[M4-CPA]

Currently have a MPPSK exhaust on my 2019 440xi.

I have been gathering my supplies in order to install my new catted Evolution RW DP. I ordered the black thermal coated finish from Turner. I wasn't sure what fittings would come with the downpipe so I ordered a few additional OEM parts from GetBMWParts.

Am I missing anything else that could potentially make this install a PITA?

Parts:
Converter & Pipe Gasket (GetBMWParts #18-32-8-612-538)
Turbocharger Clamp (GetBMWParts #18-32-8-612-537)
Muffler & Pipe Clamp (GetBMWParts #18-38-8-635-798)
Two Esco jack stands
Standard socket set/impact gun/
PB Blaster

Should I rent a pipe expander? Or is that only necessary with a stock exhaust?

On Bryan_KiesMotorsports walkthrough video he made mention to a 90 degree socket tool, but his install was on a N55 and not a B58. I don't mind picking one up if I need it.

Any help would be appreciated!

[tjbierman]

When I did mine I found this tool to be helpful.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Others have said it is not necessary, but it helped me in the cramped space where getting leverage was difficult with other wrenches.

[M4-CPA]

Originally Posted by tjbierman

When I did mine I found this tool to be helpful.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Others have said it is not necessary, but it helped me in the cramped space where getting leverage was difficult with other wrenches.

Thank you sir! I will try and rent one if they are available.

[weehe126]

Rent a 3" pipe expander from one of the auto stores. 99% chance you will need it. Also, spray the slip connection with a little PB Blaster before trying to pull the stock DP out.

[chenry]

if an option perhaps find a local repair shop that would be willing to rent you their lift for an hour or so. i have a local muffler shop that usually has a free lift and for $10 and a thank you he lets me use it

is it necessary? no - does it make things that much easier? yes

just my 2-cents

[Ahanix]

Here's a few things that helped me out with the install.


Make sure you have the right size of wrench for the O2 sensors or they are going to be a PITA to get off. I bought an 02 sensor socket from Amazon, helped a bit but the right size of wrench is fine too.

Get some copper high temp grease so you can pull the 02 sensors off the DP if you need to install the stock one again for any reason.

Jack stands aren't necessary, you can do everything with ramps.

You don't need to remove the skid plate or anything under the car, as long as you get your midpipe loose from the DP and out of the way, the DP can slide right out no problem. I did have to remove the brace that secures the midpipe under the car, so make sure you have some torx bits (I think it's a T30) there so you can make your life easier.

Muffler and pipe clamp should still be fine, but the Turbo Gasket and the Turbo Clamp are a must.

Good luck with the install! if you take your time to look at everything right, it should only take you like an hour, maybe hour and a half to do.

[JD11937]

One other tip, make sure you install the clamp that connects the downpipe to the turbo with the bolt at the bottom. It makes it a little more difficult to get to but if it's too high the waste gate actuator can hit it.

[FirstBMWLA]

Originally Posted by weehe126

Rent a 3" pipe expander from one of the auto stores. 99% chance you will need it. Also, spray the slip connection with a little PB Blaster before trying to pull the stock DP out.

I did downpipes on N54.
downpipe connected to midpipe with a flange and seals.
I guess on B58 downpipe slides into the midpipe?
surprised by need for pipe expander.

[weehe126]

Originally Posted by FirstBMWLA

I did downpipes on N54.
downpipe connected to midpipe with a flange and seals.
I guess on B58 downpipe slides into the midpipe?
surprised by need for pipe expander.

Yes, very different. Can't even compare the two.

[Supr3me]

I'm surprised no one else has mentioned this yet but it's extremely common to have serious struggles getting the nut loosened from the bolt that tightens the V-band clamp between the DP and mid-pipe. The head of the bolt tends to just spin in the fitting and due to the channel it sits in, you can't get vice grips or anything else to hold the head of the bolt to get the nut loosened.
Many, many of us have had to cut through the bolt with a Dremel or angle grinder.
My recommendation is to go buy an appropriately sized replacement bolt and nut ahead of time and make sure you have some kind of power cutter if needed. Fingers crossed you won't need any of this, it turns a 30 min project into a 2 hour project if you do.

[AleksanderSuave]

Originally Posted by Sµpreme

I'm surprised no one else has mentioned this yet but it's extremely common to have serious struggles getting the nut loosened from the bolt that tightens the V-band clamp between the DP and mid-pipe. The head of the bolt tends to just spin in the fitting and due to the channel it sits in, you can't get vice grips or anything else to hold the head of the bolt to get the nut loosened.
Many, many of us have had to cut through the bolt with a Dremel or angle grinder.
My recommendation is to go buy an appropriately sized replacement bolt and nut ahead of time and make sure you have some kind of power cutter if needed. Fingers crossed you won't need any of this, it turns a 30 min project into a 2 hour project if you do.

100% this part about the downpipe. I had to cut the bolt with a dremel. No way around it. A replacement carriage bolt, 2 inch length, I believe 5/64" size, and 2 nuts. Less than $3 at HD. Stainless steel.

The parts list above has you ordering a whole clamp for this..you shouldnt need it. Just a replacement stainless steel bolt and two nuts should do the job fine.

also..not sure why you'd need the replacement clamp between the turbo and DP either..but the fiber gasket is 100% a must (first part on the list).

When you get the downpipe fitted roughly in place, get the bottom inside the midpipe, and then tighten the midpipe hanger (not the downipe to midpipe clamp bolt).

Having the midpipe pushing up on the downpipe will help hold it in proper spot for the turbo, so you can tighten the clamp.


I rented a pipe expander but did not need to use it. My DP was a CTS Turbo, so maybe its dependent on what model you use.

Be careful unplugging the O2 sensors..that whole area is pretty delicate.

A swivel head ratchet...in 3/8 or 1/2 drive..depending on what your socket set is, will make life a lot easier.

https://www.tekton.com/swivel-head-r...ve-size=3-8-in

I use these. The design is common, both harbor freight and Napa have their own version. I think Tekton has a 3 pack (1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive) for $60-$65 on sale.

shallow and deep sockets 100% will help. I used a crowfoot instead of an 02 sensor wrench..but a standard wrench, whatever the actual size was..works as well. Im pretty sure I utilized both depending on the angle and which of the two I was attacking.

and anti-seize on the sensors...

Also..regarding those esco jack stands..good luck man. I have a set as well..likely way too tall for our cars unless you have a way to jack it up nearby first..and the center jack mount is a PITA to get to, you will have to jack it from one of the 4 near-tire jack points first to even get a low profile jack under it.

[M4-CPA]

Originally Posted by AleksanderSuave

100% this part about the downpipe. I had to cut the bolt with a dremel. No way around it. A replacement carriage bolt, 2 inch length, I believe 5/64" size, and 2 nuts. Less than $3 at HD. Stainless steel.

The parts list above has you ordering a whole clamp for this..you shouldnt need it. Just a replacement stainless steel bolt and two nuts should do the job fine.

also..not sure why you'd need the replacement clamp between the turbo and DP either..but the fiber gasket is 100% a must (first part on the list).

When you get the downpipe fitted roughly in place, get the bottom inside the midpipe, and then tighten the midpipe hanger (not the downipe to midpipe clamp bolt).

Having the midpipe pushing up on the downpipe will help hold it in proper spot for the turbo, so you can tighten the clamp.


I rented a pipe expander but did not need to use it. My DP was a CTS Turbo, so maybe its dependent on what model you use.

Be careful unplugging the O2 sensors..that whole area is pretty delicate.

A swivel head ratchet...in 3/8 or 1/2 drive..depending on what your socket set is, will make life a lot easier.

https://www.tekton.com/swivel-head-r...ve-size=3-8-in

I use these. The design is common, both harbor freight and Napa have their own version. I think Tekton has a 3 pack (1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 drive) for $60-$65 on sale.

shallow and deep sockets 100% will help. I used a crowfoot instead of an 02 sensor wrench..but a standard wrench, whatever the actual size was..works as well. Im pretty sure I utilized both depending on the angle and which of the two I was attacking.

and anti-seize on the sensors...

Also..regarding those esco jack stands..good luck man. I have a set as well..likely way too tall for our cars unless you have a way to jack it up nearby first..and the center jack mount is a PITA to get to, you will have to jack it from one of the 4 near-tire jack points first to even get a low profile jack under it.

Thank you, this is all very helpful. The parts that I mentioned came with new bolts, so I’m hoping that I will be all set. Also, I just had my MPPSK installed from the dealership about 2 weeks ago, so I’m hoping that it will still be loose enough from this recent install.

My jack stands should be here early next week, so I haven’t seen the actual height. I was using them because they were reviewed by Kies on his YouTube channel, so I assumed they would be good for this install. If they are too high, then I will jack up the car using the near-tire jack points you suggested.

[AleksanderSuave]

I used a low profile harbor freight jack on each side up front, and jack stand stands on the rear jack points, near the tires. Only way it was doable, you should see if there’s a rent a lift place near you, this project sucks to work on under the car

[Supr3me]

I jacked mine up and then put it on ramps in the front and jack stands in the back, then put some wood under the jack and jacked it up higher, then put wood under the ramps, etc etc lol. Got that bitch a couple feet up in the air lol

[AleksanderSuave]

Originally Posted by Sµpreme

I jacked mine up and then put it on ramps in the front and jack stands in the back, then put some wood under the jack and jacked it up higher, then put wood under the ramps, etc etc lol. Got that bitch a couple feet up in the air lol

How are you liking pure800? Did you install it yourself? That and a wedge tune are my plan next too.

[Supr3me]

Originally Posted by AleksanderSuave

How are you liking pure800? Did you install it yourself? That and a wedge tune are my plan next too.

I did install it myself, it was a two day project for me and a buddy. Someone more experienced than me could do it in one long day.
I'm very happy. I'm still working through tune revisions, but the car is very fast, havent lost any in town shenanigans/races yet. I was pretty close to maxed out on the stock turbo, on a custom E50 Wedge tune but this is significantly faster yet. Just now today starting to use a Dragy to understand real world times and I think I have some bugs to work out there.

Wedge has been good to work with. I had a few hiccups but I think it was partly miscommunication on my part.

[AleksanderSuave]

Originally Posted by Sµpreme

I did install it myself, it was a two day project for me and a buddy. Someone more experienced than me could do it in one long day.
I'm very happy. I'm still working through tune revisions, but the car is very fast, havent lost any in town shenanigans/races yet. I was pretty close to maxed out on the stock turbo, on a custom E50 Wedge tune but this is significantly faster yet. Just now today starting to use a Dragy to understand real world times and I think I have some bugs to work out there.

Wedge has been good to work with. I had a few hiccups but I think it was partly miscommunication on my part.

Ive never done a turbo install..is most of the work above the hood or did you have to get it up in the air for fitting with the downpipe?

Considering tackling it myself, Ive heard of it being a weekend job.

[Supr3me]

Originally Posted by AleksanderSuave

Ive never done a turbo install..is most of the work above the hood or did you have to get it up in the air for fitting with the downpipe?

Considering tackling it myself, Ive heard of it being a weekend job.

I'd never done one before either. It definitely helps to get the car up as high as you safely can. There is some work that can only be done from the bottom and other work that's definitely easier from the bottom.
As I've said before in previous comments, it's really helpful to have a buddy who knows a box end from an open end help with the project. We spent a lot of time with one working from the hood and the other under the car because there are some fasteners you can see better from the hood side, but can't reach from there, and vice versa.

Plan for a full weekend on the project, pull the old turbo Saturday and install the new one Sunday. Should be 6-7 hours each day if you go slow and steady.

This instruction outline was all the supporting info I needed, it's quite good:
https://www.newtis.info/tisv2/a/en/f...rol/1VnYi5oP3w

[AleksanderSuave]

Yeah Id probably take it to a rent-a-bay for this one. Theres one about an hour from me and the guy who runs it is a full time mechanic. sounds like it would be worth more than just renting the lift to get some expertise on it.

[M4-CPA]

Finished this project this weekend - some of the issues I encountered:

1) Pulling the downpipe from the midpipe. I had a MPPSK exhaust installed about a month or so ago, and it's possible they hulked it down, but I had to really go at this to get it disconnected.

I was glad that I picked up a pipe-expander before getting started.

2) Once I completed everything, I had a serious vibration at 1500-2000 rpm's coming from under the passenger side of the car. The only contact that I could see what that the downpipe was resting slightly on the plastic underguard?? Not sure the name of it.

I loosened everything, and used the hydraulic jack to very carefully, and very slightly push up the downpipe, so I could tighten it down. I have a slight clearance now, and it seems to have done the trick.

There is still a droney vibration that occurs at low rpms' - I'd be curious to hear others experiences with ER downpipes with x-drive.

It sounds great, no CEL. I flashed Stage 2 and it feels smoother than it did when I ran a few hours with the new downpipe under Stage 1.

[B58 parts]

My only concern with the downpipe install is how high the car would be jacked up to slide the long pipe in and out of the bottom.

IDK how high it has to be, but I imagine some tiny jack stands on the lowest setting aren't going to be enough. I have the esco stands, no issues with those? Do they have to be way up or is there enough clearance with them somewhere in the middle?

RE vibrations .. I'd loosen everything and torque to spec in correct sequence. Maybe you left a 10mm in the engine bay somewhere.

[M4-CPA]

Originally Posted by YuminNuman

My only concern with the downpipe install is how high the car would be jacked up to slide the long pipe in and out of the bottom.

IDK how high it has to be, but I imagine some tiny jack stands on the lowest setting aren't going to be enough. I have the esco stands, no issues with those? Do they have to be way up or is there enough clearance with them somewhere in the middle?

RE vibrations .. I'd loosen everything and torque to spec in correct sequence. Maybe you left a 10mm in the engine bay somewhere.

I used the Esco to do this install, and I used the second to the lowest setting and I had plenty of room under the car. But I agree, something about being under the stands makes me nervous! I'm just paranoid and watched too many of the Final Destination movies.

I used a little rolling creeper, so I could roll in and out.