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      06-12-2018, 07:49 AM   #1
4bangaturbo
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100k miles Maintenance 2013 328i

my car is currently sitting at 85k miles no issues so far! been doing all the maintenance myself after 50k (oil change/filter every 5k, cabin air filter when its starts to get smelly, brake pads/rotors when needed).

now that im coming up onto 100k ive started to compile parts to do preventative maintenance. please let me know if im missing anything or if anything im doing is unnecessary.

-brake fluid flush
-oil change/filter
-cabin air filter
-engine air filter
-coils and plugs
-diff flush
-transmission flush (do i have to replace the whole pan?)
-coolant expansion tank (heard these fail and leak at the bottom in higher mileage cars)
-coolant flush

UPDATE @ 95k miles
-coolant expansion tank seems to be holding up, seems like a more common issues on the e9x
-replace plugs with ngks because i just went bm3 stage 2, the coils seem good still.
-ordered a updated timing chain kit since my timing chain & guide are the older ones
-replaced charge pipes with er, i consider this a maintenance item
-replaced engine filter with k&n drop in

Last edited by 4bangaturbo; 11-14-2018 at 09:20 PM..
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      06-12-2018, 09:32 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4bangaturbo View Post
my car is currently sitting at 85k miles no issues so far! been doing all the maintenance myself after 50k (oil change/filter every 5k, cabin air filter when its starts to get smelly, brake pads/rotors when needed).

now that im coming up onto 100k ive started to compile parts to do preventative maintenance. please let me know if im missing anything or if anything im doing is unnecessary.

-oil change/filter
-cabin air filter
-engine air filter
-coils and plugs
-diff flush
-transmission flush (do i have to replace the whole pan?)
-coolant expansion tank (heard these fail and leak at the bottom in higher mileage cars)
-coolant flush
I'm almost to 89k, so I'm joining you up here. I'm definitely on the way to do a tranny drain/fill here soon. The entire pan has to be replaced as the filter is built in. I believe FCP Euro has a kit for it. For the coolant tank, I think this was only an issue on the older models but unsure of the changeover date.
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      06-12-2018, 09:57 AM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
I'm almost to 89k, so I'm joining you up here. I'm definitely on the way to do a tranny drain/fill here soon. The entire pan has to be replaced as the filter is built in. I believe FCP Euro has a kit for it. For the coolant tank, I think this was only an issue on the older models but unsure of the changeover date.
If you're doing the transmission pan and ATF, I'd recommend buying something that allows you to measure exactly how much ATF comes out of the transmission. It'll make your job/judgement of how much to put back in... a LOT easier. Correct amount/level of transmission fluid is extremely important.
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      06-12-2018, 05:54 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BunkerJ View Post
I'm almost to 89k, so I'm joining you up here. I'm definitely on the way to do a tranny drain/fill here soon. The entire pan has to be replaced as the filter is built in. I believe FCP Euro has a kit for it. For the coolant tank, I think this was only an issue on the older models but unsure of the changeover date.
hmm okay probally going to buy the kit off FCP then or ECS. thanks! considering i have a 2013 i think im just going to replace it haha. alot of little things changed from 2013 - 2014 as ive been figuring out like the pwg vs ewg, my nav/radio is different too since i didnt have the green cable for my avin headunit.
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      06-12-2018, 05:55 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
If you're doing the transmission pan and ATF, I'd recommend buying something that allows you to measure exactly how much ATF comes out of the transmission. It'll make your job/judgement of how much to put back in... a LOT easier. Correct amount/level of transmission fluid is extremely important.
the kit they provide on ECS/FCP already comes with the right amount of ATF for you so i think i could skip this step. but thanks for the tip!
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      06-13-2018, 01:59 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4bangaturbo View Post
the kit they provide on ECS/FCP already comes with the right amount of ATF for you so i think i could skip this step. but thanks for the tip!
ZF has a very specific procedure for performing service on this transmission. I recently contacted them and they emailed me a PDF outlining exactly how to perform the procedure. If you want, PM me your email and I will send you a copy.

It’s also generally advised after you perform the procedure, to drain and fill again after a couple hundred miles, as a lot of the old fluid will have remained in the TC. This way you can ensure that most of the old fluid is gone from the system.

Last edited by IraHayes; 06-13-2018 at 02:34 AM..
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      06-13-2018, 12:45 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IraHayes View Post
ZF has a very specific procedure for performing service on this transmission. I recently contacted them and they emailed me a PDF outlining exactly how to perform the procedure. If you want, PM me your email and I will send you a copy.

Itís also generally advised after you perform the procedure, to drain and fill again after a couple hundred miles, as a lot of the old fluid will have remained in the TC. This way you can ensure that most of the old fluid is gone from the system.
I am going to PM you my email if you do not mind sending me a copy!

Thanks!
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      06-13-2018, 01:08 PM   #8
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Water pump thermostat still original?
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      06-13-2018, 01:15 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n00bkiller944 View Post
I am going to PM you my email if you do not mind sending me a copy!

Thanks!
Sent!

One thing I would note. The instructions don't emphasize this, but they do mention having the car up on a lift. This to me means that the wheels need to be up off the ground so that they can be allowed to spin freely when engaging the various gears. Just be sure to apply your brakes before cycling through to different gears.
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      06-14-2018, 03:40 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by Tribalpinoy911 View Post
Water pump thermostat still original?
yeah still original
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      06-14-2018, 04:47 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4bangaturbo View Post
the kit they provide on ECS/FCP already comes with the right amount of ATF for you so i think i could skip this step. but thanks for the tip!
It has more than the amount necessary. However, not all of the ATF will come out on a drain in fill... hence IraHayes 's post below about a specific procedure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IraHayes View Post
ZF has a very specific procedure for performing service on this transmission. I recently contacted them and they emailed me a PDF outlining exactly how to perform the procedure. If you want, PM me your email and I will send you a copy.

Itís also generally advised after you perform the procedure, to drain and fill again after a couple hundred miles, as a lot of the old fluid will have remained in the TC. This way you can ensure that most of the old fluid is gone from the system.
It's a dilution problem. You'll probably never get all of it out. In fact, you would be lucky to get 60% of the original fluid out on each drain and fill. I would just decrease the intervals of each ATF drain and fill instead of doing another one a couple hundred miles after the previous. Perhaps every 40-50k.
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      06-14-2018, 10:46 AM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
It has more than the amount necessary. However, not all of the ATF will come out on a drain in fill... hence IraHayes 's post below about a specific procedure.



It's a dilution problem. You'll probably never get all of it out.
Agreed.
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      06-17-2018, 06:56 AM   #13
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Originally Posted by Humid Hummus View Post
Why? you're supposed to keep filling the transmission until fluid dribbled out the filler hole. that's how you know the transmission level is full.

the amount of fluid that will come out of the transmission will be varied depending on how warm the transmission is when you drain the fluid.
Yeah, that's what the manual/ISTA says, but based on my last 3 ATF changes on a 335i and X3 35i, my experience is that you'll end up draining more fluid out than putting back in if you use that method.
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      06-17-2018, 09:23 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Polo08816 View Post
Yeah, that's what the manual/ISTA says, but based on my last 3 ATF changes on a 335i and X3 35i, my experience is that you'll end up draining more fluid out than putting back in if you use that method.
Interesting. How does more come out than go in? Fluid drains from higher in the transmission and you can only put up to the plug back in? How did you go about putting the additional back in?
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      06-17-2018, 09:44 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n00bkiller944 View Post
Interesting. How does more come out than go in? Fluid drains from higher in the transmission and you can only put up to the plug back in? How did you go about putting the additional back in?
Good question. It must be due to the reason you listed above... how so, not sure. Two methods to put slightly more fluid than what will fit at the fill plug level:

1. Elevate one side of the car (either fill plug side or rear axle of vehicle).
2. If you're using a pressure bleeder to fill the transmission like a Motive, you can put a paper towel around the fill plug hole to prevent most of it from dripping out. But you'll have to be ready to put the plug in quickly to prevent too much ATF from coming back out once you're done filling.
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      06-17-2018, 11:38 PM   #16
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      06-20-2018, 05:00 PM   #17
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so the musty moldy gym smell coming from my HVAC is still there after i've changed my cabin filter. im going to be foam cleaning the vents with the Klima-Cleaner Air Conditioner Cleaner found on amazon. will report back if it works.
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      06-30-2018, 04:30 PM   #18
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Originally Posted by 4bangaturbo View Post
so the musty moldy gym smell coming from my HVAC is still there after i've changed my cabin filter. im going to be foam cleaning the vents with the Klima-Cleaner Air Conditioner Cleaner found on amazon. will report back if it works.
That’s because the smell is coming from mildew build-up on the evaporator. After you do that cleaning, in the future, after you’ve run your A/C, make sure not to leave the circulation mode on “A” or “M” when turning off your car. You want to set it so that the system is open to outside air (both LED’s off). By doing so, you’re allowing the evaporator to dry and you won’t get that musty, mildew smell.
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      06-30-2018, 06:43 PM   #19
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4bangaturbo View Post
so the musty moldy gym smell coming from my HVAC is still there after i've changed my cabin filter. im going to be foam cleaning the vents with the Klima-Cleaner Air Conditioner Cleaner found on amazon. will report back if it works.
That's because the smell is coming from mildew build-up on the evaporator. After you do that cleaning, in the future, after you've run your A/C, make sure not to leave the circulation mode on "A" or "M" when turning off your car. You want to set it so that the system is open to outside air (both LED's off). By doing so, you're allowing the evaporator to dry and you won't get that musty, mildew smell.
How do you get both LED's off? I thought it was either A or M meaning one of them always had to be on?

Or are you saying to shut the entire system down but turning off HVAC off co completely before turning engine off?
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      07-01-2018, 01:13 AM   #20
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How do you get both LED's off? I thought it was either A or M meaning one of them always had to be on?

Or are you saying to shut the entire system down but turning off HVAC off co completely before turning engine off?
No, you do this before turning off the HVAC system. I probably should have said to press the button until neither LED is on. For example, when you press the button for max A/C, I believe the LED above “M” is illuminated (HVAC system is in recirc mode, sealing the car from outside air). If you press “A/M” button, “A” should be illuminated (the car will basically alternate between recirc mode and allowing in outside air). Press it once more, and neither LED should be illuminated. In this mode, the flap or door that seals the interior of the car from outside air will be completely open. Basically works like the recirc button or slide toggle in some other cars, or older BMW’s for that matter.

The odor develops from the condensation on the evaporator sitting there and not being able to dry off. When I was a tech for Ford many years ago, there was a serious issue with mildew odor coming out of the HVAC system on some models, and that was the cause. After fixing the problem by cleaning the evaporator with a special foam cleaner, we were told to advise the customer to make sure not to leave their HVAC system in recirc mode after having used the A/C. That was back in the late 90’s. I have been following this advice myself ever since then and have never had a problem.
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      07-07-2018, 07:19 PM   #21
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changed the cabin air filter and used the foam cleaner in my air vents. smell is gone!
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      07-07-2018, 09:58 PM   #22
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Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
How do you get both LED's off? I thought it was either A or M meaning one of them always had to be on?

Or are you saying to shut the entire system down but turning off HVAC off co completely before turning engine off?
No, you do this before turning off the HVAC system. I probably should have said to press the button until neither LED is on. For example, when you press the button for max A/C, I believe the LED above "M" is illuminated (HVAC system is in recirc mode, sealing the car from outside air). If you press "A/M" button, "A" should be illuminated (the car will basically alternate between recirc mode and allowing in outside air). Press it once more, and neither LED should be illuminated. In this mode, the flap or door that seals the interior of the car from outside air will be completely open. Basically works like the recirc button or slide toggle in some other cars, or older BMW's for that matter.

The odor develops from the condensation on the evaporator sitting there and not being able to dry off. When I was a tech for Ford many years ago, there was a serious issue with mildew odor coming out of the HVAC system on some models, and that was the cause. After fixing the problem by cleaning the evaporator with a special foam cleaner, we were told to advise the customer to make sure not to leave their HVAC system in recirc mode after having used the A/C. That was back in the late 90's. I have been following this advice myself ever since then and have never had a problem.
This 100% worked for me. My cabin air filter is only about 10k miles old and I was hesitant to believe this was the cause for my issue. For the past few drive cycles, Ive been making sure to keep both the A and M LED's off...

Sure enough, a couple days later and the smell is gone. I didn't remove or spray anything.
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