[jalkster]

Since everyone seems to be stressed to the gills on which tune is the way to go, I figured I would share my experience flashing the b58 (MG1).

I was impatient and wanted my car flashed so I paid Alex to do his thing. I went for stage 2. (Aug 1, 2018)

When Alex first flashed my car, it could not make power up top. I was getting all kinds of hesitations. I told him about this, he installed a logging program onto my car, and we found out that it was knocking above 4500 rpm. He said that the car was overboosting at low rpm causing this to happen.

I had a dyno scheduled so I went ahead and dynod it to see some results... I was feeling exactly what the dyno shows. (Aug 9, 2018)**SHOWN BELOW**

After waiting over a week (mind you this is a DD on a bad tune) he sent me a revision map (Aug 21, 2018). The revision map was better, no knocking, but it still felt no good above 4500rpm.

I told Alex this and sent him more logs, which at first told me looked good (Aug 28, 2018). (the car was not running correctly. I was getting very noticeable power cuts above 4500rpm). He set me to the side and after nagging him he finally re looked at the same logs, and ended up saying it was still overboosting (Oct. 17, 2018). He said he would make some changes and it just never happened. I tried contacting him several times, no luck even when he picked up.

This went on for 2 months and I ended up saying screw this. I literally could not get help. I flashed my car back to stock (Dec 14, 2018) and am now running a DME stage 2 flash with jb4, meth going on now.

So no, I was not happy with Mission Performance. It seems he isnt interested in helping much unless you can show up to his front door. Which for those people are good... Ive talked to a few others with very similar experiences as me, but I wont name them. It sucks because im sure Alex is or at least was beyond busy. Being the first to offer something like this is brave at the least.


I AM NOT HERE TO TALK SHIT AS MANY PEOPLE ARE HAPPY WITH MP. I WANTED TO SHARE MY EXPERIENCE AS STUFF LIKE THIS HAPPENS... AND IS LESS LIKELY TO HAPPEN ON SOMETHING LIKE BM3. PATIENCE IS A VIRTUE.

And also, if anyone wants proof or something you can PM me. I have waited 6 months to make this thread as I have felt bad. I dont want to bash anymore than I have. I have not dynod my new tune but I will soon.

[nikman011]

You should tag MissionPerformance so they can respond

[jalkster]

Originally Posted by nikman011

You should tag MissionPerformance so they can respond

Thats cool and yall can see what he has to say, but the last email I received from him was a false manipulation of what actually happened in order to make his case sound better. So Im not expecting much else.

I actually left out quite a bit on my original post to not sound too naggy/aggressive or whatever.

[MissionPerformance]

jalkster , you did call us regarding the power cut/hesitation after 4500 rpm. We have made a revision for you, did logs with you and nothing seems to have helped. The logs looked pretty good, but as you said the car felt not up to par. One thing that I told you the day you ordered, just like I say to every new customer, and once again when you contacted us for the hesitation issue, is that you need to remove JB4. This is not a back end flash, but actual engine software and it will not work correctly with piggy backs. I understand that JB4 has bypass mode/map, but still for troubleshooting purposes, the hardware needs to be as close to stock as possible. But yet, even after the second revision, you still kept the JB4 on your car and as it came to light few months ago, even with JB4 set to map 0, there can be issues caused by it.

A local customer grassy_91 came to us with very similar car setup and also JB4. He got a stage 2 flash, just like yours and the car did have very similar issues. We extended logging parameters to get to the bottom of this and noticed that MAP sensor voltage was inconsistent as well as WG voltage supply for reference sensor. I made 4 revisions for him that day and every time still same issue, just like your car, the power dropped dramatically and car hesitated after 5K. So we ripped out the jb4 from WG and MAP sensor, ran the car and everything went back to normal. No more hesitations to any other issues. The car put down 430+whp and power was smooth and consistent run after run.

If you physically remove the JB4, you are more then welcome to put the tune back on, run it and give us your feedback. I will even authorize a free trans flash since its a must with stage 2. But if you still insist on having JB4 in your car, then there is nothing we can do or help with unfortunately.

[jalkster]

Originally Posted by MissionPerformance

jalkster , you did call us regarding the power cut/hesitation after 4500 rpm. We have made a revision for you, did logs with you and nothing seems to have helped. The logs looked pretty good, but as you said the car felt not up to par. One thing that I told you the day you ordered, just like I say to every new customer, and once again when you contacted us for the hesitation issue, is that you need to remove JB4. This is not a back end flash, but actual engine software and it will not work correctly with piggy backs. I understand that JB4 has bypass mode/map, but still for troubleshooting purposes, the hardware needs to be as close to stock as possible. But yet, even after the second revision, you still kept the JB4 on your car and as it came to light few months ago, even with JB4 set to map 0, there can be issues caused by it.

A local customer grassy_91 came to us with very similar car setup and also JB4. He got a stage 2 flash, just like yours and the car did have very similar issues. We extended logging parameters to get to the bottom of this and noticed that MAP sensor voltage was inconsistent as well as WG voltage supply for reference sensor. I made 4 revisions for him that day and every time still same issue, just like your car, the power dropped dramatically and car hesitated after 5K. So we ripped out the jb4 from WG and MAP sensor, ran the car and everything went back to normal. No more hesitations to any other issues. The car put down 430+whp and power was smooth and consistent run after run.

If you physically remove the JB4, you are more then welcome to put the tune back on, run it and give us your feedback. I will even authorize a free trans flash since its a must with stage 2. But if you still insist on having JB4 in your car, then there is nothing we can do or help with unfortunately.

I never owned or had a JB4 installed until after I removed your tune and went with DME Tuning... so no you didnt say to remove the jb4 because I didnt own one.

Im not sure where you got all of what you just said.

Oct. 13, 2018 an email from me to you - "Hey Alex, last we talked was on my 2nd flash revision and how it still wasnt up to par. I sent you logs and you said all looked good even though I told you the car didn’t feel right. I mentioned putting some 100 octane in it for my track day and how it brought the car alive and also mentioned going WMI.

I talked to a local shop who has experience with doing meth injection on turbo BMWs and they said they emailed you about it to get some pointers on how it was tuned, but never heard back.

Meanwhile Im running a hit and miss tune which isnt very ideal. Id appreciate some effort on getting this fixed. I shouldnt have to correct this with adding unnecessary octane. Id like to go meth but not sure if you’re expecting more money to tune for that or what. JB4 sure sounds ideal for controlling something like that on top of a back end from you. If you aren’t willing to do that then just let me know. "

The only reason a jb4 was ever mentioned was to run WMI... and the only reason I wanted to run WMI at the time is because the car obviously needed more fuel and I couldnt get another revision map out of you to correct this. I was very patient Alex and it sucks it came to this. I definitely didnt want to throw away $1000 for a new tune.

[MissionPerformance]

I just checked notes for your car and I see that you had JB4 on it, of course I can be wrong as we had a few guys with the same name (not going to post it here). But like I have said, the identical thing has happened to few customers before and was only fixed after jb4 was physically removed.

Were your plugs gaped correctly to .022 to 0.20? If so, then your case just makes no sense since a big number of customers is running the same tune as you have run, with no issues and we just dynod one yesterday. If you want to, you can email me and I can authorize you for trans flash together with the engine, just so you can test and see if the problem goes away.

[jalkster]

Originally Posted by MissionPerformance

I just checked notes for your car and I see that you had JB4 on it, of course I can be wrong as we had a few guys with the same name (not going to post it here). But like I have said, the identical thing has happened to few customers before and was only fixed after jb4 was physically removed.

Were your plugs gaped correctly to .022 to 0.20? If so, then your case just makes no sense since a big number of customers is running the same tune as you have run, with no issues and we just dynod one yesterday. If you want to, you can email me and I can authorize you for trans flash together with the engine, just so you can test and see if the problem goes away.

I never told you I had a jb4. Not once.

My plugs are however BMW put them. I was never told to do anything to them.

You know an offer like that would have been cool 6 months ago when we were talking about my issues. Im now in the process of a WMI install ran by JB4 and a DME backend so Im ok. Thats quite a bit of work "just to see".

[MissionPerformance]

Well for some reason you are marked in our system as having JB4.

So your plugs are on stock gap or are they correctly gapped?

[bm3tuning]

I agree jb4 has been causing headaches even in map0 or 4 for the past 2yrs !
Yank that crap out because it serves no good purpose even for meth control it sucks

[jalkster]

Originally Posted by MissionPerformance

Well for some reason you are marked in our system as having JB4.

So your plugs are on stock gap or are they correctly gapped?

If thats true then why didnt you tell me to remove it at the time?

Stock gap. How it came from BMW.

[MissionPerformance]

Originally Posted by bootmod3nyc

I agree jb4 has been causing headaches even in map0 or 4 for the past 2yrs !
Yank that crap out because it serves no good purpose even for meth control it sucks

My question is why? I have had the same issue with so many customers now. I have a felling htat its a new function in later firmware revisions for the JB4 to show a bit lower base line numbers then car actually puts up. That is the only explanation I came up with after logging a few cars with it to see the cause.

[jalkster]

Originally Posted by bootmod3nyc

I agree jb4 has been causing headaches even in map0 or 4 for the past 2yrs !
Yank that crap out because it serves no good purpose even for meth control it sucks

Interesting. Would you recommend a Snow performance controller or what?

[MissionPerformance]

Originally Posted by jalkster

If thats true then why didnt you tell me to remove it at the time?

Stock gap. How it came from BMW.

Stock gap can not be used on stage 1.5 or stage 2. You are facing spark blowout.

Every single customer that calls us for stage 1.5 or above is told to make sure the gap is set correctly and JB4 is not present. Thats also has been discussed in great detail on the forums as stock BMW gap is way too big.

[MissionPerformance]

Originally Posted by jalkster

Interesting. Would you recommend a Snow performance controller or what?

Snow perforamce is great but I like the HPC Methanol controller made by a Canadian guy. They are very cheap but work amazing.

[jalkster]

Originally Posted by MissionPerformance

Stock gap can not be used on stage 1.5 or stage 2. You are facing spark blowout.

Every single customer that calls us for stage 1.5 or above is told to make sure the gap is set correctly and JB4 is not present. Thats also has been discussed in great detail on the forums as stock BMW gap is way too big.

I promise you that I was never once told that. Even after complaining and asking for a solution for 4 months.

I would have tried anything. I was willing to spend money out of my pocket for WMI so it would run correctly.

So idk man. I guess I wasnt one of those customers. I remember reading on your thread that you didnt want to deal with JB4, but nothing on having to gap your plugs. Maybe provide a quote or link showing that spark plug gapping was 100% necessary?

Why isnt PTF telling people to do this?

[MissionPerformance]

Gapping plugs as a must since BMW runs wild gap for MPG and emissions reasons. Because we run aggressive power levels and also do not overload the stock coils, the gaping is a must. Even with JB4 you must be gaped on their more agressive maps.

[jalkster]

Originally Posted by MissionPerformance

Gapping plugs as a must since BMW runs wild gap for MPG and emissions reasons. Because we run aggressive power levels and also do not overload the stock coils, the gaping is a must. Even with JB4 you must be gaped on their more agressive maps.

So when I ran that tank of 100 octane the need for gapped plugs went away?

I had 0 issues and it felt very fast on 100 octane. Too bad it costs $150 to fill up, which is why people run meth (why I wanted to) for octane and not race gas.

[MissionPerformance]

Originally Posted by jalkster

So when I ran that tank of 100 octane the need for gapped plugs went away?

I had 0 issues and it felt very fast on 100 octane. Too bad it costs $150 to fill up, which is why people run meth for octane and not race gas.

These cars do not run boost, by instead by torque target. You can meet that target by either having low octane gas and lots of boost or by good gas and lower boost. So when you are running 91/92, you are running more boost to get to the torque target. With more boost, you are raising cylinder pressure, and thus giving the spark a much harder time to jump and ignite the mixture. This is why you need smaller gap. With higher octane, you are running much lower boost (as much as 5psi difference), and thus the gapping is not required as much. Still highly recommended but not a 100% must.

[jalkster]

Originally Posted by MissionPerformance

These cars do not run boost, by instead by torque target. You can meet that target by either having low octane gas and lots of boost or by good gas and lower boost. So when you are running 91/92, you are running more boost to get to the torque target. With more boost, you are raising cylinder pressure, and thus giving the spark a much harder time to jump and ignite the mixture. This is why you need smaller gap. With higher octane, you are running much lower boost (as much as 5psi difference), and thus the gapping is not required as much. Still highly recommended but not a 100% must.

Well if gapping was the issue, then yeah the 100 octane removed the issue because the car felt great with race gas.

Which I told you all of this at the time Alex. It just really sucks its came to this. It would have been great to have this information when I really needed it. And maybe you should check up on the others who have said their tune isnt perfect.

Im almost willing to gap them "correctly" and run the tranny flash as well to see if there is a difference. Because now im curious

[MissionPerformance]

Originally Posted by jalkster

Well if gapping was the issue, then yeah the 100 octane removed the issue because the car felt great with race gas.

Which I told you all of this at the time Alex. It just really sucks its came to this. It would have been great to have this information when I really needed it. And maybe you should check up on the others who have said their tune isnt perfect.

Im almost willing to gap them "correctly" and run the tranny flash as well to see if there is a difference. Because now im curious

If you gap them right and combine with trans tune, the car really turns into monster. Its a night and day difference. Also, when you gap, be very careful. Its very easy to crack the plug putting it back in.

[nikman011]

Originally Posted by MissionPerformance

If you gap them right and combine with trans tune, the car really turns into monster. Its a night and day difference. Also, when you gap, be very careful. Its very easy to crack the plug putting it back in.

Should we GAP if we are running Stage 2.5 with trans on 93?

[MissionPerformance]

Originally Posted by nikman011

Should we GAP if we are running Stage 2.5 with trans on 93?

93 is decent gas, but anytime we pass stage 1, I recommend gapping. BMW plugs are not the best in the market and we have seen one stock car have gaps ranging from 0.030 to 0.34 all in the same batch. So setting your own gap to 0.022 is a good precaution and should make your car feel much smoother over all.