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      12-19-2018, 03:30 PM   #1
navardi
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Lightbulb Forged BMW N20 Engine - 2014 220i *2022 update*

This build has changed alot in the last 4 years, including some of the information in the following replies. I have put alot of effort into developing this platform for the community, and we've made some great success along the way (now owning the world record on the N20 as 1 example amongst many other high HP records for different engines)

But in short the parts on this build as current is:
  • N20 Engine Block
  • N20 Cylinder Head
  • N20 Valvetrain
  • Stock Forged Crankshaft
  • King Main Bearings
  • King Sputter Connecting Rod Bearings
  • ARP2000 Main Studs (BMW M50 Head Studs)
  • ARP2000 Head Studs (EVO X Head Studs)
  • Athena Cut-Ring Head Gasket
  • CP Carrillo Pro-H Carr ConRods (1000+HP Rated)
  • CP Carrillo 84mm 10.0:1 Compression Ratio Pistons + Coatings
  • 1000 HP Rated Wrist Pins
  • Navardi Tuned Custom Darton MID Wet Sleeves
  • Engine Block Machining To Suit The Darton Sleeves
  • Darton Sleeves Installed, Torque Plate Honed and Deck Resurfaced
  • File Fit Piston Rings
  • Washed and Cleaned Block
  • Oil Gallery Freeze Plugs Replaced With A Tapped Pressure Plug - For Easy Cleaning Of Oil Galleries!
  • Bearing Clearances Measured and Appropriate Sizes Matched
  • Crankshaft Cleaned and Crack Tested
  • Rotating Assembly Balanced
  • Block Notched To Suit H-Beam ConRods
  • New BMW OE Timing Chain Assembly (We're test fitting a N55/S55 guide system shortly as a hopeful long term upgrade)
  • N20 Engine Block Time-Serted To Suit M11 ARP Head Studs
  • Refreshed OE Bed Plate Auxiliary Bolts
  • Short Block Assembled and Prepped for shipping
  • Aluminium Valve Cover
  • Upgraded Valvetrain (Ferrea Components) - Only Included With Our 1000 HP Kit
  • Cylinder Head Ported (Data sheet attached)
  • Cylinder Head Cracking Prevention Applied
  • Bimmer Milvs (Increases Valve Lift By 1mm)
  • Cylinder Head Assembled To Block & Head Studs Torque'd Down
  • Crankshaft Surface Treatment (Hardening)
  • NGK 97506 (Stock Gap due to upgraded coils)
  • B58TU HPFP
  • Navardi Tuned 3D Printed Intake Manifold With Port Injection (Photos to come)
  • S63TU EU5 Injectors
  • Custom Exhaust Setup
  • S55 DCT Driveline (in-progress)
  • Compound turbo setup (B48E + Borg Warner EFR series (still TBD))
  • Can Bus Controller for control of the secondary turbo (Takes input signal from DME)
  • FTP Charge Pipe FMIC to Intake Manifold
  • Mishimoto Performance 6.75inch FMIC
  • Dual Walbro 460 LPFPs (Hobbs switch activated and EKP modified for higher Amperage)
  • XHP DCT S55 Tune planned
  • Custom DV setup - TBD
  • Navardi Tuned Oil Filter Housing + cooler + oil filter etc
  • Tuned by ourselves navardiTuned
  • We do our work in conjunction with Brintech Customs - Which you would all know if you have watched the Black Chops video by Mighty Car Mods - great people to work with and great workmanship

Flow rate chart of the head porting (marked the lift in MM from Inches for those who read metric)
Name:  IMG_20221011_200130_304 (1).jpg
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•• Please note this 2022 iteration of the build is still in progress and not complete photos will post as development continues, due to Covid-19 and other life factors alot of this progress has been stifled until this year.

Website NEWTIS has the complete engine manual with all torque specs and procedures-- great for a rebuild.

Estimated rebuilt cost lol honestly I have spent all the time and money on R&D for this platform so you don't have to ... Our engine kits now take all of the guess work out! ROAD TO 1000 HP!

Please Refer to the New WIKI Guide for building your N20 or B48! (build guide is under the N20 Section).

https://bmwenginewiki.com

Last edited by navardi; 11-16-2022 at 06:57 AM.. Reason: 2022 Update
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      12-19-2018, 03:50 PM   #2
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Pics? You mic out the clearances for the rod and main bearings? Did you open up your ring gap and piston-wall clearances? I would like to see this semi-closed deck. I have seen companies like CSS press in a full insert for a closed deck, but I am not sure how a semi closed deck would work without posting. You really going with oem plugs and not a step or two colder?

Last edited by CandyRedRC46; 04-04-2019 at 07:50 AM..
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      12-19-2018, 04:03 PM   #3
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      12-19-2018, 04:13 PM   #4
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So clearances were complete by the engine shop as per the CP piston and rod spec sheet the rings were gapped as per the cp spec for turbo engine, i don't have these specs anymore as engine builder returned the engine and not the piston and rod documentation. OEM plugs for the n20 are already 2 step cold iridium plugs, so no need for anything else, as for semi closed deck dowel pins were inserted into the block using the headgasket as a guide/blueprint.
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      12-19-2018, 04:14 PM   #5
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Attempting to link the photo of the semi closed deck

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nFE...w?usp=drivesdk
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      12-19-2018, 04:34 PM   #6
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More photos
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1VR0...w?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/179u...w?usp=drivesdk

https://drive.google.com/file/d/147U...w?usp=drivesdk
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      12-19-2018, 04:42 PM   #7
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Sub'd, cool build

Looks like the stock rod in that pic is bent. What setup were you running to make that happen?
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      12-19-2018, 05:16 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
Sub'd, cool build

Looks like the stock rod in that pic is bent. What setup were you running to make that happen?
About 22psi but boost spiked to 25, as i had the jb4 incorrectly setup with bm3 for stacking, i was on map 6 running +2psi boost but my FF wastegate setting was dialed in for the stock tune not adapted for the bm3 tune thus overboosting, FOL setting in jb4 was 95 so afrs were 10, which ended up ruining my injectors because the
Demand was too high, so word of caution when stacking a piggyback and an ecu tune, let the tune manage boost, and leave piggyback for either additional fueling or meth/e85 control or PI setup

Car was otherwise completely stock, besides an exhaust with factory downpipe and an custom intake i was also running 40% mix of e85. So wouldn't recommend running that combo on a stock setup also checking settings before a pull is wise
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      12-19-2018, 05:45 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
About 22psi but boost spiked to 25, as i had the jb4 incorrectly setup with bm3 for stacking, i was on map 6 running +2psi boost but my FF wastegate setting was dialed in for the stock tune not adapted for the bm3 tune thus overboosting, FOL setting in jb4 was 95 so afrs were 10, which ended up ruining my injectors because the
Demand was too high, so word of caution when stacking a piggyback and an ecu tune, let the tune manage boost, and leave piggyback for either additional fueling or meth/e85 control or PI setup

Car was otherwise completely stock, besides an exhaust with factory downpipe and an custom intake i was also running 40% mix of e85. So wouldn't recommend running that combo on a stock setup also checking settings before a pull is wise
Yep that'll do it. Sorry to hear that but at least it gave you an excuse to take this build to the next level.

Also: how did the semi-closing of the deck work? Looks like they just put a couple billet rods in the coolant passages. Is that right? I'm sure it works to harden the engine to the power you'll make, but curious how it will effect cooling.
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      12-19-2018, 05:51 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
Yep that'll do it. Sorry to hear that but at least it gave you an excuse to take this build to the next level.

Also: how did the semi-closing of the deck work? Looks like they just put a couple billet rods in the coolant passages. Is that right? I'm sure it works to harden the engine to the power you'll make, but curious how it will effect cooling.
Yea she's built well now! Pretty much they installed the billet rods about 15-20mm down the coolant passage, coolant passage is about 70mm deep, plenty of room for the coolant to flow through, engine coolant temps sit at average of 95°C i also removed the plastic shroud that sits in the front bumper and directs air to the radiator to open up the radiator for better cooling as Australia heat is terrible in summer, on a 37°C day I've seen the water temp hit 111°C on cruising but soon as throttle opens the thermostat drops to 97°C so it has nearly no effect on cooling.
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      12-19-2018, 06:28 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
Yea she's built well now! Pretty much they installed the billet rods about 15-20mm down the coolant passage, coolant passage is about 70mm deep, plenty of room for the coolant to flow through, engine coolant temps sit at average of 95°C i also removed the plastic shroud that sits in the front bumper and directs air to the radiator to open up the radiator for better cooling as Australia heat is terrible in summer, on a 37°C day I've seen the water temp hit 111°C on cruising but soon as throttle opens the thermostat drops to 97°C so it has nearly no effect on cooling.
Okay gotcha. Wasn't sure how deep the coolant passages were. Cool setup Try to keep this thread updated as much as you can. Videos, impressions and everything would be sweet once she's back together!
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      12-19-2018, 06:40 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rjdnyy224 View Post
Okay gotcha. Wasn't sure how deep the coolant passages were. Cool setup Try to keep this thread updated as much as you can. Videos, impressions and everything would be sweet once she's back together!
She's back together now actually, I've done 2400KM on the new build, will link some videos soon once i get a chance, and will be doing some dyno runs after Christmas.
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      12-19-2018, 06:42 PM   #13
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Thanks for sharing. Keep the details and pics coming.

Have you been to the strip yet?
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      12-19-2018, 06:58 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Sub'd

Thanks for sharing. Keep the details and pics coming.

Have you been to the strip yet?
Not yet, but it'll follow shortly after the dyno runs early next year!
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      12-19-2018, 07:02 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
Not yet, but it'll follow shortly after the dyno runs early next year!
Excellent... we are excited for results of both!

Be sure to check out the current N20 / N26 Speed Rankings thread.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh....php?t=1488438
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      12-19-2018, 07:29 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
She's back together now actually, I've done 2400KM on the new build, will link some videos soon once i get a chance, and will be doing some dyno runs after Christmas.
Oh sweet, can't wait to see some videos and dyno numbers! Thanks for sharing this too, love a good build thread.
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      12-19-2018, 07:45 PM   #17
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Amazing work there! Would be very keen to see this in the flesh when it's all completed.

Keep it up, the fastest N20 in Australia
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      12-19-2018, 07:55 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by AUSf22 View Post
Amazing work there! Would be very keen to see this in the flesh when it's all completed.

Keep it up, the fastest N20 in Australia
Cheers mate, its been a fun build and I'm keen to see what numbers it'll make at Eastern creek!
Also happy to help the community on any queries regarding modifying this little engine its no n55/54 but it's definitely something unique and fun to build a decent 4 banger bmw
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      12-20-2018, 08:18 PM   #19
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Thanks for sharing! This is the same route I plan on taking, and have already had my custom turbo built.

I also went with the 9 blade TD04HLR turbine (52/45.6mm)and upgraded bearing kit.

For my compressor I selected the 6+6 blade with extended tip: 49.1/65-69mm. Machinist said there was plenty of meat in there, but the biggest possible match for the turbine.

Also have the CP Pistons, rods, Carr bolts.

Very interested in the Head studs? Do you have part numbers you can share? Did you have to open up the head bolt holes?

Did you do any work to the head? Porting or valve job?

I defiantly like the idea of having the stabilizing rods added to reduce the cylinders from moving. It will probably increase the life of the head gasket.

Do you have any more picture of the cylinder and crank case relief areas for the new rods?

Also do you know which cylinder liners your machine shop used?

How long did the build take you? Did you have to get any new tools for the disassembly and reassembly? I hear the injectors and rod bolts require some unique tools.
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      12-30-2018, 06:17 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stubok View Post
Thanks for sharing! This is the same route I plan on taking, and have already had my custom turbo built.

I also went with the 9 blade TD04HLR turbine (52/45.6mm)and upgraded bearing kit.

For my compressor I selected the 6+6 blade with extended tip: 49.1/65-69mm. Machinist said there was plenty of meat in there, but the biggest possible match for the turbine.

Also have the CP Pistons, rods, Carr bolts.

Very interested in the Head studs? Do you have part numbers you can share? Did you have to open up the head bolt holes?

Did you do any work to the head? Porting or valve job?

I defiantly like the idea of having the stabilizing rods added to reduce the cylinders from moving. It will probably increase the life of the head gasket.

Do you have any more picture of the cylinder and crank case relief areas for the new rods?

Also do you know which cylinder liners your machine shop used?

How long did the build take you? Did you have to get any new tools for the disassembly and reassembly? I hear the injectors and rod bolts require some unique tools.
Hey Stubok, Apologies for the late reply;
Head Bolt holes for the 4 Corner factory 10mm holes will need to be drilled out for the larger 11mm studs, a 12mm drill bit will do the job, for memory this was actually still smaller than the CounterBored hole for the alignment dowels in the head, although the alignment dowel holes in the block will be abit larger so i suggest installing larger alignment dowels, however i did not and my head has still aligned perfectly.

The link for the Head Bolts is here; Just select N55 from the drop down, from factory the N20 and N55 share the same headbolts for the 11mm studs, and the fact the N55 comes with more 11mm studs makes it great if you plan to go 10x 11mm Studs, as for Timeserts i don't have a link as i sourced them locally, but the specs you need is M11x1.5 x30mm Length (you should only require 4 inserts, My case was unique as i ended up using the incorrectly shipped N54 Studs so i had to install the threads at a higher depth than the factory thread)

https://store.vacmotorsports.com/arp...-bmw-p114.aspx (Part No. ARP-HSK-N55)

As for the notching the cylinders, its abit hard to see but here is the link to the photo https://drive.google.com/file/d/1mCa...ew?usp=sharing

No head work has been done, Honestly not required since i am not aiming for very high power figures, also you'd need a spare head to work out just how much material you could remove.

For specialised tools, you will need the Cam locking and alignment tool, Guys who have done a timing chain replacement will know what this is, it can be found on ebay, you can also obtain a oil pump chain locking tool to help do the bolt on the oil chain gear up, its on ebay, don't have a link sorry just remember seeing it on there, Although i never used one and the torque spec isn't very high so using the oil chain to do the bolt up is fine. (I'm sure someone will say this is a big no - no)

Specialised Tools also include, Torque wrenches (really good ones, especially for head bolts etc) but you'll need wrenches than can do 5nm - 200nm, to remove the factory headbolts you will need T55 and T60 180mm long Sockets (the Torx Allens that are on a socket) i sourced these from my local supplier, although you can get away with a standard sized T55 and T60 torx socket on a 3/8 Driver and extension bar. Sockets you will commonly use is E8,E7,E10,E11,E12 (Gearbox Bolts) E14(Fly wheel and AC and alternator Bolts) E18/E20 (can't Quite remember the size) for the factory Strut Brace
You'll want Torx Sockets for T27, T30, T40, T45, T50, T55 and T60 you'll also need a 12 sided 1/2inch Socket on a 1/2 Drive for the Rod Bolts
I Suggest you have a stretch Gauge and stretch the bolts to the CP Spec, Alternatively you can Torque to 79NM (i know you US guys use LB-FT but 99% of the engine will be in NM so you may need to convert, conviently my torque wrenches had both LB-Ft and NM readings as the head bolts had LB-FT torque spec, whilst the rod bolts had both NM and LB-FT)

I am not sure the Brand of my Sleeves, I'm pretty confident they're a Dry Sleeve.

Total time: really depends, on what a variety of factors, my engine builder did his work in a week, the same week i had the turbo sorted, it then took me a few months to reassemble as i had to work and didn't have much time to work on the car, but realistically i would say 3 days for reassembly + 1 Day to put back in the car + 1 more day to connect the fiddly bits like the loom and charge pipes etc.

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      12-31-2018, 08:58 AM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navardi View Post
So clearances were complete by the engine shop as per the CP piston and rod spec sheet the rings were gapped as per the cp spec for turbo engine, i don't have these specs anymore as engine builder returned the engine and not the piston and rod documentation. OEM plugs for the n20 are already 2 step cold iridium plugs, so no need for anything else, as for semi closed deck dowel pins were inserted into the block using the headgasket as a guide/blueprint.
Ok so I guess you are saying that you originally had an N26 engine and now you are using oem N20 spark plugs which are two steps colder than the N26 plugs?
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      12-31-2018, 09:15 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CandyRedRC46 View Post
Ok so I guess you are saying that you originally had an N26 engine and now you are using oem N20 spark plugs which are two steps colder than the N26 plugs?
The N20 and N26 use the same plugs. He just stuck with the OEM ones from the sound of it, though I can see how the phrasing he used would be a little confusing
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