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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N47 and N57 Turbodiesel Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > 328d racechip
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      07-15-2016, 07:47 AM   #177
jww///95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ponch
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Originally Posted by kevinmac View Post
I tried to find someone who would do a ecu remap for the 328d in US, specifically Southern Cal. A remap is the key in tuning things right and will give you the best output. Anyone have any luck or any suggestions? Thx
i just got mine done this monday. I installed downpipe then took it in to Alex at Mission Performance. I cant believe the difference the 4 banger with a good tune can do. I would recommend. I put this thing in sport+ and light them tires up....
Awesome!

Any dyno plots to share?

Where did you source the downpipe?
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      07-19-2016, 07:22 PM   #178
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Upgrading to meth now. No problems with 410 hp and 760 mm tourge for a year now. I do have a lower tourge profile on first and second gear though. 335d f31
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      11-27-2016, 05:01 PM   #179
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Hey all,
I'm new to the 328d scene, having mine for about 3 weeks now. But I'm not new to the chipping scene. I've "chipped" every vehicle I've owned for the better part of 20 years now. Chipped translating to using chips/programmers/flashing ECU's.

A couple of things here to add. I read through EVERY post on this thread. In all the research and discussions with vendors I read about, I don't recall anything from anyone about engine and drivetrain component design and thresholds.
The only information I've been able to find so far is that the 328d runs 15 (or 16 I forget) to 1 compression. But no where and from no one have I read whether the crankshaft is cast or forged. Same thing about rods and pistons.
Why does that matter? It tells how solid the engine is made vs how it's tuned from the factory. Is it already tuned out, or is it way under tuned.
What about valve train? Although not as critical unless you are really winding it out...but still important.
What about injectors. I read a couple of entries that discussed how fragile they were. But no one knows how much of the duty cycle is being pushed.
What about fuel pumps? What technology is used? How much additional pressure can it sustain with out fatigue, causing failure?
I find it shocking that as much enthusiasm as I've read here about the products, no one has chased this down to know for their own piece of mind how close they are/aren't to truly causing engine/drivetrain harm.

One thing to take into consideration is altitude. If you are at a lower altitude, you get more of the true numbers the vendor claims. But at the same token, the denser air increases danger for a tune. If you are like me at a mile high...then you have no air, so you get less from the tune, so it's even more "safe". Air density at higher elevation robs power and heat from the cylinders. Bummer...

For those that have question about what is better...chipping/piggybacking/tuning (aka "box pushers" because it's pre-programmed with a couple of options) vs ECU flashing.

You will NEVER get true tuning results from a box pusher. Why? Because they do their own tuning and have to come up with a best case scenario for a very wide range of scenarios. Wide range defined by altitude, fuel specs and quality, different bolt on mods....etc. Now why does THAT matter? Because they have to take all that research, then take the WORST CASE SCENARIO as their end result(safest) to market a successful product, as well as limit liability and build a reputation.

An ECU flash, done RIGHT, will be specific to X engine with X bolt on. The ECU author will have spent HUNDREDS of hours if not thousands data logging and modifying the tune driving under different conditions while using different fuel octanes. Then to boot, you provide your elevation and they incorporate that into the tune as well. And if you can take that one step further, they apply the flashed ECU to your specific car, and dyno it to "perfection".

From the experience I've had, I've seen drive train damage, but never engine damage from box pushers. Typically from modified shift points and pressure...causing premature failure. The only caveat to that is with a couple of extreme tuners that allow for pretty liberal and "at your own risk" tuning.

All that aside, historically, diesel engines are typically very strong/solid platforms. And looking at all these listed chips/tuners, I don't see massive gains. So I would be shocked to discover that any of them would put our engines in harms way. Transmissions....maybe.

Anyway, that is just me speaking from my own experiences with MANY vehicles and motorcycles. Again, I do NOT know this engine yet. But it's all relative, and I can't imagine that these box pushers would be any different.

For me, from the research I've done on this thread and forum, as well as my own... Here is my take on it. If you plan on pushing your car HARD, and CONSTANTLY...You should go with the ECU flash. Hands down. Because that is going to be the most tailored to your vehicle build, and will be by far the safest. Warranty smoranty. If you are wanting to do this and you are worried about your warranty. You should wait.

If you are just looking for a little more spunk without spending a lot of extra coin on the product or dyno tuning...and you are ok with a cookie cutter tune, I think that the RC CR Ultimate, or Chipwerke diesel pro are the best bang for the buck (numbers wise). Although I would like to compare the visual mapping of each. Paying all that extra scratch for the others because they offer warranty. That's fool's talk, because they are selling the same spec tune as the others. Which once again, should be well within the safe tolerance of the engine. If you have failure, then most likely you are using the wrong solution. Aside from that, the vendor is still once again going to do everything in their power to avoid paying it out. (passing blame)

I would also plan on running Power Services Diesel Kleen cetain booster in the white bottle. This adds additional lube to the injectors for smoother and quieter operation. Not to mention a little extra umph. With a 16 gallon tank, we should be able to very safely run 4 ounces per tank. This is slightly less than the ounce per gallon formula, but would still add benefit. Or if there is a different brand that is more recommended for BMW's, I'd love to hear about it.

Just my thoughts. I do like how much effort has been chased down with some of these vendors though.
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      12-05-2016, 06:07 PM   #180
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GraphicJunkie,

Very good advice, well thought out. But when you say:

"If you are just looking for a little more spunk without spending a lot of extra coin on the product or dyno tuning...and you are ok with a cookie cutter tune,"

I would add a note of caution...DMEs build up a datalog of performance history/parameters. If you drive your car consistently like a good citizen and then, for whatever reason, decide to go wild all of a sudden--mashing the accelerator to impress your date for instance--well, with a fuel rail booster PB your margin for error is greatly reduced. If the DME has difficulty managing/matching the new powertrain input with its database material and the PB activity is not what the DME is expecting, then theoretically the DME is more likely to react inappropriately. Your risk of powertrain dysfunction and/or damage goes up accordingly. That's how sheeit happens, seemingly "out of the blue" without any warning.
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      12-11-2016, 10:12 PM   #181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by graphicjunkie View Post
I would also plan on running Power Services Diesel Kleen cetain booster in the white bottle. This adds additional lube to the injectors for smoother and quieter operation. Not to mention a little extra umph. With a 16 gallon tank, we should be able to very safely run 4 ounces per tank. This is slightly less than the ounce per gallon formula, but would still add benefit. Or if there is a different brand that is more recommended for BMW's, I'd love to hear about it.

Just my thoughts. I do like how much effort has been chased down with some of these vendors though.
I run roughly 4-6oz every couple of tanks, the silver bottle, can't seem to find the white bottle around here, but I get a little better mileage but that's about it. I will say it quiets it down some in the summer, but with this colder weather we've been having down here, it stays above normal sound wise.
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      12-15-2016, 10:05 PM   #182
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stevehecht,
Although I don't claim to know everything, I have to say I don't buy into that.
Why? Because these transmissions make microsecond split decisions. My 1997 540i, 20 years ago, had something like 50 different shift modes it would assign, depending on the situation. That was pre steptronic... And going from mild to wild was never an issue, nor a mechanical fear. So I would find it extremely hard to believe that 20 years down the road, 20 YEARS of evolution in the performance science... That it would be any different.

Now having said all that, again...I don't claim to know everything. If you have data from BMW that validates that theory, I would love to read it. Seriously.

I have been searching for info on the engine/trans to find out what it can handle. I found the following info:

The 328d xdrive uses the ZF 8HP transmission, which is shared from the 1 series all the way up to the 750i, with a max tq capacity of 516 ft lbs. With an input torque range of 300 - 1000 Newton Meters.

I was able to find that the engine has a 16.5:1 compression, with forged crank, rods, and graphite plated pistons. It didn't state that they were forged...but I would be extremely hard pressed to believe that they wouldn't be. Cast pistons don't hold up too well to forced induction.

So although SO FAR this still isn't all that I was hoping to find out, it DOES answer some very critical questions that I've been wondering about, as well as what's been discussed in a thread about chipping.
All of the chips I've seen discussed are pushing the 328d less than 100 hp/ftlbs over stock.
This tells me that we are no where near pushing the engine or trans to breaking point. So occasionally "hammering" it with a whoppin 300 ft lbs shouldn't make the transmission even flinch.

Not to say that a bad tune can't cause damage. You can still melt down a piston pretty quick if the wrong air/fuel mixture is used. I wouldn't personally worry about breaking the crank or a rod, because being forged, that should But aside from that, it would appear that we have a very undertuned engine, and a hefty drive train behind it. Makes for a lot of potential.

still a lot to figure out. But at least some progress.
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      12-15-2016, 10:14 PM   #183
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adamr916 View Post
I run roughly 4-6oz every couple of tanks, the silver bottle, can't seem to find the white bottle around here, but I get a little better mileage but that's about it. I will say it quiets it down some in the summer, but with this colder weather we've been having down here, it stays above normal sound wise.
I can't believe you can't find this stuff in your area. Wow.
I live in a TINY town in Colorado, and it's in every gas station, parts store, and WALMART around.

I would buy it on line then. I ran the white bottle year round in my truck because of the added lubricity it offers the injectors. The economy and the power are perks, but the true benefit is in the lubricating the injectors from my understanding.
Cheap insurance.
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      07-13-2022, 09:51 PM   #184
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Racechip for 328d

I got the racechip gts black for my 2016 328d wagon LCI with the N47. The Racechip comes preloaded with 3 modes for your car. You can also dial up the power on each of the three settings using the fine tunning option in the app. You have eco, sport, and race modes. I had the tuning box installed by Bimmerworks in West chester pa. The map/tune racechip initially provided for the n47 engine platform pretty quickly threw the check engine light in race mode. I cleared the code and, changed to sport mode, threw the check engine light again. Put the racechip in eco and still threw the code. For each of the three settings (eco/sport/race) I ran a rough test. I drove for about 750 miles in each mode, and all pre-mapped settings threw the code. Seemed to happen under higher loads. Not necessarily high rpm. for example. I did a long low rpm pull as I was merging with a full car of passengers and it threw the code. another instance I was going up a very long hill with a few people in the car and had the chip in eco mode and the car threw the check engine light.

I read the codes and it was throw a few DDE codes, and SCR code and a few other strange codes.

-engine DDE Diesel electronics: fuel injection rate too low compared to lambada value and air mass.
--measured air mass too high
--rail pressure control,quantity controlled: rail pressure too low
--zero quantity adaptation: maximum period exceeded until active

The other category was regarding the SCR- Return Pump: Taught in volume is outside permitted range.

Other codes were thrown for the Front electronic module: welcome light repeat lock active. I got a code for the allround-view camera TRSVC.

I reached out to Rachechip with photos of the codes and they dialed back the tune, and I could feel almost no difference in the power output after the dial back. Pre-dial back of the tune, there was a nice power gain. After the dialback, power gian felt negligible but did not thow a code. I asked racechip to increase the power output a bit to see if it would throw codes again and it did, in all settings. In the repsonse email raceship expressed they will not make any further changes to my tuning box. They can push specific updates to your box.

All in all I dont think I would recommend it. Kerma TDI seems to have more data out there about their tune. Might go there next.
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