[SW6Steve]

Now the weather is turning cooler the car heat should start to work.
Heat used to work quite strongly shortly after starting the car, but now seems to take much longer to start working. and the blower seems much less affective. If I turn the heat right up I do get heat, but I normally leave the setting at 19 degrees and just leave it.
I had the EGR recall done a few months ago, and wondered if this could affect the heating performance somehow?
Is this likely to be the cause? Or has anyone else had similar issues with their heater and found another cause?

Thanks in advance

[ukbeemerboy]

I’ve had the EGR recall done and not noticed any difference. The fact it’s really not been that cold yet is probably why you aren’t getting much heat. It was 14 degrees in the southwest today.

[Watsey]

What engine does your car have ?

The 6-cyl diesels have an auxiliary electric heater for the cabin as the engine block/coolant take longer to warm up compared to the equivalent petrol units, but the electric heater in my 30d kicks-in noticeably within a couple of minutes when it's cold weather (and kills the fuel economy in the process - I wish I could turn it off).

Any changes with cabin heating are very unlikely to be linked to the EGR.

[SW6Steve]

Watsey

I have a 330D. Thats what I thought. Heat is usually instantaneous when starting the car, but for some reason seems to have changed. The only thing done since last winter was the EGR recall.
Temperatures have been low enough early mornings for heat. I can definitely feel a change, even the mrs remarked. Could it have been disconnected for the EGR?

Thanks for both replies.

[GOF_430d]

I had the EGR recall for the second time and the engine warms up faster than before.

Could the issue lie with the auxiliary heater in the cabin?

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by SW6Steve

Watsey

I have a 330D. Thats what I thought. Heat is usually instantaneous when starting the car, but for some reason seems to have changed. The only thing done since last winter was the EGR recall.
Temperatures have been low enough early mornings for heat. I can definitely feel a change, even the mrs remarked. Could it have been disconnected for the EGR?

Thanks for both replies.

Two things will have an influence on the electric cabin heater, the part that gives the near instant heat.

1. Ambient temperature.
2. Battery State of Charge (SoC).

[SW6Steve]

Thanks @HighlandPete

It could actually be a combination of the two.
My Battery is at least five years old. So I presume it's capacity will have diminished.
The ambient temperature in the mornings has been between 8-10 degrees.
Do you know what temp the electric heater would kick in, assuming the battery has enough charge?

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by SW6Steve

Thanks @HighlandPete

It could actually be a combination of the two.
My Battery is at least five years old. So I presume it's capacity will have diminished.
The ambient temperature in the mornings has been between 8-10 degrees.
Do you know what temp the electric heater would kick in, assuming the battery has enough charge?

Not sure of the F3x strategy, I'm sure it will be similar to other model ranges.

Will be using ambient and engine temperature (below 75C). Something like 50% between 5 - 10C, and 100% below 5C. That is assuming the battery and alternator 'combined' can handle the energy load, without depleting a battery with a lower SoC. Function can also be 'clocked' according to other power demands.

Current draw can be something like 74 amps. Helps us to appreciate why it might not always appear to be very efficient, the control side may be reducing the output, until there is sufficient capacity in the alternator to run full output, while charging the battery.

[Fez_7]

Interesting... I've a 2012 F30 and even when you put the heating on max you never feel any heat or pressure coming out of the vents but the car does get warm after 5-10 mins (I just leave it on auto with AC always on at 1-2 bars).

When I do press the max button though or have the heater on a high setting (say 4 bars+ in manual mode) it makes a very loud whirring noise which makes me think I need a new blower motor due to a faulty bearing as I've already checked for leaves?

No idea what the lack of pressure through the vents could be down to though. Do you think this is to do with the electric heater being faulty or a low battery maybe?

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Fez_7

Interesting... I've a 2012 F30 and even when you put the heating on max you never feel any heat or pressure coming out of the vents but the car does get warm after 5-10 mins (I just leave it on auto with AC always on at 1-2 bars).

When I do press the max button though or have the heater on a high setting (say 4 bars+ in manual mode) it makes a very loud whirring noise which makes me think I need a new blower motor due to a faulty bearing as I've already checked for leaves?

No idea what the lack of pressure through the vents could be down to though. Do you think this is to do with the electric heater being faulty or a low battery maybe?

Flaps not working correctly? Pressure in the airflow building up? Does it blow air at lower temperatures? Different airflow positions? (Face, upper/lower body).

[Watsey]

Originally Posted by Fez_7

Interesting... I've a 2012 F30 and even when you put the heating on max you never feel any heat or pressure coming out of the vents but the car does get warm after 5-10 mins (I just leave it on auto with AC always on at 1-2 bars).

When I do press the max button though or have the heater on a high setting (say 4 bars+ in manual mode) it makes a very loud whirring noise which makes me think I need a new blower motor due to a faulty bearing as I've already checked for leaves?

No idea what the lack of pressure through the vents could be down to though. Do you think this is to do with the electric heater being faulty or a low battery maybe?

Are the vents actually open, i.e. the roller/wheels for each vent are in their 'max' position ?

[Fez_7]

Yep vents are definitely fully open/on and you only feel an ever so subtle bit of pressure compared to the vent I always have switched off as that's where my phone holder is.

Doesn't make a difference as to whether the fan is on low or high (apart from the whirring noise I mentioned previously) or whether I have it set to upper/lower etc when on manual mode. Yet the car does eventually get warm when I leave it on auto mode!?

However the windscreen vents work fine actually as I don't have a problem with demisting. I'll be looking to replace the blower motor for the whirring noise but I doubt that it will make a difference to the lack of pressure? :

[Fitzy1963]

After the EGR recall I noticed the car gets up to temperature quicker.
I run the hidden menu coolant read out and its now only taking 3-4 miles to reach 80-90 deg used to be 12-13 miles. Always thought that was wrong but the local dealer wasnt interested.

[HighlandPete]

Originally Posted by Fitzy1963

After the EGR recall I noticed the car gets up to temperature quicker.
I run the hidden menu coolant read out and its now only taking 3-4 miles to reach 80-90 deg used to be 12-13 miles. Always thought that was wrong but the local dealer wasnt interested.

Has your mpg dropped, consumption increased? Heat comes from the fuel, EGR values must have changed to run a hotter combustion.

[Fitzy1963]

fuel consumption has improved if anything, I watch it pretty closely
But that may also be because I have started using shell premium fuel