11-07-2019, 06:50 AM | #1 |
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Spark Plugs / BM3
I know there are countless threads on this topic, but my question is - I've never changed spark plugs on a car before, so changing mine on my f30 seems potentially foolish. Especially since I'm running BM3 stage 2.
So for those of you who also changed theirs for the first time and are running stage 2, did you regap? I bought all the tools - but just a standard non digital torque wrench. Unless someone can convince me this is super easy / straightforward I'll prob ask a friend of mine to do it who owns a shop. Having said that I'd like to do it myself |
11-07-2019, 08:15 AM | #2 |
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Most plugs come gapped already and unless Ace Ventura was the one delivering the package, there should be no reason to regap.
I've done over 20 plug changes from American to German to Japanese cars and they are pretty straight forward. Should be no need for any coding afterwards. A thin walled 14mm spark plug socket is recommended but with our cars, a regular deep socket should be fine because of the plug placement. A set of wobble extensions will come in handy especially for the plug closest to the firewall. I've never used a torque wrench and I've never applied any type of grease on the thread. I do one plug at a time. This is just my personal preference. Now if you are going to DIY the valve cover gasket, that is a different nightmare altogether with this car.
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11-07-2019, 03:45 PM | #3 |
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You're a legend, legend! I'm confident I can handle it now. Do you remove that piece that covers the 4th sp? Cheers
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11-07-2019, 06:19 PM | #4 | |
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See attached photos. If you have a different engine there should be a spark plug recommendation on the BM3 website. Usually the stock type Bosch plugs are brittle and tend to break if you try to gap them down. Suggest that you watch Kies Motorsports YouTube videos. Bryan changes spark plugs on several models. Caution: There are fake NGK plugs floating on the market. Burger and FCP Euro are two sources that I'd trust to have genuine NGK plugs. Hope this helps! |
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11-07-2019, 07:43 PM | #5 |
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Nope no need. It's tight but has just enough clearance. There will be wiggling involved. Lots of it.
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11-08-2019, 07:29 AM | #6 |
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johnung
I have an N20 and all the tools - purchased the plugs from FCP Euro. Thx for the info mate. |
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11-08-2019, 07:59 PM | #7 |
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I'm bm3 stage2 n20 and from what I've researched, you should regap the plugs so the gaps smaller than stock.
Around 0.018-0.022 is the rough range I've seen floating these forums. |
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11-08-2019, 08:15 PM | #8 |
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yea just drilled a 2in saw hole through the plastic and you dont have to worry about putting joint socket and all that wiggling because it will be straight just like all the other sockets. yea you'll have a hole but it will be cover up by the top plastic cover and save your self the swear words
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11-08-2019, 09:07 PM | #9 |
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The N20/N26 engine is the easiest engine that I've even done spark plugs on. So the N55 should be similar if that's what you have. You need no tools to take the ignition coils out, just pull them out, and all you need is the correct 14mm thin wall socket, I bought one on Amazon for $5, and a 3/8 swivel and some 3/8 extensions to go with your 3/8 ratchet.
Spark plugs to use when modded are the original OEM NGK plugs, NGK part number SILZKBR8D8S (97506), BMW part number 12120039664. Torque to 17 ft lbs. The original gap works fine with a bootmod3 Stage 2 Flash. It won't misfire or anything but if that gap bugs you I've heard .020" to be the magic number. The 4th plug on the N20 isn't difficult to replace. Just use a smaller extension and insert the tools at an angle from the left, there's room under the windshield cowl. |
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11-08-2019, 10:59 PM | #10 |
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TBH did not read the thread, just the OP, and just wanted to say it's super easy. Took me about 15 minutes, and half of that was just removing the plastics to get to the back plug. Just make sure you have the right socket for the plugs and it should be a breeze.
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11-09-2019, 06:23 AM | #11 | |
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11-10-2019, 01:49 PM | #12 |
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1 more question Legend - so when you tighten the new plugs do you just tighten to the point where they are good and secure?
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11-11-2019, 12:08 AM | #13 |
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11-11-2019, 11:14 AM | #14 | |
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Dude must not have wrenched on many cars then. Any FWD 4 cylinder with a cylinder head running horizontally would have no obstruction to any plug
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11-12-2019, 10:47 AM | #15 |
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Pretty much. They come with a crush washer so when tightening, you can usually hand tighten all the way to the washer. Then it takes probably a turn an a half to crush the washer. It would take some ridiculous strength to keep turning which at that point, you've overtightened.
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11-12-2019, 05:37 PM | #17 |
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The word "need" can be debated but increased combustion chamber temps from mods require colder plugs. This is just a fact.
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11-12-2019, 06:22 PM | #18 |
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I’m using my original BMW NGK’s with factory gap on stage 2 with no issue. PTF recommends this for the N55 but nothing specific to N20/N26. I can’t say whether I would get better performance if I changed the gap.
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11-12-2019, 07:12 PM | #19 |
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Changed the plugs today - the first 3 were a breeze, the 4th was not a breeze. I drilled the 2" hole in the plastic cover for future easy access as suggested in this thread. My ratchet kept coming undone on the 4th one due to the angle.
Started car and got a malfunction - reconnected all of the coils and then it started up fine. Car idles MUCH smoother, feels a bit stronger during acceleration, but didn't drive it more than a mile or 2. When running a tune, especially stage 2, I've read many members here change plugs much more often. In hindsight I should have used a shorter extension for the 4th plug. |
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11-14-2019, 07:01 PM | #20 |
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Today I had several hours in the car - what a difference new plugs made! I'm at 47,000 miles.
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