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      04-02-2021, 11:57 PM   #1
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Camber Plates Design Comparison

For a while I've thought, "All the monoball camber plates are pretty much the same." Having the recent luxury of having three different makes of monball camber plates (Ground Control, Vorshlag, and Millway) and inspecting them further I've found that my perception was really wrong. There are clear design differences with each, translating into strengths and weaknesses.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Index
-0:00 Intro
-0:25 Ground Control Overview
-2:21 Ground Control Thrust Bearing/Spring Perch
-3:50 Ground Control Strut Brace Ring
-5:59 Ground Control Camber Adjustment
-6:58 Ground Control Monoball
-9:34 Vorshlag Overview
-10:48 Vorshlag Monoball
-12:45 Vorshlag Camber Adjustment
-13:05 Vorshlag Thrust Bearing/Spring Perch
-15:39 Millway Overview
-17:14 Millway Thrust Bearing/Spring Perch
-18:49 Millway Monoball
-21:50 Camber Plate Mounting Hardware
-23:26 Closing Thoughts
*EDIT*
As a follow up, if you're wondering how to replace the monoballs in your Millway camber plates I made the video below on the process.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Index
-0:00 Intro
-0:16 Monoball sleeve/shim removal
-1:26 Locking ring removal
-3:59 Pressing out the monoball
-6:09 Pressing in the new monoball
-9:25 Locking ring installation.
-11:51 Monoball sleeve/shim installation
-12:34 Monoball dimensions and closing remarks
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Last edited by FaRKle!; 04-14-2021 at 10:07 AM..
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      04-03-2021, 06:42 PM   #2
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Great info as always! Thank you very much for posting. How did you know I spent the last 2 days reading through old posts on these camber plates, but came away still wishing for a direct comparison? (Ha!)

I've been trying to decide on which to buy as I have a B16 PSS10 kit waiting for install. Going to have plates done at the same time. I think I am going Vorshlag. I like the articulation and hardware.

One thing I have to consider is my aftermarket strut tower brace; I just looked at the Vorshlag on their website and it looks like they use bolts from the bottom up with nuts on top, is that right?

Thanks again for the side-by-side comparison!
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Last edited by Foxtrot3Zero; 04-03-2021 at 07:01 PM.. Reason: Hardware for Vorshlag?
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      04-03-2021, 11:15 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxtrot3Zero View Post
Great info as always! Thank you very much for posting. How did you know I spent the last 2 days reading through old posts on these camber plates, but came away still wishing for a direct comparison? (Ha!)

I've been trying to decide on which to buy as I have a B16 PSS10 kit waiting for install. Going to have plates done at the same time. I think I am going Vorshlag. I like the articulation and hardware.

One thing I have to consider is my aftermarket strut tower brace; I just looked at the Vorshlag on their website and it looks like they use bolts from the bottom up with nuts on top, is that right?

Thanks again for the side-by-side comparison!
One thing about the Vorshlag with OE spring perch is that it might not articulate like the coilover spring version does. I'd give them a call and check. The Bilstein coilover kits use springs with OE diameters up top.

The Vorshlag has bolts that screw in from the top down, the same as the OE top mount.
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      04-04-2021, 08:30 AM   #4
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Great video, Farkle. I have a few thousand trouble free miles on my Millway monoballs, but once they expire I will be replacing the slider assembly with the Street version. Thankfully it looks like a very simple conversion, much easier to deal with than the keyed lock ring you point out.
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      04-04-2021, 10:22 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Foxtrot3Zero View Post
Great info as always! Thank you very much for posting. How did you know I spent the last 2 days reading through old posts on these camber plates, but came away still wishing for a direct comparison? (Ha!)

I've been trying to decide on which to buy as I have a B16 PSS10 kit waiting for install. Going to have plates done at the same time. I think I am going Vorshlag. I like the articulation and hardware.

One thing I have to consider is my aftermarket strut tower brace; I just looked at the Vorshlag on their website and it looks like they use bolts from the bottom up with nuts on top, is that right?

Thanks again for the side-by-side comparison!
"How did you know I spent the last 2 days reading through old posts on these camber plates, but came away still wishing for a direct comparison?"

Because Mr farkle is the all knowing lord of f3x land lol. Thanks for another great breakdown of some aftermarket kit
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      04-04-2021, 07:35 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB View Post
Great video, Farkle. I have a few thousand trouble free miles on my Millway monoballs, but once they expire I will be replacing the slider assembly with the Street version. Thankfully it looks like a very simple conversion, much easier to deal with than the keyed lock ring you point out.
What is the adjustment range with the street version? I'm interested.

So my current front negative camber spec is -2.25. This is with the wheel hub correction for an additional -.5 and the M Performance Suspension kit which gives it an additional -.5 to -.75 of camber.

The concern is the inside edge wear on my winter tires. I'd like to get back to maybe -1.5 to -1.75 so there's less tire noise in the winter season and not have the tires ride that much on the inner edge. However, at the track, I'd like about -2.75 to -3.0 to keep the front outer edges from getting chewed up too bad.
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      04-04-2021, 09:09 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB View Post
Great video, Farkle. I have a few thousand trouble free miles on my Millway monoballs, but once they expire I will be replacing the slider assembly with the Street version. Thankfully it looks like a very simple conversion, much easier to deal with than the keyed lock ring you point out.
What is the adjustment range with the street version? I'm interested.

So my current front negative camber spec is -2.25. This is with the wheel hub correction for an additional -.5 and the M Performance Suspension kit which gives it an additional -.5 to -.75 of camber.

The concern is the inside edge wear on my winter tires. I'd like to get back to maybe -1.5 to -1.75 so there's less tire noise in the winter season and not have the tires ride that much on the inner edge. However, at the track, I'd like about -2.75 to -3.0 to keep the front outer edges from getting chewed up too bad.
I am sitting with -3 up front but I am fairly low at the moment. With your mods I would imagine you can easily get -3 since Millway lists up to -2.0, on an otherwise stock car maybe not. I have a ton of leftover adjustment (~1/2) at my current ride height.

This needs verification but I am almost certain the F3X Millway plates can accept either the Monoball or Street bearing/slider assembly. The Street Rebuild Kit is available on Millway's site.
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      04-05-2021, 09:01 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MacklinUSOB View Post
Great video, Farkle. I have a few thousand trouble free miles on my Millway monoballs, but once they expire I will be replacing the slider assembly with the Street version. Thankfully it looks like a very simple conversion, much easier to deal with than the keyed lock ring you point out.
What is the adjustment range with the street version? I'm interested.

So my current front negative camber spec is -2.25. This is with the wheel hub correction for an additional -.5 and the M Performance Suspension kit which gives it an additional -.5 to -.75 of camber.

The concern is the inside edge wear on my winter tires. I'd like to get back to maybe -1.5 to -1.75 so there's less tire noise in the winter season and not have the tires ride that much on the inner edge. However, at the track, I'd like about -2.75 to -3.0 to keep the front outer edges from getting chewed up too bad.
Sounds like you just have to pony up and de-camber for winter and camber for the track. A lot of alignments but tis life.
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      04-05-2021, 04:28 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Logicoeur View Post
Sounds like you just have to pony up and de-camber for winter and camber for the track. A lot of alignments but tis life.
Are you saying that the Street version of Millway's camber plate is not able to add any (positive) camber at all?

Also, I'm running the Michelin X-Ice tires which are considered studless winter tires. Performance winter tires should be slight better with negative camber and inside edge wear.
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      04-05-2021, 05:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
What is the adjustment range with the street version? I'm interested.

So my current front negative camber spec is -2.25. This is with the wheel hub correction for an additional -.5 and the M Performance Suspension kit which gives it an additional -.5 to -.75 of camber.

The concern is the inside edge wear on my winter tires. I'd like to get back to maybe -1.5 to -1.75 so there's less tire noise in the winter season and not have the tires ride that much on the inner edge. However, at the track, I'd like about -2.75 to -3.0 to keep the front outer edges from getting chewed up too bad.
0-22mm adjustment range for the street version. If you're running the stock top mounts now, going to any of the camber plates isn't going to let you decrease negative camber at all.
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      04-05-2021, 06:42 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Logicoeur View Post
Sounds like you just have to pony up and de-camber for winter and camber for the track. A lot of alignments but tis life.
Are you saying that the Street version of Millway's camber plate is not able to add any (positive) camber at all?

Also, I'm running the Michelin X-Ice tires which are considered studless winter tires. Performance winter tires should be slight better with negative camber and inside edge wear.
Nah just saying you'll have to adjust for track season, get an alignment, then adjust for the off season and get an alignment again. You can try a camber setting somwhere in the middle but it will not be as good for the track and you will still get inner wear during off season.
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      04-14-2021, 10:07 AM   #12
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As a follow up, if you're wondering how to replace the monoballs in your Millway camber plates I made the video below on the process.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Index
-0:00 Intro
-0:16 Monoball sleeve/shim removal
-1:26 Locking ring removal
-3:59 Pressing out the monoball
-6:09 Pressing in the new monoball
-9:25 Locking ring installation.
-11:51 Monoball sleeve/shim installation
-12:34 Monoball dimensions and closing remarks
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-My YouTube Channel for some of the best DIYs and in depth information

Please don't PM me for suspension recommendations unless interested in paid private consultations.
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      04-15-2021, 07:06 AM   #13
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FaRKle! - that's a very informative video, as always.

It's interesting what we each look for in various products. Having run (briefly) Vorshlag camber plates on my car, having them removed due to NVH, and subsequently understanding their construction personally there's no way I'd choose to direct the entire front vehicle load through a monoball. It's just asking for premature wear, irrespective of the larger diameter bearing compared to the GC and Millway units. Vorshlag may have updated the design of its camber plates, and the components, but at the time my suspension shop removed the bearings and identified them as from the cheaper end of the market.

Millway kindly made a custom housing for my Millway camber plates and installed my choice of bearing. These larger bearings are used in F1, WRX, DTM and other motorsport applications and have a significantly higher rating for axial and radial loads. It was an experiment on my part, however, they have lasted <10K miles before they have started to knock/rattle when the car encounters short amplitude / high frequency irregularities in the road surface (crappy road surfaces), which just goes to show that monoballs really aren't suitable for axial loading.

Of the three units that you've reviewed I'd still opt for the Millway camber plates if I was making the choice again. The minimalist design works well and inherently has fewer points of failure. Unless/until someone develops a better solution, monoballs are a 'necessary evil'. I'm not convinced that the design of the Millway poly/steel 'sandwich' is fully resolved, but it should provide good NVH isolation and for many people this design will provide a good compromise between isolation, range of adjustment, and damper response.

Keep up the great work with the videos - they are very useful.
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