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      12-26-2019, 06:30 AM   #1
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40k mile maintenance

Hey guys,
I'm nearing 40,000 miles on my 2017 N20 320i. I got out of my maintenance warranty at 36k- which is the standard. I'm absolutely clueless as to what I need to do now. I'm going to do an oil change soon,, change the oil filter, change the engine air filter, change the cabin filter. Anything else I need to do?
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      12-26-2019, 08:32 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Hey guys,
I'm nearing 40,000 miles on my 2017 N20 320i. I got out of my maintenance warranty at 36k- which is the standard. I'm absolutely clueless as to what I need to do now. I'm going to do an oil change soon,, change the oil filter, change the engine air filter, change the cabin filter. Anything else I need to do?
See if aFe makes a Pro Dry engine air filter for your engine. Less restrictive than stock and lifetime filter because you can wash with soap and water. Never oil it. Save old filter to pop in while aFe is sitting out drying after a wash.

Corteco makes a high quality cabin filter for less $ than stock. Surprisingly dealer wiper blades weren't overpriced so I stick with them.

Always watch your tire air pressure and rotate approximately every 6k miles. Buy a cheap tire tread depth gauge at an auto parts store. Jot down the remaining tread depth in each groove across each tire. That way you can spot irregular wear due to improper air pressure. And you will be able to plan on new tires when you get down to 4/32" or so.

There are many tire (and wheel) options. Regardless, I recommend taking the opportunity to upgrade to a slightly wider tire for better handing and comfort. For instance my stock tires were 225/45-18. I kept my stock wheels and installed tires that are 245/40-18. This gave me much better handling and stability. I also could have chosen 245/45-18 for an even more comfortable ride and it would have filled the wheel gap a bit, providing the illusion that the car was lowered slightly.

I've become a convert to goflat tires, rather than runflats. The ride over smooth and rough roads is so much better. My favorite tires are:
summer- Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
winter- Michelin X-ICE Xi3
all season- Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+
It's not that I fancy Michelin. Those happened to be the best in fitting my needs when I researched each category.

Replace brake fluid every 2 years regardless of miles for safety since brake fluid picks up moisture. Keep an eye on remaining brake pad thickness. If/when you need new pads, consider Hawk 5.0. They are superior to stock in every category. You can feel the difference. Also Zimmermann are high quality German brake rotors that are less costly than BMW. Consider upgrading brake rubber hoses to stainless steel brake lines at same time as fluid replacement since labor overlaps so extra labor would be minimal. A StopTech set of four stainless lines is only about $106. It takes the mushiness away and provides a more solid brake pedal feel.

Hope this helps!
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      12-26-2019, 08:45 AM   #3
johnung
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Hey guys,
I'm nearing 40,000 miles on my 2017 N20 320i. I got out of my maintenance warranty at 36k- which is the standard. I'm absolutely clueless as to what I need to do now. I'm going to do an oil change soon,, change the oil filter, change the engine air filter, change the cabin filter. Anything else I need to do?
FYI- if you aren't doing all of the work yourself, the BimmerShops website can be a good source of independent BMW service shops in your area.
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      12-26-2019, 11:47 AM   #4
Ishan99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Hey guys,
I'm nearing 40,000 miles on my 2017 N20 320i. I got out of my maintenance warranty at 36k- which is the standard. I'm absolutely clueless as to what I need to do now. I'm going to do an oil change soon,, change the oil filter, change the engine air filter, change the cabin filter. Anything else I need to do?
See if aFe makes a Pro Dry engine air filter for your engine. Less restrictive than stock and lifetime filter because you can wash with soap and water. Never oil it. Save old filter to pop in while aFe is sitting out drying after a wash.

Corteco makes a high quality cabin filter for less $ than stock. Surprisingly dealer wiper blades weren't overpriced so I stick with them.

Always watch your tire air pressure and rotate approximately every 6k miles. Buy a cheap tire tread depth gauge at an auto parts store. Jot down the remaining tread depth in each groove across each tire. That way you can spot irregular wear due to improper air pressure. And you will be able to plan on new tires when you get down to 4/32" or so.

There are many tire (and wheel) options. Regardless, I recommend taking the opportunity to upgrade to a slightly wider tire for better handing and comfort. For instance my stock tires were 225/45-18. I kept my stock wheels and installed tires that are 245/40-18. This gave me much better handling and stability. I also could have chosen 245/45-18 for an even more comfortable ride and it would have filled the wheel gap a bit, providing the illusion that the car was lowered slightly.

I've become a convert to goflat tires, rather than runflats. The ride over smooth and rough roads is so much better. My favorite tires are:
summer- Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
winter- Michelin X-ICE Xi3
all season- Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+
It's not that I fancy Michelin. Those happened to be the best in fitting my needs when I researched each category.

Replace brake fluid every 2 years regardless of miles for safety since brake fluid picks up moisture. Keep an eye on remaining brake pad thickness. If/when you need new pads, consider Hawk 5.0. They are superior to stock in every category. You can feel the difference. Also Zimmermann are high quality German brake rotors that are less costly than BMW. Consider upgrading brake rubber hoses to stainless steel brake lines at same time as fluid replacement since labor overlaps so extra labor would be minimal. A StopTech set of four stainless lines is only about $106. It takes the mushiness away and provides a more solid brake pedal feel.

Hope this helps!
So I actually already have a K&N drop in filter but I don't need to clean it just yet. I'll check on it how were. I have the Michelin pilot sport a/s 3+ you mentioned and I do get them rotated when due. It's coming up soon. I also get my alignment balanced after every tire rotation. I saw that corteco air filter on FCP euro and I'm definitely going to purchase it. My brake fluid was changed at my last oil change- August- so I think I should be good for another year or so. I always keep my tires inflated to the factory recommendation. I feel like my brake pads may need to be replaced soon as I have started to hear a squeaking noise. But I'm not sure because the light hasn't come on the car. I will definitely consider getting new brake lines when I have to change my brakes. But like I said, I'm not sure if it's time yet. I'll get that tool that tells you the thickness and I'll go from there. The light hasn't come up on the car so I think I still have some time.
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Former: 2004 BMW E46 325i
Current: 2017 BMW F30 320i
Follow @Black_Lux_Cars on IG
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      12-26-2019, 05:37 PM   #5
johnung
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Hey guys,
I'm nearing 40,000 miles on my 2017 N20 320i. I got out of my maintenance warranty at 36k- which is the standard. I'm absolutely clueless as to what I need to do now. I'm going to do an oil change soon,, change the oil filter, change the engine air filter, change the cabin filter. Anything else I need to do?
See if aFe makes a Pro Dry engine air filter for your engine. Less restrictive than stock and lifetime filter because you can wash with soap and water. Never oil it. Save old filter to pop in while aFe is sitting out drying after a wash.

Corteco makes a high quality cabin filter for less $ than stock. Surprisingly dealer wiper blades weren't overpriced so I stick with them.

Always watch your tire air pressure and rotate approximately every 6k miles. Buy a cheap tire tread depth gauge at an auto parts store. Jot down the remaining tread depth in each groove across each tire. That way you can spot irregular wear due to improper air pressure. And you will be able to plan on new tires when you get down to 4/32" or so.

There are many tire (and wheel) options. Regardless, I recommend taking the opportunity to upgrade to a slightly wider tire for better handing and comfort. For instance my stock tires were 225/45-18. I kept my stock wheels and installed tires that are 245/40-18. This gave me much better handling and stability. I also could have chosen 245/45-18 for an even more comfortable ride and it would have filled the wheel gap a bit, providing the illusion that the car was lowered slightly.

I've become a convert to goflat tires, rather than runflats. The ride over smooth and rough roads is so much better. My favorite tires are:
summer- Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
winter- Michelin X-ICE Xi3
all season- Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+
It's not that I fancy Michelin. Those happened to be the best in fitting my needs when I researched each category.

Replace brake fluid every 2 years regardless of miles for safety since brake fluid picks up moisture. Keep an eye on remaining brake pad thickness. If/when you need new pads, consider Hawk 5.0. They are superior to stock in every category. You can feel the difference. Also Zimmermann are high quality German brake rotors that are less costly than BMW. Consider upgrading brake rubber hoses to stainless steel brake lines at same time as fluid replacement since labor overlaps so extra labor would be minimal. A StopTech set of four stainless lines is only about $106. It takes the mushiness away and provides a more solid brake pedal feel.

Hope this helps!
So I actually already have a K&N drop in filter but I don't need to clean it just yet. I'll check on it how were. I have the Michelin pilot sport a/s 3+ you mentioned and I do get them rotated when due. It's coming up soon. I also get my alignment balanced after every tire rotation. I saw that corteco air filter on FCP euro and I'm definitely going to purchase it. My brake fluid was changed at my last oil change- August- so I think I should be good for another year or so. I always keep my tires inflated to the factory recommendation. I feel like my brake pads may need to be replaced soon as I have started to hear a squeaking noise. But I'm not sure because the light hasn't come on the car. I will definitely consider getting new brake lines when I have to change my brakes. But like I said, I'm not sure if it's time yet. I'll get that tool that tells you the thickness and I'll go from there. The light hasn't come up on the car so I think I still have some time.
Sounds like you've got it all under control. There's a brake pad sensor on the front and one on the back. They are one-time use so once they trigger, the sensor must be replaced. Lots of inexpensive replacements available. No need to panic when they trigger. Still have months of pad remaining. HaHa, not like the old days when you end up hearing that metal to metal grinding!
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      12-27-2019, 07:34 AM   #6
Ishan99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Hey guys,
I'm nearing 40,000 miles on my 2017 N20 320i. I got out of my maintenance warranty at 36k- which is the standard. I'm absolutely clueless as to what I need to do now. I'm going to do an oil change soon,, change the oil filter, change the engine air filter, change the cabin filter. Anything else I need to do?
See if aFe makes a Pro Dry engine air filter for your engine. Less restrictive than stock and lifetime filter because you can wash with soap and water. Never oil it. Save old filter to pop in while aFe is sitting out drying after a wash.

Corteco makes a high quality cabin filter for less $ than stock. Surprisingly dealer wiper blades weren't overpriced so I stick with them.

Always watch your tire air pressure and rotate approximately every 6k miles. Buy a cheap tire tread depth gauge at an auto parts store. Jot down the remaining tread depth in each groove across each tire. That way you can spot irregular wear due to improper air pressure. And you will be able to plan on new tires when you get down to 4/32" or so.

There are many tire (and wheel) options. Regardless, I recommend taking the opportunity to upgrade to a slightly wider tire for better handing and comfort. For instance my stock tires were 225/45-18. I kept my stock wheels and installed tires that are 245/40-18. This gave me much better handling and stability. I also could have chosen 245/45-18 for an even more comfortable ride and it would have filled the wheel gap a bit, providing the illusion that the car was lowered slightly.

I've become a convert to goflat tires, rather than runflats. The ride over smooth and rough roads is so much better. My favorite tires are:
summer- Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
winter- Michelin X-ICE Xi3
all season- Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+
It's not that I fancy Michelin. Those happened to be the best in fitting my needs when I researched each category.

Replace brake fluid every 2 years regardless of miles for safety since brake fluid picks up moisture. Keep an eye on remaining brake pad thickness. If/when you need new pads, consider Hawk 5.0. They are superior to stock in every category. You can feel the difference. Also Zimmermann are high quality German brake rotors that are less costly than BMW. Consider upgrading brake rubber hoses to stainless steel brake lines at same time as fluid replacement since labor overlaps so extra labor would be minimal. A StopTech set of four stainless lines is only about $106. It takes the mushiness away and provides a more solid brake pedal feel.

Hope this helps!
So I actually already have a K&N drop in filter but I don't need to clean it just yet. I'll check on it how were. I have the Michelin pilot sport a/s 3+ you mentioned and I do get them rotated when due. It's coming up soon. I also get my alignment balanced after every tire rotation. I saw that corteco air filter on FCP euro and I'm definitely going to purchase it. My brake fluid was changed at my last oil change- August- so I think I should be good for another year or so. I always keep my tires inflated to the factory recommendation. I feel like my brake pads may need to be replaced soon as I have started to hear a squeaking noise. But I'm not sure because the light hasn't come on the car. I will definitely consider getting new brake lines when I have to change my brakes. But like I said, I'm not sure if it's time yet. I'll get that tool that tells you the thickness and I'll go from there. The light hasn't come up on the car so I think I still have some time.
Sounds like you've got it all under control. There's a brake pad sensor on the front and one on the back. They are one-time use so once they trigger, the sensor must be replaced. Lots of inexpensive replacements available. No need to panic when they trigger. Still have months of pad remaining. HaHa, not like the old days when you end up hearing that metal to metal grinding!
So if I change my brake pads before the light comes on, does that mean I don't have to change the sensor?
__________________
Ishan Achar
Former: 2004 BMW E46 325i
Current: 2017 BMW F30 320i
Follow @Black_Lux_Cars on IG
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      12-27-2019, 10:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Hey guys,
I'm nearing 40,000 miles on my 2017 N20 320i. I got out of my maintenance warranty at 36k- which is the standard. I'm absolutely clueless as to what I need to do now. I'm going to do an oil change soon,, change the oil filter, change the engine air filter, change the cabin filter. Anything else I need to do?
See if aFe makes a Pro Dry engine air filter for your engine. Less restrictive than stock and lifetime filter because you can wash with soap and water. Never oil it. Save old filter to pop in while aFe is sitting out drying after a wash.

Corteco makes a high quality cabin filter for less $ than stock. Surprisingly dealer wiper blades weren't overpriced so I stick with them.

Always watch your tire air pressure and rotate approximately every 6k miles. Buy a cheap tire tread depth gauge at an auto parts store. Jot down the remaining tread depth in each groove across each tire. That way you can spot irregular wear due to improper air pressure. And you will be able to plan on new tires when you get down to 4/32" or so.

There are many tire (and wheel) options. Regardless, I recommend taking the opportunity to upgrade to a slightly wider tire for better handing and comfort. For instance my stock tires were 225/45-18. I kept my stock wheels and installed tires that are 245/40-18. This gave me much better handling and stability. I also could have chosen 245/45-18 for an even more comfortable ride and it would have filled the wheel gap a bit, providing the illusion that the car was lowered slightly.

I've become a convert to goflat tires, rather than runflats. The ride over smooth and rough roads is so much better. My favorite tires are:
summer- Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
winter- Michelin X-ICE Xi3
all season- Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+
It's not that I fancy Michelin. Those happened to be the best in fitting my needs when I researched each category.

Replace brake fluid every 2 years regardless of miles for safety since brake fluid picks up moisture. Keep an eye on remaining brake pad thickness. If/when you need new pads, consider Hawk 5.0. They are superior to stock in every category. You can feel the difference. Also Zimmermann are high quality German brake rotors that are less costly than BMW. Consider upgrading brake rubber hoses to stainless steel brake lines at same time as fluid replacement since labor overlaps so extra labor would be minimal. A StopTech set of four stainless lines is only about $106. It takes the mushiness away and provides a more solid brake pedal feel.

Hope this helps!
So I actually already have a K&N drop in filter but I don't need to clean it just yet. I'll check on it how were. I have the Michelin pilot sport a/s 3+ you mentioned and I do get them rotated when due. It's coming up soon. I also get my alignment balanced after every tire rotation. I saw that corteco air filter on FCP euro and I'm definitely going to purchase it. My brake fluid was changed at my last oil change- August- so I think I should be good for another year or so. I always keep my tires inflated to the factory recommendation. I feel like my brake pads may need to be replaced soon as I have started to hear a squeaking noise. But I'm not sure because the light hasn't come on the car. I will definitely consider getting new brake lines when I have to change my brakes. But like I said, I'm not sure if it's time yet. I'll get that tool that tells you the thickness and I'll go from there. The light hasn't come up on the car so I think I still have some time.
Sounds like you've got it all under control. There's a brake pad sensor on the front and one on the back. They are one-time use so once they trigger, the sensor must be replaced. Lots of inexpensive replacements available. No need to panic when they trigger. Still have months of pad remaining. HaHa, not like the old days when you end up hearing that metal to metal grinding!
So if I change my brake pads before the light comes on, does that mean I don't have to change the sensor?
Correct. The pad sensors are reusable until they are triggered
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      12-29-2019, 02:38 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnung View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ishan99 View Post
Hey guys,
I'm nearing 40,000 miles on my 2017 N20 320i. I got out of my maintenance warranty at 36k- which is the standard. I'm absolutely clueless as to what I need to do now. I'm going to do an oil change soon,, change the oil filter, change the engine air filter, change the cabin filter. Anything else I need to do?
See if aFe makes a Pro Dry engine air filter for your engine. Less restrictive than stock and lifetime filter because you can wash with soap and water. Never oil it. Save old filter to pop in while aFe is sitting out drying after a wash.

Corteco makes a high quality cabin filter for less $ than stock. Surprisingly dealer wiper blades weren't overpriced so I stick with them.

Always watch your tire air pressure and rotate approximately every 6k miles. Buy a cheap tire tread depth gauge at an auto parts store. Jot down the remaining tread depth in each groove across each tire. That way you can spot irregular wear due to improper air pressure. And you will be able to plan on new tires when you get down to 4/32" or so.

There are many tire (and wheel) options. Regardless, I recommend taking the opportunity to upgrade to a slightly wider tire for better handing and comfort. For instance my stock tires were 225/45-18. I kept my stock wheels and installed tires that are 245/40-18. This gave me much better handling and stability. I also could have chosen 245/45-18 for an even more comfortable ride and it would have filled the wheel gap a bit, providing the illusion that the car was lowered slightly.

I've become a convert to goflat tires, rather than runflats. The ride over smooth and rough roads is so much better. My favorite tires are:
summer- Michelin Pilot Sport 4S
winter- Michelin X-ICE Xi3
all season- Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3+
It's not that I fancy Michelin. Those happened to be the best in fitting my needs when I researched each category.

Replace brake fluid every 2 years regardless of miles for safety since brake fluid picks up moisture. Keep an eye on remaining brake pad thickness. If/when you need new pads, consider Hawk 5.0. They are superior to stock in every category. You can feel the difference. Also Zimmermann are high quality German brake rotors that are less costly than BMW. Consider upgrading brake rubber hoses to stainless steel brake lines at same time as fluid replacement since labor overlaps so extra labor would be minimal. A StopTech set of four stainless lines is only about $106. It takes the mushiness away and provides a more solid brake pedal feel.

Hope this helps!
So I actually already have a K&N drop in filter but I don't need to clean it just yet. I'll check on it how were. I have the Michelin pilot sport a/s 3+ you mentioned and I do get them rotated when due. It's coming up soon. I also get my alignment balanced after every tire rotation. I saw that corteco air filter on FCP euro and I'm definitely going to purchase it. My brake fluid was changed at my last oil change- August- so I think I should be good for another year or so. I always keep my tires inflated to the factory recommendation. I feel like my brake pads may need to be replaced soon as I have started to hear a squeaking noise. But I'm not sure because the light hasn't come on the car. I will definitely consider getting new brake lines when I have to change my brakes. But like I said, I'm not sure if it's time yet. I'll get that tool that tells you the thickness and I'll go from there. The light hasn't come up on the car so I think I still have some time.
Sounds like you've got it all under control. There's a brake pad sensor on the front and one on the back. They are one-time use so once they trigger, the sensor must be replaced. Lots of inexpensive replacements available. No need to panic when they trigger. Still have months of pad remaining. HaHa, not like the old days when you end up hearing that metal to metal grinding!
So if I change my brake pads before the light comes on, does that mean I don't have to change the sensor?
Correct. The pad sensors are reusable until they are triggered
Sounds good! Thank you!!
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Former: 2004 BMW E46 325i
Current: 2017 BMW F30 320i
Follow @Black_Lux_Cars on IG
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