[SimonBMW1]

Originally Posted by HighlandPete

I'm also not really following what might be wrong here.

Looking at your last picture, it does look like pad material transfer to me. Note the part I've circled, shows a 'miss', if it is pad material. If it is simply heat, it should be more consistent.

Just a thought, I wonder if the pads are genuine, is there the possibility they could be fake?

Pads are genuine, Brought from a reputable parts shop. Also had all the markings on and the box was sealed with the correct brembo hologram on it,

You say pad material transfer, how do i sort that. this is the first time this has happened to me on any car.

[Ennoch]

Originally Posted by SimonBMW1

You say pad material transfer, how do i sort that. this is the first time this has happened to me on any car.

I explained earlier in the thread; a light abrasive by hand across the rotor. However, if Autodoc are saying they'd entertain a refund then that might be the easiest route, and I don't think they'd be willing to do that after you've scuffed them.

I can't say what's causing the issue. If the car rolls freely then it would suggest that the calipers aren't sticking, or the pads aren't sticking in the caliper. Only you know how hard you've been using them, but purple and blue colouration on the discs is a sign of heat. 370mm rotors take some effort to get those colours showing on the public road. The problem with road pads is if they're being abused they essentially get too hot, melt, and start leaving streaking deposits across the surface of the disc. This can cause juddering if it's uneven. Performance pads are harder and cope with higher temps before this happens but even so I've still melted some performance pads in the past in a similar manner.

[bishbosh]

Touching on the subject of the car rolling freely. You'd need a lot of pressure on the disc to notice the car not rolling freely. A binding brake pad might not be obvious.

Better way would be to jack up the car and try to turn the wheels by hand.

Alternately go for a drive and feel which wheel burns your finger tips off.

I had a sticking caliper on my last car and the heat was so bad you could feel it emanating from the wheel, it destroyed a 2 month old set of brake pads, but I didn't notice any difference in how the car drove and it rolled freely.

[HighlandPete]

Checking for heat with light use would be a good idea, see whether there is additional heat at one or more wheels.

Like Ennoch, I'd be running an abrasive pad over the friction face. Remember you may have pad transfer on the inside face as well.

BTW, I use an abrasive pad on my Bosch oscillating multitool to clean disc faces.

[Simon89]

I wonder if there is an issue with the discs from Autodoc? I purchased mine from there and just seems to be more than a coincidence that there is more than 1 person suffering from the same issue?

[SimonBMW1]

So autodoc have said this.

As a gesture of goodwill we can offer 10 % additional discount for replacment part before the settlement of warranty department but we ask for a handwritten confirmation (or you can send it by email) that you undertake to stop using the defective spare part and immediately dismantle it after receiving a new spare part.

[SimonBMW1]

i have taken one side apart today and cleaned the hub up using a drill and sanding bit. Last time just used a wire brush.
I think a bit of improvement is there.

Was going to do the drivers side and hit a snag. One wheel bolt look rounded. So left it.
Now need to order a wheel bolt, get a tyre place to remove and fit new one. (Part Numbers anyone)

[Pond]

Originally Posted by SimonBMW1

i have taken one side apart today and cleaned the hub up using a drill and sanding bit. Last time just used a wire brush.
I think a bit of improvement is there.

Was going to do the drivers side and hit a snag. One wheel bolt look rounded. So left it.
Now need to order a wheel bolt, get a tyre place to remove and fit new one. (Part Numbers anyone)

eBay.
BMW are approx £5 each and others are about 75p each. A bolt is a bolt.

As long as it's the same length and same shoulder angle (60 degrees?) and of course same diameter thread (M10 IIRC).

[Allworth]

When buying cheap bolts make sure it is ATLEAST grade 8.8
I would use my VIN to check for P/N on realoem.com selecting disc R size and type

[Kendo67]

I think the wheel bolts are M14 x 1.25mm pitch , if you need confirmation then check out an eBay listing for bolt + spacer kits for the F series.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334470283...YAAOSw0MRgJAmn

K

[Ennoch]

Originally Posted by Pond

eBay.
BMW are approx £5 each and others are about 75p each. A bolt is a bolt.

As long as it's the same length and same shoulder angle (60 degrees?) and of course same diameter thread (M10 IIRC).

The only issues I've ever had with wheel nuts and bolts are mcguard locking ones, and cheap crap people have fitted from eBay. Some stuff's good, some's bad, but IMO for decent quality bolts the BMW price is reasonable.

[SimonBMW1]

Originally Posted by Kendo67

I think the wheel bolts are M14 x 1.25mm pitch , if you need confirmation then check out an eBay listing for bolt + spacer kits for the F series.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334470283...YAAOSw0MRgJAmn

K

Yes the nuts are that. Ordered of ebay from bmwdirect shop.
I would never buy cheap wheel nuts, as they are essential to stop u cradhing etc.

Thanks for all the help on this topic. I know its not sticky calipers. If its still an issue. I will replace disc and pads.
Will go for another brand, a few places have told me that brembos are actually bad quality and not all that.

[Pond]

Originally Posted by Kendo67

I think the wheel bolts are M14 x 1.25mm pitch

Yes they are. Sorry I was way off.

I have had cars (recently too) where some bolts have had to come off with a 6ft socket extension as they were so tight, and others almost hand-tight, on the same wheel.

Over torqueing can over stretch threads and deform them. Tightening with an impact air gun is also a very bad idea, as the percussion action can crack the threads.

Wheel bolts should also never be greased, either internally or on the shoulder.

I am happy to use 'cheap' bolts which are torqued correctly, generally 10 times the diameter in Nm. 140Nm for an M14 bolt.

[Martyn86]

Originally Posted by SimonBMW1

i have taken one side apart today and cleaned the hub up using a drill and sanding bit. Last time just used a wire brush.
I think a bit of improvement is there.

Was going to do the drivers side and hit a snag. One wheel bolt look rounded. So left it.
Now need to order a wheel bolt, get a tyre place to remove and fit new one. (Part Numbers anyone)

Where are you based?

The reason I ask is some garages can’t or won’t take off rounded nuts. I came across this issue when i had the same problem only the wheel nuts were also seized solid. After trying a few highly recommended garages with no luck I took it to an independent guy that specialises in removing round nuts and locking nuts where the key is missing / broken.

[SimonBMW1]

Looks like i fixed the issue,
Just a clean-up of the hubs and a install again looks to fix it. Also drove it like i stole it and looks ok.

No heavy vibrations above 60mph. Do get noise but i think that's the slotted disc. Brakes are actually very sharp lol.
No Fade anymore.

Thanks for the help all.
Also now feel more confident changing my pads/disc myself now.

[Ennoch]

Originally Posted by SimonBMW1

Looks like i fixed the issue

Nice one! I'm glad you sorted it out, nothing more frustrating than new parts not working properly, either because they're boned out the boxor you've been a bonehead (been in both situations) or as it seems in your case, it just didn't like it the first time round. Sometimes cars can just be an absolute bugger, and currently I'm chasing a scraping/binding on the rear of the Impreza which seems to have arisen from nowhere, and it's not exactly a car I'm not familiar with!

[jcdub]

Originally Posted by Chappers 71

I changed from Red Stuff ceramic to standard Brembo pads & they weren't that good when braking heavily from high speed. Have since changed them to Brembo Sport HP2000, difference is night & day & It now 'stops on a sixpence'
As for the vibration have had this a few times, causes have been pad deposits on discs due to holding it on the brakes after coming to high speed stops, I now take it out of gear & use handbrake & the last time it occurred it was worn lower suspension arms. 'Warped' discs is very unlikely.

I've ordered these pads. Hope to have them Wednesday. I recently fitted dimpled and grooved discs. And I had Textar pads installed. But they seem to be a soft pad and the amount of dust from them is unreal. Pedal feel is soft too. Looking forward to getting these pads on after your feedback!