[nyc_dude]

Anyone in the UK may already know about Royal Steering Wheels and they have been featured by BMW UK enthusiasts on youtube.

When I received my used BMW 2015 F30 335i M-Sport shipped cross country from a dealer in GA, one of the disappointing features was the poor quality plyleather steering wheel with a very slimy feel. I am coming from a BMW e90 M3 with 180k, and needed a reliable daily driver for my 100 mile round trip commute in LA. A 10 year old BMW e9x M3 is a way better car than a modern F3x M-Sport. I get the joy of driving both each week, the M3 for fun.

Jack at Royal Steering Wheels offers a care free retrim service for most steering wheels, especially BMWs, Mercedes, Porsches, and even Mustangs. My new BMW Sport leather steering wheel is gorgeous with a few custom touches. The best photos are on the website with some nice options show.
Jack does everything via email and paypal. Jack will also perform an expert install for local UK customers.

http://royalsteeringwheels.com

The care-free service allows you to order a custom steering wheel for about $200-250 dollars. It is ready in 1-2 weeks and shipped to you anywhere in the world. Just specify car model, auto trans with paddles or not, and heated or non-heated wheel. Then specify the material, and any customer features like M stitching or a colored stripe at the top. Nappa Leather or Alcantara or a mix. Smooth matte leather or perforated leather. I think the Alcantara comes in black or dark gray. Extra padding is an option for that great extra thick feel of a BMW M steering wheel. The leather wheel I got with extra padding is not cushy, but feels great. Jack has some trim pieces and accessories in stock if you need them, especially for older e46 M3s, etc.

The best part is you get the new steering wheel in a few days, and then swap the accessories during the install. So there is no down time for your car. Then return the core steering wheel within a week or two. There is a 200 GBP core charge, which is refunded after the old wheel is returned. Jack pays the shipping to you. You pay the return shipping to the UK for the core. The return shipping cost is between $35-55 to the UK. Jack uses parcel monkey. Very simple shipping prelabeled via FedEx or UPS to the UK. Just drop off the box at a Kinkos/FedEx or UPS Store. All the VAT and Import Taxes are taken care of in the process. Total cost will be $250-300.

Check online and you will see new steering wheels costing $500-$1500 depending on customization. Most on ebay come from Germany or Eastern Europe (Lithuania). Hit or miss. No core exchange either.

I am going to have my BMW e90 M3 wheel retrimmed later in the year. My M3 wheel had the nice thick feeling I can't live without, but it was a shiny leather from the start. Now it is worn and a little cracked, but still feels good. The early pre-LCI F3x sport steering wheels used a shiny leather as well, but it is much poorer build quality. If you feel around the perimeter, the thickness and cushion changes from top to bottom. I think the newer F3x LCI steering wheels are nicer, closer to an M steering wheel or M performance steering wheel. Driving my underwhelming BMW M-Sport 335i everyday with the sloppy Adaptive-M suspension and lazy electronic steering feels alot better with the touch of a fine Nappa Leather Sport steering wheel.

So, there is a small catch with the install. Despite being an engineer I couldn't do the swap of the steering wheel accessories very easily. The multi-function buttons and the rear trim cover didn't fit like a sandwich. I damaged the rear of one of the multi-function buttons and the screw hole broke off. Most steering wheel parts are about $40, but the multi-function buttons are $225.

A week later and some superglue and it worked. But I had to force the back and multi-function buttons together. The tiny electrical connectors also don't come apart very easily. In general, the poor build quality of the metal wheel spokes and screw holes makes fitment an issue, plus the brittle cheap plastic parts break easily. The small gap between the rear trim cover and buttons is small, and you can't see it while driving. Doesn't effect any functions. Also the bottom rear trim and top trim cover don't come together at the M label well with the single screw, which might strip. Again, you can't see it. I am guessing Euro and US/CAN steering wheels have very small build quality differences, and you get these small fitment issues. I also broke a small plastic tab in the airbag connector, but it didn't effect anything.

One biggie is that with electronic steering wheels, if you have to reconnect the battery while wrestling with the new steering wheel accessories over a few days, you will get about 12-15 codes that you have to clear. Make sure you have a code reader handy, like Carly. You might have to clear codes a few times until you get everything working without faults. I think I couldn't get a steering wheel heater code to go away. Don't need the SW heater in LA.

This Youtube video gives you a sneak peak at Jack and his work on an e46 M3 in the UK. Jack provided some accessories to make this BMW enthusiast a very happy driver.

Post any happy customer reviews with their new Royal Steering Wheel in this thread.

Cheers

[nyc_dude]

OK you have your new Royal Steering Wheel and you have to perform the install by swapping the controls and accessories. Here are some tips. There are tons of youtube videos on steering wheel swaps for both BMW e9x and f3x cars.

Tools:
10mm socket for Battery Terminal
16mm socket for Steering Wheel (Torque 62 N-m or 46 ft-lbs)
T-20 Torx Screwdriver
Precision Screwdriver set (really small)
Pick Tool Set
Small Long Screwdriver
Plastic Trim Tool
Exacto Knife
Emery Board
Cell Phone Camera
Code Reader

Optional:
Painters Tape (tape the tip of your screwdriver)
LED Worklight
Gloves
Torque Wrench
Superglue

Work in a clean area on a bench with a towel. The new leather steering wheel is delicate. Since you will be using sharp tools, you don't want to damage the leather. Recommend the accessories swap be done in the house on a table or in the kitchen with plenty of natural lighting. It is also a good idea to photograph the before and after for each step, since the wiring is neatly tucked away and the connectors/accessories/trim screws/trim covers are a pain.

Take your time. Yes it might only take an hour, but don't rush and break an expensive plastic BMW part.

1. Disconnect the battery negative terminal using a 10mm socket. Bring a towel to wrap the loose connector. Lots of metal in the area near the battery. Put a small towel or sock in the trunk lock. You can't open the trunk with the battery disconnected, if it gets closed accidentally. I would roll down the drivers side window before disconnecting the battery.

NOTE: If there is a delay and you have to reconnect the battery, set the alarm, and close the trunk, you will need a code reader to reset the12-15 codes that will pop up.

2. Use a long thin screwdriver to pop the airbag. There are two dedicated holes on the bottom of the steering wheel for this. Check youtube. Also look at your new steering wheel to see the clips on both sides of the center metal ring. Think 7 and 5 o'clock.

NOTE: For a e9x there are slits in the steering wheel to release the airbag. Feel with your fingers for the dimples. If you have a 6 spd without paddles don't use them. Remove the front trim with a T-20 Torx (from the rear) and then slide a screw drivers along the metal spoke down to pop the clip on each side. Youtube is your friend.

3. There are three connectors for the airbag on the steering wheel hub. If you ram a screw driver into each connector the plastic tabs will break. Use your fingers to release each connector. If that doesn't work, tape the tip of a small screwdriver and gently try to release each connector. If the tab breaks the connectors will still lock in place. Leave the airbag in the car for safety. Photograph the center hub and note the wires are all tucked away from the airbag when inserted.

4. The steering wheel is removed with a 16mm sock and long socket wrench. It isn't that tight. Uuuurrrggg. Unscrew the bolt by hand and leave it in place. Then remove the steering wheel in case it is tight with the bolt in place. Then unscrew the bolt and pull off the steering wheel. Take it inside.
Avoid working inside the car with little natural light and room.

5. Photograph the steering wheel from all sides. OK video is cool too. Note the way the wires and connectors are tucked away on the right, left, and bottom. Also note the screw colors. Silver screws are long and black screws are short. DONT MIX THEM UP. Note the seams between the rear trim cover, front trim cover (bottom) and the multi-function controls. Silver screws are inside the front hub. Black screws are in the back.

6. Remove the front trim cover. Front trim has a small BLACK T-20 screw in the rear at the bottom behind the M emblem. There are two SILVER T-20 screws in the hub closest to the center on the right and left side. Then the trim tool can be used to pop off the top trim at the top. Be very gentle. The M3 F8x has a different front trim cover with a see-through slit that you can swap out. Some are carbon fiber.

7. Now take more photographs of the center hub. The front trim cover blocks most of the details of how the connectors and wires are neatly tucked away. Take note that the wires for the new steering wheel have to be tucked away so that you cannot see them with the front trim cover reinstalled. This ensures that the air bag will fit neatly back in this cavity and not crush the wires.

8. The next SILVER T-20 screw is for the AutoTrans (or DCT) shift paddles. The paddles are connected by wires with small blue connectors. Huge pain to release the connectors. Look for a small blue dot/pin on the top of the connector. That is the edge to stick a small precision screwdriver or pick tool to release the connectors. This is a gentle step. You are not having sex with it. Cheap brittle plastic will break. Note how the right side connectors are stacked with the blue connector above a black connector, tucked away with a black plastic tie. Once the paddles are removed, the rear trim cover can be removed.

NOTE: The paddles sit in rectangular holes in the rear trim panel. Before removing, photograph how they sit in these holes. They are not flush, but sit at an angle. This lets you click the paddles to shift. Also note that this means the screw angles are offset. Remove one shift paddle, and then look at it vs. the other one. Then dry fit it back in the hole, so they fit the same and click.

NOTE: If you look at the back of the center hub and the rear trim, you will see alignment pins and holes inside. See how they fit with both the old and new steering wheels. Photograph this view.

9. The paddle holes in the rear trim reveal the BLACK T-20 screws for the multi-function buttons. Unscrew gently. There is a wide black connector on the right side of the multi-function buttons. Try to avoid disconnecting this if you can get a way with it. Any screwdriver you use to try to disconnect it will break it. I think disconnecting the large black connector near the blue connector is enough. A new OEM wiring hardness is about $40, if any of these wires or connectors get damaged.

NOTE: There are three holes in the wheel spokes. The first inner hole is for the paddles (SILVER T-20), the second hole is an alignment hole for the black pin in the back of the multi-function controls, and the third hole is for the multi-function controls (BLACK T-20). You might have to use the emery board to file the ends of the plastic alignment pin to fit the new wheel.

NOTE: In general, these holes in the metal spokes are correct in terms of position and alignment (angle). You might have to redrill these holes to make the rear and front trim fit together. Some who have added paddle shifters had to drill the holes.

10. Next there is a BLACK T-20 screw for the ground wire to remove.

11. Photograph this step after removing the rubber inserts. There are 2 connectors at the bottom spoke for the heated steering wheel option and the lane departure warning vibrating mechanism. There are rubber covers that reveal these devices. They unplug easily. The only trick is there is a metal tin clip that holds the vibrating mechanism. It seems to be glued in place with some adhesive which is crusty. It you gently use a trim tool or screwdriver (with tape on the tip), you can release the tin clip from the bottom, each side at a time. Don't bend it too much or break it.

NOTE: New M Performance Wheels comes with a replacement tin clip.

12. Drink 2 beers before proceeding. If you forgot to buy beer go back to Step 1 and drive to BevMo.

13. Now for the fun part. Reassembling your Royal steering wheel. Dry fit the rear cover, and multi-function buttons. If they fit like a sandwich, drink another beer. Dry fit the front trim and rear cover and see if the bottom (below the M emblem) fits together. If they fit like a sandwich, drink another beer. You are home free, order a pizza.

NOTE: If after dry fitting, there seems to be too much excess leather or padding near the metal spokes (right, left, bottom) where they meet the multi-function controls, try trimming some material away. Use the exacto knife to CAREFULLY trim the leather and padding material. I think it is a build quality issue that prevents the trim from fitting with no seams. But extra thick padding and leather could be part of the issue.

NOTE: Royal Steering Wheel sent me a wheel with an extra metal ring in the rear of the center hub. It comes apart easily with 3-4 rubber grommets. Toss that and return it with the core. Not sure if it is for X-Drive or other optioned vehicles. It you leave the extra metal ring on, the rear trim won't fit with the front trim and multi-function buttons.

14. Install the lane departure warning vibrator with the tin clip. Install the rubber inserts.

15. Dry fit the rear trim cover, rear paddles and multi-function buttons. You will need to reconnect the blue and black connectors and then tuck them away neatly. The wires need to be out of the way of the center metal hub, in order for the airbag to fit later. Also connect the lane departure warning connector and heated steering wheel connectors.

16. When ready use the BLACK T-20 screws to install the multi-function buttons. Be very gentle. This is the step that can break these parts which are the most expensive to replace, other than the airbag. DONT use the SILVER screw, since it is too long.

NOTE: The rear cover should fit flush at the seam with the multi-function buttons. If it doesn't, you have to force the two parts together while screwing the BLACK T-20. Don't over tighten the BLACK screws. Stop and evaluate the seam before doing the second multi-function button.

17. Use the SILVER T-20 screws to install the paddles. Remember they don't sit flush in the rear trim cover holes, but at an angle. Test the clickiness of the shift paddles.

18. The front trim can now be reinstalled. Snap in the top and then use the SILVER T-20 screws to attach it to the wheel hub. Check seams.

19. Screw in the BLACK T-20 screw behind the M emblem to finish attaching the front trim. Be very gentle. The rear and front trim might leave a small seam. There also seems to be a tiny spring inside the front trim hole. Weird. Only make this moderately tight.

20. Install the steering wheel back in your car. Always make sure the battery is disconnected. The airbag might blow if there is power to the steering column. Use the 16mm sock and a little force. Doesn't have to be torqued perfectly, since it is electronic steering.

NOTE: There is an alignment mark that is barely noticeable on both the steering column and the steering wheel at 6 o'clock. So you can't incorrectly insert the steering wheel. Photograph it at the start if you need to.

21. Plug in the 3 air bag connectors. Snap in the airbag.

22. Reconnect the battery and tighten with a 10mm sock.

23. Start the car and look for fault codes. Whip out the code reader to clear them a few times, if necessary. Take you car for a test drive in a safe area. You might need to keep the code reader nearby, if any codes pop up later.

24. DONE and DONE: Blow your own horn and celebrate. Yes you have to test the horn. Test the steering by driving in a circle in a parking lot. Test the clicky paddles in a safe area while performing your first test drive. Safety features need to be tested in a safe area right away.

NOTE: Test the heater and lane departure warning functions later. Also test the multi-function controls over the next few days.

Try to maintain the leather in your car, including the steering wheel with some leather products every 6 months. More often, if you live in a very dry and hot region like the southwest. An auto shade or tint would help with UV light. Try to get a cheap hand towel and place it over your steering wheel, if your car is parked in the sun for many hours a day (home or work). Garages work even better.

The carbon fiber M-Performance trim piece is very nice. It is made for an M3/M4, so you have to get the rear cover piece too. There is a slit through both trim pieces. Look for a deal on the OEM CF Trim on ebay or check for holiday deals.

Good Luck,

Cheers

[nyc_dude]

Bumper Cars

[nyc_dude]

The fine points of the wiring before and after the steering wheel swap.

Sorry Canada...No steering wheel heater function.

Cheers