[foveon]

Originally Posted by devil84

Thank you again. That tool area screenshot i took was when i took laptop in the house and loaded my tune files in demo mode. i think thats why its looking strange.

ok understood. i will connect to output H instead using a 1 to 2 rca splitter.

can you clarify what settings i should dial in on the physical mono amp? it only has HP filter and you mentioned LP filter.

what effect would i get when its unmuted. i thought it sounded ok when it was muted. i could still feel my sub when muted. does that mean it will be loads better now lol

Looking at the picture I see Gain, LP Filter, and Bass EQ. I'm not sure what Bass EQ does but I would start back at these settings:

Gain: NOM
LP Filter: 400
Bass EQ: 0db

You had sound from your sub because output G (using the settings from your under-seat subs) was unmuted.

Now it should be connected to output H only, try loading the default subwoofer profile to begin with (which I added to that file I attached) and adjust according to your subwoofer specifications (e.g. crossover at 80hz?) if needed.

[devil84]

okay, i un-muted channel H and change changed the RCA to the pic above and plugged int channel H only. the subwoofer was so much queiter, could not feeling anything even when i put the alpine remote sub controller to max.

when i changed the rca cable back to the 2 (plug both in G and H) i could feel the sub again. i.e noticable increase when i was dialing up and down on remote controller. so somthing not right. what am I doing wrong?

when you say adjust according to sub woofer specifications, do you mean adjust the LP filter on MONO Amp or in the DSP tool software.

my sub is the jl audio cp108lg-w3v3 if that helps?

thanks very much in advance again.

[devil84]

also when i check salonten tune file with external trunk sub - that also has channel H muted. is that a coincidence?

[foveon]

Your routing should look like the attached. Confirm that there's even signal.

You can play around with the gain and cross over frequency settings too.

Typical THX standard is 80hz and I'd start there but if your sub can reach all the way to 250hz, you can also try upping the cross over in the PC TOOL for channel H.

[devil84]

Originally Posted by foveon

Your routing should look like the attached. Confirm that there's even signal.

You can play around with the gain and cross over frequency settings too.

Typical THX standard is 80hz and I'd start there but if your sub can reach all the way to 250hz, you can also try upping the cross over in the PC TOOL for channel H.

thank you , yes mine does look like the pic attached now

just to be clear, on the mono amp itself, shall i just leave the LP filter on max (400) and this remains fixed/unchanged?

everything i adjust will be in dsp tool software? is that right?

if you mean dsp software tool, do i up to 250hz on the LP filter or HP filter (i assume LP?)

[devil84]

i have amended your file for the following:

RHD bias
unmuted channel 8

could you have a quick look?

should this be good using RCA channel H only? i.e. should get better signal than using channel G and H!

[foveon]

Yes you should leave the sub crossover at 400 and adjust from the pc tool. 250 is the upper limit, so no I would try it as is right now and probably play with the gain on the pc tool if it’s too low.

[devil84]

Originally Posted by foveon

Yes you should leave the sub crossover at 400 and adjust from the pc tool. 250 is the upper limit, so no I would try it as is right now and probably play with the gain on the pc tool if it’s too low.

hi buddy . played around with the tune to my taste and sounds all good.

i connected to chanmel H only using a RCA splitter.

https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=rc...Mfk8e1r3rom5M:

all sounds good. assume that's ok. also had to use a right angle adjuster as space is tight she using the rca ports on the bimmertech amp

[devil84]

Originally Posted by foveon

Yes you should leave the sub crossover at 400 and adjust from the pc tool. 250 is the upper limit, so no I would try it as is right now and probably play with the gain on the pc tool if it’s too low.

HI Foevon, thanks for all your help. I have "tweaked" the tune file to suit my tastes in the car. I only changed around with a few settings as it can be overwhelming with all the options that could be changed.

I noticed on the underseat woofers, you have a put a bypass on the high pass filter? any reason for this sorry for this noob question but what does that do?

please see attached my latest tune file based on a f36 with a JL audio cp108 trunk sub - does this look ok to you? tuned it by ear so if someone could look at the file to see if settings look sensible?

I am thinking of upgrading speakers next...

[foveon]

Originally Posted by devil84

HI Foevon, thanks for all your help. I have "tweaked" the tune file to suit my tastes in the car. I only changed around with a few settings as it can be overwhelming with all the options that could be changed.

I noticed on the underseat woofers, you have a put a bypass on the high pass filter? any reason for this sorry for this noob question but what does that do?

please see attached my latest tune file based on a f36 with a JL audio cp108 trunk sub - does this look ok to you? tuned it by ear so if someone could look at the file to see if settings look sensible?

I am thinking of upgrading speakers next...

I actually made a few more changes to the tune, try this one. The bypass doesn't matter on the sub high pass since you're not trying to put a constraint of keeping only high frequencies. If you notice the slopes, it's at 0db anyway so it doesn't do anything.

[foveon]

igorce valley_nomad sorry for all the revisions, I just posted my most likely the final revision of my tune (see page 6)

[igorce]

Originally Posted by foveon

igorce valley_nomad sorry for all the revisions, I just posted my most likely the final revision of my tune (see page 6)

I will try it on friday and thanks for your work!

[devil84]

Originally Posted by foveon

I actually made a few more changes to the tune, try this one. The bypass doesn't matter on the sub high pass since you're not trying to put a constraint of keeping only high frequencies. If you notice the slopes, it's at 0db anyway so it doesn't do anything.

thank you very much mate. i will collate compare it to my custom one.

what does RTA mean? did you tune it with a mic? do you have stock speakers and what sub do you have by the way?

thank you very much.

[foveon]

Originally Posted by devil84

thank you very much mate. i will collate compare it to my custom one.

what does RTA mean? did you tune it with a mic? do you have stock speakers and what sub do you have by the way?

thank you very much.

Real Time Analyzer which means yes, and it was tuned with a calibrated minidsp umik-1 mic. I have stock speakers and no sub, but added that file to make it easy for you to simply load it.

[valley_nomad]

Originally Posted by foveon

Real Time Analyzer which means yes, and it was tuned with a calibrated minidsp umik-1 mic. I have stock speakers and no sub, but added that file to make it easy for you to simply load it.

I did a RTA measurement on your previous driver-center tune with modified time alignment (using true speakers's distances to the driver seat) in my F30 (in just the front of me setting in the seat, the cabin is equipped with moonroof, leatherette upholstery, WeatherTech floor liners). The result has the resemblance to AFT Reference curve. There are several dips which are probably caused by the cancellation resulting from the phase shifting at those frequencies.

Did you use AUTOSET for RTA adjustment? My mic is a Dayton imm-6 which unfortunately is not really supported by AFT PC-Tools. I used AudioTool app with my Oneplus Two smartphone for the measurement. I will try to make manual adjustment to smooth out the curve. It looks like that the adjustment will be a bit tedious as each channel has its own equalizer that maybe interacts with each other during the process.

[foveon]

Nope, auto set was too extreme and I didn’t want to push any frequency above 0db if I could help it. The subs were the only exception. I followed the pc tool guide. Started with driver seat, rear center, then front passenger. Dips are harder to fix and more to do with the cabin. Changing the timing will need eq adjustment again too. Try the latest tune and lmk!

[valley_nomad]

Originally Posted by foveon

Nope, auto set was too extreme and I didn’t want to push any frequency above 0db if I could help it. The subs were the only exception. I followed the pc tool guide. Started with driver seat, rear center, then front passenger. Dips are harder to fix and more to do with the cabin. Changing the timing will need eq adjustment again too. Try the latest tune and lmk!

Thanks.

Which guide did you use? I read only "ATF_Sound_Tuning_Magazine-DSP_Special_Vol_2.pdf"

Did you make RTA adjustment for each channel (or group of channels e.g. front, back, subwoofer) individually?

I noticed that you use LP filters on all mid&high channels with the crossover frequency at 12kHz instead of using equalizers. Why?

[foveon]

Yeah that's the same guide I used. I did make RTA adjustments for each group of channels (front lr, front center, rear lr, 2 subs) then analyzed with different groups turned on to ensure there weren't additional peaks (front lr, then front lr + center, then all fronts/rears and finally all channels).

Also did this exercise from each of the 3 listening positions I stated previously for peaks. All the while I'm also taking a look at the lines to not have too many crisscrossing frequency cuts that work against each other. I also tested with the car off then on due to engine noise that raises certain low frequencies.

For some of the peaks, I've also tested to see at how much of a cut isn't too much (where it no longer makes a difference) regardless of db drop. I've also tried not to cut more than 12db per frequency. I've probably spent close to 12-14 hours on this project from being ocd lol.

I used low pass filters cause it's more of a linear taper as the tweeters reach their limits instead of cutting at each higher frequency. You could put a shelf on a certain frequency too.

[devil84]

can anyone tell me which mic i could get?

[foveon]

I used a minidsp umik-1 mic.

[valley_nomad]

Originally Posted by devil84

can anyone tell me which mic i could get?

If you want to use AFT DSP PC-Tools' RTA feature you may need a calibrated measurement mic with USB output. The PC-Tools lacks the loopback calibration capability which automatically takes care of any measurement error caused by the computer analog audio circuitry. So the mics with only analog connection to computer, such as my imm-6, will not work with AFT DSP PC-Tools.

A calibrated mic will come with its calibration file which describes its measurement errors at different frequencies. By placing this file (cal.txt) under PC-Tools installation directory any measurement error from the associated mic will be traumatically compensated or corrected during the RTA process.

[devil84]

wow this is getting complicated.

anyway, i did some fine tuning of Foveon's file and used the settings from Nelson for the front BAV setup. my tune sounds spot on now i feel with the trunk sub. everything is crisp

I also upgraded to eton pnp speakers and it really handles the bimmertech amp well. I am loving it now! perfect!

I will put my tune file up if anyone is interested when i get on my laptop!