[mark_l]

Hi,

I'm going to be fitting a catch can to my car later this week, and I wanted to pop the intake off to see how bad the build up is. The car has just gone past 30k miles (mostly motorway driving) so I'm hoping it isn't too bad!

If the intake is bad I'll give it a clean out, and if the valves are bad I'll get a walnut blast done. Hopefully the catch can will then help keep it clean going forwards.

The problem is that I can't find a guide to removing the intake manifold anywhere. THere's lots of info about the M47 and M57 engines, but nothing I can find for the N57.

Does anyone know of a guide for this?

Thank you!

Mark

PS: Not sure how but it looks like I have managed to post this in the exhaust section, can someone please move it to the right place please?

[FaRKle!]

You can most likely find the procedure on NewTIS.

[mark_l]

Thank you!

[mark_l]

I've had a look through NewTis and I can find the procedure, but it looks like it's for an n47.

That isn't a huge issue as they are similar to the n57, except for the bolts right at the back.

Looks like I'll need to strip away a bunch of stuff to get to the last couple of bolts.

Btw.. my cars now got 30k miles on it, almost entirely motorway based and it's only ever been run on vpower.

Yet there's a good 5mm of build-up all around the point where the EGR connects to the manifold.

Disappointed to see this level of build-up already 🙄

[FaRKle!]

Originally Posted by mark_l

I've had a look through NewTis and I can find the procedure, but it looks like it's for an n47.

That isn't a huge issue as they are similar to the n57, except for the bolts right at the back.

The procedure is for the N57, although some graphics are of the N47 (and the procedure even states as such).

[Andy198712]

i followed that procedure and its correct. mines N57 but in a E91.

so the carbon build up on mine was worse where you state but actually very little in the actual manifold, i got about half a cup out in total which given the size of the manifold isnt much, say 0.5mm coating in there.....

i think it worse at the EGR as thats where the oil and soot mix and form the sludge, you should notice the rear cylinder ports are probably the muckiest ones due to them getting this mix first.

with removal, follow that guide to the T and get a torque wrench.

on massive tip is buy a release spray such a PlusGas ect not WD40 and start spraying the two E8 torq bits by the EGR cooler now and keep doing that every day for a couple days and be very careful removing them.... one of mine sheered the head off and the other rounded, then when i welded a nut to it, that sheered the head off that too.... 8 welded nuts later on the stubs of studs and i had to drill them both out.....

also another thing i wasted literally an hour on was the vacuum valve clipped to the back of the manifold, its tricky to get off, you need to depress the clip and slide the valve in the direction of the passenger wheel well, it'll make sense when you can feel it, as you wont be able to see it!

other then those two snags its just easy stuff but take your time.


i removed my swirl flaps and rod while i was in there (a code from them was why i did the task) and refitted the actuator which plugs the hole (note how the arm is hinged before removing it)
the car doesn't know their removed and has no codes now.


if you want any more questions just ask....

also what catch can are you planning on using?

Cheers

Andy

[mark_l]

Thank you for the advice.

I've settled on making do with cleaning out the manifold section where the EGR joins it. Was hoping it wasn't too bad in the actual manifold and from what you describe that might be the case 🤞

I know my limits and I don't really feel comfortable going any further and taking the whole manifold off on this engine.

It deffinately felt a bit crisper after cleaning out that section.

I've done a bit of testing with the Torque app and at WOT reving out I hit 285 g/s on the maf.

My old 320d N47 with a remap made approx 225 bhp at 190 g/s, so applying the same ratio (maf g/s X 1.19) I'm well over 300 bhp, possibly near 330 bhp.

Very rough and ready I know, but a really good indicator that it can't be too bad in there.

As for the catch can, it was an absolute ***** to fit.

https://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Aluminium-A....X15mm+ca.TRS0

It's an empty can, but it was pretty easy to rig up some internal baffling with some sheet aluminium, a stainless steel pan scourer and a bit of metal reinforced epoxy.

The real pain was finding a space for it. Settled on the spot to the right of the engine where (I think?) the power steering reservoir used to be.

Used 13mm ID fuel hose, which was a bit difficult to get on the 15m fittings, but it's deffinately not coming off! Also had to buy a new breather hose and butcher it to fit barbed connectors so I could push on the new hose on.

Also had to cut a bit out of the engine cover so it didn't rub on the new hoses, and of course there was making up some brackets to hold the can in place.

Due to space restrictions I couldn't get the can to sit completely vertical but it's near enough. I'd rather have a larger can with a bigger internal volume sitting a bit wonkey than a smaller one sitting completely upright.

All in all it took about 8 hours over a few evenings, but really happy with the results and it looks very stock.

[Joshd63]

Which article is it on NewTIS? Is it the 'remove intake plenum' one?

[Enabled]

I think closing/deleting the egr is enough to prevent buildup. The catch can is a bonus, sure, but the sludge/soot is due to egr.

[mark_l]

This is the procedure https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ifold/KvmflLpJ

IMHO you right about disabling the EGR. I looked at closing off/deleting the EGR in conjunction with a remap.I got as far as speaking to 3 different remapping companies and they all said that disabling the EGR completely is a really bad idea.

Apparently the EGR values are hooked up to just about everything and disabling it will cause all kinds of issues and stop the car from doing regens.

I've settled on the catch can and adjusting the EGR down as far as it will go with ISTA (used version 3.55 as v4.x didn't have the option).

After the adjustment in ISTA the EGR is open about 30% at idle instead of 48%, hoping this reduction and the catch can will combine to slow the CBU down/stop it.

[Andy198712]

yeah my tuner said they aid in regens via helping to raise exhaust temps i think he said.... either way, while my DPF is okay i don't see me getting rid of the EGR any time soon, and theres the MOT, you'd have to make it look sneaky....

[Enabled]

Well yea, if their egr delete consists of disconnect and disabling the resultant errors. That tends to disrupt many dependencies.
There are many methods for disabling, and even without interfering with dpf function.


8,000+ miles of egr disabled here, everything hooked up, and it's doing dpf regens as needed just fine. It has been logged and checked thoroughly. And this is on the Euro6-like setup that came on US N47.

[n00bkiller944]

Originally Posted by Enabled

Well yea, if their egr delete consists of disconnect and disabling the resultant errors. That tends to disrupt many dependencies.
There are many methods for disabling, and even without interfering with dpf function.


8,000+ miles of egr disabled here, everything hooked up, and it's doing dpf regens as needed just fine. It has been logged and checked thoroughly. And this is on the Euro6-like setup that came on US N47.

How are you logging your regens? That's pretty cool!