[gameson]

I am going to change the suspension either with koni/eibach combo or kw comfort v2, whichever comes stock first since both koni and kw do not have stocks.

So while i am changing the suspension, to just do it once and done with it, what other parts would you recommend to replace to improve handling and cornering?

Maybe there are some wear and tear items i am not aware of.

Thank you.

[LW335]

Originally Posted by gameson

I am going to change the suspension either with koni/eibach combo or kw comfort v2, whichever comes stock first since both koni and kw do not have stocks.

So while i am changing the suspension, to just do it once and done with it, what other parts would you recommend to replace to improve handling and cornering?

Maybe there are some wear and tear items i am not aware of.

Thank you.

I just got my car lowered with dinan springs and koni yellows. When doing this I also got the bump stops replaced along with the shock mounts for front and rear as my car is over 150k km and was told it is a good time to change it altogether as they tend to wear out around this time.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by gameson

I am going to change the suspension either with koni/eibach combo or kw comfort v2, whichever comes stock first since both koni and kw do not have stocks.

So while i am changing the suspension, to just do it once and done with it, what other parts would you recommend to replace to improve handling and cornering?

Maybe there are some wear and tear items i am not aware of.

Thank you.

Change your springs/shocks first and drive it. Don't change too many variables at once or it gets confusing what caused what. Photo shows front parts to replace to renew ride comfort with new springs and shocks. If coilovers, you have to see which stock parts are to be reused. Put your VIN into realoem website to find parts diagrams and part numbers. GetBMWParts and FCP Euro are good parts sources.

[SoCalCarGuy]

replace your control arm bushings with urethane or monoballs. I went with powerflex urethane.

this mod makes the sloppiness go away from the front end and goes where you aim it.

[Dagstar]

Going off johnung's pic, if you go with kw street comfort coilovers you won't need to purchase numbers 4(bumpstops) or 5(boots) as they come with their own. With the koni/eibach combo you will. FYI the top hats are the by far the most expensive pieces, the rest are pretty trivial in cost.

[gameson]

Originally Posted by johnung

Change your springs/shocks first and drive it. Don't change too many variables at once or it gets confusing what caused what. Photo shows front parts to replace to renew ride comfort with new springs and shocks. If coilovers, you have to see which stock parts are to be reused. Put your VIN into realoem website to find parts diagrams and part numbers. GetBMWParts and FCP Euro are good parts sources.

Hi Johnung

I asked you about the rubber bits on the other thread, but you haven't reply yet, so i guess i can try it here?

Originally Posted by johnung

Put your VIN in realoem website and review suspension diagrams

Is it number 10 and 11 for the rear?

Number 4 and 6 for the front?

Also if buying a coilover, is it still necessary to replace the rubber bits? Or only with koni & eibach combo to replace the rubber bits?

Thanks.

[gameson]

Originally Posted by Dagstar

Going off johnung's pic, if you go with kw street comfort coilovers you won't need to purchase numbers 4(bumpstops) or 5(boots) as they come with their own. With the koni/eibach combo you will. FYI the top hats are the by far the most expensive pieces, the rest are pretty trivial in cost.

What top hats (1,2,3,7) would you recommend? Thanks.

[Dagstar]

Originally Posted by gameson

What top hats (1,2,3,7) would you recommend? Thanks.

The top hat is the upper strut mount (1). I bought Lemforder which is an original parts supplier for BMW. 2 and 3 are just nuts and bolts, and 7 is just a thin gasket. ECS Tuning sells a kit that includes 1, 2, and 7 which was the best option for me at the time. FCP Euro has kits and individual parts as well.
When it comes to front upper strut mounts, you'll need to find out if you have a 3 bolt mount or not. My car does but later cars use mounts with 5 bolts. Realoem will help with that using your VIN or just look under your hood at the strut tower and count. The rear mounts all use a wedge shape with 3 bolts.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by gameson

Hi Johnung

I asked you about the rubber bits on the other thread, but you haven't reply yet, so i guess i can try it here?

Is it number 10 and 11 for the rear?

Number 4 and 6 for the front?

Also if buying a coilover, is it still necessary to replace the rubber bits? Or only with koni & eibach combo to replace the rubber bits?

Thanks.

Sorry. I'm on many forums and lose track of what I responded to. Below is the diagram for the rear bits.

[cfm56d7b]

gameson How many miles does your car have?

[gameson]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

gameson How many miles does your car have?

45k miles, but front left is leaking and both rear dust cover (#4 in johnung diagram) are torn, the reason why i am looking to buy new suspension

[cfm56d7b]

Originally Posted by gameson

45k miles, but front left is leaking and both rear dust cover (#4 in johnung diagram) are torn, the reason why i am looking to buy new suspension

45K miles on California roads or Central / East Coast "moon surface" roads?

If the latter, then control arms and anything with a rubber component should be inspected and replaced at the same time the suspension is refreshed.

Finally, four wheel alignment will complete the process. Your suspension will be ready for many more miles.

Thorough inspection is highly recommended before investing in suspension parts.

[gameson]

Originally Posted by cfm56d7b

45K miles on California roads or Central / East Coast "moon surface" roads?

If the latter, then control arms and anything with a rubber component should be inspected and replaced at the same time the suspension is refreshed.

Finally, four wheel alignment will complete the process. Your suspension will be ready for many more miles.

Thorough inspection is highly recommended before investing in suspension parts.

that's what i am intending to do, to do it all at once and not do it again, hence this thread.

i think the control arm is ok, and steering rack is also okay because the rack has not been replaced throughout the life of the car. i understand steering rack on F30 is prone to failure.

if the rubber is cheap part, i will just buy them all and replace it.

yes, i will do allignment after replacing the suspension

btw, i m running a square setup of 245/40/19

[cfm56d7b]

The steering rack on F30 recorded more complaints on vehicles made in 2012-2013 - the first 2 years of production.

One of the symptoms: a metallic ‘knock’ originating from the right side of the car when going over potholes or uneven road surfaces.

The root cause is an excessive movement between the internal gear components of the steering rack and the electric power steering motor.

BMW replaced the entire steering rack under warranty.

[gameson]

cool, alright, over the weekend, i m going to summarize parts that i need to buy to replace the rubber bits.

If i buy the kw comfort coilover, do i need to buy the same rubber parts? I think bump stop is not required since kw supplies it, but how about other parts?

[johnung]

Originally Posted by gameson

cool, alright, over the weekend, i m going to summarize parts that i need to buy to replace the rubber bits.

If i buy the kw comfort coilover, do i need to buy the same rubber parts? I think bump stop is not required since kw supplies it, but how about other parts?

Just wait until you receive the KWs, or buy everything that you might need and just return any items that you end up not needing.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by gameson

that's what i am intending to do, to do it all at once and not do it again, hence this thread.

i think the control arm is ok, and steering rack is also okay because the rack has not been replaced throughout the life of the car. i understand steering rack on F30 is prone to failure.

if the rubber is cheap part, i will just buy them all and replace it.

yes, i will do allignment after replacing the suspension

btw, i m running a square setup of 245/40/19

The most common control arm issue is leaking from the big front fluid filled upper control arm bushing. If yours isn't leaking fluid then it's fine. See photos.

[gameson]

Originally Posted by johnung

Just wait until you receive the KWs, or buy everything that you might need and just return any items that you end up not needing.

I am going to buy everything that may require replacement now since I don’t want to wait again when i am installing the suspension and find out that some parts require replacement and i have to wait again. I already wait long enough for the suspension, I don’t want to wait again, that’s why i ask this question to prepare on what i may have to replace.

Besides the hats that is expensive, i believe every other bits are trivial (cheap), right?

[johnung]

Originally Posted by gameson

I am going to buy everything that may require replacement now since I don’t want to wait again when i am installing the suspension and find out that some parts require replacement and i have to wait again. I already wait long enough for the suspension, I don’t want to wait again, that’s why i ask this question to prepare on what i may have to replace.

Besides the hats that is expensive, i believe every other bits are trivial (cheap), right?

Look up the part numbers on realoem website. And then prices on GetBMWParts and FCP Euro.

[sygazelle]

Originally Posted by SoCalCarGuy

replace your control arm bushings with urethane or monoballs. I went with powerflex urethane.

this mod makes the sloppiness go away from the front end and goes where you aim it.

^^

I just changed UCA and LCA to VAC Monoballs and it transformed the car. Tight, precise steering that "goes where you aim it".

Monoballs, Dinan Shockware, and getting rid of run flats have made my car pretty much perfect for my needs.

[gameson]

where do you buy yours?

Lower control arm

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...3-F34-F36.html

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...3-F34-F36.html

Should i get adjustable version?


Upper control arm

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...3-F34-F36.html

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...3-F34-F36.html

Originally Posted by SoCalCarGuy

replace your control arm bushings with urethane or monoballs. I went with powerflex urethane.

this mod makes the sloppiness go away from the front end and goes where you aim it.

Originally Posted by sygazelle

^^

I just changed UCA and LCA to VAC Monoballs and it transformed the car. Tight, precise steering that "goes where you aim it".

Monoballs, Dinan Shockware, and getting rid of run flats have made my car pretty much perfect for my needs.

[johnung]

Originally Posted by gameson

where do you buy yours?

Lower control arm

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...3-F34-F36.html

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...3-F34-F36.html

Should i get adjustable version?


Upper control arm

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...3-F34-F36.html

https://www.bimmerworld.com/Suspensi...3-F34-F36.html

NO, those are the wrong bushings that you are looking at in your links!

I have the same monoball bushings that he is talking about. They make a huge difference in steering. The entire control arm is swapped out so you get a new arm and ball joint too. It saves on labor too. Takes about 2-3 hours to swap out a pair of Lower and a pair of upper control arms. Below are the correct links.

Note: if you are short on cash then do the Upper Control Arms first. The stock UCA bushings tend to fail first and you will notice a bigger steering improvement with UCA's than the LCA's. I did my LCA's later. No big deal.

FOR RWD F30's

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22

FOR XDRIVE F30's

https://www.kiesmotorsports.com/prod...8;_ss=r?aff=22