[GotThatBlue]

The claims period has been extended to April 30, 2021
https://timingchainmodulesettlement....d=0?portalid=0

Ours just failed. Have learned a lot in the last few days.

My advice, if you’re in doubt or anywhere around 80k, just get both chain assemblies replaced. A mechanic's video on Youtube, guy says just replace it if you're at 85k, don't chance it with this known issue. Wish I’d known all this 5k miles ago.

I'm waiting to hear back from BMW NA as I've asked them for some "good will" as our mileage just ticked over, 100,797, so until I hear their decision I'll refrain. I'll share my story more later in more detail.

Suffice it to say, our engine didn't blow, but probably should've. These N20/26s should've been a recall or call to service action. It's bogus that you have to wait for some kind of sign to get it checked out. Ours gave no indications but a "Low Oil Pressure" light warning, very strange, no sounds, no slippage, nothing. Car felt solid really... I'll write more on it later, but this isn't right.

[dave14x28]

Good luck, hope your dealer is customer-centric. I am lucky in that I do not have a dead car to deal with just yet. "I'M NOT DEAD YET!!! Oh shut up, you'll be dead in a minute..."

Been thinking a lot about this, trying to figure out what's really failing so I can gauge my risk. Here's my theory:
- plastic guides wear
- timing chain links wear
- both contribute to extra slack
- tensioner doesn't have enough spring force and/or enough travel to keep chain taut
- chain begins to ride up on the sprocket teeth, especially on the intake cam sprocket which has the least amount of "wrap" around the sprocket
- there appears to be very little top clearance between the chain and the descending guide next to the sprocket, so the chain begins to push on the leading "finger" of the descending chain guide between the intake cam and the crankshaft, pushing the guide to the right, away from the sprocket
- this force is what causes the thin plastic to break at the tabs that connect it to the upper guide between the camshafts
- this force also causes the descending guide to pivot CW about its lower retaining screw, and this it what causes the thin plastic to break where the descending guide attaches to the ascending tensioner guide at the tensioner guide pivot screw - note which part of the plastic breaks, it's exactly the portion that gets stressed when the descending guide rotates CW.
- once the descending guide moves to the right slightly, there is even more slack in the chain for the under-powered tensioner to take up, and the further the tensioner extends, the less force it exerts on the guide

[dave14x28]

excellent writeup from DBU @ Bimmerfest on tensioner replacement: https://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/at...6&d=1532363351

Short story is that there was one tensioner design thru 2007 that had a thicker head and less travel. Then from 2007 to 8/2016 a newer design with thinner head and more travel. Then from 8/2016 on, a newer design that look the same on the outside but with a stronger spring (not sure if it is stiffer in lbs/inch, or more preload, or both, but whatever - it was modified to be stronger for a reason).

[dave14x28]

famous (?) photo from bmwtechnician, where I circled the two plastic failure points in red. He had posted pics of another failure where the portion in blue had broken completely off and was jammed under the intake VANOS sprocket.

[dave14x28]

what it's supposed to look like assembled. hard to tell from this angle but from other vids & pics I've seen (esp. FCPEuro's, see 2nd pic) it looks like there is very little clearance between chain and guide where the chain wraps around the intake sprocket on the right. This is also the part of the chain with the highest tension, as this section carries all of the power required to drive the two camshafts. And it has the least amount of "wrap" around the sprocket teeth, so it NEEDS tension from the upstream side to keep it from jumping teeth on the intake cam sprocket. So if there is ANY slack at all, the chain is going to ride up on the teeth and push on the descending guide.

[dave14x28]

another tensioner comparo, this from wvadam @ bimmerfest here: https://www.bimmerfest.com/threads/t...#post-12934945

note the oil orifice moved, and I saw another vid where a comment was made about the orifice in the tip being a different size, but these small changes may not have much to do with the performance of the tensioner, which I suspect is driven entirely by the spring inside and the "piston area" that the oil pressure acts on. As far as I can tell from this photo, it doesn't look like the diameter of the piston changed.

[dave14x28]

@anders3 & @gauravr2005 - I too am getting the "blank stare" from my SA at the local dealer who claims to know nothing about the lawsuit or claims process. BS I think. I also have not yet been able to get any definition from them of what will be considered claimable if we go ahead and start taking it apart. To me this is clear - elongated chain, cracks in the plastic guides, and wearing of the plastic are all component failures described by the lawsuit. But if they're going to disagree after taking it apart, that's a problem.

Tempting to try the borescope route...

Also thought about a spectrum analyzer app - the timing chain is driven by a 19 tooth sprocket on the crankshaft, so the dominant frequency of any chain noise should be 19x running speed (one link per tooth...). For example, 1000 rpm is 16.7 Hz, so chain noise at 1000 rpm should be 16.7x19 = 317 Hz. But like anders3, my chain noise does not seem to be very pronounced (or my hearing isn't so great), so I don't know if it will show up.

I have checked chain slack several times and have seen it be about as loose as this photo below from the FCPEuro vid. Thinking about buying the BMW tool to check the slack myself, now and in the future.

Note that in that example, upon disassembly the same descending guide locations are failed as seen in other people's posts. So am guessing my guides are in similar shape, if my chain is just as loose on occasion...

[dave14x28]

anyone have a recommendation for a shop in eastern PA to have the N20 timing/oil pump modules done on my xDrive X1?

[BWbimmer]

You are absolutely right.
This problem exist since aroung 2002 with the N42/46 engine.

There it started the other way around.
- The entioner was not stong enough and the so the chain had too much play.
- too much play created edditional stretch
- higher wear on the sprockets
- not rubust enough guide material

The reason for the misinterpretation of BMW's chain constuction was that it is all right in a 6 zylinder. But, just cutting 2 cylinders off creates a whole lot of other problems, manily in the area of vibrations. The 6 zylinder doesn't wear out the chain and thentioner as much because it runs much smoother. BMW did't take this in consideration when they just copied the system from the 6 Zylinder and didn't strengthen it.

[adhrp]

Originally Posted by dave14x28

anyone have a recommendation for a shop in eastern PA to have the N20 timing/oil pump modules done on my xDrive X1?

I saw Lehigh Valley Motors in Hellertown, PA mentioned somewhere on the forums for the TC job at a decent price. You could inquire with them.

[dave14x28]

thanks adhrp. coincidentally I ran across that name just last night. I will give them a call.

[bimmermpls]

So I’m really worried since my 2013 328 Xdrive MY 2012 with 83k miles has been in an accident that cost BMW 18k, although I don’t think the engine has been touched and only the suspension parts were replaced along with a big chunk outside the engine bay.

Here’s a video of what the car sounds like. Could anyone tell me if I should be concerned? Sounds very loud and this is right after I stuck my index finger underneath and sensed about a 1/2 inch space.

Never driven in eco mode. Auto start/stop disabled since 50k miles for sure. I bought it at 24k miles.

https://youtube.com/shorts/0H6y44DRglI

[F30lolz]

Originally Posted by bimmermpls

So I’m really worried since my 2013 328 Xdrive MY 2012 with 83k miles has been in an accident that cost BMW 18k, although I don’t think the engine has been touched and only the suspension parts were replaced along with a big chunk outside the engine bay.

Here’s a video of what the car sounds like. Could anyone tell me if I should be concerned? Sounds very loud and this is right after I stuck my index finger underneath and sensed about a 1/2 inch space.

Never driven in eco mode. Auto start/stop disabled since 50k miles for sure. I bought it at 24k miles.

https://youtube.com/shorts/0H6y44DRglI

Hard to tell as you would need to leave the phone near the engine bay while you rev the motor to hear any significant whine. The first part of the video sounds like above normal typical n20/26 noise.

[gauravr2005]

Originally Posted by dave14x28

@anders3 & @gauravr2005 - I too am getting the "blank stare" from my SA at the local dealer who claims to know nothing about the lawsuit or claims process. BS I think. I also have not yet been able to get any definition from them of what will be considered claimable if we go ahead and start taking it apart. To me this is clear - elongated chain, cracks in the plastic guides, and wearing of the plastic are all component failures described by the lawsuit. But if they're going to disagree after taking it apart, that's a problem.

Tempting to try the borescope route...

Also thought about a spectrum analyzer app - the timing chain is driven by a 19 tooth sprocket on the crankshaft, so the dominant frequency of any chain noise should be 19x running speed (one link per tooth...). For example, 1000 rpm is 16.7 Hz, so chain noise at 1000 rpm should be 16.7x19 = 317 Hz. But like anders3, my chain noise does not seem to be very pronounced (or my hearing isn't so great), so I don't know if it will show up.

I have checked chain slack several times and have seen it be about as loose as this photo below from the FCPEuro vid. Thinking about buying the BMW tool to check the slack myself, now and in the future.

Note that in that example, upon disassembly the same descending guide locations are failed as seen in other people's posts. So am guessing my guides are in similar shape, if my chain is just as loose on occasion...

Honestly I was saved by my 3P warranty. I was unsure when I got it but it just paid thrice its value already. I would recommend Easycare with my eyes closed to everyone. Seems like I just need to pay the 100$ deductible. Its totally worth to go and show the TC to the stealerdhip or an indie. I was right around the failure and my engine would have gone kaboom if I hadn't read the horror stories here. Its high time BMW takes ownership of this issue. When I used to read about this I used to wonder - "not my car" but as someone earlier said - its just a matter of time.

[Slick_FThirty]

Originally Posted by bimmermpls

So I'm really worried since my 2013 328 Xdrive MY 2012 with 83k miles has been in an accident that cost BMW 18k, although I don't think the engine has been touched and only the suspension parts were replaced along with a big chunk outside the engine bay.

Here's a video of what the car sounds like. Could anyone tell me if I should be concerned? Sounds very loud and this is right after I stuck my index finger underneath and sensed about a 1/2 inch space.

Never driven in eco mode. Auto start/stop disabled since 50k miles for sure. I bought it at 24k miles.

https://youtube.com/shorts/0H6y44DRglI

You need to rev it. It's most audible in the 3000-4000 rpm range.

[sjbender]

Full docket text for document 162:
NOTICE OF APPEAL as to [159] Order on Motion for Settlement by Charles H Federman. Filing fee $ 505, receipt number ANJDC-12261435. The Clerk's Office hereby certifies the record and the docket sheet available through ECF to be the certified list in lieu of the record and/or the certified copy of the docket entries. Appeal Record due by 3/16/2021. (Attachments: # (1) Final Order, # (2) Certificate of Service)(FELGOISE, BRIAN)


Full docket text for document 163:
USCA Case Number 21-1491 for [162] Notice of Appeal (USCA), filed by Charles H Federman. USCA Case Manager Stephanie (Document Restricted - Court Only) (ca3amr)

http://www.sjbender.com/162.zip

[dave14x28]

Originally Posted by Slick_FThirty

You need to rev it. It's most audible in the 3000-4000 rpm range.

And I'm guessing the noise is emanating from the top of the descending guide that runs from the intake sprocket (driver's side) down the crankshaft.

Normally, the chain should not touch this guide at the sprocket where it is concave, but only further down where it is convex and it is designed to deliberately push the chain out of its natural straight-line shape and into a gentle curve.

But when the chain is getting loose (due to a combo of elongation, guide wear, and inability of the tensioner to maintain proper tension), it likely rides up on the intake cam sprocket teeth and begins to push against the top of the descending guide, making more and more noise the looser it gets. If it pushes hard enough, it will first crack the flimsy spots where the guides assemble together, and with even more force the top of the guide breaks off (see bmwtechnician's photos for a good example of this). By that time, you're probably jumping intake cam sprocket teeth.

It's possible that if the chain noise is bad enough, that a spectrum analyzer app like Spectroid could show this. Gonna try...

[dave14x28]

Originally Posted by chrisca70

... So I will be applying for partial reimbursement as part of the Class act. Will get about 55% of the repair expenses back...

Hey chrisca, any progress on your claim? curious how that all works...

Having mine worked on next week, going to keep a sharp eye out for guide wear & cracking or chain elongation.

Printed out the claim application and declaration of maintenance forms just to see what I will need to fill in.

[Jonwho2]

So I found out my car has one of these prone to failure TC. The dealership said I had until may to bring it in for an inspection. The thing is I have FBO and a tune.

Do I need to go back to stock before I bring it in? The tune is no problem, but I live in a apartment with limited space to work to get the FMIC and DP on.

[sjbender]

The appeal docket has shown up on Pacer. It appears there is an appeal to the amount the lawyers are being paid.

http://www.sjbender.com/21-1491.pdf

[S55bruh]

Might still be warranted under SULEV warranty.

[SteelCT]

Originally Posted by S55bruh

Might still be warranted under SULEV warranty.

interesting. PA seems to be limited to 7 year/70,000 miles, but my car was originally sold in NJ. I wonder if it would it fall under that 15/150k warranty.