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      01-21-2019, 01:50 PM   #45
SteveinArizona
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I was listening to an older click and clack podcast today while exercising and they addressed this very question.

If it is well below zero, they recommend a 30 second to one minute warmup but no longer. Above that, they recommend no warm up but drive a couple of minutes on local roads if it is very cold before jumping on a high speed motorway.
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      01-21-2019, 04:02 PM   #46
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Cars warm up faster driving them lightly for a mile than just sitting there idling. That said I will only warm mine up for a few minutes if it's super cold. For me not for the car.
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      01-21-2019, 04:30 PM   #47
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I follow the advice of this article:

https://www.msn.com/en-us/autos/owne...ter/ar-BBQdbev

Basically, I let it idle for 30 seconds to 1 minute, then drive gently until the JB4 flashes the blinkers at me, telling me the oil's up to temperature.
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      01-21-2019, 06:22 PM   #48
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Wait for cold start to drop the RPMs and go. Iíve owned a lot of cars and never really cared about warming it up UNLESS it was really, really cold. Seems to be working for me.
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      01-21-2019, 07:19 PM   #49
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No, location of the turbos on the V8 warms up the block pretty quickly. Think I get a mile or two and its up to operating temps.
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      01-21-2019, 08:21 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JAK View Post
I always warm up my car donít care about wasting gas, otherwise Iíd be driving a different car. I canít believe that letting a car idle is bad for the engine when itís one step up from the least amount of stress you can induce on it. Sitting in traffic must be hell on my car if thatís the case
Cold starts are the most wear on the engine...the longer you have it in that cold state the more wear that happens; idling takes significantly longer to warm up and engine than driving. It's a matter of oil flow not load.
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      01-21-2019, 10:17 PM   #51
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I tend to start the car right as I get in, then get myself situated while the engine is running. Pulling out of where ever I'm parked and the first few miles I take it easy on the car. Especially in these single digit temps were seeing in the northeast these past few days. It's not only because of engine oil temp, but also being gradual on everything else.
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      01-21-2019, 10:31 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HawkeyeGeoff View Post
Cold starts are the most wear on the engine...the longer you have it in that cold state the more wear that happens; idling takes significantly longer to warm up and engine than driving. It's a matter of oil flow not load.
I've actually timed both, and found that it(2010 335i w/oil cooler) does not warm up faster while driving. It actually takes right about the same amount of time. With that said, I'll continue to let my car idle until the oil temp gauge starts to move before driving off. At the bare minimum, and if I'm in a hurry, I wait until the oil level sensor reports all is good, which takes a minute or two.
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      01-21-2019, 11:19 PM   #53
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I usually press the ignition get out and walk to the back of the car and listen to the exhaust until the left exhaust valve opens.
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      01-22-2019, 05:45 AM   #54
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I keep the door open, start the car and listen for a few secs to make sure she is rumbling properly and there are no unusual sounds while I'm turning on buttons and getting ready, and then close the door and go. As I am pulling out of garage I look in front on the floor to make sure there are no fluids. The first 2-3 mi easy riding and shifting at 3k.
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      01-22-2019, 07:33 AM   #55
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Start the car. Glock from the belt to the cup holder, seatbelt, radio, nav, check gauges, look in mirror, then drive. Take it easy out of subdivision and easy to the main road.

Now, my buddy, has a work car- Dodge Charger. On a cold day he starts it up and right into drive. If the windows are frosted he will drive at high idle using the brakes. 0-60k miles without issues. If windows are not frosted its full throttle right out of the driveway.

Lots of people live near major roads that require them to quickly accelerate and merge into traffic. Does it decrease the lifespan? Maybe instead of lasting 400k miles it will only last 350k miles.
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      01-22-2019, 11:04 AM   #56
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Nope. I give it about 15-20 seconds for the revs to settle and drive off.
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      01-22-2019, 10:53 PM   #57
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Seems like nobody here commenting has talked about diesels..

My diesel starts up at idle speed, rougly 700rpms i'd guess.

Oil temp takes literally 30 minutes to reach center (210F) here in California mornings, 50-60 degrees, and that's 30 minutes of driving at highway speeds, not idle. Idling would probably take an hour.
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      01-23-2019, 01:34 AM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 328dX View Post
Seems like nobody here commenting has talked about diesels..
Yeah, I have to warm the glow plugs on my diesel for about 30 seconds before even trying to turn it over.

I don't specifically warm it up, but it takes a while to get the slasher attached to the PTO - so I'd say it gets about 10 minutes to warm up before doing any real work.

(EDIT: I respect all y'all maturity for not taking the bait; but I'm really disappointed that nobody called me out on the fact that you'd rip your arm off if you tried to connect a slasher to a power take off while the tractor was idling. Did none of you grow up on farms??)
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      01-23-2019, 06:43 PM   #59
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheMidnightNarwhal View Post
Dude I also encounter similar shifting issue. The resistance I understand. But shifting 1st to 2nd make this weird winding noise, no grinding. If I wait in neutral for 1 seconds before completing the shift it shift normal that I am not worried.
I think the winding noise you hear is normal as the sychomesh works to prepare for the shift. A mechanical engineer could explain that much better than I. My issue is a horrible if brief grinding, first to second, if I shift quickly when the car is cold. If I shift slowly, no grinding when cold and no grinding ever once the car is properly warmed up.
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      01-23-2019, 07:11 PM   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Megabrode View Post
I think the winding noise you hear is normal as the sychomesh works to prepare for the shift. A mechanical engineer could explain that much better than I. My issue is a horrible if brief grinding, first to second, if I shift quickly when the car is cold. If I shift slowly, no grinding when cold and no grinding ever once the car is properly warmed up.
Ah okok yeah might be it.

Damn that sucks though that you hear grinding, usually grinding isn't super great but at least if you shift slowly you don't hear it that's good!
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      01-28-2019, 03:24 PM   #61
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I normally just let the revs drop (takes about a minute) and then set off
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      01-28-2019, 03:44 PM   #62
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I think what people get confused about is the manual says theres no need to "warm up" which means the oil is up to temperature or even till the needle starts moving!

That'll take 10+ minutes if the car is just sitting still.

So i think that's what the manual is suggesting NOT to do....

It's fine to sit for a couple of minutes until the revs drop or until you're ready to go

ALSO they dont want people to think "car is warmed up sitting in the drive way! so I can drive aggressively!"
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      01-28-2019, 04:29 PM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by perryo91 View Post
I think what people get confused about is the manual says theres no need to "warm up" which means the oil is up to temperature or even till the needle starts moving!

That'll take 10+ minutes if the car is just sitting still.

So i think that's what the manual is suggesting NOT to do....

It's fine to sit for a couple of minutes until the revs drop or until you're ready to go

ALSO they dont want people to think "car is warmed up sitting in the drive way! so I can drive aggressively!"
My owner's manual is pretty straight forward. Shouldn't be any confusion as there is no ambiguity in the statement.

Quote:
Do not warm up the engine with the car at a standstill, it is preferable to set off straight away, driving at moderate engine speeds.
Common sense to start up, let the engine stabilise for a few seconds before driving off. Colder the weather, engine takes a few more seconds to stabilise.

I do wonder how many BMW engines which burn excessive oil, have idle/stationary warm ups, which can contribute to the problem.
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      01-28-2019, 04:51 PM   #64
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Car lags when shifting when it is still cold. Is this normal?
Even in the auto mode it shifts slower.
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      01-28-2019, 05:27 PM   #65
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evoix View Post
Car lags when shifting when it is still cold. Is this normal?
Even in the auto mode it shifts slower.
Transmission oil also has to warm up, again benefits from a bit of work.

My own car, the first couple of changes can be less smooth, if I don't allow a few extra seconds before moving off, when the temperature is low, (~0C). I have the benefit of driving up a lane for about 1/4 mile before the highway. The gearbox is silky smooth by the time I pull onto the highway, even at low winter temperatures.
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      01-28-2019, 06:32 PM   #66
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighlandPete View Post
My owner's manual is pretty straight forward. Shouldn't be any confusion as there is no ambiguity in the statement.



Common sense to start up, let the engine stabilise for a few seconds before driving off. Colder the weather, engine takes a few more seconds to stabilise.

I do wonder how many BMW engines which burn excessive oil, have idle/stationary warm ups, which can contribute to the problem.
Warm up the engine

Let me know how unambiguous that is by telling me what temperature "warm up" is
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