[Fyodor]

Originally Posted by heifetz17

Update: my issue has been more pronounced lately and finally today I got a drivetrain malfunction and cylinder 1 misfire upon heavy acceleration. I swapped my coils around and the misfire followed, so I'll be replacing the coils.

I suppose this whole time what I've been feeling may have been a coil getting weak and causing a mild misfire at high rpm. I'll report back after changing the coils next weekend if this issue is still present.

Hi
How long you with that?

[heifetz17]

Originally Posted by Fyodor

Hi
How long you with that?

I expect my new coil packs to get here Friday and I'll install them and report back.

[330ed]

More research and info for this thread.

The issue only happens when the oil cooler stat opens starting at 69°C and fully open by 75°C. For me the car drives perfectly before the stat opens.

I confirmed this by using Bimmerlink to monitor the trans temp while driving around.

My theory is that when the stat opens its starves the sump of oil causing the transmission oil to be too low for certain gears.

I attempted to top up the gearbox oil following the ZF procedure and it has improved the issue somewhat, I used to get the judder at 69°C exactly and now it needs to be hotter, i.e. when the valve is fully open. I may try to get more oil into it, but to be honest I followed ZF's procedure exactly so I not sure how I'm going to get more in for the 0.5 overfill, it was dripping out, but perhaps I need to be more aggressive forcing it in before closing fill plug. Its a tricky procedure.

In any event here is the procedure. Note: You will need to keep the engine running during the procedure. If you don't, the transmission will piss out oil when you open the fill plug. Its tricky given the Auto stop start likes to cut it out on regular intervals and there is no button to disable in the 330e. Your options are have another person rev it periodically during the fill to keep it running or code auto stop start out temporary with bimmercode (you need to have the engine running during coding to do this - its a bit of a hack and you will get a light on the dash but its only temporary and can easily be coded back).

ZF 8HP automatic transmission: Checking the oil level

1. Start the engine.
2. Check transmission oil temperature Toil
   • a. Toil = 30 °C – 50 °C
3. Maintain the engine speed at 2,000 rpm for 30 s (fill torque converter - there is none in the 330e but no harm ).
   • a. Let engine run at idle speed.
4. Check transmission oil temperature Toil
   • a. Toil = 30 °C – 50 °C
5. Select position P, R and D. Manually shift D1 and D2.
   • a. Hold each gear for approx. 10 seconds.
6. Check transmission oil temperature T
   • a. Toil = 30 °C – 50 °C
7. Open the oil fill lock screw.
8. Does oil run out of the filling hole?
   • a. YES: Wait until only single drops come from the filling hole.
     b. NO: Fill the Oil until it runs out of the filler hole.
     • i. First Check? Yes: Overfill with 0.5 l
     • ii. First Check? No: Go to step 9
9. Close the oil fill screw plug (35Nm).
   • a. Drive the vehicle until the valve opens
   • b. (T 69°C to 75°C).
10. Allow to cool down.
    • a. Repeat steps 1-9 until only single drops come from the filling hole.

[Waylander2022]

So I've finally found out this damn issue after a year and tons of money spent, turns out it was my fuel vent valve(solenoid) which is part of the evap system(the valve is near the intake manifold). Had it in with bmw and they told me these valves fail alot in the 330e's due to corrison. Not sure if you guys got a check engine light(around a month after symptoms showed up) but I eventually got a running rich code which pointed to this issue but I've read sometimes a code may not show up. Cost of repair was 380 quid. Worth checking your evap system for vacuum leaks just to rule this out. Also you will know it's the fuel vent value if you are having issues filling up at a petrol station because the petrol refill will keep clicking when your filling up.

[jcdub]

Originally Posted by Waylander2022

So I've finally found out this damn issue after a year and tons of money spent, turns out it was my fuel vent valve(solenoid) which is part of the evap system(the valve is near the intake manifold). Had it in with bmw and they told me these valves fail a lot in the 330e's due to corrosion. Not sure if you guys got a check engine light(around a month after symptoms showed up) but I eventually got a running rich code which pointed to this issue but I've read sometimes a code may not show up. Cost of repair was 380 quid. Worth checking your evap system for vacuum leaks just to rule this out. Also you will know it's the fuel vent value if you are having issues filling up at a petrol station because the petrol refill will keep clicking when your filling up.

Thanks for the heads up. Great to know the cause of this. It's good to be aware about both the vent valve and the coolant pipe failure.

[330ed]

Originally Posted by Waylander2022

So I've finally found out this damn issue after a year and tons of money spent, turns out it was my fuel vent valve(solenoid) which is part of the evap system(the valve is near the intake manifold). Had it in with bmw and they told me these valves fail alot in the 330e's due to corrison. Not sure if you guys got a check engine light(around a month after symptoms showed up) but I eventually got a running rich code which pointed to this issue but I've read sometimes a code may not show up. Cost of repair was 380 quid. Worth checking your evap system for vacuum leaks just to rule this out. Also you will know it's the fuel vent value if you are having issues filling up at a petrol station because the petrol refill will keep clicking when your filling up.

Great to hear you got it sorted but I think your issue is very different to the one described in the thread i.e. engine not gearbox. I'd imagine that car was bogging, maybe rough idle and irratic RPMs, and the issue presented across the rev range?

[robfm81]

is it an X-Drive? If so, then I had the same issue and it turned out to be the Transfer case (sending drive to the front wheels)

£4k later paid for by the dealer and problem solved, ran as smooth as butter

[Waylander2022]

Originally Posted by 330ed

Great to hear you got it sorted but I think your issue is very different to the one described in the thread i.e. engine not gearbox. I'd imagine that car was bogging, maybe rough idle and irratic RPMs, and the issue presented across the rev range?

Well that didn't fix the issue back in with BMW tomorrow they think it's carbon buildup on the values because our cars are direct injection and mines got 195km so they could be on to something. I think your issue could he carbon build up aswell and not transmission related at all.

[330ed]

Originally Posted by Waylander2022

Well that didn't fix the issue back in with BMW tomorrow they think it's carbon buildup on the values because our cars are direct injection and mines got 195km so they could be on to something. I think your issue could he carbon build up aswell and not transmission related at all.

No, trust me its 100% a gearbox issue and was diagnosed by BMW as such. I've monitored it with my own transmission diagnostic tools myself and can see the issue in real time.

I think your issue is potentially not the same as the one described in this thread.

A carbon build-up is very unlikely. The B48 does not generally suffer from carbon build up issues which were very prevalent on the N style engines

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...b48-check.html

It sounds like the dealer is adopting a hit and hope approach which will ultimately end up costly for you.

One quick way to know if your issue is the same, is to get the transmission temperature up to 75C. You can use BimmerLink to monitor this if you can get your hands on an compatible OBDII adapter (or just bring it for a 20 min drive - should be up to temp by then).

Get the car the 68km/hr at 1500rpm on a clear road.
Gently squeeze the throttle through the rev range of 1500-2000.
You should get a violent vibration that feels like its coming from the rear if its the same issue.
The issue should more less be replicable every time as long as you are up to temp. The issue doesn't happen for me at all up the car is up in the range of 71-75C transmission temp. The trans cooler thermostat starts to open at 69C.

[Waylander2022]

Originally Posted by 330ed

No, trust me its 100% a gearbox issue and was diagnosed by BMW as such. I've monitored it with my own transmission diagnostic tools myself and can see the issue in real time.

I think your issue is potentially not the same as the one described in this thread.

A carbon build-up is very unlikely. The B48 does not generally suffer from carbon build up issues which were very prevalent on the N style engines

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...b48-check.html

It sounds like the dealer is adopting a hit and hope approach which will ultimately end up costly for you.

One quick way to know if your issue is the same, is to get the transmission temperature up to 75C. You can use BimmerLink to monitor this if you can get your hands on an compatible OBDII adapter (or just bring it for a 20 min drive - should be up to temp by then).

Get the car the 68km/hr at 1500rpm on a clear road.
Gently squeeze the throttle through the rev range of 1500-2000.
You should get a violent vibration that feels like its coming from the rear if its the same issue.
The issue should more less be replicable every time as long as you are up to temp. The issue doesn't happen for me at all up the car is up in the range of 71-75C transmission temp. The trans cooler thermostat starts to open at 69C.

S
That's similar to what's happening to me but the vibration is more in the front kind of like the whole car is shaking. I'm getting a running rich code also so I think it's misfiring under heavy load,bmw technician said all cylinders were misfiring slight rough idle aswell. Carbon buildup can happen in these cars because they are direct injection. They have done a leak down test and compression test and all is fine there so it's surely carbon buildup. They are doing it for free aswell so might aswell try it.

[Waylander2022]

Originally Posted by 330ed

No, trust me its 100% a gearbox issue and was diagnosed by BMW as such. I've monitored it with my own transmission diagnostic tools myself and can see the issue in real time.

I think your issue is potentially not the same as the one described in this thread.

A carbon build-up is very unlikely. The B48 does not generally suffer from carbon build up issues which were very prevalent on the N style engines

https://www.northamericanmotoring.co...b48-check.html

It sounds like the dealer is adopting a hit and hope approach which will ultimately end up costly for you.

One quick way to know if your issue is the same, is to get the transmission temperature up to 75C. You can use BimmerLink to monitor this if you can get your hands on an compatible OBDII adapter (or just bring it for a 20 min drive - should be up to temp by then).

Get the car the 68km/hr at 1500rpm on a clear road.
Gently squeeze the throttle through the rev range of 1500-2000.
You should get a violent vibration that feels like its coming from the rear if its the same issue.
The issue should more less be replicable every time as long as you are up to temp. The issue doesn't happen for me at all up the car is up in the range of 71-75C transmission temp. The trans cooler thermostat starts to open at 69C.

I see read your link aswell my car has nearly treble the milage as the guy who posted that picture of his values pretty sure my car was driven hard before I even bought it. Did you get a new gearbox yet then?you mentioned you got it reconditioned?

[EetuHenkka]

Hi!

Anybody figured out yet the juddering problem? Im having the same issue with my 330e. Got error codes from trans switching from 7th to 8th gear, after that plenty of other codes from electric motor etc. But the first one was from trans, it did the juddering now and then before this.

[Alexbutler]

Anyone had this issue resolved yet ? Mines done 102k full bmw service history 5 years old dealer not offering any goodwill

[inmanudwell]

Having this same issue anyone figured out the problem

[k20ITR]

New 330e owner checking in.
2017, 116k miles.

Same issue as described in the thread.

Seems a bit of a coincidence that a bunch of us are experiencing it.

It's definitely only when the car has been properly warmed up.
A shuddering just under 2k revs, from the back, somewhere between 6th and 8th gear.

It would be nice to get to the bottom of this. I've got a 2 year warranty from the dealership I bought it from, so if it's a gearbox issue it should be covered.

This thread seems to have died a bit, but I'd love if someone got this sorted and could share.

Thanks

[jim salter]

Yep, same issue here.

Has anyone figured it out yet?

[Nallu]

I didn't have this exact same issue, but mine acted like this: Sometimes on cold starts putting it in drive and trying to go forward it couldn't, and would barely creep forward. And if i would rev it the revs would climb but the car wouldn't start going anywhere, and after like 1 sec it would then launch forward spinning the wheels instantly because the high revs it got. Ended up at the dealer alot of times, where they constantly wanted to pull codes.. but there was never any codes. After some time they wanted to replace trans so they did that. Calmed down the problem a bit, and after the change didn't completely fix it they also changed the mechatronics. And that fixed it

[jim salter]

Originally Posted by Nallu

I didn't have this exact same issue, but mine acted like this: Sometimes on cold starts putting it in drive and trying to go forward it couldn't, and would barely creep forward. And if i would rev it the revs would climb but the car wouldn't start going anywhere, and after like 1 sec it would then launch forward spinning the wheels instantly because the high revs it got. Ended up at the dealer alot of times, where they constantly wanted to pull codes.. but there was never any codes. After some time they wanted to replace trans so they did that. Calmed down the problem a bit, and after the change didn't completely fix it they also changed the mechatronics. And that fixed it

Thanks for the reply.

Do you believe that the mechatronics was the main fault all along?

(Also, what is the mechatronics? )

[Nallu]

Originally Posted by jim salter

Thanks for the reply.

Do you believe that the mechatronics was the main fault all along?

(Also, what is the mechatronics? )

Hard to tell, but probably yes. And the mechatronics is the "brain" of the trans.

[ReillyAnton]

Hey lads.

Recently got a 2016 330e, 82k miles. It spent 7 weeks in a garage fixing the charging. Had it for two weeks beforehand and on occasion this would happen but on a one off instance. Since I've had it back from the charging repair, it's pretty much an identical issue as everyone above, word for word with how everyone else's is.

One thing I've noticed as well is that once it happens on a drive, it will continue to do it for me until I get home or to my destination. Next time I drive it's fine until I stress it with a hard accel, and from then onwards it won't stop.

I've had my gearbox serviced and fluids replaced today by a BMW specialist, but the same issue is occuring again. He said that the fluid was in desperate need of changing, but the mechanical aspects of the gearbox looked good, and there were no error codes at all from both engine and gearbox.

I am going to replace my spark plugs tomorrow and hopefully get the coils done in the next few days myself, as I feel like it may be a fuel related issue as opposed to the gearbox. Will update if this makes any difference.

But please, if anyone here has had some success in fixing this issue please reply, it would be greatly appreciated! Thanks

[jcdub]

Friend has a 18 month old X5 45e. Was getting slight shutter on acceleration. Wasn't always present. Went to BMW and they diagnosed it as a failed component in the gearbox. Apparently the days that only 4 gearboxes failed globally. So the replaced the gearbox and BMW requested the failed unit be returned for investigation.
Luckily he's under warranty. Otherwise a new replacement would cost €14,000 !

[330ed]

If you read the comments, one of the guys has a 330e from 2016. He changed the entire propshaft and it fixed the problem.

Anyone tried this and had success? - I'm sceptical because it only happens when warm, and it doesn't make sense to me that the prop would only behave like this when the car is warm.

The propshaft is also pretty expensive, about €1,400 from BMW. If it is something to do with the propshaft it's unlikely to be the whole thing. It could be the center mount or the guibo (rubber prop shaft coupler) which are a bit more reasonable to replace.