[NormanConquest]

Originally Posted by B58togo

You're out of warranty, correct? Why are you going to BMW for this? Why not swing by any reputable auto parts store and have them read the code for free, so you're at least properly informed, and then look for a reputable indy?

I got extended platinum warranty up to 100,000

[amw896]

Originally Posted by Daniely30

I never drive it hard when cold. Until operating temps i stay off the throttle. I don't feel any changes in engine performance. Still pulls very strong.

what oil are you running? I would go thicker based on that kind of wear, especially since you're tuned.

[B58togo]

Originally Posted by NormanConquest

I got extended platinum warranty up to 100,000

Ahh, makes sense then!

[NormanConquest]

Originally Posted by B58togo

Ahh, makes sense then!

Fuel leak sensor but they couldn't find a leak so they toss it up as a faulty sensor.

[Daniely30]

Originally Posted by amw896

what oil are you running? I would go thicker based on that kind of wear, especially since you're tuned.

The oil from analysis was 0w20 mobil 1. Now i got 0w30 liquimoly. Will send for another analysis after 3k

[B58 parts]

I changed my oil a couple weeks ago and sent it out to Blackstone, just got the email today with the results.



So, A) lucky me and B) what you have above is probably not normal and they don't just send the same stuff to every B58 / they don't all wear like that. Sorry man... I would stay on top of it and if it doesn't change it may not be a bad idea to trade cars and silently pass it to the auction.

[amw896]

Originally Posted by Daniely30

The oil from analysis was 0w20 mobil 1. Now i got 0w30 liquimoly. Will send for another analysis after 3k

the wear analysis makes sense if you are running 0w20. My shop says the 0w30 bmw/pennzoil is a very good oil but breaks down poorly over the recommended bmw oci. 6-7k miles is its optimal range. I used to run it when I was stock and it would be very watery after that range. They recommended I switch to 5w30 liquimoly or the 0w40 pennzoil euro once i went bm3 stage 2 and it's been great. I've done two changes on the thicker stuff and it still looks like pretty good after the same range. MPG is a bit worse but the piece of mind is priceless. I highly recommend one of these especially since you're tuned.

[Daniely30]

Originally Posted by amw896

the wear analysis makes sense if you are running 0w20. My shop says the 0w30 bmw/pennzoil is a very good oil but breaks down poorly over the recommended bmw oci. 6-7k miles is its optimal range. I used to run it when I was stock and it would be very watery after that range. They recommended I switch to 5w30 liquimoly or the 0w40 pennzoil euro once i went bm3 stage 2 and it's been great. I've done two changes on the thicker stuff and it still looks like pretty good after the same range. MPG is a bit worse but the piece of mind is priceless. I highly recommend one of these especially since you're tuned.

Thanks for your help. Will definitely look into it

[B58]

I'm not a big fan of the 0w20 and the fact that the oil needs to be replaced by the dealer when the light comes on. I'm full bolt on with meth + E85 blend so in between the dealer oil changes i actually replace my oil around 5,000 miles and when the light comes on i have the dealer replace the oil again.

[B58togo]

Originally Posted by Daniely30

The oil from analysis was 0w20 mobil 1. Now i got 0w30 liquimoly. Will send for another analysis after 3k

Save the Mobil 1 for your lawnmower.

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by B58

I'm not a big fan of the 0w20 and the fact that the oil needs to be replaced by the dealer when the light comes on. I'm full bolt on with meth + E85 blend so in between the dealer oil changes i actually replace my oil around 5,000 miles and when the light comes on i have the dealer replace the oil again.

That's not 100% true. There's a DIY guide somewhere in the F30 section for how to reset the CBS whenever you address maintenance (oil, brakes, etc). Once the "freebie" (we payed for the "free" maintenance in the cost of our cars) period ends, I'll be resetting all the sensors myself.

[B58]

Originally Posted by G.Newt

That's not 100% true. There's a DIY guide somewhere in the F30 section for how to reset the CBS whenever you address maintenance (oil, brakes, etc). Once the "freebie" (we payed for the "free" maintenance in the cost of our cars) period ends, I'll be resetting all the sensors myself.

Yeah, but I don’t reset the light so I can get my oil change through the dealer also. I pay for every other oil change out of my pocket and do it myself just for the sake of my own engine.


Does anyone know if bmw 5w20 exist? I’ve seen 5w30 only..

[aadum]

Originally Posted by B58

Yeah, but I don’t reset the light so I can get my oil change through the dealer also. I pay for every other oil change out of my pocket and do it myself just for the sake of my own engine.


Does anyone know if bmw 5w20 exist? I’ve seen 5w30 only..

why you would want w20 oil?

higher the number behind the W you get better oil resistance to higher temperatures.......
e.g. m5 e60 had 10W60 .....

the first number represents the viscosity of the oil at certain temperature...lower it is better for your car in winter or cooler climates and you get more MPG out of your car....
higher number... needs more time to heat but offer better protection to your engine.....
just my 5 cents.....
sorry for poor english....it's not my mother tongue

[B58]

Originally Posted by aadum

why you would want w20 oil?

higher the number behind the W you get better oil resistance to higher temperatures.......
e.g. m5 e60 had 10W60 .....

the first number represents the viscosity of the oil at certain temperature...lower it is better for your car in winter or cooler climates and you get more MPG out of your car....
higher number... needs more time to heat but offer better protection to your engine.....
just my 5 cents.....
sorry for poor english....it's not my mother tongue

I live in Southern California the coldest temperature we get here is probably 55F lol. I'm simply looking for better protection and i run a E85 blend so my MPG is already out the window.

[aadum]

Originally Posted by B58

I live in Southern California the coldest temperature we get here is probably 55F lol. I'm simply looking for better protection and i run a E85 blend so my MPG is already out the window.

exactly ....i would choose 5w30 or 5w40 due to high temperatures over there

[Araemo]

Originally Posted by aadum

exactly ....i would choose 5w30 or 5w40 due to high temperatures over there

Isn't the engine designed around a 20 weight at operating temps? And doesn't the car do a good job of maintaining the same operating temps regardless of external temp? Admittedly, I've only been in ~100F weather with mine, but it hits the same temps at 100F as it does at -10F (it just gets there a LOT faster at 100F). I've never seen the oil temp fluctuate much after it hits operating temp, no matter how hard I flog it.

You could probably convince me a 30 weight wouldn't be too thick for the engine, but a 40 weight seems like a big difference to me.

Also, with a high-quality synthetic, the difference in weight due to heat is way less than it used to be, so even if your operating temps are 20F higher than mine, I bet a high-quality synthetic would be pretty damn close in viscosity still.

If you're ACTUALLY tracking the car, ignore my post. Track usage is much rougher than even serious back road fun. (But I still don't think I'd go above a 30 weight in this engine without closely monitoring oil temperatures and pressure and doing UOA a lot the first time.)

[G.Newt]

Originally Posted by Araemo

Isn't the engine designed around a 20 weight at operating temps? And doesn't the car do a good job of maintaining the same operating temps regardless of external temp? Admittedly, I've only been in ~100F weather with mine, but it hits the same temps at 100F as it does at -10F (it just gets there a LOT faster at 100F). I've never seen the oil temp fluctuate much after it hits operating temp, no matter how hard I flog it.

You could probably convince me a 30 weight wouldn't be too thick for the engine, but a 40 weight seems like a big difference to me.

Also, with a high-quality synthetic, the difference in weight due to heat is way less than it used to be, so even if your operating temps are 20F higher than mine, I bet a high-quality synthetic would be pretty damn close in viscosity still.

If you're ACTUALLY tracking the car, ignore my post. Track usage is much rougher than even serious back road fun. (But I still don't think I'd go above a 30 weight in this engine without closely monitoring oil temperatures and pressure and doing UOA a lot the first time.)

You can use both LL-01 FE and LL-14 FE+ oils (0W-30 and 0W-20, respectively). They're both in the user manual and are approved engine oils. My dealership has only put in 0W-30 oil and the car runs like a champ. I'll probably go with the slightly thicker oil as I drive the car hard and plan to run a flash tune eventually.

[aadum]

Originally Posted by Araemo

Isn't the engine designed around a 20 weight at operating temps? And doesn't the car do a good job of maintaining the same operating temps regardless of external temp? Admittedly, I've only been in ~100F weather with mine, but it hits the same temps at 100F as it does at -10F (it just gets there a LOT faster at 100F). I've never seen the oil temp fluctuate much after it hits operating temp, no matter how hard I flog it.

You could probably convince me a 30 weight wouldn't be too thick for the engine, but a 40 weight seems like a big difference to me.

Also, with a high-quality synthetic, the difference in weight due to heat is way less than it used to be, so even if your operating temps are 20F higher than mine, I bet a high-quality synthetic would be pretty damn close in viscosity still.

If you're ACTUALLY tracking the car, ignore my post. Track usage is much rougher than even serious back road fun. (But I still don't think I'd go above a 30 weight in this engine without closely monitoring oil temperatures and pressure and doing UOA a lot the first time.)

the viscosity or the working temperature you are reaching easily as number 0 before W is telling you that oil is less thick (easier to move) at lower temperatures 0C.....
W20 W30 W40 is how much is oil resistant or it's viscosity at 100C.... So if you plan to tune your car or something i would have that little higher.... anyhow follow whatever you have in you manual or given by your local dealer

[Faster1160]

read a couple of posts about misfire on B58 engines, pulled the error codes, swapped coil packs around and even spark plugs but, did not fix or let the error reset. Error was for cylinder #1, turned out......new engine, zero compression on #1 cylinder. $24K all covered under warranty from BMW dealership. Car was purchased by myself in Germany, and brought back, US Spec, 2016 340ix M Sport, 31K miles.

[SweBim340i]

I took my F31 out November 2017, and has since driven about 23 000 km (37 000 miles). Commuting to work (20-30 min) and did a Summer holiday in hot European conditions, plus winter driving where I live. Apart from a burglary I have had no real issues with the car until just recently, but I can list the following:

1. Sometimes a bit tetchy steering, which occurs in about 50 km/h and has reappeared as temperatures start to rise.
2. Occasional bugs with iDrive such as forgetting phones or not playing songs when deactivating mute. Usually disappears after next engine start.
3. Warning for low coolant came last week, just on my way home from work through congestion. I drove carefully without A/C. When anyway standing still I switched off the engine 15 seconds and started again. Warning gone. I checked the level the morning after with cold engine - it was below MIN but I could still see the surface (which due to black container is difficult to assess, but looked ok although shimmery...). The lid/filler had some white residue on the inside, but not much. I put distilled water in, and could get 750 ml until MAX. It sunk a little bit until the next day, when I took the car for a spin. Since then it has kept the level despite normal driving.

The small container was almost to MAX, so no issue.

From researching here and on German fora I understand there has been many with similar problems. Given that the level seems (so far) to be stable I assume it is the issue with need of topping up once after the factory filling. On the other hand I think it is rather worrying that the warning disappeared despite the level being below MIN. Not confidence-inspiring with regard to what the car actually tells you.

My first post here, so apologies if I repeat what everyone already knows...

Best,
PP

[OUGrad05]

Interesting thread but most of the probs listed aren't with the B58 it's other ancillary stuff like exhaust muffler, HVAC, window trim, etc etc etc. Seems very few issues with the B58

[B58]

Originally Posted by OUGrad05

Interesting thread but most of the probs listed aren't with the B58 it's other ancillary stuff like exhaust muffler, HVAC, window trim, etc etc etc. Seems very few issues with the B58

It's a pretty solid engine so far as is.