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BMW 3-Series and 4-Series Forum (F30 / F32) | F30POST > Technical Forums > N47 and N57 Turbodiesel Engine / Drivetrain / Exhaust Modifications > 328d CCV Oil Catch Can
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      01-01-2019, 11:49 AM   #23
FaRKle!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
The log link doesn't go anywhere. That's a good amount though, definitely better than it coating the intake or turbos. Do you use steel wool or anything in your can?
Oops, fixed the link, thanks.

This is the catch can I have. Mishimoto made it for high flow diesel pickup engines. I haven't added any extra material to it. It's quite a bit larger than the other catch cans I've seen people use. If you're interested, I actually have another one that I couldn't get the bottom can portion to thread off. Mishimoto threads them on SUPER tight from the factory. I had to use a strap wrench and put the head of the can in my vise to get the can off of the second unit I got (that didn't work with the first unit). You can have the first one for cheap if you're interested.

Last edited by FaRKle!; 01-01-2019 at 12:02 PM..
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      01-02-2019, 07:27 AM   #24
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Thanks, I did pick up a can already though.
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      01-05-2019, 11:57 AM   #25
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Large Mishimoto Oil Catch Can

To FaRKle on your post of 17 Dec 18 at 1:43, I too have the large Mishimoto oil catch can for my 328d. How did you mount it? I had been looking at two options: on the passenger side, using the existing heat shield screws; or on the driver's side near the front fender. I am in search of 25 mm ID hose today. Any help you can send, I'd appreciate it. My catch can is identical to the pic you posted on 1 Jan 16 at 11:49. Thank you!
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      01-05-2019, 03:26 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtyree View Post
To FaRKle on your post of 17 Dec 18 at 1:43, I too have the large Mishimoto oil catch can for my 328d. How did you mount it? I had been looking at two options: on the passenger side, using the existing heat shield screws; or on the driver's side near the front fender. I am in search of 25 mm ID hose today. Any help you can send, I'd appreciate it. My catch can is identical to the pic you posted on 1 Jan 16 at 11:49. Thank you!
Here's a pic of my mount. I made a mount that clamps to the pinch weld right behind the headlight. It's quite secure, and the bottom of the catch can is touching/supported by the wheel well liner below.



I'd skip trying to find 25mm ID hose. That's difficult and expensive. I used some 1" to 5/8" (25mm to 16mm) straight silicone reducers to pair with the AN10 hose. I also tried looking for new fittings with smaller ID barbs, but Mishimoto used a thread on these that's not terribly popular for barbs...
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      01-05-2019, 04:17 PM   #27
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Thank you. I will work it and see what I can do. Time to adjust and adapt.
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      07-16-2019, 12:32 PM   #28
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Hose elbows for OCC

Quote:
Originally Posted by rbreding View Post
OK. Process completed today. Went as I assumed and all the parts were a perfect fit for what was assumed. Catch can was mounted on the drivers side. This will facilitate enough time for the oil/air mixture to condense and turn back into a liquid. During disassembly I was surprised and mildly concerned/justified in the oil that I saw in the intake ribs upstream of the CCV intake. When I pull the front bumper next month for replacement I will likely pull the IC to see how much oil is inside. I have an approximately 500 mile trip planned for this weekend so this will be a good test of the catch can to see what the results are.

With that said here we go:

1. Intake air box was pulled to facilitate easy access. Disconnected the MAF electrical connector, unscrew the worm drive clamp, and also disconnect the secondary air inlet on the bottom of the filter housing before completely removing the air filter box.
2. Disconnect the CCV wiring harness (upper and lower connection of CCV hose and the main wiring harness connection). When disconnecting the upper you will also need to push the little retaining clip on the CCV hose to also pull this off. Lower CCV electrical connection is just that.
3. Unscrew the torx screw that holds the battery/starter cable so you have room to work. Unscrew the 10mm bolt that holds the lower air intake secure.
4. Pull the retaining clip slightly out with a flathead that holds the air intake to the turbo inlet.
5. Remove the lower air intake from the car. (you are removing the intake to easier facilitate the removal of the ring in step 7 and also to inspect to see how much oil is in the lower intake)

NOTE: There will be oil in the lower air intake and the amount will depend on mileage. Be prepared for some to drip out. Clean up the intake if necessary to prevent a larger mess.

6. Separate the upper CCV electrical from the plastic retainer. It just needs to be slightly pried and it will come out.
7. Cut the lower CCV hose retaining ring that holds the larger end to the air intake with a dremel. Be careful not to cut completely through the rubber reducer in case you want to revert for any reason. If needed in the future this could be resecured with a worm drive clamp.
8. Reinstall the lower intake, secure the clip that holds the intake to the turbo, reinstall the 10mm bolt that secures the lower intake to the engine block.
9. Cut and install the new 90deg CCV replacement hose for the lower intake. Insert brass straight nipple and secure flexible hose with two worm clamps. Route this hose to your oil catch can OUTLET side. Cut the hose to fit so as not to cause the oil catch can to be in a bind. Secure worm clamp.
10. Temporarily set the air intake box back in its place to better aid in placement of the upper CCV hose.
12. Cut and install the new 90deg CCV replacement hose for the upper CCV connection. Arrange the worm clamp to where the bolt is on the under side of the CCV electrical connector. Orientate the 90deg hose to the right with a slight down angle and secure the worm clamp.
13. Insert the brass nipple and connect remaining flexible hose and secure with worm clamps. Route hose so as not to introduce a drastic uphill run. You want the oil to drain to the can as it condenses.
14. Cut the hose to fit the can so as not to cause the can to be in a bind. Secure the worm clamp to the can.
15. Move air intake box back out of the way.
16. Reinstall CCV electrical connections starting with the lower connection, then the main harness connection, then the upper CCV block.
17. Reinstall air intake box by first securing the secondary lower intake then lowering the left side watching the grooves for the "ram air" supply to ensure its properly connected.
18. Reconnect lower air intake to the air intake box, tighten worm clamp, reconnect MAF sensor cable.


Hopefully these pictures go in order. I will update this post after the long test drive this weekend.
To rbreding, where did you obtain the elbows for both ends of the OCC hoses?
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      07-21-2019, 11:41 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jtyree View Post
To rbreding, where did you obtain the elbows for both ends of the OCC hoses?
The links are "linked" from the original post.
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