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      12-05-2018, 05:40 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbreding View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by Watsey View Post
If you are considering draining and replacing the ZF transmission fluid be aware that there is a specific process. Short version :

Drain fluid.
Remove pan if there is a transmission filter - apparently not all AT units have a filter.
Replace filter if required; refit pan.
Refill transmission with fresh fluid.
Drive the vehicle on the road according to a specific cycle, using all of the gears for predetermined periods.
Drain the transmission fluid again.
Refill with fresh transmission fluid.
Repeat the road test process/cycle.
Ensure and test for gearbox adaptations through the process.

According to BMW and ZF it's not as simple as 'drain fluid and replace'.

I elected to have the AT fluid changed at ~60K miles. The fluid was dark, but not burnt. The car is driven enthusiastically and does 2-3 track evenings each year.
Please Noone do this short version of what's listed above.
Not only is it not nessecary to do a drain fill drain fill cycle but this leaves out the very important fill method via trans temp monitor and gear cycling without the wheels moving.
This is the methodology as stated by BMW UK and is the process that it follows.
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      12-05-2018, 06:04 PM   #24
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I will say I would be cautious with that procedure. When I changed mine I put a new pan and filter on, then topped it off which only took about 2 quarts before it dribbled out. Following the instructions on ISTA with regards to the trans temp and shifting the gearbox, the trans sucked in about another 3 quarts. Not sure I'd want to drive the vehicle without that fluid in there.
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      12-05-2018, 06:38 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
I will say I would be cautious with that procedure. When I changed mine I put a new pan and filter on, then topped it off which only took about 2 quarts before it dribbled out. Following the instructions on ISTA with regards to the trans temp and shifting the gearbox, the trans sucked in about another 3 quarts. Not sure I'd want to drive the vehicle without that fluid in there.
If you're referring to my post I did state that Is was the short version.

The transmission is run through all gears when the vehicle is off the ground so as to ensure that it can be fully filled. The car is then driven on the road.

The transmission fluid is then drained and refilled a second time. Same procedure : run the AT through the gears when the car is off the ground, drive the car in the road following a specific programme, and run AT adaptations.

The point I was making is that the fluid is drained and refilled twice so as to fully flush the torque converter. Some people baulk at the cost of a fluid change by BMW until they realise that the process is rather more involved than a 'simple drain amd fill'.
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      12-05-2018, 07:31 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
I will say I would be cautious with that procedure. When I changed mine I put a new pan and filter on, then topped it off which only took about 2 quarts before it dribbled out. Following the instructions on ISTA with regards to the trans temp and shifting the gearbox, the trans sucked in about another 3 quarts. Not sure I'd want to drive the vehicle without that fluid in there.
This is more or less exactly what my dealer told me they would do for $700.

No mention of double drain and fill with a road test in between.
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      12-05-2018, 07:48 PM   #27
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Bmw NA does not do a double fill on a trans change. If the mecatronic is dropped to change the seals 90+% of the fluid will drop out.
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      12-05-2018, 10:14 PM   #28
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I used about 5.5 quarts from changing the pan and refilling following the procedure. I plan to repeat every 60-80k or so I dont see the need to get that last quart or two out. It won't hurt anything if you feel the need, but it seems unnecessary IMHO, and certainly will cost a bit more. It's already $300 on a diy scale for a simple drain and fill. The mech unit doesnt have to come out just for a fluid change though so theres def a dirty quart or two left behind, but 80% fresh fluid works for me. Dont forget, its lifetime fluid anyways, roll it to 300k lol
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      12-19-2018, 07:48 AM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rbreding View Post
ZF fluid, pan, and sleeves are at most $400 for parts. Labor is about 2 hours. $3k? LOL
What "Sleeves"? I saw the ZF transmission service kits with bolts, drain plug, fluid and pan. but no mention of a "sleeve".
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      12-19-2018, 08:51 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hypermile View Post
What "Sleeves"? I saw the ZF transmission service kits with bolts, drain plug, fluid and pan. but no mention of a "sleeve".
The older 6 speed BMW's have a sleeve on top of the mechatronics unit as well as another sleeve that the wires go through from inside to outside the transmission. They commonly crack on those models, so are routine maintenance. I don't believe the 8hp45 has those components, I have not seen them available, although I also did not drop the mechatronic unit to confirm.
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      12-19-2018, 12:31 PM   #31
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Just completed this DIY about a month ago. Very happy I did so!
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      12-19-2018, 12:57 PM   #32
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Originally Posted by n00bkiller944 View Post
Just completed this DIY about a month ago. Very happy I did so!
Can you share with us specifically which document/process you followed and scan tool that you used?

Approximate out of pocket cost?

Approximate time frame to complete?

Mileage on vehicle when completed?

Any side notes, hurdles or warnings to mention?

Appreciate the info. A lot of us out here debating whether or not to this and whether or not to DIY.
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      12-19-2018, 03:13 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Can you share with us specifically which document/process you followed and scan tool that you used?

Foxwell 510

Approximate out of pocket cost?

Just the cost of fcp fluid and filter kit. 230 bucks maybe? and I have an extra 2 quarts.

Approximate time frame to complete?

2 hours

Mileage on vehicle when completed?

50k

Any side notes, hurdles or warnings to mention?

See below

Appreciate the info. A lot of us out here debating whether or not to this and whether or not to DIY.
Posted this in another thread, just copying and pasting here.

It wasn't difficult but a little time consuming. I utilized a foxwell scanner for transmission temperature. It took FOREVER for it to come down to temp low enough for me to be comfortable to begin the process. While I waited I did an oil change, rear diff fluid, fuel filter, air filter and a brake fluid flush. After draining the pan I got 4.25 quarts out of the transmission. I was able to put about 2.8 back in with the car off. Started it and followed ZF's instructions (rev to 2k for 30 seconds in park to fill torque converter) then hold each gear for 10 seconds. At this point the transmission was slightly above ZF's recommendation for temperature but I continued with the fill process. With the engine running and car in park I was able to add about 1.7 more quarts into the transmission. (Give or take some as it ran out of the transmission a few times during the fill process.) Ultimately, I added just a little more than I took out which made me feel good about the whole process.



I removed this bracket to give me more space to remove the fill plug and to give room to run the hose for the fluid transfer pump.





I took a sample of the old fluid that I will send out to Blackstone in the next few days. I know it says lifetime fluid but I am curious to see what Blackstone says. The filter looks pretty full and was doing its job for sure. My 2014 328d had 49,960 miles on it and you can see in the photos the filter and what the magnets caught! The new ZF fluid is a very clear green. I put some of the old fluid on a paper towel so you guys could see.









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      12-20-2018, 05:44 AM   #34
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^ Thanks man! definitely giving me more confidence to DIY. Is it safe to go with ZF pan and fluids. The price difference between ZF and BMW parts are huge. I don't want this to be one of those "you get what you pay for" moments.
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      12-20-2018, 08:45 AM   #35
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ZF is the manufacturer so I dont think you can go wrong. Just picked up the supplies to do mine a second time at around 120k, first was at ~60k when the first xfer case went.

Liqui-moly fluid is supposed to be acceptable too and is a little cheaper, but I stuck with the ZF8 fluid / ZF pan and filter. The kit is about $250 for ZF and $150 for Liqui moly
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      12-20-2018, 08:57 AM   #36
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Great posting n00bkiller944 sorry been out of the loop. I ended up doing it myself, as he mentioned it wasn't difficult just takes a few hours. I didn't have access to a lift so i bough some 4x4 wood and 2x10 and made some blocks so i can lift my car onto. Put jack stands for extra bracing at the jack points and kept my jack there for extra extra support lol.

Removed the under shields.
Removed bracket (he showed)
drained and removed pan
cleaned up and installed new pan
filled and followed ISTA

I also changed front and rear differential fluids while i had it lifted. Oh and oil, cabin filters, air filter.

I drove a few days and lifted it back up to make sure it was topped again. which i learned wasn't needed.

In total.
wood and screws- $18
differential and new plus- 38
transmission fluid kit- 165
Total 221

oil- 69
cabin filter- 27
air filter- 46
coolant- 8

i ordered my stuff through FCP Euro. Great company fast and easy. Also takes returns so I get credit back for next round.
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      12-20-2018, 10:07 AM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdr78569 View Post
Great posting n00bkiller944 sorry been out of the loop. I ended up doing it myself, as he mentioned it wasn't difficult just takes a few hours. I didn't have access to a lift so i bough some 4x4 wood and 2x10 and made some blocks so i can lift my car onto. Put jack stands for extra bracing at the jack points and kept my jack there for extra extra support lol.

Removed the under shields.
Removed bracket (he showed)
drained and removed pan
cleaned up and installed new pan
filled and followed ISTA

I also changed front and rear differential fluids while i had it lifted. Oh and oil, cabin filters, air filter.

I drove a few days and lifted it back up to make sure it was topped again. which i learned wasn't needed.

In total.
wood and screws- $18
differential and new plus- 38
transmission fluid kit- 165
Total 221

oil- 69
cabin filter- 27
air filter- 46
coolant- 8

i ordered my stuff through FCP Euro. Great company fast and easy. Also takes returns so I get credit back for next round.
Any picks of the blocks you made?

Id like to make a pair to compliment my jack stands.
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      12-20-2018, 10:09 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kdog_x View Post
ZF is the manufacturer so I dont think you can go wrong. Just picked up the supplies to do mine a second time at around 120k, first was at ~60k when the first xfer case went.

Liqui-moly fluid is supposed to be acceptable too and is a little cheaper, but I stuck with the ZF8 fluid / ZF pan and filter. The kit is about $250 for ZF and $150 for Liqui moly
I found a ZF pan on sale for $129. The cheapest ZF Lifeguard 8 I can find is $22/L. Any cheaper sources for ZF parts?
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      12-20-2018, 10:21 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdr78569 View Post
Great posting n00bkiller944 sorry been out of the loop. I ended up doing it myself, as he mentioned it wasn't difficult just takes a few hours. I didn't have access to a lift so i bough some 4x4 wood and 2x10 and made some blocks so i can lift my car onto. Put jack stands for extra bracing at the jack points and kept my jack there for extra extra support lol.

Removed the under shields.
Removed bracket (he showed)
drained and removed pan
cleaned up and installed new pan
filled and followed ISTA

I also changed front and rear differential fluids while i had it lifted. Oh and oil, cabin filters, air filter.

I drove a few days and lifted it back up to make sure it was topped again. which i learned wasn't needed.

In total.
wood and screws- $18
differential and new plus- 38
transmission fluid kit- 165
Total 221

oil- 69
cabin filter- 27
air filter- 46
coolant- 8

i ordered my stuff through FCP Euro. Great company fast and easy. Also takes returns so I get credit back for next round.
How many litres of fluid would you recommend for someone piecing together their own kit?

How many litres did you legit need?

Ive heard a lot of variance on this.
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      12-20-2018, 12:10 PM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
How many litres of fluid would you recommend for someone piecing together their own kit?

How many litres did you legit need?

Ive heard a lot of variance on this.
I needed 5. I would recommend getting 6 to be safe. My kit came with 7. However, I would just buy the kit from FCP. Return credit when you do it again in 50 k
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      12-20-2018, 12:13 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdr78569 View Post
Great posting n00bkiller944 sorry been out of the loop. I ended up doing it myself, as he mentioned it wasn't difficult just takes a few hours. I didn't have access to a lift so i bough some 4x4 wood and 2x10 and made some blocks so i can lift my car onto. Put jack stands for extra bracing at the jack points and kept my jack there for extra extra support lol.

Removed the under shields.
Removed bracket (he showed)
drained and removed pan
cleaned up and installed new pan
filled and followed ISTA

I also changed front and rear differential fluids while i had it lifted. Oh and oil, cabin filters, air filter.

I drove a few days and lifted it back up to make sure it was topped again. which i learned wasn't needed.

In total.
wood and screws- $18
differential and new plus- 38
transmission fluid kit- 165
Total 221

oil- 69
cabin filter- 27
air filter- 46
coolant- 8

i ordered my stuff through FCP Euro. Great company fast and easy. Also takes returns so I get credit back for next round.
+1 to FCPeuro as well. Love them

Exact same for me. Except I am RWD so just did the rear diff and also did a fuel filter while I was under there.

Did you drain the coolant and do a refill? I bought coolant to do so but found out unfortunately these cars don't have a petcock or any place to drain coolant from except the lower hose which is all but low in the engine bay. I struggled to get the plastic hose to disconnect so I gave up and figured I would do it some other time. Would love some insight if you did this.
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      12-28-2018, 08:19 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sspade View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by jdr78569 View Post
Great posting n00bkiller944 sorry been out of the loop. I ended up doing it myself, as he mentioned it wasn't difficult just takes a few hours. I didn't have access to a lift so i bough some 4x4 wood and 2x10 and made some blocks so i can lift my car onto. Put jack stands for extra bracing at the jack points and kept my jack there for extra extra support lol.

Removed the under shields.
Removed bracket (he showed)
drained and removed pan
cleaned up and installed new pan
filled and followed ISTA

I also changed front and rear differential fluids while i had it lifted. Oh and oil, cabin filters, air filter.

I drove a few days and lifted it back up to make sure it was topped again. which i learned wasn't needed.

In total.
wood and screws- $18
differential and new plus- 38
transmission fluid kit- 165
Total 221

oil- 69
cabin filter- 27
air filter- 46
coolant- 8

i ordered my stuff through FCP Euro. Great company fast and easy. Also takes returns so I get credit back for next round.
Any picks of the blocks you made?

Id like to make a pair to compliment my jack stands.
Sorry for the delays holidays. Crept up but I can't find the pic of it lifted up, but here's the blocks

2x10
2x4
4x4
Put small strip to brace tire roll

Made the 2x10 18 inches long so my jack can fit under it to lift.

Jacked 1 side put brace under. Repeated for all 4 sides. My jack lifted one side high enough for me to put front and rear braces under.

Put jack under stands and jacked it will I can put next piece( if needed) used jack stands and jack at extra security.


This is where i got the idea. I just made my own, i couldn't justify 285 (plus ship) for a pair. Just to do maintenance once in a blue moon. I had the 4x4 already and 2x2 so i just went and bough a 2x10 8ft. cut it up 18 inches and got 4 pieces. I honestly didn't need the 2nd set of 4x4 blocks. If your going higher id just use another 2x2 under it.

Home depot with out 2nd 4x4 blocks
2x10 8ft: 6 bucks
4x4 6ft: 7 bucks
2x2 8ft: 3 bucks
Total: 16 bucks
I use the remaining 2x10 to cut strips for the wheel strips

If you want another 4x4 under thats another 6 ft (cut 18 inches) and 2x2 is 8ft.

Get the measurements based on your jack. My jack is 10 inches wide so i gave myself some wiggle room (1inch). Put the 4x4 blocks on the outside of it and got 18 inches total. You jack could be narrower or wider. 4x4 is really around 3.5 inches so

[3.5]-11 inches- [3.5] =18 inches []=4x4 wood

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Last edited by jdr78569; 12-28-2018 at 08:43 AM..
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      12-28-2018, 08:29 AM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by n00bkiller944 View Post
+1 to FCPeuro as well. Love them

Exact same for me. Except I am RWD so just did the rear diff and also did a fuel filter while I was under there.

Did you drain the coolant and do a refill? I bought coolant to do so but found out unfortunately these cars don't have a petcock or any place to drain coolant from except the lower hose which is all but low in the engine bay. I struggled to get the plastic hose to disconnect so I gave up and figured I would do it some other time. Would love some insight if you did this.
Funny story...(not funny)

I changed my coolant on a mere mess up. While changing my NOX sensor on the exhaust i managed to snap a plastic nipple piece that i couldn't figure where it went too. Turns out it was to my DEF fluid. was leaking all over, so i ordered it at BMW and crawled under to swap it. WELL... turns out that same piece had a coolant line attached to it. So when i disconnected it spewed all the HOT coolant all over my back.

Swapped out the piece and had to fill the coolant lol.

It was on my todo list and i was going to do it by pulling the bottom hose (believe its the only way. I can send pics of my book if you'd like)
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      12-28-2018, 08:43 AM   #44
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Interesting, so you put the 2x10 spread across two 4x4's under each tire and it holds 1/4 of the weight of the car with no issues?

I usually lift the front right point with jack 1, and then slip jack 2 under the front center jacking point (my car is low) and raise it. Then slip jack stands under both front points. Set it down on stands (leave the front jack as well). Then go to the rear and lift from the differential with a block of wood, then install both rear stands. The front is a breeze, I really hate lifting the rear that way though. I always leave front / rear jacks in place

Ha! My coolant change came when I was messing with the cooler for the DEF line as well. Managed to slice it and it drained the whole tank onto the floor. I wasn't going to roll around in it to try and stop the leak!
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