[johnung]

Originally Posted by ImBlue

I think you got the sizing wrong. I don't think there is a 370mm and 330mm front/rear combination

Base 40i cars with 340i stamped calipers have 340mm front rotors, 345mm rear rotors. Bigger caliper in front but slightly smaller front rotors.

F8x M3/M4 and 35i/40i with 370/380 stamped calipers have 370mm/380mm front rotors and 345mm rear rotors. M cars use the bigger 380mm front rotors since the hub mount is 10mm offset.

Great catch! Typo where I wrote 370 instead of 340. I corrected it. Geez! The 340/330 came stock on my own car! How'd I miss that. 🤷🏻*♂️

FYI- you mentioned the 370/380 calipers using the 380mm diameter rotors because of a 10mm offset on the hub. Actually it's 5mm further out from the hub. The additional 5mm radius adds 10mm to the diameter.

Take care!

[johnung]

Originally Posted by JNMNL52

Thanks for your very thorough response. This is the type of response I was seeking and I really appreciate it. I want to do this right, taking into consideration all of the inputs and experience that I have read about from the members, like yourself, in this forum. So, summarizing your response, to upgrade my brakes in the best manner for the street, I should consider purchasing my own brake upgrade kit to include new red M Performance calipers (if I can purchase separately), StopTech Crossdrilled rotors, Hawk 5.0 pads and SS brake lines. I will cost that out and see how it compares to the off the shelf M Performance Retrofit Kit - which costs $2,326 with rear rotors from GetBMWparts. I assume if I put together my own kit I would still need to code DSC?

You can't buy the red calipers separately from the kit. But I see them for sale used once in a while.

The M Performance Kit Installation Instructions say that the car needs to be coded afterwards. But since your car came stock with the 340 front calipers, your car doesn't need to be coded.

The factory brake bias code is exactly the same for the 340 and 370 calipers. It doesn't code for specific calipers. It's actually the bias between front and rear brakes. Whether brakes are 340/330 or 340/345 or 370/345, it's the same bias coding.

[BWbimmer]

Originally Posted by ImBlue

I think you got the sizing wrong. I don't think there is a 370mm and 330mm front/rear combination

Base 40i cars with 340i stamped calipers have 340mm front rotors, 345mm rear rotors. Bigger caliper in front but slightly smaller front rotors.

F8x M3/M4 and 35i/40i with 370/380 stamped calipers have 370mm/380mm front rotors and 345mm rear rotors. M cars use the bigger 380mm front rotors since the hub mount is 10mm offset.

The Base 40ix rotors are 340/330, the M Sport brakes are 370/345 front/rear

[BWbimmer]

Originally Posted by JNMNL52

Thanks for your very thorough response. This is the type of response I was seeking and I really appreciate it. I want to do this right, taking into consideration all of the inputs and experience that I have read about from the members, like yourself, in this forum. So, summarizing your response, to upgrade my brakes in the best manner for the street, I should consider purchasing my own brake upgrade kit to include new red M Performance calipers (if I can purchase separately), StopTech Crossdrilled rotors, Hawk 5.0 pads and SS brake lines. I will cost that out and see how it compares to the off the shelf M Performance Retrofit Kit - which costs $2,326 with rear rotors from GetBMWparts. I assume if I put together my own kit I would still need to code DSC?

Maybe the search would have helped as well. somebody did a great job describing the break options:

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ghlight=brakes

[ImBlue]

Originally Posted by BWbimmer

Maybe the search would have helped as well. somebody did a great job describing the break options:

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...ghlight=brakes

Reading the explanation in that thread for the rear calipers kern417 the posted different information in this thread from 2019. post #11.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1590916

I understand the bosch units are 330mm, the 2 piston brembo is 345mm so should be easy to tell by just looking at the rear of a base 40i.

[BWbimmer]

Originally Posted by ImBlue

Reading the explanation in that thread for the rear calipers kern417 the posted different information in this thread from 2019. post #11.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1590916

I understand the bosch units are 330mm, the 2 piston brembo is 345mm so should be easy to tell by just looking at the rear of a base 40i.

Yes, absolutely. The rear brake gives it away. Otherwise, a VIN decoder should not show "S2NH" which are the "bigger" brakes

[JNMNL52]

Originally Posted by johnung

Great catch! Typo where I wrote 370 instead of 340. I corrected it. Geez! The 340/330 came stock on my own car! How'd I miss that. 🤷🏻*♂️

FYI- you mentioned the 370/380 calipers using the 380mm diameter rotors because of a 10mm offset on the hub. Actually it's 5mm further out from the hub. The additional 5mm radius adds 10mm to the diameter.

Take care!

Yes I have the 340x30 fronts and 330x20 rears with the M Sport Trim package (P337A) w/ gray calipers. I do not have M Sport brake upgrade (S2NHA) nor the track handling package.

[JNMNL52]

Originally Posted by johnung

The noise that you've read about is caused by dimpled & slotted rotors. Slotted rotors are noisy and tear up pads. They are really designed for super high heat conditions on the track that can't be approached on the street.

Crossdrilled rotors have the best bite and best performance in rain. That's why you'll see crossdrilled on street performance cars from Porsche, Mercedes, McLaren, etc.

Your car has Front 370mm x 30mm and Rear 330mm x 20mm. [typo correction: Grey fronts are 340mm x 30mm]

The M Performance red calipers and the M Sport blue calipers for your car are identical. Front 370mm x 30mm and Rear 345mm x 24mm. M Performance also come in yellow or orange.

A set of used 370/345 blue calipers in great condition are about $1,100. A set of new 370/345 red calipers from the M Performance Kit are about $1,900 discounted at the GetBMWParts website. The kit also includes the BMW Front 370mm x 30mm dimpled/slotted rotors and all four sets of BMW brake pads.

IMO the dimpled/slotted are noisy/not much better bite than plain, and the BMW pads are no better than average. I'd sell them and buy StopTech Crossdrilled rotors and Hawk 5.0 pads. Both have superior bite.

Whether you go with new red or used blue 370/345 calipers, the front grey 340 calipers can be sold for about $400-$500 on the used market. The rear 330 might be worth $100-$200 if you can find someone with F312/R300 brakes who wants to upgrade to F340/R330. Used rotors have some value if you sell them locally. They are too heavy/costly to ship.

Another brake upgrade option is to keep the front 340 calipers and upgrade to rear 345mm calipers. F340/R330 tend to nose dive under heavy braking. But F340/R345 will squat very controllably under heavy braking. Rear 345mm calipers in excellent condition cost about $450-$500.

With all of these options, I recommend StopTech Crossdrilled rotors and Hawk 5.0 pads. And I'd upgrade to Stainless steel brake lines for more solid pedal feel.

G2USA Caliper Paint is the best way to change the color of your brakes. It's a two part epoxy like paint that brushes on right on the car and levels out as it dries to a sprayed on finish. Photo shows my buddy's calipers. He bought them used in blue but water red so he painted them with G2.

Hope this helps!

Hey Johnung - After much review and consideration, I am focused on getting the MPBBK in red color. However, I am discouraged by all of the reports about noise with the dimpled & slotted rotors. I could sell the MPBBK fronts and incorporate StopTech rotors all the way around. You recommended cross drilled. I see that StopTech also has slotted only and cross drilled and slotted. IYO would a combination of slotted and cross drilled be better than just cross drilled? Any advantage with the StopTech cryo sport-stop drilled rotor?

[Milkman670]

well worth the $$, love these on the track and daily driving

[Logicoeur]

You can buy the red calipers separately from ECS. Or buy a used blue set from an F30 or stock on the M2/3/4 and powder coat them red.

[JNMNL52]

Originally Posted by Milkman670

well worth the $$, love these on the track and daily driving

Good to hear. When did you install your MPBBK? Are you experiencing any noise with these rotors as others have mentioned in various threads on this site?

[johnung]

Originally Posted by JNMNL52

Hey Johnung - After much review and consideration, I am focused on getting the MPBBK in red color. However, I am discouraged by all of the reports about noise with the dimpled & slotted rotors. I could sell the MPBBK fronts and incorporate StopTech rotors all the way around. You recommended cross drilled. I see that StopTech also has slotted only and cross drilled and slotted. IYO would a combination of slotted and cross drilled be better than just cross drilled? Any advantage with the StopTech cryo sport-stop drilled rotor?

That's cool! Usually GetBMWParts website has best price on MP Brake Kit at like $1,800-$1,900 but maybe you can find an even lower Black Friday price.

I'd sell the pads that come with it too. They are only average. Hawk 5.0 are superior street performance pads in every category.

StopTech does sell crossdrilled only. I have them on two cars. Part numbers below.

Front 370mm x 30mm
128.34144L
128.34144R

Rear 345mm x 24mm (185mm handbrake)
128.34147L &R

Hawk 5.0 Front 340 or 370 pads
HB765B.664

Hawk 5.0 Rear 345 pads
HB766B.624

No, don't get combo rotors. Adding slots to crossdrilled rotors won't improve bite. It will only create noise and tear up pads quicker.

IMO don't waste money on the cryo treatment. The metallurgy on these is already excellent.

Definitely upgrade your rubber brake hoses to stainless steel brake lines. It makes brake pedal more solid and responsive. I've used StopTech SS lines for about $108 total. Check Turner for them. The Turner SS lines also look nice although I've never used them. They have been putting them on sale.

StopTech SS Lines
Front: 950.34032
Rear: 950.34531

Check around for Black Friday pricing. I'd suggest sending Mike at X-PH an email with your part number list. I'm sure that you'll get a great price.

Hope this helps!

[JNMNL52]

Originally Posted by johnung

That's cool! Usually GetBMWParts website has best price on MP Brake Kit at like $1,800-$1,900 but maybe you can find an even lower Black Friday price.

I'd sell the pads that come with it too. They are only average. Hawk 5.0 are superior street performance pads in every category.

StopTech does sell crossdrilled only. I have them on two cars. Part numbers below.

Front 370mm x 30mm
128.34144L
128.34144R

Rear 345mm x 24mm (185mm handbrake)
128.34147L &R

Hawk 5.0 Front 340 or 370 pads
HB765B.664

Hawk 5.0 Rear 345 pads
HB766B.624

No, don't get combo rotors. Adding slots to crossdrilled rotors won't improve bite. It will only create noise and tear up pads quicker.

IMO don't waste money on the cryo treatment. The metallurgy on these is already excellent.

Definitely upgrade your rubber brake hoses to stainless steel brake lines. It makes brake pedal more solid and responsive. I've used StopTech SS lines for about $108 total. Check Turner for them. The Turner SS lines also look nice although I've never used them. They have been putting them on sale.

StopTech SS Lines
Front: 950.34032
Rear: 950.34531

Check around for Black Friday pricing. I'd suggest sending Mike at X-PH an email with your part number list. I'm sure that you'll get a great price.

Hope this helps!

Great info; thanks. I do intend the retrofit with SS lines and Hawk pads. You previously mentioned getting stainless steel mount bolts. Are you refering to the single bolt attaching each rotor to the hub or caliper bolts? Also, I noticed that the front rotors that are included in the MPBBK are not marked Left and Right, unlike StopTech rotors. I believe this makes the slots face in different directions on either side of the car. Same for the rears. Seems strange. Am I missing something? Lastly, what do you believe the fair market value to be on the new unused MPBBK front rotors that I will sell to offset the added cost of my retrofit?

[BWbimmer]

Originally Posted by BMWF30GuyUK

Evening/Afternoon/Morning All,

I'm sure that this has popped up a 1000+ times by now but I am looking to upgrade the brakes on my vehicle and looking to do a BBK without paying stupid costs.

Now I've seen various older generations of BMW using calipers from other Manufacturers that are using Brembo Calipers (Not cheap, any day of the week!)

My question is, I have seen a rather nice set of Range Rover Sport SVR 6 Pot Front Calipers for sale on eBay (Yes, ebay!) and was considering to pair that with the 4 Pot M Perf Calipers and a set of F80 M3 Discs to retain the PCD and the Centre bore.

And, what did you decide on?

My question is, would this set up work? (I know that with enough money, anything will work!) I'm just concerned about the bias of it all and the fact that I would be potentially using calipers meant for the front of the vehicle on the rear and have seen on other forums that this could cause severe lock up if not done right. Am I ambitious, stupid or a bit of both? (I haven't bought anything yet so just looking to get all my research in before making a potentially very stupid decision!)

Thanks all for the help and here are a couple of links to what I am looking at.

SVR Calipers: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ranger-Ro...7726%7Ciid%3A1

M Perf Calipers: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BMW-M-Per...7726%7Ciid%3A1

And, what did you decide to get?

[johnung]

Originally Posted by JNMNL52

Great info; thanks. I do intend the retrofit with SS lines and Hawk pads. You previously mentioned getting stainless steel mount bolts. Are you refering to the single bolt attaching each rotor to the hub or caliper bolts? Also, I noticed that the front rotors that are included in the MPBBK are not marked Left and Right, unlike StopTech rotors. I believe this makes the slots face in different directions on either side of the car. Same for the rears. Seems strange. Am I missing something? Lastly, what do you believe the fair market value to be on the new unused MPBBK front rotors that I will sell to offset the added cost of my retrofit?

Those were stainless steel rotor screws. One holds/aligns each rotor onto the hub so you'll need four. ECS and Turner both sell them, about $4 each.

The internal vanes on the StopTech's are directional to provide optimal cooling. They are a higher tech design than the rotors in the MP brake kit. The BMW rotors have excellent metallurgy like the StopTech, but the dimpled/slotted kit rotors are all for show, not actual brake performance. StopTech crossdrilled with Hawk 5.0 pads will easily out perform dimpled/slotted rotors with the kit pads in both dry and in rain.

It should be fairly easy to sell the rotors and pads since they are brand new and considered an upgrade to anyone that has the blue M Sport Front 370/Rear 345 brakes. Advertise on local BMW forums within driving distance to meet, since the heavy weight makes them expensive to ship. BMW list pricing can get found on GetBMWParts website. Comparative pricing can be found on ECS. Your parts are brand new and you aren't charging local sales tax so anything at or below ECS prices would be a deal for someone.

Link to ECS
Note that description incorrectly says that they are crossdrilled/slotted when the are dimpled/slotted

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...34106797603kt/

Front BMW M Performance Pads

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...a/34116878882/

Rear BMW M Sport Brake Pads
I didn't spot the exact MP pads but this will give you an idea of price. For exact MP pads part number try emailing GetBMWParts

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...a/34216887576/

Note: the reason that the MP kit doesn't include rear rotors is because F3x's came with two different sizes of handbrakes that are built into the rear rotor hats like drum brakes. Earlier cars had 160mm "drums" machined inside smaller rotor hats. Later cars had 185mm handbrakes inside larger rotor hats. So if someone is retrofitting the MP kit onto a car with a 160mm handbrake then rear rotors in 345x24 need to be purchased with the 160mm handbrake. BMW makes both sizes of rear 345mm rotors.

Hope this helps!

[JNMNL52]

Originally Posted by johnung

Those were stainless steel rotor screws. One holds/aligns each rotor onto the hub so you'll need four. ECS and Turner both sell them, about $4 each.

The internal vanes on the StopTech's are directional to provide optimal cooling. They are a higher tech design than the rotors in the MP brake kit. The BMW rotors have excellent metallurgy like the StopTech, but the dimpled/slotted kit rotors are all for show, not actual brake performance. StopTech crossdrilled with Hawk 5.0 pads will easily out perform dimpled/slotted rotors with the kit pads in both dry and in rain.

It should be fairly easy to sell the rotors and pads since they are brand new and considered an upgrade to anyone that has the blue M Sport Front 370/Rear 345 brakes. Advertise on local BMW forums within driving distance to meet, since the heavy weight makes them expensive to ship. BMW list pricing can get found on GetBMWParts website. Comparative pricing can be found on ECS. Your parts are brand new and you aren't charging local sales tax so anything at or below ECS prices would be a deal for someone.

Link to ECS
Note that description incorrectly says that they are crossdrilled/slotted when the are dimpled/slotted

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...34106797603kt/

Front BMW M Performance Pads

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...a/34116878882/

Rear BMW M Sport Brake Pads
I didn't spot the exact MP pads but this will give you an idea of price. For exact MP pads part number try emailing GetBMWParts

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...a/34216887576/

Note: the reason that the MP kit doesn't include rear rotors is because F3x's came with two different sizes of handbrakes that are built into the rear rotor hats like drum brakes. Earlier cars had 160mm "drums" machined inside smaller rotor hats. Later cars had 185mm handbrakes inside larger rotor hats. So if someone is retrofitting the MP kit onto a car with a 160mm handbrake then rear rotors in 345x24 need to be purchased with the 160mm handbrake. BMW makes both sizes of rear 345mm rotors.

Hope this helps!

Thanks again. Very helpful! I found the ss rotor screws on ECS Tuning. Good idea. How about the value of my existing 340/330 base (P337A) brake set? Is there a used parts market for them?

[Sigge]

Originally Posted by JNMNL52

Thanks again. Very helpful! I found the ss rotor screws on ECS Tuning. Good idea. How about the value of my existing 340/330 base (P337A) brake set? Is there a used parts market for them?

^ This

Also recently bought a set of M-Sport front and rear calipers along with discs and pads.

Was hoping to get a few bucks back and sell the original setup

[johnung]

Originally Posted by JNMNL52

Thanks again. Very helpful! I found the ss rotor screws on ECS Tuning. Good idea. How about the value of my existing 340/330 base (P337A) brake set? Is there a used parts market for them?

340/330 brakes are an incredible upgrade for anyone who has a 4-cylinder with standard 312/300 brakes. Someone could also buy the front 340 calipers and pair them with rear 345mm calipers.

The most valuable piece that is coming off your car is the pair of front Brembo 340mm calipers. Used in grey they are typically $400-$450. If they were blue in perfect condition, probably $450-$500. I really don't know about 330mm rear Bosch calipers. Guessing someone who wants them for an upgrade maybe 100-$200

It's really difficult to price used rotors and pads depending on condition. Front 340 rotors probably $100-$150/pair. Rear 330 rotors maybe $50-$100/pair. Pads maybe $50 or often used as a toss in if someone buys the rotors.

Note: Remember that the 330mm rear rotors are made for the newer larger 185mm handbrake. Someone who has older small hat rear 160mm handbrake is going to need a 330x20 rear rotor with 160mm handbrake machined into it. I don't think that I've ever seen one. Could probably mount larger 185mm handbrake rotor. But the car's handbrake wouldn't work.

[JNMNL52]

Originally Posted by johnung

340/330 brakes are an incredible upgrade for anyone who has a 4-cylinder with standard 312/300 brakes. Someone could also buy the front 340 calipers and pair them with rear 345mm calipers.

The most valuable piece that is coming off your car is the pair of front Brembo 340mm calipers. Used in grey they are typically $400-$450. If they were blue in perfect condition, probably $450-$500. I really don't know about 330mm rear Bosch calipers. Guessing someone who wants them for an upgrade maybe 100-$200

It's really difficult to price used rotors and pads depending on condition. Front 340 rotors probably $100-$150/pair. Rear 330 rotors maybe $50-$100/pair. Pads maybe $50 or often used as a toss in if someone buys the rotors.

Note: Remember that the 330mm rear rotors are made for the newer larger 185mm handbrake. Someone who has older small hat rear 160mm handbrake is going to need a 330x20 rear rotor with 160mm handbrake machined into it. I don't think that I've ever seen one. Could probably mount larger 185mm handbrake rotor. But the car's handbrake wouldn't work.

Thanks. I did not realize the value of the original base set being replaced. This is that much more revenue to offset the added cost of the StopTech rotors, Hawks, and SS lines.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by JNMNL52

Thanks. I did not realize the value of the original base set being replaced. This is that much more revenue to offset the added cost of the StopTech rotors, Hawks, and SS lines.

Yes. I've learned a bit from selling used parts along the way as I've removed them from my car. I can never predict how fast things might sell. Parts that I thought would sell quickly sat around for 6-12 months. Others that I couldn't imagine selling, actually sold quickly.

You need to have patience. Different guys will try to lowball you. Just like when you buy a used part, you need to know how high you are willing to pay. When selling you always need to know how low you are willing to go on price.

If you think that you have set a fair price you have no reason to drop it much for the first guy who contacts you. Unless you really need cash right away. If you are not cash strapped, then it's better to be patient and wait for the right buyer.

You only need one buyer who wants what you are selling. Clean the parts well and take quality photos to assure potential buyers.

I try to look up part numbers or take clear photos of the part number on the part itself. Remember that you can't guarantee fitment on their car. So be careful what you say, but absolutely give them the data that they need to look up compatibility issues themselves.

If it's a local sale pick a convenient public place to meet like a McDonald's or 7/11 parking lot. Park where you are clearly visible and probably on video cameras. My local police department makes a section of their parking lot available to people making online sales. It has signs making it clear that videotaping is happening. I have always had great experiences selling to other BMW guys. But I've read nightmares about Craig's list sales, so it pays to always put yourself in a safe situation.

Make clear that you expect cash. If someone turns up pleading poverty and asking if you'll take $150 when you had agreed on $200, say "No, I'd like the amount that we agreed on." If the full amount doesn't immediately appear then just say thanks anyway and immediately get in your car and drive away. Don't listen to any talk, any stories, any con jobs. And whatever you do, do not go with them or follow them to get the money from a friend or a bank machine. The transaction happens at the designated location or not at all.

Not trying to scare anyone reading this. Just be smart and put yourself in only positive situations. Do that, and things will go right 99% of the time!

Hope this helps!

[JNMNL52]

Originally Posted by johnung

Yes. I've learned a bit from selling used parts along the way as I've removed them from my car. I can never predict how fast things might sell. Parts that I thought would sell quickly sat around for 6-12 months. Others that I couldn't imagine selling, actually sold quickly.

You need to have patience. Different guys will try to lowball you. Just like when you buy a used part, you need to know how high you are willing to pay. When selling you always need to know how low you are willing to go on price.

If you think that you have set a fair price you have no reason to drop it much for the first guy who contacts you. Unless you really need cash right away. If you are not cash strapped, then it's better to be patient and wait for the right buyer.

You only need one buyer who wants what you are selling. Clean the parts well and take quality photos to assure potential buyers.

I try to look up part numbers or take clear photos of the part number on the part itself. Remember that you can't guarantee fitment on their car. So be careful what you say, but absolutely give them the data that they need to look up compatibility issues themselves.

If it's a local sale pick a convenient public place to meet like a McDonald's or 7/11 parking lot. Park where you are clearly visible and probably on video cameras. My local police department makes a section of their parking lot available to people making online sales. It has signs making it clear that videotaping is happening. I have always had great experiences selling to other BMW guys. But I've read nightmares about Craig's list sales, so it pays to always put yourself in a safe situation.

Make clear that you expect cash. If someone turns up pleading poverty and asking if you'll take $150 when you had agreed on $200, say "No, I'd like the amount that we agreed on." If the full amount doesn't immediately appear then just say thanks anyway and immediately get in your car and drive away. Don't listen to any talk, any stories, any con jobs. And whatever you do, do not go with them or follow them to get the money from a friend or a bank machine. The transaction happens at the designated location or not at all.

Not trying to scare anyone reading this. Just be smart and put yourself in only positive situations. Do that, and things will go right 99% of the time!

Hope this helps!

Good advice. Thanks.

[BMWF30GuyUK]

Originally Posted by BWbimmer

And, what did you decide to get?

Sorry for the long delay in getting back.

I'm still waiting for the right set of M Performance brakes to come up on the market at a fair price. most lenders are coming up with ridiculous prices in the UK right now.