[Brady154]

Originally Posted by DVC

The F30 can certainly be a hell of a lot of fun on track. I've been pondering your question for a few minutes, and I think the answer depends on your goals.

If you want a fast car for the street that's well-sorted for casual track use without any mods, then obviously the F80 is a better choice in terms of both power and handling. But if your goals involve getting a bit more serious on track, then you'd still likely be modding an F80 as well... in which case it may make more sense to just stick with your current F30. Other than the diff, most of what I've modded on my F30 is more performance-optimized than the corresponding part that comes on an F80 stock... and I've modded a lot. Maybe I've just come to the point where I'm not happy with a car until I've modded it a bunch anyway.

Personally, I like having a track-focused F30 that can run with the F8Xs... and it would be good to see more out there!

Great thread! I am new to the car scene, as I've been road racing motorcycles for almost 15 years. We happened to buy a 2014 335i as a daily, and I've been super impressed. My son races autocross and time attack, so I figured I'd join him. I considered a used M3, but I was thinking like DVC.

So far I've added a JB4, hard charge pipe (mine blew up), Megan racing front sway bar (still need to install the rear), high flow down pipe (still need to install), Winmax W3 brake pads (ordered), and OZ wheels with 245 Re71R tires.

I'm racing some autocross now, and I plan to start doing time attack. We will eventually make it a track only car--I think.

My plans are to get an LSD (I'm thinking Wavetrac), delrin bushings on the rear subframe, and Ohlins street and track shocks. I'll get race seats, roll bar, and aero later.

What do ya'll think? What should be my priority? What am I missing? I have a LOT to learn about the other suspension components, since my bikes didn't have them.

[52172]

Ohlins coils first

[cjlane]

Originally Posted by DVC

Here's the thread on coding for the F chassis: <link>

I agree on the F80 control arms in addition to the sway bars.... The F80 front LCAs have a nice spherical bearing that is an improvement over the F30 bushing; the F80 tension struts are a must to maintain proper front wheel geometry when the F80 LCAs are installed, but the F80 TSs have the same mushy bushing as the F30 version, so I went with Dinan mono balls in mine. Also, I swapped 4 of the 5 rear control arms (no after market option for the roll over strut) with Megan Racing arms with heim joints, and then put delrin bushings and spherical bearings in the OE roll over strut. Not to mention solid rear subframe bushings. No rubber anywhere in my suspension at this point, so the car feels pretty dialed. And yet it's still more comfortable on the street than my friend's stock BRZ.

What rear subframe bushings did you go with? I am worried about the possibility of damaging the rear subframe if I went with a solid aluminum type mount.

People seem to like to reference the M3 having solid mounts, but the F80 subframe is better reinforced than the F30.

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Logicoeur

How does -2 degrees camber front and rear look? I really like the meaty square look and the ARC8s will be the wheels I choose.

2 deg rear camber is perfect; I like a bit more in front on these cars... 2.7 - 3.2 is a good range (roughly 1 deg more than rear)

[DVC]

Originally Posted by brigade24

...some are saying that 10" is too wide for preservation of grip and at optimal temperature...

Curious where that feedback is coming from... lots of e46/e9x/f8x M cars flying around track on 18x10 wheels and 275 tires up front. A square set of 275s is sort of the standard track setup for the M guys.

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Brady154

Great thread! I am new to the car scene, as I've been road racing motorcycles for almost 15 years. We happened to buy a 2014 335i as a daily, and I've been super impressed. My son races autocross and time attack, so I figured I'd join him. I considered a used M3, but I was thinking like DVC.

So far I've added a JB4, hard charge pipe (mine blew up), Megan racing front sway bar (still need to install the rear), high flow down pipe (still need to install), Winmax W3 brake pads (ordered), and OZ wheels with 245 Re71R tires.

I'm racing some autocross now, and I plan to start doing time attack. We will eventually make it a track only car--I think.

My plans are to get an LSD (I'm thinking Wavetrac), delrin bushings on the rear subframe, and Ohlins street and track shocks. I'll get race seats, roll bar, and aero later.

What do ya'll think? What should be my priority? What am I missing? I have a LOT to learn about the other suspension components, since my bikes didn't have them.

Welcome to the party! Great to see yet another f30 owner realizing the car's potential....

Sounds like you're on the right track, and your mod list sounds great. Being that you've already increased power, I'd say that puts the priority squarely on grip, traction, and car control.... so an LSD, Ohlins and rear subframe bushings are all top priority. One thing I didn't see you mention is camber plates... are those on the list too?

[DVC]

Originally Posted by cjlane

What rear subframe bushings did you go with? I am worried about the possibility of damaging the rear subframe if I went with a solid aluminum type mount.

People seem to like to reference the M3 having solid mounts, but the F80 subframe is better reinforced than the F30.

I went with Bimmerworld delrin bushings. I've never heard of any rear subframe issues on the f chassis cars... last I've heard of that was on e46 cars - including (especially) the M3.

[cjlane]

Originally Posted by DVC

I went with Bimmerworld delrin bushings. I've never heard of any rear subframe issues on the f chassis cars... last I've heard of that was on e46 cars - including (especially) the M3.

Those are the ones I am looking at now. Any regrets? Do they make any squeaking noise like ive heard PU bushings do?

Thanks for your help.

[Brady154]

Originally Posted by DVC

Welcome to the party! Great to see yet another f30 owner realizing the car's potential....

Sounds like you're on the right track, and your mod list sounds great. Being that you've already increased power, I'd say that puts the priority squarely on grip, traction, and car control.... so an LSD, Ohlins and rear subframe bushings are all top priority. One thing I didn't see you mention is camber plates... are those on the list too?

Yes, camber plates will be bought when I get the shocks. Thanks for the input. Should I be looking at different control arms and what not as well?

[52172]

I’m going in for alignment next week with adjustable superflex bushings next week along with new tension struts and a new 4 wheel alignment 😎

[Brady154]

So, we got the front sway bar installed and then raced autocross this weekend. The car handled a lot worse than when it was just stock, but I'm not totally surprised since I didn't get the rear sway bar in yet or upgrade the suspension yet. I want to install the Delrin rear subframe bushing when I do the rear sway bar, but I'm not having any luck finding the special tool I need to R&I the bushings. Do y'all have any suggestions?

[DVC]

Originally Posted by cjlane

Those are the ones I am looking at now. Any regrets? Do they make any squeaking noise like ive heard PU bushings do?

Thanks for your help.

No noise/regrets on the RSBs... still one my top upgrades.

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Brady154

Yes, camber plates will be bought when I get the shocks. Thanks for the input. Should I be looking at different control arms and what not as well?

If you're going camber plates anyway, the biggest benefit of the F8x control arms is the spherical bearing in the LCA that replaces the mushy bushing in the F30 LCA. I think it's worth it, but it's certainly not a dramatic difference. More like a first step down the longer road of dialing out all the suspension comlpliance (tension strut bushings, and the rear multilink arms would be the next step).

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by Brady154

So, we got the front sway bar installed and then raced autocross this weekend. The car handled a lot worse than when it was just stock, but I'm not totally surprised since I didn't get the rear sway bar in yet or upgrade the suspension yet. I want to install the Delrin rear subframe bushing when I do the rear sway bar, but I'm not having any luck finding the special tool I need to R&I the bushings. Do y'all have any suggestions?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/K9ruSZiuUL4uJCcY9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pyyMZVtqTu8voQTo9

You will need a 3" threaded pipe and a cap (receiver). 4" inches in length if possible, but 5" or 6" will also work but you will just need more space. 1/2 inch threaded rod cut to about 16" or so (depends on the length of your receiver) I used a 6" threaded pipe and needed about 16"-17" of 1/2 threaded rod to do the removal and install. Note the extra length is for the install. You will need a way to "lock" the rod in place while driving out/in the bushings so I recommend using a double nut on either end (I put double nuts on both ends for flexibility in case I ran out of *******. you will notice in the pic I use a long threaded collar to apply pressure at the base of the cap. this is so you use the maximum amount of threading to prevent stripping of the 1/2" rod. It is in your best interest to lubricate the threaded rod with wd40, pb blast or whatever derivative you have access to.

After the third bushing, the rod snap...

A word of caution. should you choose to perform the installation yourself, you will discover that male pattern baldness is NOT hereditary!! You have been warned!

I found that the simplest way to remove the old bushings is to burn them out. the exterior of the bushing is lined with plastic so you just need to melt off one section to release the pressure and then hammer it out.

God help us all.

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by brigade24

https://photos.app.goo.gl/K9ruSZiuUL4uJCcY9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pyyMZVtqTu8voQTo9

You will need a 3" threaded pipe and a cap (receiver). 4" inches in length if possible, but 5" or 6" will also work but you will just need more space. 1/2 inch threaded rod cut to about 16" or so (depends on the length of your receiver) I used a 6" threaded pipe and needed about 16"-17" of 1/2 threaded rod to do the removal and install. Note the extra length is for the install. You will need a way to "lock" the rod in place while driving out/in the bushings so I recommend using a double nut on either end (I put double nuts on both ends for flexibility in case I ran out of *******. you will notice in the pic I use a long threaded collar to apply pressure at the base of the cap. this is so you use the maximum amount of threading to prevent stripping of the 1/2" rod. It is in your best interest to lubricate the threaded rod with wd40, pb blast or whatever derivative you have access to.

After the third bushing, the rod snap...

A word of caution. should you choose to perform the installation yourself, you will discover that male pattern baldness is NOT hereditary!! You have been warned!

I found that the simplest way to remove the old bushings is to burn them out. the exterior of the bushing is lined with plastic so you just need to melt off one section to release the pressure and then hammer it out.

God help us all.

This is impressive. I did see some Youtube videos of people burning them out.

How easy is it to get the Delrin bushings back into the subframe?

[Brady154]

Originally Posted by brigade24

https://photos.app.goo.gl/K9ruSZiuUL4uJCcY9

https://photos.app.goo.gl/pyyMZVtqTu8voQTo9

You will need a 3" threaded pipe and a cap (receiver). 4" inches in length if possible, but 5" or 6" will also work but you will just need more space. 1/2 inch threaded rod cut to about 16" or so (depends on the length of your receiver) I used a 6" threaded pipe and needed about 16"-17" of 1/2 threaded rod to do the removal and install. Note the extra length is for the install. You will need a way to "lock" the rod in place while driving out/in the bushings so I recommend using a double nut on either end (I put double nuts on both ends for flexibility in case I ran out of *******. you will notice in the pic I use a long threaded collar to apply pressure at the base of the cap. this is so you use the maximum amount of threading to prevent stripping of the 1/2" rod. It is in your best interest to lubricate the threaded rod with wd40, pb blast or whatever derivative you have access to.

After the third bushing, the rod snap...

A word of caution. should you choose to perform the installation yourself, you will discover that male pattern baldness is NOT hereditary!! You have been warned!

I found that the simplest way to remove the old bushings is to burn them out. the exterior of the bushing is lined with plastic so you just need to melt off one section to release the pressure and then hammer it out.

God help us all.

Thank you very much. I'm about to tackle this job soon. Hopefully I have some hair left when I'm done. lol

[DVC]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

This is impressive. I did see some Youtube videos of people burning them out.

How easy is it to get the Delrin bushings back into the subframe?

It's VERY difficult without a hydraulic press.

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by Polo08816

This is impressive. I did see some Youtube videos of people burning them out.

How easy is it to get the Delrin bushings back into the subframe?

thank you.

I just lowered the subframe and left the parking brake cables attached. it was difficult to get them in the way i did it eventhough delrin is relatively compliant for what it is. still doable though. After burning out the bushings, I washed out the subframe bushing "seat" with soap and water and a dollar store brush. WASH IT GOOD! then spray it with kroil, PB blast or whatever. That seemed to make it easier to press the bushings into place.

I've got one more to do. If anyone is interested, I can shoot a short video of what i'm doing. You may need to bare with the fact that I am not a cinematographer and do not care to become one.

There is a bushing tool availble for not too much money that can be used. I was just interested in making my own to test and learn.

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by Brady154

Thank you very much. I'm about to tackle this job soon. Hopefully I have some hair left when I'm done. lol

LOL You're welcome.

[brigade24]

Originally Posted by DVC

Curious where that feedback is coming from... lots of e46/e9x/f8x M cars flying around track on 18x10 wheels and 275 tires up front. A square set of 275s is sort of the standard track setup for the M guys.

Agreed.

Tire temp variances across different wheel widths were not provided so I resigned the information to a lack of testing and hence, knowledge...I believe their (no names...gonna be nice) concern is having to deal with the risk of fitment complaints and wheel returns.

Their reference was never optimal temperatures, it was always about tire/wheel rubbage.

It was a risk-absolving answer...

Even at 9.5" wide, I am facing alot of resistance until i explain my measurements which is usually met with resounding, confused silence...

[Polo08816]

Originally Posted by DVC

It's VERY difficult without a hydraulic press.

Originally Posted by brigade24

thank you.

I just lowered the subframe and left the parking brake cables attached. it was difficult to get them in the way i did it eventhough delrin is relatively compliant for what it is. still doable though. After burning out the bushings, I washed out the subframe bushing "seat" with soap and water and a dollar store brush. WASH IT GOOD! then spray it with kroil, PB blast or whatever. That seemed to make it easier to press the bushings into place.

I've got one more to do. If anyone is interested, I can shoot a short video of what i'm doing. You may need to bare with the fact that I am not a cinematographer and do not care to become one.

There is a bushing tool availble for not too much money that can be used. I was just interested in making my own to test and learn.

Do you have a link for that or are you referencing the tools referenced in ISTA?

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nsion/HKiFvVNT

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...nsion/HKeT7vfk

I believe you can convert the ISTA tool part number by prefixing it with 8330.

For example, if ISTA referenced tool # 0492397.

https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...ension/5OHeawD

You would convert it to a BMW part number by changing it to 83300492397.

https://www.getbmwparts.com/oem-part...10-83300492397

[cjlane]

Originally Posted by brigade24

Agreed.

Tire temp variances across different wheel widths were not provided so I resigned the information to a lack of testing and hence, knowledge...I believe their (no names...gonna be nice) concern is having to deal with the risk of fitment complaints and wheel returns.

Their reference was never optimal temperatures, it was always about tire/wheel rubbage.

It was a risk-absolving answer...

Even at 9.5" wide, I am facing alot of resistance until i explain my measurements which is usually met with resounding, confused silence...

I spent over an hour at my local tire store trying to get them to order 245/35/19 for my 8.5"wide wheel (considered a very conservative fitment by most). They could not grasp I had done a bit of research and knew they would fit fine even if it isnt oem fitment. I only bothered becasue they were going to sell me PS4S for $236/tire installed.