointing TQ and Angle of rotation required. IMO ARP studs are superior to the one time use Factory studs
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