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      06-25-2019, 08:58 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by YuminNuman View Post
Just ordered the Valvoline 5w40 diesel. Ha

Based on a bunch of reading it seems like a good idea. We'll see. I may not run it in the winter but even then it looks safe to run.
It meets/beats 0W-30 cold crank properties. You should be fine in the winter. And those heavy duty diesel trucks gotta start to get to work no matter what
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      06-27-2019, 09:05 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by j1980mac View Post
Lol don't go off of my recommendation. I'm not a mechanical engineer. I don't know anything about oils other than I don't wish to stray too far away from OEM.

When I was referencing LL04, what I really meant was LL01 (my oversight).

LL01 and LL14+ are BMW approved oils for the B58 according to my X3 M40i manual.

I don't know that LL04 would be a good thing (or not) for our engines.
So, something that I'm not sure is obvious... One of the big things about these OEM-approved oil specs is the additive list. When the german OEMs started moving to direct injection, they had to do something to address carbon buildup on the valves. Contrary to popular belief, they knew about this issue, and DID do something to mitigate it. The SAE (I think it was the SAE, it may have been a different automotive organization though) had done studies on how to mitigate the carbon buildup and found that oil additives could make a noticeable difference without requiring drastic engineering changes.

So, BMW, VW/Audi/etc, created specs that require certain additives in the oil to fight carbon buildup. They don't prevent it, but they reduce it.

So, I would suspect, the LL-01 was the first oil with those additives for gasoline engines, and LL-14 is the updated spec with lower overall friction for higher efficiency, and possibly new/different additives for the same purpose.

The rest of this is just my experience, but it is informing my current choices:
My last car was also direct injection, modified, and I didn't run a catch can. At about 60k miles, I was getting the intake manifold replaced under warranty and the dealer offered to walnut-blast the valves for cheap since everything was off.

I had them take before/after pictures, and showed them to my tuner. My valves were WAY cleaner for a 60k tuned car without a catch can than most 30k tuned cars with catch cans.. most of whom run 'high performance' oils without the OEM approvals, while I ran fully OEM-approved oil with half-duration change intervals. I think the combination of using the OEM-approved oil, and reducing the change interval to ensure the additives didn't get used up, kept my valves way cleaner than if I had been using a 'high performance' oil without the OEM-specified additives.

So, I won't run an oil that doesn't have the BMW spec on it (Well, I MAY be convinced to run an oil with an equivalent VW/Audi or Merc spec, but I'd have to do some research on BITOG or similar to see what may fit the bill..) but since I also don't feel the need to run a super-heavy oil, the OEM oils seem sufficient to me. I just don't let the car go the full duration between changes. (It is worth noting that the condition-based servicing alone lowers my change intervals from the quoted 10k, but I'm probably hovering around 5k-6k changes, on average, because I'm always at the dealership a couple k early and just get it done while it's there.)
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      06-27-2019, 04:34 PM   #47
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Really interesting test.

I've been changing mine every 5K. I use the Twin Power 0w 20 LL14+.

After my first break in oil was out (1300 miles), I added a syringe of Tribotex. Not sure if it is snake oil. In theory nano particles sound like something out of a sci-fi thriller.

I can see the argument to run a thicker oil on a tuned car, but I agree, not out of the OEM spec.
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      06-27-2019, 07:14 PM   #48
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Just for everyone not wanting to look at the manual but Xw-30 and Xw-40 are within spec.

(I run 5w-40 in the summer, 0w-40 in the winter in Michigan)
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      06-29-2019, 06:35 AM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j1980mac View Post
After my first break in oil was out (1300 miles), I added a syringe of Tribotex. Not sure if it is snake oil. In theory nano particles sound like something out of a sci-fi thriller.
I had to google that stuff.... DLC is real, but DLC is applied to surfaces using phase vapor deposition, I think DLC in your oil is not going to do much.
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      07-01-2019, 11:38 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by drivef30 View Post
Just for everyone not wanting to look at the manual but Xw-30 and Xw-40 are within spec.

(I run 5w-40 in the summer, 0w-40 in the winter in Michigan)
I need to check my manual. I have a 340i too but that looks different than mine.
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      07-04-2019, 06:23 AM   #51
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B58 oil

i have a 340i and live in France. Here all oils are LL04 for my engine, there is no LL01. But LL04 as i know is for diesel!
What to do in this case???
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      07-04-2019, 02:41 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by janea1207 View Post
i have a 340i and live in France. Here all oils are LL04 for my engine, there is no LL01. But LL04 as i know is for diesel!
What to do in this case???
I think you might be okay.

https://f30.bimmerpost.com/forums/sh...85&postcount=4

It looks like EU fuel contains lower levels of sulfur and thus the low level SAPS in the oil isn't a bad property. But over here in the US and other countries with high sulfur content gas, it's a no-go. Take all of this with a grain of salt, however.

"BMW Longlife-04 (BMW LL-04)
Special BMW approval for fully synthetic long-life oil. Viscosities are SAE 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-30 and 5W-40. Usually required for BMWs equipped with a diesel particulate filter (DPF). Can also be used where a BMW Longlife-98 or BMW Longlife-01 oil is recommended."
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      08-22-2019, 10:36 PM   #53
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Anyone use rotella t6 with the archoil 9100 additive? That's the combo I have used on my tuned BMW 335d and it has been great.
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      08-23-2019, 06:50 AM   #54
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Im running Liqui Moly Molygen 5w40 and Mann oil filter. Will be changing my oil out in 2,000 miles and sending a sample to Blackstone labs. Will update this thread when I get my results back.
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      08-24-2019, 03:02 PM   #55
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I gotta say I am really liking the Valvoline 5w40 diesel .. it's running mint. The idle is weird you can barely tell it is running and it is rev happy. I have posted here before about a rough idle .... 0w20
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      10-03-2019, 05:46 PM   #56
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https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/

I was reading the link above and the only thing I read about using diesel motor oil in the B58 or any modern gas engine would be early failure of the catalytic converter. Anyone know anymore about this? I am still planning on using a 5w40 diesel oil like rotella t6 or maybe even Amazon basics 5w40 heavy duty diesel oil.
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      10-04-2019, 05:21 AM   #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joemann892 View Post
https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/

I was reading the link above and the only thing I read about using diesel motor oil in the B58 or any modern gas engine would be early failure of the catalytic converter. Anyone know anymore about this? I am still planning on using a 5w40 diesel oil like rotella t6 or maybe even Amazon basics 5w40 heavy duty diesel oil.
Oil blowby is burnt up in the combustion chamber and exits through the exhaust. It's possible that the additives in diesel oil can clog/damage catalytic converter element.
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      02-11-2020, 06:06 PM   #58
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Anyone have experience with LiquiMoly Special Tec 5w30? I always used the LiquiMoly leichtlauf in my old N54, but it looks like that only comes in 5w40 and I don't want to get that thick. Plus the Special Tec seems like a great deal right now on FCP. Would I be fine running this stuff in SoCal on a stage 2 tune?
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      02-11-2020, 07:21 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MyNameIsNotSure View Post
Anyone have experience with LiquiMoly Special Tec 5w30? I always used the LiquiMoly leichtlauf in my old N54, but it looks like that only comes in 5w40 and I don't want to get that thick. Plus the Special Tec seems like a great deal right now on FCP. Would I be fine running this stuff in SoCal on a stage 2 tune?
That 5W-40 will be fine for you in SoCal lol. It doesn't get cold enough to where you're worrying about the winter viscosity rating and it has the same 40 weight when hot as all the other European oils.

Get whatever is the cheapest, full synthetic oil you can find that meets spec, and change oil at 5k intervals. 0W-30, 5W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40.
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      02-11-2020, 07:36 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joemann892 View Post
https://www.bimmerworld.com/BMW-Engine-Oil/

I was reading the link above and the only thing I read about using diesel motor oil in the B58 or any modern gas engine would be early failure of the catalytic converter. Anyone know anymore about this? I am still planning on using a 5w40 diesel oil like rotella t6 or maybe even Amazon basics 5w40 heavy duty diesel oil.
Very possible that a diesel oil can harm your cat. How likely is it? You'd need to read the oil's data sheet. Specifically, looking at the Valvoline 5W-40, it meets API SN, which is a gasoline oil rating and is designed for vehicles with particulate filters, EGR, and emissions devices.

The phosphorus and zinc is high, which are two elements that can cause damage to cats.

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publi...2-ac162d889bd1


Now saying this, I've yet to hear of a failed cat from diesel oil use. These are anecdotal and not scientific, but if you head over to read Rotella T6's reviews on Amazon, you'll find people that run it in everything from a 7.0 Cummins turbo-diesel, to a Kawasaki bike, to a Miata, and to a WRX.

This scientific article says yes, it can harm cats: https://www.researchgate.net/publica...ne_dynamometer
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      02-12-2020, 11:21 AM   #61
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I use 0W-40 European blend from Walmart if I can't get Liquimoly 0W-40
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      02-12-2020, 11:50 AM   #62
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Oil blowby is burnt up in the combustion chamber and exits through the exhaust. It's possible that the additives in diesel oil can clog/damage catalytic converter element.
I just switched to Rotella T6 yesterday. When I drove my car, I noticed my exhaust smelled different. Im catless, and very familiar with the typical catless smell, but now it smells "dirty" for lack of a better word. Would that explain why it changed up?
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      02-12-2020, 01:22 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.Newt View Post
Very possible that a diesel oil can harm your cat. How likely is it? You'd need to read the oil's data sheet. Specifically, looking at the Valvoline 5W-40, it meets API SN, which is a gasoline oil rating and is designed for vehicles with particulate filters, EGR, and emissions devices.

The phosphorus and zinc is high, which are two elements that can cause damage to cats.

https://sharena21.springcm.com/Publi...2-ac162d889bd1


Now saying this, I've yet to hear of a failed cat from diesel oil use. These are anecdotal and not scientific, but if you head over to read Rotella T6's reviews on Amazon, you'll find people that run it in everything from a 7.0 Cummins turbo-diesel, to a Kawasaki bike, to a Miata, and to a WRX.

This scientific article says yes, it can harm cats: https://www.researchgate.net/publica...ne_dynamometer
I ran T6 exclusively in my supercharged 350z over the past 5 years and while there's likely some variation in Air Care Colorado's testing methods, emissions testing last year showed higher emissions than before I started using it. That said, turbo thrust bearings love zinc.

As far as additive packages go though, I'd also be interested in the calcium/moly content nowadays given the prevalence of LSPI in newer engines. Maybe the B58 doesn't have issues with it, but given most OEMs tend to try to hold the taller gears at higher load/lower rpm under normal conditions, it may be worth at least talking about. Castrol used to be super low calcium, but my understanding is that it's crept upward in recent years..
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      02-12-2020, 02:17 PM   #64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by about94ninjas View Post
I just switched to Rotella T6 yesterday. When I drove my car, I noticed my exhaust smelled different. Im catless, and very familiar with the typical catless smell, but now it smells "dirty" for lack of a better word. Would that explain why it changed up?
Give it a few days. It's likely that you got oil on either your valve cover, cylinder head, turbo, etc. and it's just burning off.
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      02-12-2020, 09:18 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kern417 View Post
Give it a few days. It's likely that you got oil on either your valve cover, cylinder head, turbo, etc. and it's just burning off.
That's what I thought too, but it seems like its coming from the exhaust. Didn't spill much if any. I'll give it a couple days and see what happens. I changed the spark plugs too, but don't see how that would matter. Car seems to like it tho so no problems there
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      02-18-2020, 09:42 AM   #66
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Is the BMW branded Shell 0w-20 really not that good?

It seems like a great option to run in cold temperatures.

The Liqui Moly rep in this video kind of gives away the game, I think:



Oil now is more about just being a fluid to deposit additives on the engine parts, and less about the base oil actually lubricating bits.
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